Cutters for a power tiller: what is better active saber or goose feet, how to assemble correctly with your own hands, drawings and dimensions
Grip of the wheels of the tillage machine with the soil can be strengthened if you use the grousers or walk-reducer for a power tiller. Stair-steppers are attachable devices. It makes it possible to reduce the speed of the agricultural machine and increase the traction force along with the torque. The analogue of the gearbox works with a chain and sprockets on the shafts. If you want, you can make these gadgets yourself. Parts are used from other machines.
Each converter considered has its own disadvantages. To minimize them, it’s worth trying to make a device yourself. A self-made thing can be of higher quality and more convenient to use than a purchased copy.
Making a rotary tiller for a power tiller with your own hands
The drawing of the gooseneck cutter shows the design of the rotary cutter rotor element for the power tiller. The segment of a rotary power tiller consists of three rays (tine legs) placed at an angle of 120° in relation to each other. The beam length is given in the drawing as 100 mm, but if you use a stiff material for a mill, like a metal angle or a plate 5 mm thick or more, the length can be increased to 200-250 mm, especially if the mill is made for a large, heavy power tiller. There is no point in making longer legs. If you increase the length of the beam, you must accordingly increase all other dimensions of the rotary cutter drawing, multiplying them by the coefficient of increase, the value of which you get by dividing the new length by the old one. An important condition for easy and productive work of the rotary cutter is the location of the foot itself on the foot, namely an angle of 11° to the perpendicular of the beam of the cutter. This angle makes the resistance of the soil during the plunge cutter penetration to be as low as possible. This means the efficiency of a rotary cutter reaches the highest possible value and the power required to drive the cutter is reduced, i.e.е. the engine will run with less load (which is important for a two-stroke motor), and the single-axle tractor will not “bounce. The rotary tiller tines themselves for the power tiller in most cases are made triangular in shape (lancet tiller) and sharpened on an emery. Three-armed segment to be bolted or welded to the drive shaft of rotary cutter, which is made from a pipe with a diameter of 33 mm or more, with a wall thickness of at least 6-8 mm. Bolt on the beams of the cutter allows you to quickly make their repair and sharpen the goosefoot. Usually there are 8 segments on the shaft, 4 on each half axle with a spacing between them of 10 to 20 cm, depending on the length of the legs and the size of the feet
Block: 2/3 | Number of characters: 1893
How to make self-made milling cutters with your own hands
If the cutters are worn out or there is a need to modernize the cultivator, for example, to increase or decrease the depth and width of cultivation, they can be made by your own hands.
In many cases, such an improvement can improve the quality of tillage, perform the work faster.
The design of these parts is not complicated, so you can make them yourself.
The easiest way to design homemade gooseneck cutters for your power tiller with your own hands is to study the design of industrial cutters and make your own necessary changes.
Please note that when the cutter “goose feet” is made by your own hands, the drawings for different types of power tillers are developed individually.
Shown here is a classic design of a four-row mill.
- Hub. To make it, you will need a tube with a diameter of 50 mm and a wall thickness of at least 4 mm.
- Flange. Made of sheet steel 5-15mm thick. It can have a circle shape, but it is easier to make a square shape.
- Knife stand. Material. steel angle bar with 63×40 mm flanges. You can use automobile springs. It is not uncommon for the stand to be made of steel strip. This is the cheapest option, but also the most unreliable. The stand acts as a vertical planer during work.
- Left-most blade.
- Middle blade.
Blades are made of tool steel. Many craftsmen use automobile leaf springs for making blades. The shape of the knives can vary greatly. Their sharpening angle is usually 45°. The blades blunt during work, so they need to be resharpened from time to time.
With the help of welding machine blades are welded to columns, columns to flanges, flanges to hub. This is how a non-dismountable model is assembled. Some craftsmen prefer bolt connections. This design is less reliable, but allows for easy removal and replacement of the legs. The multi-piece power tiller is easy to keep clean of dirt and weeds that get caught in it.
One of the disadvantages of “goose feet” is that during work they are strongly sunk, and this is not always necessary. There is additional strain on the power tiller engine and operator fatigue. To reduce the penetration, the axle is fitted with stop wheels on both sides.
In this case, only the topsoil is tilled. This way of cultivation is very suitable for overgrown and soddy soils. After the first pass the sod is loosened. Then the wheels are removed and the next cultivation is done to the desired depth.
The burr is the cultivator’s main “organ. The first pass breaks up the turf after the first weeding. On mechanical models and on ultra-light and light-duty models, it is the only part of the tool that can be used. Medium and heavy machines also use trailed equipment.
Creating a goosefoot
This type of cultivator has been in widespread use since the mid-1980s. Their emergence occurred as a stage in the development of small mechanization, after which the cutter has shown its viability, as well as high efficiency. By design, such a variant is divided into certain elements, which can be created individually. Before you begin assembling it is recommended to study the finished products. This will give you the opportunity to become familiar with all the features of a particular type of work tool. As a result, it will be possible to make drawings of “goose feet” for a power tiller with their own hands.
After determining with the type of design of the future unit, it is required to prepare the necessary materials for the assembly. If there are certain shaped parts in the variant of interest, it is worth ordering their production from a specialist. With the ability to work with blacksmithing equipment, you can create on your own.
All other parts can be easily made by your own hands. In the process of assembling goosefoot tools, it is important to be careful about the installation of each element. There should be no deviations during installation,
That can cause the gooseneck to break the axle of the power tiller and cause it to roll to one side.
The creation of the soil cutter begins exactly with the drive sleeve. Due to the fact that this element will be constantly exposed to serious loads, it is made using a lathe. Thus, the wall thickness should be approximately 7-9 mm, and its inner hole should be cut accurately, to ensure free landing on the drive shaft. There must be no play at all. On the reverse side creates a hole, where the axial tube will be inserted, the depth of fit will be approximately 35 mm. This design element allows you to create a connection that is fully aligned with its axis.
In addition, a hole must be made into which a locating pin will be inserted.
This part can be made in a collapsible form or not. If it is necessary to change the number of knife blocks over time, it is recommended to give preference to variants that are disassembled. In the process of creating such a construction, it is necessary to mill the connecting bushings. Then they are half-pinned on the axle and fixed by welding or special rivets. The part of the element, which will protrude, allows you to connect another similar element.
How such a milling machine behaves in work is only determined by field tests. The result may not always be as desired.
After that, a flange is welded to the created axial tube, which is used for mounting the blade supports. This element can be made on a lathe or welded from sheet metal strips that are about 5 mm thick. A hole is drilled into it to make the future connection to the uprights.
Because of the high load, the elements must be fastened with rivets or bolts.
How long will be the tube determined by the location and width of the used blades. Their number also determines how many workpieces you need to make.
To make the blades for your power tiller it is important to use steel that is strong and at least 5 mm thick. The triangular shape of the cutting elements is optimal. This results in less resistance when penetrating into the ground. It is not uncommon to use cutting elements taken from a segment mower as such. But in this case you need to harden the knives before welding. Using models equipped with such cutting elements is recommended only on clean ground. Sturdier blades should be used for work on black earth or other hard soils.
The width of the blades should be between 50-90 mm. Too big versions create too much resistance and result in frequent breakage.
The part of the edge that touches the ground needs to be sharpened, and then make holes through which it will be mounted on the installed flange. At the end, the blades are welded to it, and afterwards they are hardened.
The last element is the connection of the resulting blocks of cutting elements directly by the drive sleeve. Here it is important to adhere clearly to the drawings to prevent material deterioration.
Pros and cons of rotors
The first information about active rotors, which successfully replace cutters for power tillers, appeared quite recently. In a short time, however, this attachment design has become popular for several reasons, including:
- leveling the surface of the plot (copes just as well as the daisy beam);
- loosening the top layer of soil (successfully replaces the cultivator tines);
- crushing large clumps of land into a fine structure (acts like a ring-roller);
- cutting with simultaneous shredding of tall grass, weeds, stubble (not inferior to disc harvester);
- Thorough mixing of crop residues with the soil (excels with cutters).
The design of the rotary harrow is quite complex and is shaped like a small barrel. Several discs (usually three) mounted on a hub, are connected to each other by curved in a helical line and sharpened on one side by knives. Thus, the knife edges in this case are not arranged in the traditional way, but flat to the soil surface.
The active rotor principle is easy to explain. Discs and cross plates crush large clods of earth into small pieces. In this case, the first knife slices the soil in layers, and the second one crushes this “slicing” and levels the ground.
Experts advise the use of a rotary harrow:
- exclusively together with the coulter bar so that the active rotors do not dig into the soft soil and do not “roll” on the surface of the heavy soil by “braking” the minitool;
- The active rotor is best suited to professional power tillers with hexagonal gear shafts and a special harrow lock;
- when choosing a tool, please pay attention to the rotary harrow dimensions (no less than 30 cm in diameter and no more than 70 cm long).
In general, it is an ideal implement for post-harvest and pre-sowing tillage, which can be combined with autumn sideratum plowing and spring application of natural fertilizers (eg, manure).
It is quite difficult to make an active rotor for a motor-block by yourself, because it requires an outstanding skill or expensive equipment to screw bending blades and then fixing cross plates on discs. In addition, “homemade”, as a rule, are not well-balanced. There is therefore a risk that the gearbox will be damaged by unbalanced implements.
Therefore, folk craftsmen in this case should stop at the modification of industrial samples or the motoblock itself. For example, some craftsmen manage to use rotary harrows on power tillers with round gearbox shafts. The owners of such mini machines wait until the input holes on the hub of the harrow are slightly broken and weld nuts to the holes, on which later fall the main load.
This material is made from forged steel, which is stronger and more resistant to corrosion, but does not prevent maintenance.
After finishing work, the tillers must be cleaned of earth, roots, wires and the like. You can use a rag or a brush, but you cannot use solvents as a cleaning agent.
Before long periods of storage the knives are coated with a layer of solidol and the shaft ends are covered with graphite grease.
About the elements
They are needed when cultivating the soil. Therefore, the quality of processing and the complexity of the procedure itself depend on the model: the load on the motor, ease of operation and labor.
A power tiller is usually included with the power tiller. But this may not be enough. Sometimes you need to increase the depth or width of cultivation, so the device can be complemented by other products. This solution also allows you to improve the process of moving the power tiller forward. And it increases the service life of the machine.
If the ground is clayey, then it is better to use two pairs of rotary cultivators. And even if the soil is light and has been tilled before, the additional elements won’t be a hindrance.
Changing the depth is possible due to the adjustable coulter. It is a strong element that is vertically mounted on the tiller hitch of the power tiller. The final tilling depth is influenced by the diameter of the tiller.
How to properly sharpen
If having weighed all the arguments for and against the sharpening of tillers, the meaning of this procedure has not lost its relevance, it is necessary to understand the way to perform the task.
The experience of supporters of sharp cutting surfaces of attachments of power tillers allows us to identify several key stages of operation:
- All attachment parts should be removed from the power tiller and disconnected. After that unscrew screws that fix cutting elements from the body.
- Clean all dirt from the intended sharpening points.
- With the help of a small diameter angle grinder, equipped with a grinding wheel make rough correction of the cutting elements by leveling the obvious irregularities of the metal. For the convenience of work an angle grinder should be used with a small diameter. The optimal choice would be 115 or 125 mm.
- Sharpen the blade directly at an angle of 450, trying to remove as little metal from the blade as possible. There’s no sense in aiming for perfect sharpness.
- Assemble all pieces of equipment and mount them on a single-axle tractor.
Please note that this procedure is only valid for reciprocating cutters. The principle of operation of devices such as “goose feet” and “virgin” is different from the variant under consideration. There is no need to sharpen them. Thus, by fundamentally deciding on the presence of the need for sharpening power tillers, the described procedure will help to maximize the comfort and efficiency of the working tool.