Elevator in a private house with their own hands: what you need to know and how to do everything yourself

Elevator. a fairly heavy structure, the area of its fixation is the load-bearing wall Planning to make a home elevator, you should understand that this is a heavy structure, which needs a solid, reliable support and foundation.

Making an elevator in the cellar with your own hands, you should follow these rules:

  • Follow the manufacturers instructions on the components that will be used in the assembly.
  • Arrange a strong foundation, designed for the weight of the frame, equipment, people and cargo, plus reserve of at least 30%.
  • Mount the rails are allowed only on concrete or brick walls with a thickness of two stones or more.
  • Have enough space to accommodate the cabin and platform. These are quite bulky constructions and require a lot of space.

One should foresee the possibility of loss of electricity or a sudden breakdown of one of the mechanisms. For such cases should be prepared portable or stationary ladder and a battery-powered light source. Another effective solution. a hand winch. Climbing and descending will be slower, but the elevator will remain functional.

Construction and materials for the stationary saw

Homemade circular saw with your own hands can be made by fixing the hand tool on a stable base. In the simplest version, the device is installed on wooden trestles or on a table assembled from plywood and boards. The tool is fastened underneath the plywood panel and a cut is made for the toothed disc in the table top.

Parameters of the design of the machine depend on the size of the processed material. The power of the hand tool is selected accordingly (800-1200 W or more). For a clean cut, it is better to install a model with a rotational speed of 3000-4000 rpm.

To make the machine will require wood materials, fasteners and tools:

Tools for making a homemade circular saw.

    Plywood with thickness of 20 mm;board for ribs and legs (50×100 mm);sandpaper, joinery glue and varnish;screws, self-tapping screws, screw clamps;tape measure, pencil, ruler;electric jigsaw, drill, electric screwdriver.

The table height is selected by master height and is usually about 1 m, the length of the table top depends on the size of the materials to be processed.

A few words about electronics

Circular saw. the electric equipment, which operates in the presence of a power supply of 220 V. If the user has sufficient knowledge and experience in electronics, he can bypass the start and stop buttons of the saw, and then put them in a convenient place (usually the outer side of one of the ribs).

If the scheme seems complicated, it is worth tying the starter button with a wire, and include equipment with a power cord. But this method is bad in that it eliminates the rapid disconnection of the tool in an emergency situation.

Manual device made of angle grinder

A lot of work is done with the popular “angle grinder” tool. From this tool will turn out an indispensable household circular saw, made with their own hands. It is sufficient to make a sliding stop of improvised material. The design involves two small pieces of angle bars, which are placed parallel to the disk. The connection is made using bolts, the gap is adjusted with shim washers.

The band clamp is installed so that the location of the screw is at the bottom. After that is attached a strip of metal with a hole, in another case, the construction can be single, but it will lose the thickness of the metal. The next step is the sawing of holes in the body, through which the handle is attached to perform basic work. The handle, made by hand, is a horn or bracket, based on a metal bar or pipe. It is also worth considering the riveting. if the ends are loose, it is possible for the handle to deflect during mechanical action on it.

Recommendations for simplifying the assembly process

To adjust the belt tension, the electric motor must be installed so that it can be moved. The easiest way to do this is to make the slots larger than the size required for the motor mounting bolts. In this case, the expansion of the holes should be carried out in the direction of the belt tension.

If you follow the drawing completely, you need to make a more complex belt tensioning mechanism. The process will be carried out by tightening the platform with an electric motor by means of studs and fixing it with locking bolts in the right position (in the drawing these constructive elements are marked with the number 10).

The entire construction and assembly process can be greatly simplified if you make a circular saw from a circular saw. In that case, there is no need to mount a number of parts (motor, disk, shaft, belt, starter). But the possibilities of the created model will be limited by the power of the tool used.

In any case it is necessary to ground the self-made circular saw. It is also recommended that a residual-current-operated circuit breaker or differential-current breaker be added to the switchboard. These measures will protect against electric shock if the body of the machine will be live, for example, due to a breakdown of insulation wires. Accessories for the electrical part of the circular machine is better to choose so that they are repairable and easy to maintain. Free access to the nodes of the equipment will help to replace faulty parts without problems.

Read also: Concrete grinding disc for angle grinder

How to make a circular saw by hand from a portable circular saw

If a person lives in a private home or has a cottage garden, the presence of a stationary circular saw in the arsenal of home masters is not only better, but sometimes it is necessary. Unfortunately, the price of industrially made benchmark such saw does not correspond to the frequency of its domestic use, but for some Russians simply not on the s. At the same time, it is quite easy to make a “circular saw” with their own hands, using the drive of a sewing machine or an ordinary electric drill. But the quality of the work and the nomenclature of the operations performed depend almost entirely on the bed of the circular saw.

Necessary tools

In addition to materials, tools should be prepared.

  • pencil and marker;
  • Tools for measuring, including a meter and a tape measure;
  • jigsaw;
  • hand router;
  • grinder;
  • sandpaper (should be of medium or fine grit);
  • planer and drill;
  • Electric screwdriver.

Prepare everything in advance and keep it handy throughout the process.

Safety requirements

One of the causes of injuries when working with a circular saw is cluttering of the workplace.

It is also important to monitor the stability, strength of all elements of the structure, and in case of imbalance. apply measures to correct problems.

Before turning on the saw, make sure that it is well anchored. If necessary. tighten screws/bolts.

It is strictly forbidden to hold the material close to the place of sawing! This can result in knots and chips bouncing into your eyes or onto exposed parts of your body. Be sure to wear glasses before working and long-sleeved clothing.

Making a table for the circular saw yourself is not as difficult a task as it may seem. If there is a good material at hand, its parameters are chosen correctly, and the power of the tool ranges from 500 to 1000 watts, the above instructions will be the basis of work.

Do not forget that at each stage of making the table you need to check the accuracy of your own actions. Otherwise, if there are dimensional deviations or deformation of the legs when you stiffen the ribs, it will be very difficult to restore stability. Nevertheless, making a table for a circular saw with their own hands is quite a real task for a couple of hours, which thousands of people have already coped with.

Making a circular saw

Preparation of blanks

It all starts with the fact that you need to saw blanks according to the specified dimensions.

  • Flat longitudinal elements are made of laminated chipboard, not of solid pine, as the other parts.
  • Two of the clamping plate blanks are made with “oblique” ends (63.5º, not 90º).

Thus, we get the following set of blanks.

Eccentric clamping

Proceed to make the eccentric clamp, which will rigidly fix the guide.

Two blanks, size 80×80 mm, we glue together.

Press down with a clamp and let the glue dry. So you get a workpiece like this.

Use a 22 mm pin drill to make a hole in the end face for a handle.

In the center of the workpiece you must make a blank (not through hole) 5 mm long.

This is best done by drilling, but you can also just nail.

In the circular saw, used for work, uses a homemade movable carriage of Laminated chipboard (or as an option, you can make a “hastily” a false table), which is not very sorry to deform or spoil. We hammer a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the head.

Thus, we got an improvised rotation axis of our part, called “eccentric” (although in this case, the stuffed hole is located strictly on the geometric center).

Then, putting the workpiece on the axle made of the nail, begin to grind away the corners and the excess material.

The result will be an even, cylindrical workpiece that needs to be machined with a belt or eccentric grinder.

Let’s make a handle. it is a cylinder with diameter of 22 mm and length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.

The transversal part of the guide

Let’s proceed to making the transversal part of the rail. This consists, as mentioned above, of the following parts:

  • The base of the transversal part;
  • The upper transversal clamping strip (with an oblique face);
  • Lower transverse clamping strip (with an oblique end);
  • End (fixing) bar of the cross part.

Upper transversal clamping strip

Both clamping plates, upper and lower, have one end, not straight 90º, but slanted (“oblique”) with an angle of 26.5º (63.5º to be exact). These are the angles we already observed when sawing the workpieces.

The upper cross clamping ledge is used to slide along the base and then clamp the rail against the lower cross clamping ledge. It is assembled from two blanks.

And additionally secured with self-tapping screws.

Lower Cross Clamping Strip

The lower cross clamping strip is firmly clamped to the base and serves to hold the guide rail against the upper cross clamping strip.

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