In previous publications, we started a conversation about the specifics of the acquisition and subsequent operation of sawmills, ribbon-leading machines for the production of chanters and ribbon-saw machines for furniture enterprises. We dwelled in detail on the consideration of the classic method in which the teeth are sharpened by a sharpening circle. And reflected two factors that affect the quality of sharpening. Technical and instrumental. The third factor, the last in the list, but the main thing in fact, is the human factor.

When choosing a person to work by a sharpener, pay first of all attention to his character. Hot, explosive, trying to make everything quickly a person will never become a good sharpener. Here you need a calm, attentive, reckless, responsible person who is able to do a long time to monotonous work. But even this is not enough. Good sharpeners are obtained only from those who can literally feel the saw and only by rumor to configure a hiding machine. No wonder the people say that a good sharpener should be born. And indeed it is. Since it is simply impossible to mechanically sharpen the strip saw in this way for the above and below reasons is almost impossible.

Now we will show what exactly it is necessary to do the sharpener in the process of work.

The sharpening process must be started with the inspection of the machine:

  • It is necessary to check the alignment of the sharpening circle and the plane of the strip saw so that they are strictly perpendicular. Otherwise, the tooth will sharpen the bevel to the side.
  • Put a hubby circle to the desired angle in relation to the plane of the saw, that is, set the front angle of the tooth along the limits of your machine. Since these limbers never correspond to reality, setting the saw, check the corporator received the real angle. If he does not suit you, slightly change the installation of the corner to the required side. Pot the saw again and check the resulting angle. And so until you get the necessary angle. It is advisable to do this with great hardness, so that during the installation the circle does not lose its shape. Otherwise you will have to rule it and thereby knock down preliminary installations. After you got the required angle on the saw, take a note on the machine. It will then come in handy with new reinstates to other angles.
  • All moving parts should have minimal backlash, and it is better that they are not completely, otherwise they will be accelerated by the profile of teeth and a hiding circle.
  • The cooling fluid should be supplied in such a way that the entire hidden tooth is washed, otherwise the part of the tooth will necessarily be used where the fluid will not get.
  • The hollow circle must be installed the desired size and sufficient hardness so that its profile does not change at least one full pass, otherwise the saw will have a different tooth profile along the entire length.
  • During sharpening, it is impossible to change the adjustment of the sharpening circle until the full passage is protected, otherwise a different profile will turn out to be a different profile and the circle will either burn the profile or pass without touching it without touching it.

Settings of the sharpening circle are made by two screws:

After preparing the sharpening circle, install the strip saw and, scrolling the circle with your hand or at a minimum feed, check how accurately it goes through the profile. If necessary, discover the circle again.

After the end of the work, it is necessary to clean the mud, metal sawdust and rust mechanism of the saw clip, a pan for coolant; check the fluid level and, if necessary, add it; Wipe the whole machine.

The main reason for the incorrect sharpening of the strip saw is the loss of the sharpening circle of its shape.

If the technical problem can be solved using the high-quality manufacture of the machine itself (for example, the Vollmer company produces very good machines), if the instrumental problem can somehow be solved by the proper selection of a sharpening circle, then the problem of forming the profile of the sharpening circle cannot be well solved even theoretically.

Only very experienced sharpeners or people with an inner instinct can come close to understanding and the most accurate execution of the profiling of the end of the sharpening circle. I will explain this by example. Spend a horizontal fishing line for a trimmer on a sheet of paper. Now, from this line to the right side, draw two vertical lines to the eye: one at an angle of 10 °, and the second after 3 mm at an angle of 40 °. Now connect the left fishing line for a trimmer with a horizontal straight line through a radius of 1.5 mm, and the right fishing line for a trimmer is through a radius of 1-2 mm. Do this several times and check with the help of the transporter that you did. For clarity, you can combine these sheets. Keep in mind that the discrepancy between the data is only 0.5 ° already leads to inaccurate protrusion of the profile. And inaccurate connection of the left straight line also leads to a change in the pile of the saw. Now imagine that the sharpener should do all this not on paper, but on a rotating circle, where to withstand exactly the size is even more difficult. But it is not enough to form it once. It is necessary that when repeated sharpening after sawing, the profile of the end of the circle is exactly the same as with previous sharpening, which is almost impossible. Therefore, it is not so important what quality you are sharpening around. Even if you have a very good circle and you can stand them without additional interchange of tape saws for a whole shift, you can almost never repeat exactly the same profile of the end of the circle in the following sharpening, which means that you will not be able to accurately set the profile of the teeth of the saw after her dullness. Now you understand why the exact formation of the end of the circle profile is not just a difficult, but an extremely difficult task. In order to somehow facilitate its decision, you can sharpen with bakelite reinforced circles with a thickness of 3-4 mm. But they are difficult to find the desired quality of manufacture.

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Therefore, the profile of the circle must be monitored very carefully. Otherwise, this leads to the following changes in the body of the strip saw:

  • A change in the radius at the base of the tooth, which entails a change in the step and the impossibility of the next passage of the normal sharpening of the saw. The circle begins to unevenly crash into the front line, without touching the rear, or vice versa, that is, it becomes impossible to grind a full saw profile at once. For two or three passes, the sharpener has been trying to pave at least the cutting edges of the teeth, while a microhorb or microvpadin occurs at the place of transition, which lead to microcracks, and also do not remove when sawing microcracks, which leads to premature gap of the saw over the body.
  • Changing the angle of sharpening, tooth heights, shallow shapes that affect the productivity of sawmills and the quality of the resulting lumber.

Types of stripping ribbon saws

Like any other tool, the strip saw is worn after each cutting cycle. This is a natural and inevitable process. That is why each drain type saw needs regular and qualified maintenance. Wiring and sharpening. Such maintenance allows not only to maintain a cutting canvas in working condition, but also to significantly increase its life.

Increase the service life of the cutting canvas and significantly improve its functionality allows the correct wiring. The meaning of this operation is as follows: the cutting teeth of the saw bend in different directions, which allows reducing the friction force during cutting, as well as minimize the risk of closing the canvas with a processed part. Warring the strip saw can be performed according to three schemes, the choice of which depends on the type of material processed.

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  • With the so.Called cleaning type of wiring, the teeth are bent in such a way that every third of them remains untouched. Such a scheme is used if the cutting canvas is used for the cut of particularly solid metals and alloys.
  • The classic type of wiring involves an alternate extension of each cutting tooth.
  • With wavy wiring, each cutting tooth is bent to a certain angle. It is clear that this type of wiring is the most difficult of all others.

To bend the teeth of the strip saw, special equipment is used to perform such a technological operation quickly and as accurately as possible. According to generally accepted standards, the maximum wiring of the teeth should not exceed 0.7 mm, but usually its value is in the range of 0.3–0.6 mm

It is important not only to choose the type of wiring, focusing on the characteristics of the material that has to be sawed, but also to perform it correctly, bending the teeth only by 1/3 or 2/3 of their heights

After wiring, you can send a cutting canvas to a machine for sharpening tape saws. As statistics show, tape saws most often lose their functionality due to the fact that their sharpening was done incorrectly or untimely. The indicator that the strip saw needs wiring and further sharpening on the machine, is increased roughness of the surface of the saw. The need for such a procedure can also be determined by the appearance of cutting teeth.

The main elements of any sharpening machines are circles, the choice of which, first of all, depends on the hardness of the material used for the manufacture of cutting teeth. In order to sharpen hard materials, it is necessary to use the corresponding circles. So, for sharpening with bimetal.Type paintings, sharpeners consisting of borazon or diamond elements are chosen, and to put the saw made of instrumental steels in order, corundum circles are quite suitable.

Tools for sharpening the ribbon.Type saws are chosen both in composition and in constructive performance. For different in design and the size of paintings in machines, circles of the following types can be used:

A set of Wood-Mizer devices for sharpening and wiring tape saws

According to the instructions, when sharpening a strip saw on the machine, you should monitor compliance with the following requirements.

  • There should not be burrs on the surface of the tooth when sharpening it.
  • The torching circle should remove the same layer of metal throughout the tooth profile.
  • In order to avoid overheating of the teeth, when they turn them on the machine, a special liquid should be used for cooling.
  • When sharpening, the profile and height of the processed teeth should not change.
  • Must be monitored by the pressure that the circle of the sharpening machine for the tooth is provided. If you neglect this requirement, the pressure can be too significant, which can lead to annealing of teeth.
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Sharpening of a tape type with his own hands has some features. In such cases, as a rule, the back surface of the teeth is sharpened, although if you use the manufacturer’s instructions or watch a thematic video, you can sharpen their front surface.

Selection and configuration of equipment

The person responsible for the quality of the saw (operator or, possibly, a technologist on a large production site) is obliged to choose the right saw and set the speed of sawing wood. The following settings are selected depending on the type of material:

  • Experienced regulators know that the cutting speed should be slightly less than the limit. The quality of the material at the output depends on the speed: too much value will lead to a “wavy” surface, and if low, there are protrusions;
  • The following parameters must be tensioning the tape. This must be taken into account in the passport characteristics of the car. On average, the machine has a pressure of 170 bar, but if there is no belt tension sensor, it must be installed, so you will significantly save on the quality and cost of tapes;
  • The protrusion of the tape above the pulley is from 0 to 3 mm;
  • Do not forget about the exhibition of pulleys parallel to each other;
  • The rollers should be lowered by a centimeter below the pulleys and ensure the parallelism of the tape.

This setting should be performed once a day. If you regulate pollen less often, for example, every 7 days, the installation time itself will increase, and the quality of the material will decrease. After contact of wood with a support roller, it is better to check the machine adjustment twice.

Types of strip saws

Ribbon saws can be divided into the following to see:

Tough strip saws, unlike a knife blade, they produce a closed loop. They are used for cutting and cutting various materials, including foam concrete, metal structures, wood and other materials.

Eryentle ribbon saws and electric spark saws are similar to circular saws. The only difference is to prescribe teeth.

When choosing a strip saw for metal, it is necessary to pay attention to the design features of the strip saw. Read how to configure idle on a chainsaw

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The main purpose of the metal saw for metal is the implementation of corner, straight and curved areas. If you need to cut at an angle, you need to purchase special rotating sponges on this machine.

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The easiest answer is to get a maximum from your workpiece. For example, instead of stricting a board with a thickness of 25 mm up to 10 mm, its dissolution will allow you to get two of the same size from one board. As an additional advantage, each of these boards will have almost the same fiber pattern, which will allow them to be launched on the cladding of furniture (photo on the right). And if you dissolve 2 5. A millimeter board made of woodwood on sheets of veneer with a thickness of 3 mm, this will allow you to get even more.

It is not always possible to predict how symmetrical in the drawing will be sawn panels. In principle, any drawing of wood fibers has a potential for creating a beautiful pattern, but the choice of a workpiece with a particularly interesting pattern often brings the best results. See what was hidden inside the plainboard, which I used to check the adjustment of the strip saw.

Note. The dissolution is called the wood cut along the fibers, parallel to the plate.

For the first time I saw a closet with a symmetrical pattern on the doors in the museum, at an exhibition of furniture of the XVII.XVIII centuries. Having examined these almost identical panels with a mirror pattern of fibers, I was struck by them. In those days, in my small basement workshop there was an old ribbon saw Craftsman. Its canvas of the type “Unified size for all work” made it possible to make acceptable curved cuts, but it was not at all suitable for dissolving lumber along the fibers accurately, which I planned to do now. And, frankly, for accurate and stable work, that saw needed not only in the new canvas. Subsequently, I learned a lot of lessons on how to handle any strip saw. For its literacy, first of all, you need to install the table strictly perpendicular to the saw canvas, get the maximum return from the guides and make sure of the right direction of the cut.

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Take a canvas with a more aggressive car. A blade with three teeth per inch and large recesses between them removes sawdust better, which can cause bending and twisting the cutting canvas. Keep the workpiece tightly pressed to the guide and to the table. A special pusher transfers the necessary squeezing effort to the guide and allows the hands to be at a safe distance from the canvas when it was dissolved.

After the strip saw is well tuned, you need to pay special attention to the saw tape. Slinging wide boards requires a canvas, which evenly passes throughout the thickness of the workpiece, while removing a large number of sawdust. The wider the blade, the more it drank, so try to use the widest canvases that are suitable for your saw.

Install the square at a distance of 6 mm from the saw blade (to put it, you may need to raise the protective casing) and press your finger to the middle of the blade. From the average pressure of pressure, the blade should touch the square. In this photo, the saw canvas is too much shifted back on the upper drive wheel: therefore, the cut deviates to the guide. If the canvas is too much shifted to the front edge of the wheel, this leads to the opposite result.

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Most tape saws work at least with 12 mm canvases, and many with even wider. As a rule, a wide canvas with three teeth per inch length (3 tpi) offers an ideal combination of aggressive, but smooth sawing with an active removal of sawdust, which is required when the tree was allowed. Finally, let’s talk about the guides. The cutting for the saw should exceed the height of the guide by no more than twice. So, for example, a 100-mm guide is suitable for racing boards with a width of 200 mm. If you need a lot of height, use home.Made additional guides.

Characteristics and properties of a strip saw

The main properties and characteristics of the saw is:

It is generally accepted that the models of tape saw with a pulley:

Light tape saws are equipped with an electric motor up to 2 kW, medium and heavy electric motors up to 4 kW.

Types of cutting blades

When cutting a saw to the tape, special requirements are imposed.

Carbon steel sheets were widely used. In accordance with their heat treatment, the tape can be divided into the following types:

The canvases with the same hardness in width work well on the pulleys of the middle diameter. The hardness of Rockwell paintings is 47 units.

Saws with a flexible blade and solid teeth have a specific structure. Only the upper half of the tooth will harden, leaving the saw blade flexible. The hardness of the pile of the saw canvas on the Rockwell is 31., Tooth hardness. 64.

Saws with a hardened blade on the width are the most popular. The hardness of the Rockwell blade is 52 units, and the hardness of the tooth is 67 units.

The principle of operation of the strip saw

Before starting to perform the working task, you need to check and if necessary adjust the work of the machine. In addition, the settings check should be carried out after each interaction of the saw support rollers with the log housing.

The position of the saw relative to the bed depends on the guide rollers of the installation. The correct assembly can be checked using a special adjusting line. On the surface of the rollers, it is impossible to leave the remnants of machining, which can cause unwanted vibrations. The parties to the rollers should not represent the characteristic dangers that may arise if they do not rotate during the operation of the sawmill.

When installing tape sawmills, three very important stages are distinguished.

  • Checking bearings. When replacing them, you should check the condition of the mounting brackets in the video housing in order to make sure their integrity. If there is damage, then it is better to completely replace this part.
  • When adjusting, it is necessary to check the fastening of the axis of the video in the housing. This means that you need to make sure that all the studs holding the part are correctly screwed. If play is found, the case must be replaced. It should be noted that the joints between the guide carriage and the wheel of the wheel are often damaged by cutting. Therefore, the position of the wheels cannot be adjusted for sure. Sometimes the correction of bending with the dismantling of the clip case helps. But can lead to damage to the welding place. Then you need to replace the damaged part with a new. The same with stilettos.
  • Do not forget to adjust the guide wheels. This is necessary to provide the same pressure on the saw when moving a movable video from one extreme point to another. Its guide is obliged to move in a plane parallel to the bed. If such an action is not done, the stiffness of the file may change during changes in the width of the cut, creating the so.Called “wave”.

How to configure the location of the blade on the wheels:

The driven wheel when installing the saw must be shifted to the right, that is, to the leading pulley. The installation of the canvas of the strip saw should be such that the cavities between the teeth of the saw protrude at a distance of three to four millimeters per vertical plane of the edges of the pulleys.

adjust, strip, instructions, tape

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Then the tension of the canvas is made using a screw jack that creates pressure in the hydraulic cylinder and moves a lever with a pulley with respect to the horizontal. The testimony of the pressure gauge is 80-100 kg/cm. The position of the driven and the drive wheels is configured in the factory. And as a result of which it should not be tuned without the need. Wheels in a vertical plane are also installed in the factory.

1) create pressure; 2) manually scroll through the pulleys along which the saw ribbon moves. Make sure that the saw is exactly the pulleys. For a saw 30 mm wide, the interval between the pulley and the tooth of the tooth should be 3 mm.

How to install a saw blade in a horizontal plane:

This is carried out using adjustable rollers.

Ribbon saw on wood. Rating

In the carpentry workshops, such an instrument was widely used. The choice of a wood ribbon on wood is best made based on the rating of the best units that allow saving time with high performance and reliability presented below.

    Jet JBS-12. The wood ribbon saw is designed to work with wide boards and a beam, copes well with voluminous blanks, powerful and productive, has a stable metal bed that does not vibrate when working.

adjust, strip, instructions, tape

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