How to remove the chuck from a screwdriver and replace it with a new one

The need to hang a shelf or hang a picture forces the home craftsman to buy the appropriate tool. We are talking about a drill. Of course, no apartment today can do without it (especially if we’re talking about a reinforced concrete house). Trying to hammer a dowel into concrete with just a hammer is idiotic. However, the average person is not even aware of what technical aspects need to be considered when choosing a drill. Further, this ignorance can lead to certain difficulties with the restoration of workability in case of the tool failure.

Makita drills and screwdrivers have proven themselves in the Russian market exclusively from the positive side. First, they have an affordable price. Secondly, in any major city you can always find a service center that will help in qualitative and fast repair. It should be noted that failure of the above equipment in the vast majority of cases is due to incorrect operation.

Types of chucks on Makita drills

Globally, chucks can be divided into two classes:

change, chuck, makita, drill

If we talk specifically about universal, utilitarian models of drills, in the vast majority of cases, a quick-clamp chuck is used. It has a number of advantages.

For example, to change the bit does not require the use of a special wrench. Everything happens in semi-automatic mode. Of course, when the bits (bits on the drill) have to be replaced frequently (during repair work at home, for example), it is recommended to use this kind of chuck.

A cam-type chuck for the drill chuck means the bit is held tighter. It is clamped with a special wrench. It is always delivered with your power drill. time is needed to change the bit (loosen the chuck, change the bit, tighten the chuck).

What it is?

The bit holder serves as the seat, holding the main working element of the drill or rotary tool. It can be not only a drill, but also a concrete drill for tools with an impact function, a special attachment in the form of a cross or flat screwdriver. There are special bits for your drill designed for grinding, deburring and cleaning different surfaces. They are mounted on a rounded or polygonal prong, which is also inserted into the chuck.

Drill chucks differ in design and method of installation on the tool and are divided into three types:

Tapered chuck

Invented as early as 1864 by the American engineer Stephen Morse, who also developed and proposed the use of a twist drill. The peculiarity of such a chuck is that the clamping of the working element is due to the mating of the two shaft surfaces and a separate part with a landing hole. Shaft surfaces and drill hole have equal taper dimensions, with angles ranging from 1°25’43” to 1°30’26”.

The angle is adjusted by turning the base of the mechanism, depending on the thickness of the element to be installed.

Toothed-ring design

A more common type of chuck on hand-held power tools for home use. The principle of such a chuck is simple. at the end of the pin coming out of the drill is threaded, and the chuck is screwed on it like a nut.

The drill bit is held in the chuck by three tapered flutes in the center of the chuck in the collet. When a collet nut is turned with a special wrench, the blades come together and clamp the shank of the drill bit or other work item such as a mixer whisk, screwdriver bit, impact chisel, tap.

Quick-action chuck

It is considered the most convenient option. This is the latest technological modification of this device by time of invention. It is used in almost all modern models of well-known drill manufacturers.

The cutting or other workpiece is also held in place by special flutes, only no wrench is needed to clamp them. Locking blades are clamped by hand. by turning an adjusting sleeve, which is corrugated for ease of scrolling.

Types of fastening

Fastening is done with the help:

The first fastener was named after S. А. Morse in the 19th century. Locking is achieved by ensuring that the tapered surfaces of the shaft and cone meet through the identical taper of the bore. The fastener is widely used because of its simplicity and reliability.

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In the second type of connection, the thread is threaded on the shaft and the chuck. Alignment is achieved by twisting the chuck onto the shaft.

The third type is a modification of the threaded fastener. for security, the connection is fixed with a screw. It basically has a Phillips-head screwdriver and a left-hand thread. The screw can only be seen when the cams are fully opened.

Fastener definition

The fastening of the chuck is determined by visual inspection. Morse taper is marked as follows: 1-6 B22. The first digits are the diameter of the shank of the nozzle used, and B22 is the actual size of the cone.

The threaded connection is also designated by numbers and letters, for example: 1.0. 11 M12×1.25. The first part of the marking means again the diameter of the shank of the used nozzle, the second part means the metric value of the thread. In imported electric screwdrivers the value is given in inches.

Drill chuck: how to change, disassemble, unscrew

An electric drill is an indispensable tool attribute of both the home handyman and the professional. Without this tool it is difficult to perform any works related to the production of anything, as well as assembly, disassembly, and so on.

Breakdown of a drill, even of a famous brand, after all, sometime, yes happens. One of the most widespread breakages of this power tool is a chuck failure: either key-operated or self-clamping.

Causes of Drill Chuck Replacement

Sooner or later any part, assembly or any mechanism becomes worthless.

In modern drills, such as Makita, Interskol, Bosch and so on, the drill and other cutting tools, as well as all kinds of attachments are attached by a cam-type device.

The cam mechanism consists of 3 or 4 cams that hold the tool in the drill chuck.

If quick-action device, tighten the mechanism by hand, if key-action device, use special key.

There are also collet devices, but they are more applicable in production for metalworking. The various tools needed for the work are clamped in them.

  • Run-out during rotation. This indicates wear of the cams or the front bearings of the shaft.
  • Turning on the shaft. Cause of thread damage if the chuck is a threaded one or tool cone wear.

Run-out is a harmful and unsafe phenomenon, it can be described as follows

  • The cutting tool in the drill is not holding up well or some of the accessories.
  • Drill bits jam (if taper is worn).
  • The holes are irregularly shaped.
  • Drill bits’ shanks get worn out.

How to remove the chuck from an electric drill

The chuck can be attached to the spindle as follows:

  • Tapered mount. When using Morse taper (tool taper). In this case the shaft is made in the form of a cone, it is well ground and requires minimum force to fit it. An example of marking: B10, where B is a cone symbol and number 10 is diameter of the cutting tool shank. Such locking is used more often in screwdrivers.
  • Thread attachment. There are metric and inch threads. If M13 is stamped on the chuck body, the thread here is metric, 13 mm. If it’s an inch. UNF indicating ½ inch diameter.

However, in order to provide 100% safety to the user, manufacturers of imported drills also fix a chuck with a screw, which serves as a stopper and securely fixes it to the shaft.

The screw has a left-hand thread, and very often, when the drill is repaired by inexperienced people, the slot on the screwdriver screw is torn off by ignorance, believing that there is a standard right-hand thread. so unscrew it clockwise.

If you know the constructional features of your own drill, removing the chuck is not a big problem.

In order to change this element you need to prepare the following tools:

  • Pipe wrench
  • A medium sized hammer. Approximately 400-500 grams.
  • Wrenches.
  • Caliper. 2 or 3.
  • A screwdriver with the right shape and cross-section of the blade.
  • Personal or velvet file.
  • Sandpaper.

This list shows the minimum set of tools. It is very possible that something extra will be needed during the work.

The connection is threaded

The procedure for disassembly:

  • Unscrew the grub screw counterclockwise.
  • Unscrew the chuck in the same direction. If there are grooves on the shaft. use a wrench for fixation.
  • If the drill is jammed, you should tap the cams from top to bottom with precise and light hammer blows.
  • Install the device in the reverse order.

After fixing the part of the tool where the jaws are located with a pipe wrench (gas wrench). turn the shaft. The chuck should unscrew easily after such “insistent” intervention.

Joining with a tool taper: Dismantling step by step

This disassembly can be done with a hammer and nonferrous mallet: brass, bronze, aluminum, copper. However, hammers of this type can still be found.

Soft metal will not cause damage to the tool in the form of dents and deformations.

See also  How to remove a quick-change chuck from a drill

It is necessary to perform the following steps:

  • Hold the drill with the crank upwards.
  • Delicately tap the backside of the chuck all around its circumference with a hammer.
  • After the device is dismantled, you must grind the cone with a fine sandpaper. Large dents, if any, can be removed using a file.
  • Insert the new cartridge into its original location and hit it with a wooden hammer (mallet).

For old drills that were made during the Soviet era, another method can be used. In them, on the shaft, there is quite a big gap between the tool body and the chuck, and there are flats on the shaft.

Locksmiths, as a rule, did the following:

Of course, the method is not the safest, given that the key can fly off on an unplanned locksmith trajectory and cause injury. There is also a variety of drills, where the body has a slot in which a wedge is inserted to knock out the chuck. Such drills can have two tapers: one in the chuck and one in the drill. These tools are impressive in size and weight.

Drills with a taper are considered more precise in responsible drilling, because the Morse taper is made with a high degree of accuracy.

In addition, the conical chuck can be removed with a puller, because every such drill, which does not even have a threaded hole for the locking screw, has a through hole.

And if you use a puller with a central stud and set it in this hole, then secured her mating part of that has hooks in the form of powerful hooks can also remove the firmly attached cartridge.

They are used to remove, for example, bearings.

Replacement in an Interskol drill

The Interskol drill is very handy and has an ergonomic handle. Low price is also a common reason why customers choose it.

How to disassemble the chuck of an electric screwdriver

You need to remove the cover to get inside. It is easy to remove the plastic housing. it is enough to pry it up with a sharp object. On the iron one, you tap it with a hammer. To do this, tap on the base of the clamping sleeve, being careful not to break it. To get to it, between the cams they put a bolt with a large cross section, then slide them so that the bolt stood perpendicular to the base, but could freely move up and down. The head protruding from the surface is smashed with a hammer.

READ How to Attach a Chain to a Makita Power Saw

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How to Disassemble the Chuck of a Makita Electric Screwdriver

Repairing the chuck and other parts of a Makita electric screwdriver

Here will be considered an electric screwdriver from a well-known brand “Makita”, will describe its technical properties and the general device, will tell about the main dilemmas and defects that arise during the use of the tool, in addition, how to diagnose a breakdown at home and repair this or that element of an electric screwdriver.

Description, general information

produces a variety of power tools, among which are considered screwdrivers. The company began its history in the twentieth century, and now it continues to amuse consumers with its products of quality work. It is necessary to consider the general features and properties of the models of this company.

Makita screwdrivers are characterized by great power. The average speed for different models is about 2300 rpm, which is a good indicator compared to other brands. The weight of most models of tools is in the time of 1.5 kg. Its low weight means that such tools will be comfortable to work with. The manufacturer has also taken care of the convenience of working in poorly lit rooms, making the majority of models backlit by LEDs. Separately worth highlighting the type of handle to keep the weight of these tools. You, they are made rubberized, for this reason they are comfortable to hold in the brush, respectively, the work process is much easier.

The disadvantage of these screwdrivers is a powerful vibration of the handle during operation, in addition to their short-lived batteries. Today, the cost of production of this company is quite high, which is important for the Russian consumer.

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Diagram, construction of a Makita electric screwdriver

Let’s have a look at the device of an electric screwdriver on a particular model 6271D. The diagram of this model is shown in the figure below.

Layout 1

  • Switching lever
  • Body assembly
  • Nameplate
  • Screw
  • Spring
  • Reverse lever
  • Start button
  • Contact terminal
  • Screw
  • Quick-action chuck
  • Gearbox assembly
  • The electric motor
  • Screw
  • Body assembly
  • Charging assembly
  • Battery

A modern electric screwdriver is a super technological device. Principle elements of construction:

  • Removable battery
  • Rubberized handle
  • Powerful electric motor
  • Iron planetary gearbox
  • Soft Start Button
  • Reversing switch button
  • Torque regulator

READ How to Disassemble a Makita 14 4 Electric Screwdriver Battery

These are the main components of the construction of an electric screwdriver, which are included in the basic equipment of any model of electric screwdriver.

Dismantling of a Makita electric screwdriver

To disassemble an electric screwdriver for you will need a Phillips screwdriver and little personal time. To disassemble an electric screwdriver one hundred percent, you need:

  • unscrew the screws fixing the housing;
  • Remove the compound mechanism of the start button;
  • Remove the electric motor together with the gearbox;
  • Disconnect the gearbox from the motor by unscrewing the screws that fasten them together.

To disassemble the battery of an electric screwdriver you need to unscrew the bolts that connect the housing, or split the housing joints on a glue base using a soldering iron. Inside the battery are several nickel-cadmium batteries that have a certain capacity and carry the charge. For which the battery repair design requires replacing them with new.

Chuck change on the Makita 6271d

GEKO G00521 2-13mm 1/2-20UNFMakita 6271d 12v NiCa.

Disassembling the quick-action chuck

The song Fig Leaf Times Two is by Kevin MacLeod. License: Creative Commons Attribution.

The chuck is changed with a screwdriver and an Allen wrench. At first, you unscrew the screwdriver in the chuck by turning it clockwise. Then the hexagon is inserted, the reversing button is engaged, clamped and then the chuck simply succumbs.

Malfunctions of a Makita electric screwdriver

frequent breakdowns of a Makita electric screwdriver are as follows:

  • Electric screwdriver doesn’t turn on. Here and so what remains for our customer to do is clear. First of all need to look around the battery, but also the contacts and connections in the case, wiring. A multimeter will help you perform the test.
  • The reverse button does not work. This means that you can not either tighten or unscrew the self-tapping screws and bolts. Here you need to check the resistance of the button with a multimeter by placing probes on the input and output wires of the button.
  • Speed controller does not work. Here the speed is either constantly low or constantly high. There may be the fault of the regulating transistor or brushes. It is necessary to visually inspect the parts.

READ Remodeling a 14 4 Volt Electric Screwdriver Battery

Makita Electric Screwdriver Button Repair

The on/off button of the tool is a complex electrical mechanism. It consists of several parts that make it up:

Performing a repair button first need to disassemble it, unscrewing the screws fixing

the housing and disconnecting the battery. You need to check the connections and contacts for contaminants and clean them. If cleaning the contacts does not solve the problem, the button should be replaced as a complete unit.

Repair of the battery charger of a Makita electric screwdriver

Performing repair battery charger to unscrew the screws that fasten the cover housing. Inside is an integrated circuit with contacts. First you need to check the transformer with a tester. For this purpose you need to measure the voltage at the output. Later, it is necessary to ring the cable to rule out its fracture. Then check the primary and secondary of the transformer and the fuse. Reassemble it in the reverse order.

Repairing the battery of a Makita electric screwdriver

When repairing the battery, use a Phillips screwdriver to loosen the housing screws

Removing a cartridge with a Morse taper

In this case you need a punch and hammer. As a puller you can use U-shaped puller with wedge-shaped legs. It should be set so that the taper axis passes between the legs, and then gently hammer it between the chuck and the drill. The puller should push the chuck out of the cone when it comes in.

Here is a picture of three-jaw chucks of different types and Morse tapers of different sizes.

change, chuck, makita, drill

A wrench or any other device that allows you to act on the chuck in the axial direction can be used as a puller.

It is worth noting that all cartridge removals, especially those with Morse taper should be done with extreme care. Since excessive haste can cause damage to the body of the drill or injury.

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