It is necessary to shorten the acrylic bath? 2 real ways to do this quickly and efficiently

I faced a problem-the length of the acrylic bathtub Bash with hydromassage-170 cm. The distance between the walls is 169.2 cm. (about).

The result-the bath costs for 5 years, but it bends a little at the load and because of this the silicone leaves in the junction with the wall.

I ask for advice. the easier it is to shorten it by about 10 mm. (I am considering corner grinding, or tape grinder) ?

Also, the experience is interested in whether it is possible to stick on the tile to the tile- ceramic side (profile-triangle) on an acrylic bathtub to the wall (tile) on an acrylic bath ?

cut in any way.stiffness is lost, the trough becomes like a jelly, only pick the wall.glue the side on the silicone, the glue will not take.Checked.

Dear Ruslan! And if you do not completely cut off the side in the acrylic bathtub, and cut the square 8 by 3 cm in order to move the bathtub with loss of the integrity of the bath in a dense to the wall (heating pipes and the corner bath are not included, but I really wanted to accommodate it)

Ruslan1111 wrote: cut in any way.stiffness is lost, the trough becomes like a jelly, only pick the wall.glue the side on the silicone, the glue will not take.Checked.

I bought an acrylic bathroom 1.7 (production) with the calculation of circumcision 5 cm.I took a chance. cut it. I didn’t lose hardness on the “gram”, screwed the legs. installed. it costs like

I didn’t even expect it that it would work out. Tolum of the walls of the bathtub from 3 to 5 mm. View photo here “

Add a bimetal hacksaw to the tools under consideration.It will help to solve your problem without dismantling.And before fastening the corners, fill the bath with water.

Jan Kolesnik. cut the edge of the bathroom? Something is not noticeable from the photo. Otherwise I need to cut at once from three sides. I’m afraid that stiffness will disappear

But I cut (in the photo Yana, by the way, it can be seen that the floor was brushed off!). MAZ is such. depending on how much to cut and depends on how to fix it. If you need to shorten by 0.5-1 cm, then in principle it is well cut off, for example, an electric horn. Usually, the outer lapel of the side is inclined and a little of this inclination. you can demolish. Better. on both sides, if the length does not fit a little. If there is a lot (like yang). then, kmk at its fuck and risk. But, in any case (and with trim. especially), acrylic should be fixed to the walls. T.e. to lean on the side of the bar organized on the walls on all possible walls-the method spied on the forum here. If rectangular in the spacer. then three walls. The level of the lower edge is assembled, measured at this level, an undercut bar is installed on the wall. And made 2040 from the profile aluminum pipe, liquid guards are grouse. Also made from the rules of alminar. Then the angle of the bar and tiles is smeared with silicone, and the edge of the bath is lowered there (to bring the bath above so as not to grease the silicone). The bath is filled with water to crush into working condition and in this state the silicone glued the bath to the support. I believe, if you cut a lot, then if you make a support at the appropriate level along the cut edge, then everything will be fine, even if the lapel is completely browned, like Yana. Then the joint is sealing. How. almost a holivar topic

it.Personal experience on 3 baths (a little). I didn’t cut much, but thoughts about this. described.

The reasons for the formation of a gap between the wall and the bathroom

When installing the bath, a large gap of 50. 300 mm is formed between its upper side and the wall for several reasons:

The bath cannot be pressed against the wall due to pipes. The bowl is shorter than the walls. the standard situation for combined, separate bathrooms; Mismatch of the length of the partition and bath. dumb angle of walls. the gap between the wall/bathroom in the form of a wedge. Trapezoid bathroom. Attention: In this manual, narrow slots of 0.5. 2 cm are not considered, which can be sealed with sealant, skirting boards, tile profiles and decoration defects. the absence of straight angles when laying the tiles, “wavy” cladding.

With the width of the gap between the plumbing device, a partition of less than 1 m, this space becomes not used. To ensure tightness during swimming, you can use the curtain on the Mr-shaped cornice, as in the photo below.

However, it is much more efficient to close this gap to increase the area of ​​the bathtubs for placing detergents on it, toiletries.

Technology for the installation of ceramic border for a bath

Ceramic borders consist of straight, corner and end elements. The number of direct elements is considered based on the size of the bath/shower pallet, angles and ends with standard placement for the bath requires two, for the shower tray there can be one angle. Take the number of direct elements with a small margin. for trimming.

Before laying, it is advisable to inspect all the elements. If there is a need (they do not fit, there are changes in thickness, etc.P.), the back of the side can be a little as a file. It is better not to use corner grinders. it is too great a chance to harm more than fix it.

Methods of installation

The method of installing a ceramic border depends on the decoration of the wall and the size of the gap. If these are tiles, you can use waterproof glue. If the tile is embossed or the wall is simply plastered, the installation on glue does not dates the required level of tightness. In this case, a ceramic border for a bath for a special glue for tiles for wet rooms is mounted. It is sold in bags in dry form, before use, some amount is mixed with water until a homogeneous state.

Colors can be different, but more often use white. in the color of the bath

Sequencing

The whole process consists of a sequence of steps:

  • The surface is cleaned of raids and dust. If there is mold, remove it, treat the wall with an antibacterial composition, let it dry.
  • If the gap between the bathroom and the wall exceeds half the width of the existing border, it must be previously close. Better. make the formwork from below and pour cement mortar. The second way is to attach a moisture.resistant hyposcarton in two layers. If the shelf is large (more than 5 cm), it must be done with a slope. You can about 5%. So the shelf will be able to use (put something on it) and the water will not stagnate on it. If necessary (if the curb does not overlap it all), the tile, which the walls are trimmed, is first laid, after the installation of a ceramic border for a bath continues.
  • Start from one of the corners. Set a corner, then two adjacent straight sections. A layer of glue is applied to the back of the curb, leveled. Set in place, pressed, aligned in level.
  • Then they continue to lay in one of the sides. On the sidewalls, the end elements are installed.

Ceramic plinth for a bath may be so

The process of installing a ceramic border for the bathroom is not much different from masonry tiles. The actions are the same. It is necessary to level the elements in two planes. so that both the edges and the plane go even and without differences.

Ways to get out of the situation

First you need to explain that shortening the bathtub radical, but not the only way to solve the problem. It is worth thinking about the following moments.

If you have saved documents for the goods, it can always be exchanged in the store for the appropriate. True, this may be due to some inconveniences: paying for movers and transportation to the purchase site, although it will be the most correct decision. Unfortunately, the necessary product is not always available, so you should look at the next method.

Make a gut in the wall under the bath. An excellent exit from the situation, the bath will acquire an additional support on board, and the design becomes much tougher. But this method is very dirty, and it is only possible if the tiles have not yet been laid, because cutting the stacked ceramics is a big risk. The supporting wall can also be an obstacle, it is strictly prohibited to make horizontal bar in it.

If the above methods have not come up to you, there is nothing left but to cut a bath. How to do this correctly and with less losses we will consider below.

Underwater rocks

What to do after the cutting work is carried out and how to protect yourself from probable negative consequences?

  • Due to the decrease in the rigidity of the edge on the side of the cut, during operation, there may be some kind of violation of the geometry of the bath, what the specialists call “led”. Experienced masters recommend that in this case it is not on the regular legs to install a bath, but on a strong frame.
  • You can return the desired hardness of the edge using the above.mentioned set for repairing bumper from fiberglass and epoxy composition. It is necessary to glue them no longer a cut, but the inner surface of the bend of the edge of the bath, for 1-2 centimeters. This will help to make an auxiliary support of the edge.
  • Can be attached to the wall, from the side of the cut, a duralumin profile or a tree bar. The board of the bath will be based on them. This will ensure the stiffness of the entire structure.

It is worth holding in mind that after shortening the bath, you will lose a guarantee. But with this, to chagrin, nothing can be done.

How to shorten it correctly?

If you still decide to remove several cm from your bath, you should get acquainted with the annotation below:

  • Tearnly take all the measurements and exactly decide how much it will be necessary to cut.The proverb “measure seven times, cut once”. specifically about this.
  • Glue the surface in place of the upcoming cut with a painting ribbon. It will not allow to seem cracks and chips and it is more convenient to mark it on it.
  • Gently and leisurely mark the future incision. Draw a fishing line for a cutter cut by a felt.tip pen or marker.

As if you see, nothing terrible and unrealistic is that there is no acrylic bathtub to cut the edge of the acrylic bath without the help. Follow the simple rules, take your time and take measurements painstakingly. then the bath will serve for you for long and long years.

Underwater rocks

What to do after the cutting work is carried out and how to protect yourself from possible negative consequences?

  • Due to the decrease in the rigidity of the edge on the side of the section, during operation, some violation of the geometry of the bath is possible, what experts call “led”. Experienced masters in this case are advised to install a bath not on regular legs, but on a strong frame.
  • You can return the necessary rigidity of the edge using the above set for repairing bumper from fiberglass and epoxy composition. It is necessary to glue them no longer a cut, but the inner surface of the bend of the edge of the bath, for 1-2 centimeters. This will help create an additional support of the edge.
  • Can be attached to the wall, from the side of the cut, an aluminum profile or wooden bar. The board of the bath will be based on them. This will ensure the stiffness of the entire structure.

It is worth remembering that after shortening the bath, you will lose a guarantee. But this, unfortunately, nothing can be done about.

As you can see, there is nothing terrible and impossible to cut the edge of the acrylic bathtub yourself. Follow the simple rules, do not rush and take measurements carefully. then the bath will last you for many years.

Is it possible to cut off 2 cm from the end of the bath (acrylic) so that it enters the dimensions, what can be the consequences for plastic ? Exfoliates, etc.

Where did you all gather an acrylic bathtub gathered? If there were cast iron, then no problem. Cut acrylic baths, and more than once. There will be nothing with plastic. The only thing to restore the rib of stiffness before putting a cut bath, attach an angle to the wall, for example. Everything

Masters online: 400 orders per week: 2,149 offers per day: 680

I also think so, especially that the end is usually rounded down, forming a rib of stiffness

I would advise not to examine. If there is no way to drown in the wall, try to ask your question directly to the manufacturer.

acrylic, bathtub, height, install, bath

I completely agree with you. You can cut off anything. Only then can the consequences be deplorable.

Of course, you can cut it more than once. But, you need to think for the forward, you can cut off one centimeter on both sides? Will the curb corner be glued.

Better and rather, it will shut up into the wall!You didn’t put the tile before installing the bath?

you can if it is then filled with a curb or corners itself does not exfoliate and does not crack!

School is more reliable, even if the tile is laid, an angular grinder with a diamond disk and forward.On the other side where the drain, then the curb ribbon will close, only you need to go through the selikon tape!

In fact, the bath is light, it is better to last, thereby strengthen the bath.You can’t cut it, break the gesture rib

Acrylic bathtubs cannot be walled up in the strobe, (read the installation instructions) t.to at a temperature expansion, she will have no place where and she will crack.

Where did you all gather an acrylic bathtub gathered? If there were cast iron, then no problem. Cut acrylic baths, and more than once. There will be nothing with plastic. The only thing to restore the rib of stiffness before putting a cut bath, attach an angle to the wall, for example. Everything

Thanks for the competent advice, sorry I did not find your brigade before.

We and cast iron, once cut. Not any bath, by the way, can be cut off without consequences, well, in general, everything is correct.

Reference will not exfoliate anything, verified.

You can cut off, only stiffness is lost

How To Fix My Bath Using The Anglo Acrylic Bath Repair Kit

You can if you do not ruin its stiffness

I agree with Vitalik Arkhipov. Cut and more than once))

It is better on the place on the wall where the bathtub rests, drink a canal with a small corner grinder, 5mm more than the board of the bath, and after that, like a bath, drive into the voids or a mounting foam, or a sealant of silicone.

Dear masters! If there was an opportunity and desire to install a bath without carving, then I would not ask a question, not the first year after my husband.

you can cut off the bath, and what is the problem? let it get into the wall better. We are cast iron 1.50 in room 1.48 inserted

acrylic, bathtub, height, install, bath

How to correct the acrylic bath if it is not included in the old?

To carefully shorten the acrylic bath, you need to perform a number of actions:

Thoroughly measure and marker to apply a fishing line for a trimmer on which you will cut

Paste tape glue the surface along the cut of the cut, this is so that there are no chips and cracks during cutting

Eleklobzik with small teeth carefully cut. Carefully! You need to do this slowly so that the material does not overheat and does not oath from high temperatures

Process a special cut.the composition (for example, a combi repair for cars is suitable, do not forget to degrease the surface before that)

Cut the acrylic bathtub

#1 Olga-83

Bought an acrylic bath 180 cm. She, infection, 2 cm into the bathroom does not pass. Drinking the walls is not an option- the tile is already laid, and this will not help. Thought with my husband- and if you cut it around the edges ? Who did this ? I read the conflicting opinions on the internet, who says that it is possible, who says that it is impossible. Dear forum users, maybe someone has come across. tell me. you can do this to her then ?

#2 fan

Do not try to cut the edges. The ribs of stiffness go around the perimeter. You will cut the end. Disrupt the rigidity of the top. With all the ensuing.

Put one wall in depth by 2 cm. in the length of the end of the bathroom and the height of the stiffener (the one to which the end of the bathroom with the largest width of the side adjoins). if you do not have concrete partitions)

Otherwise, you have to think on the spot. With flowing. GG

Plumbing: heating, water supply, sewage. Installation, assistance in acquisition, consultation. Tel 8-962-I76-98-O7. I don’t take money for the demand)

#3 Olga-83

Stroke the wall is not an option, I repeat. it does not enter the length of the bathroom itself, it stands across and not here and not here. it is necessary that the bath would be at least 178. We would then dismantle it on the screws and shove it)) We read different forums of different. that the people cut off and it seems like everything is ok. over, we dream of only one side to shorten her

#4 fan

Why did you get that it is impossible to more or less carefully cut the gap in the tile ? still sculpt the side. since you did not mow it.

Want to cut the kanesh. The business business. If symmetry worries, you can cut 2 cm from one side and from the other. 1.

Bath. by the way. during installation, they turn not only horizontally, but also vertically. combine. so to speak.

Personally, I would cut out the niches in the wall for myself (if you keep silent with the aggravation). shoved the bath and closed everything with the side.

Plumbing: heating, water supply, sewage. Installation, assistance in acquisition, consultation. Tel 8-962-I76-98-O7. I don’t take money for the demand)

#5 Olga-83

Fan, I don’t know how to explain to you. You understand that we have the width of the bathroom (after laying the tiles). 179 cm.And the bathroom is not standard, there the box still interferes. How can we shove a bath 180 there ?She is generally not included in the room in a straight line, she has to pull the diagonals and, as a result, she stuck across and everything. here at least scrape. it will not enter. if only one wall is demolished, but this is not included in our plans.

#7 BMV-25

Fan, I don’t know how to explain to you. You understand that we have the width of the bathroom (after laying the tiles). 179 cm.And the bathroom is not standard, there the box still interferes. How can we shove a bath 180 there ?She is generally not included in the room in a straight line, she has to pull the diagonals and, as a result, she stuck across and everything. here at least scrape. it will not enter. if only one wall is demolished, but this is not included in our plans.

Cut the side of the shower tray there was nothing terrible (there was a rather thick layer of fiberglass) stiffness remained.

If I put it off, without hesitation, without hesitation under the cut out the square of a square section, tightly to the wall.

#8 muzruk

As they say, the collective farm is voluntary.

#9 fan

By the same, once a rectangular profile was made for the pallet (the square there is useless. excess metal consumption). too option: trim the end. pin a profile for the side of the side of the side and put a bath on it. Only a dear Olga I don’t understand you: you don’t have enough 2 cm. then one. And you think. that having cut off 1-2 cm. You will deploy it in the bathroom ? I doubt. but. However, good luck to you.

And I would not change the bath. To sculpt sides. Anyworthy shelves. Schaz myself, I change the bathtub 150 to 170 of.For the same. Only on the contrary.

Plumbing: heating, water supply, sewage. Installation, assistance in acquisition, consultation. Tel 8-962-I76-98-O7. I don’t take money for the demand)

#10 BMV-25

As they say, the collective farm is voluntary.

A person will buy a bath 170 and ask what to do with a hole of 8 cm.

Ways to get out of the situation

First you need to explain that shortening the bathtub radical, but not the only way to solve the problem. It is worth thinking about the following moments.

If you have saved documents for the goods, it can always be exchanged in the store for the appropriate. True, this may be due to some inconveniences: paying for movers and transportation to the purchase site, although it will be the most correct decision. Unfortunately, the necessary product is not always available, so you should look at the next method.

Make a gut in the wall under the bath. An excellent exit from the situation, the bath will acquire an additional support on board, and the design becomes much tougher. But this method is very dirty, and it is only possible if the tiles have not yet been laid, because cutting the stacked ceramics is a big risk. The supporting wall can also be an obstacle, it is strictly prohibited to make horizontal bar in it.

If the above methods have not come up to you, there is nothing left but to cut a bath. How to do this correctly and with less losses we will consider below.

It is necessary to shorten the acrylic bath? 2 real ways to do this quickly and efficiently

When buying an acrylic bath, it is always worth considering the area available for it in the room. After all, there are times when, bringing the just purchased bath to the house, unpacking it, it turns out that it is not subject to size. Before buying, you can measure the length of the room, its width, then in the store to measure the bath itself, but in the end it will still be suitable, since some small detail was not taken into account, for example, not yet laid tiles on the wall. Yes, such situations happen quite rarely, but if this happens, then what solution can be?

There are 2 ways to solve this problem, but in fact, the first way is to replace the bath with another in the store. This method is not considered the most successful, because most bathtubs are multiplying 10 centimeters in length, because of which, if you replace your “long” bath with a shorter, a very unpleasant gap may form. over, there is a chance that the store does not find the bath you need. One way or another, replacing the bath is quite easily an enforcement solution, especially compared to the second way.

As for the second method, this is the stroke of the wall. This option of shortening the bathtub has both their pros and cons, but we will start with the pluses. The first of which is that you don’t have to change the bath. Perhaps you chose a bath for a long time and tediously in appearance, by combination with a room, on decorative elements, replacement for another bath can turn into a whole problem. The second plus is that the correct stroke of the wall creates an additional stiffener frame for the bath, it will stand stronger, and accordingly it can last longer. We attribute to the disadvantages that it is not recommended to stroke a wall covered with tiles. this is not safe. Also, the problem may arise if the wall that needs to be stroobbed will be carrier, because making horizontal strobes in monolithic walls is strictly prohibited.

Many could have assumed that there is another way. trimming the bath. This is not advised to do this, since the sides along the edges of the bath are a kind of stiffness frame, cutting off which there is a risk to break the bath soon. Some people, cutting the bath, are trying to balance in stiffness with an additional homemade frame. This option can serve as a solution to the problem, but to build an additional stiffness frame is a rather laborious work and requires a specialist intervention.

On the site: author and editor of articles on the Pobetony website.ru Education and work experience: Higher technical education. Experience in various industries and construction sites. 12 years, of which 8 years. abroad.Other skills: has a 4th group of electrical safety tolerance. Calculations using large data arrays.Current employment: the last 4 years has been acting as an independent consultant in a number of construction companies.

Why and what to drill, saw and cut an acrylic bath

Initially, the liner does not have holes for draining and water overflow. Naturally, they need to be done, or more precisely, drill.

This is done by a conventional drill or a battery screwdriver using a drill with a diameter of 5 mm and a special crown for wooden or stone holes. Its diameter should coincide with the circle of drain and overflow.

In order for the holes to coincide perfectly, put the liner into the main container and mark the centers of the plums. Then combine the drill with the center and drill part on the outside, and then from the inside. The turns should not be done too large.

For information: the thickness of a high.quality liner should be at least 6 mm.

After drilling, clean the edges with the smallest sandpaper.

Acrylic insert can be compared with a lid for a jar. She has sides that go around the edges of the capacity. If the bathtub is closely adjacent to the walls, then these sides must be cut or cut off.

Tools that you can use:

How to Install a Bath Tub

When cutting the edges of the corner grinder, we use cutting discs for any metal 1. 1 thick.6 mm.

Working with a jigsaw, install a special saw canvas with fine threads, then the cut will be cleaner.

Before you proceed to cut or cutting, make measurements very accurately and apply them to the sides of the liner with a felt.tip pen. The liner should perfectly enter the container, while you need to observe even contact with the wall.

Carry yourself with clockwork and confident movements to avoid an uneven, wavy edge.

Perhaps you decided to remove the old bath to put the tile behind it. In this case, the installation of the acrylic insert is best done without cutting. Then the deformation can be avoided, and under the liner water will not fall under any circumstances. This will increase its life.

If you want to get a new, beautiful, practical and comfortable bath, without spending a lot of unnecessary efforts and cash on it, make an acrylic bathtub using an insert. It will last you for a very long time.

How to dump a bath with mounting foam. Step-by-step instruction

1) At the first stage, you should turn the bathtub upside down. Before starting, it is necessary to think through the design on which the bath will lie. If you put it on the bare floor, then most likely the surface of the product is scratched.

2) the lower surface on which the foam will be applied should be thoroughly wiped, cleaned of dust and dirt. Next, wipe the bath with a special degreaser, which can be purchased in a construction store. Also, this tool can replace medical alcohol.

3) Then we proceed to the preparation of the cylinder with mounting foam. Before squeezing it must be a little heated. To do this, put the balloon hot water for a few minutes.

4) use the spray gunner. With it, you will need to spray the surface of the bath. After this procedure is performed, the interaction of foam and the bathroom will significantly increase.

5) Cover the bath with foam. Each layer should have enough thickness. All layers should fit tightly to each other.

7) Let the foam dry. This will take about 12 hours. Subsequently, excess should be cut off using a knife.

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