Angle.grinding machine

When the question arises, how to cut fiberglass reinforcement for the foundation (we already wrote more about the material itself here), builders primarily recall the corner grinder. This tool allows you to cut a large amount of material with qualitatively, quickly and with minimal effort.

The advantages of using an angle grinding machine include:

  • high speed of work;
  • With the help of corner grinder, you can immediately cut a bunch of rods;
  • Mechanized cutting does not require large muscle strength;
  • the possibility of using disks with any cutting edge (for metal or stone).

Before cutting fiberglass reinforcement with a corner grinder, you need to take into account the minuses of work with this tool:

  • cut fiberglass with a corner grinder without dust, it will not work. The high speed of the disk leads to the spraying of small particles of fiberglass in the air. Air vanity for cooling the tool of the tool contributes to the even greater spread of composite dust. Therefore, when working with an angle grinding machine, you need to use the means of protecting the eyes and respiratory organs, especially if you have to saw the reinforcement in the room;
  • For the operation of a corner grinder, you must have an electricity connection point.

Kryazuvka for metal

If only a few cuts have to be performed, you can use the usual hacksaw for metal.

The use of a manual tool gives the following advantages:

  • The metal hacksaw is found in every owner. This is the easiest and cheapest way to cut a small amount of rods for a bunch of reinforcing frame;
  • Lack of spraying small particles, as in the case of angular grinder.

Negative moments of the use of hacksaw for metal for cutting composite reinforcement:

  • low speed of work;
  • high load on the employee, if it is necessary to perform a large amount of work;
  • the possibility of use only in individual construction for small volumes of work.

A drip is often also called a cornice bar and an apron overhang, which, in fact, they are.

Let’s look at how these elements differ from each other:

The purpose of the cornice of the bar is the protection of the lower crate from moisture and the direction of water to the drainage gutter, which also flows from the waterproofing material. Usually it is selected depending on the type of drainage system and design idea.

Such a bar is also distinguished by configuration: either it goes to the standard form, or is originally made to the node of the cornice overhang.

Types of droppers and manufacturing materials

Daps for a modern roof are made today from thin metal on factory machines. So, for bitumen tiles, polymer sheet material is used from 0.35 to 0.5 mm thick. As a coating, they choose a matte polyester with a remote remote or an ordinary polyester with labeling re. The color of the dropper is selected according to the RR or RAL directory.

The dropper is suitable for all types of roofing materials, is available in a standard length of 2-3 meters and a thickness of 0.55 to 0.7 mm. In addition, when arranging a cornice overhang, sometimes two strips are sometimes laid at once, one of which removes water from the roofing, and the second from waterproofing. But with both of these tasks, an apron overhang is also perfectly coping. We are talking about rolled material made of copper, tin-cinker 0.2 mm thick or painted aluminum 0.3 mm thick.

The apron is more plastic and folding lines from the cornice bar, thanks to which it is easy to arrange any drainage angle. In addition, modern aprons are also available with a special strip, on which the waterproofing film is then glued.

But the cornice bar quite often acts as a dropper for many types of roof. Although the arrangement of the metal has their own characteristics, and professional builders advise to make such a pie:

Let’s take a closer look at how they equip a dropper for different roofs.

Types and types of roofing fences

You probably noticed that most often the edges of the flat roof are finished with metal profiles in the form of attic. This is necessary in order to effectively separate rain water from the walls, protect the roofing material from mechanical damage and provide the most reliable waterproofing parapet.

You will be interested in knowing that in Western countries the form of a parapet profile is not selected based on economic reasons or design ideas. everyone dictates the arches of the rules of construction work.

The profiles themselves for the parapet are supporting and unnecessary. If one is attached to special, resistant fasteners and brackets, these are supporting systems. The profile itself should be sufficient thickness, from 1.25 mm, and resistant to any wind.

But non.consuming profiles are attached to auxiliary and supporting structures. They are much thinner, from only 0.4 to 0.8 mm, are made of anti.corrosion metal, as well as from wood. The compensation bar is glued below the main profile.

The main requirement for the angles and joints of the parapet is water resistance. Therefore, the fasteners of the edges always mount the flush. And T AM, where the metal edging is glued to the edges of the roof, the width of the overlap should be from 120 mm, and all the compounds. waterproof.

If in the process of arranging the parapet you will have to install elements with a length of 3 meters, then additional designs will be needed.

In total, the thickness of the metal directly depends on the purpose of the parapet:

To solve the problem of any complexity of the company today they offer a large selection: parapets of various shapes, corners, decorative strips and special elements for fixing.

The main requirement for the parapet is that the edging should be located under the slope to the horizontal surface and equipped with the cornice.

Technical requirements and construction standards

With minimal or zero angle of inclination, the metal parapet is able to withstand increased atmospheric loads.

Modern parapets are made of copper, aluminum and titanium-cinker. Depending on the material of the manufacture, the method of connecting the profile is selected: riveting, double fold, welding and high- or low-temperature soldering.

For a copper profile, you need to install a cornice of 50 mm in size. Separately, we also note the titanium-zinc, for which there are its own installation rules: installation with a slope of at least 3 °, and up to 15 ° must be laid a dividing layer with a drainage function.

There are rarely in, but still there are wooden parapets. Naturally, on top of them it is also necessary to install the lid, but this time with an anti.condensate superdiffusa membrane. To do this, you need to install the strips on which the upper coating will be mounted. Next, part of the membrane is laid on the angle.

Now metal strips are also installed on the sides of the parapet, which will protect the tree. From a metal sheet (in this case, the titanium-zink is suitable) make the lid:

To combine the profiles of the parapet, you need a standing, double or lying fold, as well as layers-layers. Abroad, some rules for arranging the parapet recommend connecting the angles of the Attics with welding, or cut the angles of Attic from a single canvas, while others say that only the internal corners of the two parts are made of two parts. In a word, to some extent, we will also accept that option.

The main thing is only to take into account linear expansion and compression of the metal, because the parapet is in the open air, and most of all structures of the house is heated in the heat and rapidly loses the temperature in the frost.

Therefore, if you fix the roof parapet too hard, for example, using a standing fold, or directly place metal profiles on the edge of the roof, then the distortions of the material cannot be avoided.

That is why, if the technique of standing a fold is already used, you also need to use the applied butt planks and compensators:

How the parapet works

The parapet on a flat roof is an composite design of four elements:

  • The fencing side of brick, gas block or concrete itself.
  • Fingel. triangular in the cross section of the transition element between the horizontal surface of the roof and the vertical wall of the fence.
  • Parapet’s end protection is a metal visor or concrete, stone or ceramic plates that are placed on top of the parapet to protect it from precipitation.
  • Waterproofing apron. several layers of waterproofing, which are opened on the parapet for sealing the junction of the junction.

Sometimes parapets for flat roofs are supplied with an additional fence of steel or transparent material: tempered glass, polycarbonate. At the same time, the side itself, as a rule, is low, so this solution allows you to ensure the safety of people on the roof, without blocking the review from it.

If a children’s or sports ground is made on the roof, then the enclosing side is additionally closed with a high durable net. It is also called “catching”. It is needed both for holding balls and other equipment, and to prevent people falling.

What should be the height and thickness of the parapet

Parapet is considered a continuation of the wall of the house. Therefore, its thickness should be approximately the same. It is permissible to narrow the enclosing side relative to the wall under it, but it should be small.

As for the height, then, according to SP 17.13330.2017, the parapet of the operated roof should be 1.2 m high. With an unexplosable roof is more complicated.

From the point of view of fire safety, a non.combined fence at least 0.6 m high should have a non.combined roof. But it is about the fence, and not specifically about the parapet. That is, it can be either a whole side of brick, or just a railing from steel of such a height. But this is if the outer drainage system is on the roof.

If the drain is internal, then the parapet for a flat roof is always necessary to collect water. And its minimum height depends on the amount of precipitation and the calculated throughput of the water column system. Simply put, the height of the parapet should be sufficient so that even in the case of severe precipitation in combination with a storm wind, the water collected on the roof is not overflowing through the side. In this case, the minimum height of the parapet on the roof is usually 0.3-0.45 m.

About the appointment

Durable, flexible, light material gives the building an attractive appearance, protects against moisture, wind, heat from exposure to moisture. Allows you to realize even the most original ideas. In the catalog on the Met-Fasad website, a wide range of models is provided, from which you can choose the best option for cladding.

Composite materials can be used for external and interior decoration of the room. They improve sound insulation, reduce heat transfer, do not accumulate dust, dirt, moisture. At any moment you can easily and simply change the worn element without analyzing the entire structure.

Features of composite material

Slopes and parapets with facade cassettes are very popular and have a lot of advantages:

  • a long service life of 25 years or more, depending on the operating conditions;
  • Reliability, metal sheets easily make large loads, mechanical effects;
  • Reliability, metal sheets easily make large loads, mechanical effects;
  • resistance to climatic conditions, aggressive effects of chemicals, the appearance of defects, scratches, temperature “swing”, ultraviolette;
  • simplicity of installation and care;
  • environmental friendliness, human health and environment;
  • A wide range of colors.

Polymer-sand composite. Innovative material with unique properties

Polymer and sand products are, caps for fence and parapets on the flight of a fence, paving slabs, cottage tiles, borders, trays and drainage channels, this is a new generation material, which is a painted mass of a polymer-sand composite, which exceeds its properties in its properties All existing analogues.

All these components are mixed until smooth in the dry state, then loaded into a special melting apparatus. In a melting apparatus, at a temperature of 240 ° C, the polymer melts and the mixture turns into hot dough, which is then placed into industrial presses and, under a pressure of 100 tons, finished products are pressed.

Such composition and production technology allow you to receive finished products with unique technical and consumer properties.

Advantages of polymer-sand products

Such composition and production technology allow you to receive finished products with unique technical and consumer properties.

  • Service life 50 years. The long service life is due to the fact that the composition includes natural material. sand, which has an unlimited service life, and a polymer, which tends not to be destroyed for decades even under the influence of the most severe natural conditions.
  • High strength. Compared to cement-sand products. They do not beat during transportation, during installation and when exposed to shock loads. Hold high loads.
  • Wear resistance. Abrasion is 10 times lower than all the main analogues.
  • Substance. When laying and using, concrete dust is not formed, which simplifies styling and cleaning.
  • Resistance to aggressive environments. acids, oil products.
  • Shock resistance. Cracks, chips, dents during transportation, storage, installation and operation are not formed on the product.
  • Benzo resistance oil. Compared to cement products, they do not absorb oil and gasoline, there are no spots on the products.
  • High moisture resistance. Allows products from a polymer-sand composite to be not susceptible to sharp changes in the ambient temperatures from positive to negative.
  • Resistance to corrosion, fungi and mold.
  • Resistance to UV rays and atmospheric conditions (retains color). has a uniform color throughout the structure of the product, thanks to the addition of a light stabilizer.
  • Environmental friendliness. Does not emit toxic vapors.
  • The material is subject to 100% processing.
  • Multiple use, if it is necessary to carry out any repair work, polymer-sand products can be easily disassembled, the necessary work and lay down again.
  • The temperature resistance. Products can be operated in the Far North, at negative temperatures before.55 ° C.
  • Color resistance. The color of the product is unchanged throughout the entire life under any weather conditions and mechanical influences, the product has a uniform color along the entire structure of the material.
  • All products are checked annually for radiation, toxicological, biological safety.
  • Rain, hail does not cause strong and unpleasant sound.
  • Economy.
  • Ease. Polymer-sand products are two times easier than cement-sand analogues.

Cutting Boat Fiberglass. Flush Mounting a Chartplotter Part 2 of 2

The cap and parapet from the polymer-sand composite are characterized by an attractive appearance, has no seams, rivets, chips, sharp cutting edges. Easily mounted! For installation, you only need a ladder, the cap is simply put on a pole, without tools, mounts and solutions.

Tiles made of polymer-sand composite have a uniform color, has stiffeners, which allows you to hold the truck.

Products from PPK metal products from concrete products
Service life 50 years
High strength
Wear resistance
Resistance to aggressive environments
Shock resistance
Benzo resistance oil
High moisture resistance
Resistance to corrosion, fungi and mold
Resistance to UV rays
Environmental friendliness
The material is subject to 100% processing
Simplicity in installation, styling and cleaning
Reusable use
The temperature resistance
Color resistance
Lack of noise when precipitation in the form of rain and hail

Cutting composite reinforcement with a hacksaw for metal

Pros of cutting fiberglass reinforcement with a hacksaw for metal

The optimal combination we consider the presence and use of an angular grinder and bolt cutter. “Corner grinder” cut the main part of the volume, and trim the “tails” with a bolt cutter. (Of course, if there is electricity on the site).

How to cut a terrace board. Instruments for installation

Terrace board made of wood-polymer composite, bamboo, natural tree of exotic rocks is highly solid: cut it with ordinary larch drives, it will certainly work out, but the process may be a little tight. Ordinary, familiar to us, wood does not have such indicators of hardness and resistance.

How to Cut Carbon Fibre Sheet and Carbon Fiber Parts (Technique & Safety)

For successful decking, lag made of wood-polymer composite, cutting of composite steps and other products use the corresponding components for tools.

It is worth noting that the wood-polymer composite is processed mechanically approximately the same as the usual tree. It can be sawed (cut) to the desired length, drill holes in the canvas for installation. Some even manage to cut out of full wood-polymer composite boards unusual figures. But now it’s not about the masters of their craft.

To work with a terrace board and lags from a composite will suit you:

  • Disk saw for cutting PVC or wood stove,
  • Saws with canvases with small teeth,
  • Chardal disks,
  • Drill,
  • Chards drill drill,
  • Electric screwdriver,
  • Screwdriver,
  • Level,
  • A hammer,
  • Roulette,
  • Pencil or construction chalk.

Almost everyone who has already built a country house has all the above tools and is now engaged in the improvement of their site. As mentioned above, the most important thing is to choose suitable discs for cutting and drill.

At the beginning of installation work, you first need to cut the lags for the support structure. If you use lags from wood-polymer composite, as manufacturers recommend, all holes are drilled in advance. Mark the points where you need to make an mounting hole on the lag, use the drill. It is better not to use an electric screwdriver for this purpose, even if it is very powerful: there is a risk of overheating the device or completely break it.

Next, lay down and fix the lags, having previously checked the slope with the construction level. Do not forget that a terrace board, especially in open areas, should definitely be laid with a small slope-1-2 °. Excess moisture will drain from the terrace, and puddles do not form on the board.

Installation of a terrace board of wood-polymer composite is nothing complicated thanks to special mounts-clips. You will need an electric screwdriver to fix the clip with a self.tapping screw in the lag. Remember that the self.tapping screw is not screwed to the end: too tight the mount can adversely affect the “behavior” of clips and boards during thermal expansion. But the mount should not hang out either, otherwise the boards will swing.

Sometimes a full-shaped terrace board of wood-polymer composite, bamboo or Ipe is mounted directly to the lags of self-tapping screws. In order to facilitate this process, professional installers make holes in the boards and lags in advance. There is one small trick here: holes should be made a little less in diameter than the diameter of the screw. This is how the fastening density is not disturbed, and the installation process is faster.

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