Table for mitre saw with my own hands: preparation of materials and tools, assembly
To begin with, let’s understand what a crosscut saw is, and why it is needed. It is worth noting that, first of all, this is an electric tool designed for working with lumber. Secondly, the main feature of this tool is the ability to cut the ends of wooden parts precisely at the right angle.
Of course, such a tool is necessary to have in a joinery workshop, with a large amount of work. How to make such a tool yourself, will be discussed in this article.
Make movable stops
Determine the width of the sliding stop G for the mitre saw by measuring the distance from the front edge of the 1st extension to the front side of the stop on the machine table. The width of the mobile stop H for the chisel cutter is determined by the distance from the front edge of the extension to the center of the chisel. Then find the distance from the center of the board to the inner side of the uprights D, which is closest to the base-platform, in order to determine the length of the sliding blocks. After determining the dimensions, saw out the flyer in 19mm material.
Then, using a circular saw with a circular saw blade, make a groove with a depth of 3 mm on both sides of each piece at a distance of 60 mm from the front edge and make a 3×3 mm groove at the top and bottom along each end. Now saw two slats I with the dimensions 11x19x305 mm from hardwood and file them down.
Determine the distance from the protruding end of the upper flange E to the inner side of post D, closest to the platform base, and saw the guide rails to that length. Glue them into the sliding stops, aligning the ends with the shoulders of the dust folds, as shown in the figure. Note. For a front-mounted slotting machine, it may be necessary to make a notch on the mobile stop that allows you to move the stop to the center of the table.
Add expansion supports
For the D Expansion legs, cut four 152 x 508-mm blanks. To determine their final width, place an end saw on top of the upper panel A. Place a long straight board rule on the saw table and support handle B so that its ends extend beyond the edge of the platform. Measure from rule to bottom side of bottom panel. Saw blanks of the D supports to this width and save the trim.
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To mark on the expansion supports D the centers of the holes into which the pipe ends are inserted. Mark on one end of the bottom panel A the centers of the openings between the tube guides C. Draw center lines for the outer opening at the front and for the inner opening at the back.
Align the ends of support D with the bottom panel A and transfer the center marks for the pipe openings.
Rotate the support 90°. Mark on its end the position of the underside of the upper panel A.
Now, with the extension leg D edge against the bottom panel, extend the indicated center lines of the openings (photo C). Turn the support over to press it against both panels and the rule, and mark with a line the position of the bottom of the upper panel on it (photo D). This trimmer line defines the top edge of the pipe openings so that the top of the supports is flush with the surface of the trimmer table. Using a square, mark out the intersections by drawing lines from the marks you made on the support. Transfer these marks and draw lines on the rest of the expansion supports.
Align the Forstner drill with the marking lines on the support D. Drill 25mm diameter holes in the outer supports and 28mm in the inner supports.
In the two outermost supports of expansions D make the holes of 25mm in diameter on the markings by Forstner’s drill (photo E). Mark these parts as external. Insert a 28mm drill bit into the chuck and set the stop to line up the cutting rim of the drill bit with the top line of the holes. Make the holes in the two remaining tubes. (The larger holes will allow the expansion joints to slide easily over the pipes.) Please note: the distance between the centers of the holes must be the same for all supports. When placing the supports on the pipes on either side of the platform, you will need to turn one pair of supports with the ends.
Drill mounting holes through the edges of the two outriggers D and through the steel pipes and drive the screws.
Cut a 6 mm rounding on the hole edges of the inner supports D Check how the pipes are inserted into the holes of the outer supports. Use a round file or an electric drill bit to enlarge the holes, if necessary, so that the pipe ends can fit snugly into them. Do not touch the upper edge of the holes with file or sandpaper to keep the correct position of the supports. Insert the pipes, align their ends flush with the outside of the outer supports, drill mounting holes to secure the pipes and screw in the screws (Fig. 2, photo F).
Saw out the hinged stops E and drill 8 mm holes in them
To attach the hinged stops to the outer supports of the expansions D mark the center on the inside of each stop Note the different position of the holes in the right and left stops. they should be at the front side of the table-platform. After making counterbores and drilling the holes, insert the flange nuts M6 in them.
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How to make a table for mitre saw with your own hands?
Screw woodchopper to help the villager
The screw-shaped, rack-and-pinion, pneumatic woodchopper are tools made for splitting logs into logs. Rural craftsmen assemble firewood cutters from improvised parts, but they are low-powered, the designs require revision. Column with a rotating cone is easy to make without the aid of others, or buy cheap.
The structure of the electric powered screw cone chopper
The woodchopper with an electronic or diesel drive is an installation capable of processing up to 10-12 cubic meters of logs about 60 cm in length (the standard firewood). Use a billet set to reduce labor costs. In home conditions the installations of the highest capacity are not in demand.
The device screw-shaped firewood is based on the interaction of a pair of screw-nut, where the nut is a soft wood. On a solid metal platform mounted geared motor with the tip of a cone-shaped propeller, which rotates at a speed of 250-450 rpm. From the same motor is set in motion stubborn bar, which pushes the billets, standing at the end, on a rotating cone. As a result of entering the cone of the woodchopper into the lateral surface of the billets, the wood splits along the fibers.
Safety precautions must be observed when working with the woodchopper. The clothes should sit snugly on the body. The gloves are a threat factor. It is better to work with thick gloves.
The motor reducer is replaced by a belt drive with the motor installed under the chopping table. Then the rotation on the shaft of the screw cone is transmitted by pulleys designed for rational turns of the screw. This design allows the use of a 220 V single-phase motor, with it the cost of the screw-shaped woodchopper becomes much lower. If the wood splitter is equipped with an end switch, the working cone will rotate back to the initial position without the aid of others. How the screw-shaped wood splitter works, you can see
The main working body is a cone for the woodchopper, which can be ordered in a lathe workshop. To make the screw woodchopper work with your own hands, here are some drawings for craftsmen.
Miter Saw Table with your own hands (part 3/3) Miter Saw Station
The final part on the table for mitre saws. Made the side stops, Plexiglas shield.
Face saw table with your own hands (part 1/3). Miter Saw Station
Decided to organize a table for facing. Already managed to make two bases under the table top, further will be ustano.
To make the thread with an angle grinder is not possible, because the stop thread on the “carrot” must be exactly aligned. In addition, in the manufacture of the cone turner must know the ratio of length to base section. 2:1, two-entry thread with a pitch of 5-6 mm, tooth profile, like a chisel.
Depending on the size of the part, it will cost up to 5000. A complete working unit:
The whole kit will not cost more than 6 thousand, but made for the calculated load, the unit is safer.
Manufactured machine must meet the following requirements:
- motor power is not less than 2 kW;
- at higher revolutions, the pitch of the thread must be kept smaller to reduce the load on the drive;
- the fit on the gear shaft must be tight, avoiding twisting;
- The cone is made of tool steel;
- screw point is sharpened, it should enter the wood softly, without effort;
- working platform height. 80 cm.
Many carpenters have a large number of different saws. Some you can work without additional devices, but the circular will be difficult to use by hand. Table for manual circular saw, made by yourself. this is quite a real way to save money and ensure yourself a comfortable cutting of a large amount of materials. over, it’s not hard to make, the main thing is to make the drawings correctly and provide yourself with the necessary tools.
Advantages of a home-made table for a circular saw
Circular table from a manual circular saw with his own hands will provide comfort when sawing, as will be made according to your wishes. The working surface will be a convenient size, which is difficult to find in the store, where mostly standard tabletops. over, there are situations when the need for a router table arises unexpectedly and the option of buying one is completely out of the question. Do not despair, using the advice of skilled carpenters, you can create a model that will be no worse than the store version.
Make the sliding stops
Determine the width of the sliding stop G for the mitre saw by measuring the distance from the leading edge of one of the expansions to the front of the stop on the machine table. The width of the sliding stop H for a slotting machine is determined by the distance from the front edge of the extension to the center of the bit. Measure the distance from the center of the table to the inner side of post D, closest to the base-platform, to determine the length of the sliding stops. Once you have determined the dimensions, saw out a 19 mm material.
Then, with the help of a saw machine with a grooved disk, choose tongue and groove 3 mm deep on both sides of each piece at a distance of 60 mm from the front edge, and make the top and bottom along each end of the dust folds 3 × 3 mm. Now saw two 11x19x305 mm guide strips I out of solid wood and cut them to length.
Measure from the projecting end of the top flange E to the inside of post D, nearest the platform base, and file the guide rails to that length. Glue them into the grooves of the sliding stops, aligning the ends with the shoulders of the dustproof rebates, as shown in the picture. Note. And for a chisel mill with front clamping of the workpieces, you may need to make a notch on the movable stop, allowing you to move the stop to the center of the table.
You can make your own circular table from a variety of materials. The most common are:
Each has its own advantages. Laminated chipboard, plywood, and fiberboard are easy and simple to work with. These pieces of lumber are also reasonably priced. But products made of wood have higher strength and technical characteristics.
Attention: before you begin assembling the product, all of its wooden elements are treated with antiseptic.
On the right choice of materials for the production of the table depends on its life and quality of milling parts. What materials are recommended for this purpose?
It is possible to use and glued furniture boards made of natural lamellas, they do not change their own size when fluctuating relative humidity, but such a table for the cutter will cost very expensive. Natural boards are strictly prohibited from use because of the constant warping to one side or the other, which has a very negative impact on the quality of milling.
The tabletop made of boards for the production of the milling machine is not suitable
We give a step-by-step annotation of the production of 2 simple, but very versatile, tables for the miller. Dimensions are given only general, certain depend on the type of hand router, and there are an unlimited number of them in the implementation. Any model differs in several parameters, which should be taken into account during the performance of work.
The assembly diagram for a router table. 1. side strip for fastening with clamps on the trestle; 2. the tsar; 3. countersunk guide holes; 4. the front wall of the stop; 5. countersunk screw 4,5×42 mm; 6. the slash; 7. the base of the stop
Making a tabletop
Cut a piece for the tabletop from a sheet of plywood. The size can be arbitrary, but more than 80×80 cm. On a very small to work awkwardly, workpieces are constantly falling, they have to be supported from the back. Make a mark on the plywood, attach it to the work table with clamps, set a stubborn ruler for the saw and carefully cut off the excess material.
Practical tip. It is strongly advised to make all works with an electric jigsaw and a portable saw only under the ruler. Do not expect to get a smooth cut without this tool.
Mark the position of the hole for the mill. This is also a random parameter. Almost everything depends on whether you will adapt the future stubborn ruler for the mill, whether there is a box for collecting and removing sawdust, which parts are supposed to work, etc. д. As practice shows, it is recommended to place the hole at 1/3 of the width from the longitudinal edge.
Make a mark and drill a hole. Its cross section should exceed by only a few mm the cross section of the largest mill, which will be used on this machine. It is not necessary to make a very large hole for several reasons:
- The larger the gap between the cutter blades and the worktop, the greater the chance of material getting into it. And it provokes the emergence of unsafe situations: can jam the mill or fly away at high speed, splinters hurt the master;
- if you have to mill thin parts, the ends are very vibrating in the slots. no stop. As a consequence, you need to cut off the uneven parts, which increases the consumption of lumber.
The hole is drilled by a special drill bit with the appropriate cross section.
Place the router in the hole, making sure that it is correctly positioned. Very carefully draw a trimmer line around the perimeter of the base. Take care that the tool does not move during this process, hold it with one hand at all times.
Try on the milling tool to the hole and carefully trace it with a pencil
Set the depth of cutter to 5mm and very carefully cut out the seating along the outline drawn. Check the hole, stick the router in it. It should fit tightly and not wobble. Adjust the planting socket to the appropriate specifications as needed. Everything is normal. fine, remove burrs with a burr and continue work on making the table for the router.
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The fitting place must fit exactly to the contour of the router
Prepare the same seating hole on one more piece of plywood, but now you need to make it through. Cut the part, its size should be about 15-20 cm exceed the cross section of the mill base.
Make a workpiece with a cutout of the same shape and size
Put the workpiece on the table top, align the holes and place the router in them. You need to note the placement and size of the 2 parallel guides. The ruler of the router is placed on them, in our case it is removed. But the guides do not need to be touched, they increase the reliability of the milling machine to the table, a hundred percent eliminates the possibility of turning the body. The fact that over time, the landing slot can slightly grow in cross-section, the housing with the engine will wobble. The long guides make for quite large levers that hold the rotating loads perfectly.
The workpieces are aligned and the router is inserted
Measure the cross section of the iron pins, set the proper depth of the mill and make under their grooves.
Connect the two elements of the table, put the cutter in place. Painstakingly check the position, manually scroll the rotor, it should not touch anything. Everything is normal. screw in the plywood.
A word about electronics
Circular saw is electrical equipment that operates in the vicinity of a 220-volt power supply. If the user has sufficient knowledge and experience in electronics, he can shunt the start and stop keys of the saw, and then put them in a convenient place (usually the outside of one of the stiffeners).
If the scheme seems complicated, it is worth tying the start button with a wire, and turn on the equipment with a power cord. But this method is bad in that it prevents the tool from shutting down quickly in an emergency situation.