Band saws for wood

The prudent owner always has a set of various tools, with which he can make repairs of any complexity, as well as independently build the necessary object. This includes band saws as well. They are multi-cutting cutting tools designed for band saws and hand band saws. Outwardly, such a saw is a flexible, closed in a ring band, made of steel. It is equipped with cutting teeth on one side.

The cutting head is fitted with special pulleys, positioned above and below the saw blade. The rotation is achieved through the operation of an electric motor, which drives the entire mechanism. Any sawmill has such machines in its arsenal, with the help of which you can saw round timber into finished sawn material of the required thickness. For home use, it is reasonable to buy manual versions of the tools for sawing wood, which are compact in size. Battery operated models are available, allowing you to work in hard-to-reach places where there is no way to connect to the mains.

Assembling the frame

When assembling the frame of the band saw, it is better to give preference to hard and strong wood species. Otherwise, the final construction will not have the required stiffness and will start to create vibrations. Separate elements, including the work table, are made of strong plywood, and stiffening ribs are additionally reinforced with laths. The most affordable option is to dismantle old furniture.

The first thing to do at home is to make drawings, on the basis of which the assembly of the frame will be made. They are created taking into account the height of the working room and the physiological characteristics of the person who will work at the saw.

band, saws, wood, their

Tips for using the bandsaw

In order to assemble even the simplest band saw unit for mini sawmill, such as the one described in the article, it is necessary to lay out a certain amount of money for a variety of parts. Even if you have an electric motor with suitable parameters from old equipment, you still need to buy steel profiles, lumber, pulleys, belts and webbing, and that will also cost a lot of money. But if you follow all the rules of operation, you can very quickly recoup all the costs, as well as earn a certain capital.

Checking blade tension with a strain gauge

  • First of all, you should tension the saw band correctly. it depends on its thickness and width, as well as on the steel grade. But in order to make the tensioning as optimal as possible, you need to use a special device called a “strain gauge” (see. photo above). Most likely you will not have it, but you can borrow or hire a device to do at least one test, and then you can do it “by eye”.
  • Do not rely on the fact that the blade can saw continuously, for example, from morning until lunch or even until evening. it is not so. It’s best to stop the machine after two to three hours of use and then, after removing the saw, hang it free (without tension) for 10 to 12 hours. That said, it doesn’t hurt to have multiple blades, especially if you have a lot of work to do.
  • If you work with dry workpieces, it does not imply any problems, but when sawing (dissolving) fresh wood, resins are released, which clog the teeth, the band quickly overheats and can even burst. To somehow mitigate such a negative factor, use an improvised lubricant: at plus temperature it is ordinary water with detergent, and at frost diesel fuel with oil.
  • When you have finished your work it is absolutely necessary to loosen the tension of the blade to protect it from the consequences of heat deformation. Steel expands when heated, therefore, when cooled (read shrinkage) in places of contact with pulleys will remain prints, which significantly reduces the durability of the saw.
  • Maintain normal sharpness, i.e. teeth must always be sharp and have the same pitch.
  • Do not forget. That any sawing machine is potentially dangerous to health, as careless movement or loss of vigilance with fatigue can lead to serious injury and there are many examples of this. It is therefore much safer if all moving parts (pulleys, blade) are covered.
  • The place where the machine is to be installed is decisive for safety. Nothing should get in the way of working with long workpieces, as this can cause the cutting belt to break and even cause serious injury.
  • After an injury, the phrase “I didn’t notice” is often the result of a lack of lighting in the workplace. Sometimes machines are installed outdoors under a shed without proper lighting power (make do with one bulb at 60-80 watts), therefore, in this case you can work only during daylight hours. But it is better to install some reflector, directing it to the work table (if you can adjust it, that’s even better).
  • Make sure the electric motor is grounded and connected through a RCD (ground fault interrupter) or at least a differential circuit breaker. this can protect against injury. The fact is that in case of electric shock a person loses control of the body and the probability of getting the extremities in the zone of the saw’s action increases.
  • The platform for the workplace should be dry and hard (concrete screed, asphalt), and if the unit is in the street, then this platform should be raised at least 3 cm above the ground level, so that it is not flooded by streams in heavy rain;
  • Place a dielectric rubber mat underneath the feet when working.

Homemade band saw. the master explains the device of the machine

The band saw with your own hands

On how to make a band saw with their own hands on the Internet you can find a lot of materials, photos and videos. For example, Matthias Wandel’s Canadian website offers drawings of a machine made almost entirely of wood. But let’s choose something less exotic, which can be done both in a home workshop and in a small wood or metal work shop.

Band saw made of wood

Making the frame

The initial step. making the frame. For wood saws it can be made of wood or metal, for metal only steel. It can be welded from a channel or angle bar. For a small joinery or a workshop this is no problem. Divided according to the supposed size of the material to be cut. A properly sawing homemade machine can handle thicknesses of wood up to 350 mm and several centimeters of metal. The support bar is a channel. The saw frame is welded or bolted to the frame. It must be strictly vertical and fixed at least two points along its length to eliminate the threat of deflection. When jamming the saw (which can sometimes happen) or cutting large-sized material the tension is quite high.

Make a cut in the working area for the saw

Stand has horizontal work table with kerf for bandsaw movement, ruler, stop, clamps and other devices for feed and hold-down of the workpieces. Height of table from the lower stops. 0,7-0,9 m. Boom height above table. 0,6-0,8 m.

Asynchronous electric motor with start-up capacitors is installed in the lower part of the frame, connected to the belt transmission with variable diameter drive pulley. If the cutting speed needs to be changed, the V-belt is simply moved to a different diameter. The tension of the belt is ensured by a spring tension mechanism.

Drawing of a band saw machine

Assembly of the drive

To drive the belt, wooden or metal pulleys of the same diameter (240-260 mm) are used, which are fixed on the shafts mounted on bearings. The lower pulley is connected by a shaft to the motor drive. The saw pulley shafts are mounted on a boom. The lower one is fixed, the upper one is in the slots of the fixed tensioning mechanism. This makes it possible to use belts of different lengths. The machine is protected from belt runout by a special damping mechanism located under the work table. The drawings of this device you can find on the Internet. Sometimes it is possible to see band saws with two dampers. on the bottom and on the top of the working area. This is justified if the machine is designed for large workpieces or extremely high sawing accuracy is required.

Saw shaft

Top 5 Uses for a Band Saw | How to Use a Bandsaw

Lubrication and protection system

Lubrication system (adjustable), mounted above the work table. The oil flows by gravity to the saw blade in the desired quantity, which for each self-made machine is determined experimentally. All rotating or moving work units must be equipped with guards. It is best to make them from waterproof plywood with a thickness of 10 mm or more. It is inexpensive, and the polished plywood painted with enamel looks very good.

Starting system. a standard button with the possibility of emergency shutdown. The lower part of the machine is desirable to perform in the form of a bedside table with a wide door, or even two. One serves to catch the falling sawdust, the second. for access to the pulleys and adjust the belt speed.

Cover the rotating elements with covers

Making a band saw machine with your own hands for an experienced locksmith will not be difficult. Some of the necessary parts and components can be taken from the decommissioned or dismantled machines own company or buy on the market or on the Internet, part. to make yourself. In any case, self-made machine tool will cost two times cheaper than the factory one, with the same level of performance and accuracy of adjustment.

Wood band saw with his hands

If you have the need, time and desire to save money. I propose to make a band saw with my own hands for the at-home workshop.

As a base material we use the Fibreboard sheets with diameter 30mm.

First of all we saw the previously prepared wood-fibre board into pieces according to the dimensions of the drawing, then we begin to assemble the frame of the band saw (basis).

Next, we also take a sheet of fiberboard and saw circles for the pulleys.

Then we saw a pair of basic pulleys, to which we will attach the band saw blade later on.

The lower pulley should be stationary, the upper one on the contrary mobile (thanks to this it will be possible to pass the blade).

In addition, you should make a couple more pulleys of different sizes (small and larger). We use them for the belt drive.

The smaller pulley we mount to the motor shaft, the larger one we use screws to mount to the lower pulley for the dust blade.

To the basic pulleys we attach the rubber with glue, so that the band saw will not slip. The next step is to make a movable block, on which we attach the upper pulley. Fit the handle to the sliding screw.

The final stage of our work is to mount two blocks with guide bearings to the base and attach the belt blade.

What to watch out for

The band saw blade is under tremendous strain as it is used on the machine. The most important aspect in the choice of the tool is the selection of the optimum parameters for the task and the price. Different materials require different forces on the cutting edge, so manufacturers produce standard models for different types of work. To make the right choice of a band saw for wood in the store Euroinstrument, it is recommended to pay attention to the following parameters of the cutting edges of the device:

N. one of the most common configurations with zero rake angle. Generally, this item is not used for cutting wood, but is designed for working metals and materials that produce small chips;

WM. a universal model with a tooth to be installed on narrow blades (up to 50 mm). This product is excellent for hard and soft wood;

AV. variant for working with hardwoods. Can be used cross-cutting or to cut frozen logs;

NV is an excellent choice for high hardness, medium hardness wood. Model is characterized by excellent cutting clarity and is used for contour cuts;

PV is a high performance tool for softwood. This type of blade is commonly found on large industrial saws;

NU. the perfect solution for softwood.

We set attractive on band saws for wood and provide impeccable service.

Band saws for wood from the manufacturer

The basis of full-fledged operation of a woodworking company. Equipping them with all the necessary tools and equipment for working with wood. And who, if not their owners, probably realize the advisability of buying only high-quality and reliable units. That’s why, the excellent decision will be to buy a band saws from trusted brands, which are widely represented in the catalog of our company.

In the product range you can find various models of these devices, carry out a comparative analysis of several modifications and inexpensively buy a band saw in the online store Santeho, corresponding to your individual requirements. But before placing an order, it is worth studying the main features of the products, pay attention to the advantages and disadvantages to make the most profitable purchase.

Band saw for wood is a steel blade welded into a ring, continuously moving when the machine is on. When in use, it can solve even the toughest woodworking tasks, so it is in demand in the woodworking industry.

If you have experienced band sawing at home more than once, or want to try it out for the first time, take a good look at the saw’s parameters.

  • Engine power. This value determines how easy the saw will be to handle hardwood.
  • Cutting height. Chosen depending on the purpose of the equipment and the size of wood to be processed.
  • Tooth pitch. For an optimal bandsaw performance the number of teeth should be a multiple of 3. That is, the blade should be straight, to the left, to the right. Excessive teeth can cause waves in the wood blade.
  • Size and comfortable work at the desktop.
  • The number of working gears of the machine, on which the cutting speed depends.
  • The presence of the carriage.

Design and assembly of a band saw

The unit for sawing various materials can be made by yourself, in the workshops perfectly works band saws. With your own hands you can assemble the saw at the lowest cost and provide for all the details of work.

Bandsaw wood sawing units have a working table in the base, on it the working and additional elements are located, a circular motion of the cutting blade is fed, supported by two wheels. Sufficient space is required for the device and installation of full-fledged equipment, because the equipment, together with the feed line, has large dimensions.

You can make your own hands a portable table setting for manual sawing, but in the small space of the workshop can not be split logs into boards.

The frame design

For the bed choose hard wood to avoid vibration. The surface of the working table can be made of thick plywood, and the side ribs are edged with slats or metal. Supporting rod is made in the form of a beam. A schematic drawing is made in advance, the dimensions of the parts on which depend on horizontal dimensions and height of the workshop. Specified in advance the height of the frame, the diameter of the pulleys and the length of the rods. It is possible to make an accurate detail drawing, which is more convenient for assembly.

The work table is set at a comfortable height, with space for the drive pulley, the lower pulley, the swarf waste and the motor itself. any shape of the table, but often the base is made in the form of a pedestal with closed sides, at the same time serving for accumulation of chips. Easy opening for easy cleaning.

The tabletop is placed directly on the frame. Sometimes the height of the lower bed is not enough, in which case make a strong cradle to raise the surface of the table to the desired height.

Installation of the rod and sheaves

Support rod is made of a bar profile with a cross section of not less than 8 x 8 centimeters. On the side that is taken as a conventional rear surface, two supports are attached to it, on which the pulleys (wheels) will be located. Supports are made of strong material, laminated plywood with a solid frame is acceptable. The distance between the wheels should be chosen so that the log to be sawn through, with an extra margin on the sides.

The diameter of the pulleys is chosen arbitrarily, an increase in the index leads to a better quality of work. For selection, there is an unspoken rule, according to which the ratio of the cutting blade to the diameter of the pulley is 1/1000. For example, for a 4 mm wide band, the wheel diameter should be 400 mm.

The diameter of the belt drive tensioning wheel is selected according to the length of the cutting belt, the diameter of the main pulleys and the speed of the engine.

The pulley edge for the blade is slightly convex, about 5-10˚, which contributes to the self-centering of the tape, so it does not go to the side and does not fall off. A shallow groove is provided on the drive sheave to accommodate the belt. It is common to use bicycle inner tubes for tightening the pulley, the rubber of which prevents the belt from coming off.

The upper pulley is placed on the horizontally moving block to select the belt tension. This requires a lifting mechanism, a simple version of which is a bar connected by a spring to the lever and located under the block. The arm is fastened with several bolts at different levels, and a spring provides the necessary pressure.

The lower pulley is made up of two wheels (drive and idler) arranged on an axle. It is important to balance the lower and upper pulleys in the plane, minimizing the appearance of “eights”. It is convenient to attach the upper pulley with self-aligning bearings, fastened firmly to the wheels. Run the machine for a short test run after this initial assembly stage.

Installation of blade guides

For the saw to cut the material evenly and the band not to be pressed through, on a narrow bar along the blunt end of the saw a guide is set. A common variant of the device is three bearings located on the bar, one of which lays the blade flat side, the other two support it from the sides. Sometimes, instead of bearings, wooden stops are placed on the sides.

Align the guides at the bearing point so that there is no vertical deflection at the opposite end; for convenience, the position of the beam is marked with the cloth stretched out.

The process of soldering a cutting strip

Soldering in the workshop takes place as follows:

  • places at the junction of the blade on both ends are ground, and a brass strip is placed between the surfaces;
  • To make the strip cut a piece of brass (0,3-0,4 mm) on the width of the saw blade, moisten and sprinkle with borax powder from both sides;
  • pincer jaws are heated by any available method (gas burner or horn) to a bright red color, applied to the solder joint and pressed down;
  • the strip is heated by the red-hot jaws, the brass melts and spreads, and the borax works as a flux that prevents solder oxidation when heated;
  • do not remove the pincers until the joint is completely cooled and the solder hardens, after removing them, moisten the soldering point with a wet hardening sponge;
  • Inspect the joint, its hardness should correspond to the web;
  • if the joint is hard, the procedure of heating with pliers is repeated until a straw color of solder appears, gradually cool it down;
  • soft soldering requires another red-hot heating with tongs and sharper cooling;
  • To prevent the pincer jaws from soldering to the saw blade in the process, a solution of chalk with liquid glass is applied to their contact surfaces;
  • to install and tension on the lower and upper pulley use a crank, check the correct position on the discs and rollers stop by rotation, adjust the correctness of the passage;
  • Turn the machine on for a short time and adjust as required.
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