How to put a disk on a benzotrimer

At first, before filling the fishing line for the trimmer to the coil of the trimmer for the grass, you need to extract it from there. Coil or tip. This is a device that is located in a snot of a braid head, bobbin or drum. The heads are of various types (depending on the manufacturers), but the principle of substitution of the fishing line on the coil in everyone is monotonous. First, we will figure out how to remove the head from the tool, as well as how to get a drum with a fishing line from it.

Annotation, how to promote a hand head on a trimmer, has a subsequent look:

  • Turn the tool with the head to the top, and by Merei’s need cleanse it. Take 2 fingers of one hand for the lock locks (on a mowing head), which are placed symmetrically to each other. After a light cloth in the inside, dismantle the protective cover from the drum
  • Then the reel for the fishing line should be removed from the rampart of the drum. It is planted on a shaft without fasteners, therefore it is dismantled by one hand
  • The main part of the drum is fixed using a screw, which must be turned off with a screwdriver with a suitable tip or a bat
  • For twisting, you need to hold the base of the drum with one hand, and the 2nd is removed with a screwdriver against the direction of the clockwise
  • Then you can proceed to dismantle. To do this, you do not need to pull it with all your strength, but swaying a little to the sides, slowly remove it from the hook with the iron shaft on which the drum is planted
  • When reinforced installation, the head should be planted in a tetrahedral slot

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This process is not difficult, and as you realize, it is not necessary to dismantle the entire head if you understand how the substitution is produced. When dismantling, consider the following aspects:

  • At times it is recommended to remove the head to prevent corrosion of the threaded connection. If you never unscrew the screw, then it will be difficult to do as you need to do it and even sometimes unrealistic
  • If the screw has a tetrahedral boring of the head, then for twisting you should select a screwdriver or bit of a suitable size to exclude the licking of the faces on the head
  • When assembling the installation, you should treat the threaded place of planting with lubricants, for example, solidol or machine oil
  • If the edges on the screw are licked, then for its unscruptions you can use special clamping forceps
  • There are drums that do not require preparatory disassembly. To dismantle them, you should take up it, and twist in the opposite direction the direction of the clockwise

change, disk, features, disks

Knowing how to disassemble the drum, you should continue to clarify the process of substitution of the trimmer fishing line for grass. Below is a detailed process on how to open a trimmer coil for grass and disassemble it.

How to convert a disk into GPT without data loss?

The transition from MBR to GPT (and vice versa) you can be implemented using the Diskpart command line.

  • Press the Win R key on the keyboard to open the command line and run it as an administrator
  • Enter List Disk and click “Enter”
  • Enter “choose a disk” and click “Enter”.

How to change a disk on a corner grinder? Step-by-step instruction

To work with the corner grinder, you must first install, and after that, if necessary, change the disk on the corner grinder.

Often with this simple procedure, some beginners and not only beginners can arise of various difficulties.

Below is a detailed instructions for replacing a disk with a corner grinding machine.

To change the disk on the corner grinding, it is necessary to unscrew the fastener.

The fasteners, as a rule, goes with special grooves, and you can unscrew it only by the corresponding key, which is usually included in each corner grinder.

NOTE:

On some corner grinder, ordinary nuts are installed as fasteners, which can be unscrewed with an open key.

To unscrew the fasteners in its grooves, you need to install the angular grinder key.

On the other side of the corner grinder, press the stop button to fix the rotor in a stationary state.

Next, you need to turn the key against the watch arrows.

So the fasteners are unscrewed, then the old disc changes to the new.

change, disk, features, disks

After installing the new disk, first the fastener is twisted with the hands, and in the end it is tightened with a key.

After all the manipulations described above, the corner grinder is “charged” with a new disk and you can start work.

In the case when there is no special key, to remove the disk and replace it with a new one, you can use improvised means, namely, use a large screwdriver or its analogue, for example, a dumb chisel or t.P.

The essence is the next, set the end of the screwdriver in the groove for a special key in the direction of unscrewing, we also fix the lock so that the disk does not spin, and with sharp, not very strong but sufficient force by blows on the back of the screwdriver, we unscrew the disk. Read the details in the article “How to unscrew the mounting nut on a corner grinding grinder without a key?””.

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All about the draft of the wheels.Part3. Drive2

Features of the fittings of the wheel discs must comply with the recommendations of the manufacturer. What to do if the PCD 1004 car, but I really liked the disc with PCD 984? Experts recommend refusing such a purchase.But why, because it is impossible to visually determine the difference? The discrepancy will certainly show itself.After the full tightening of one of the bolts, the other holes go a little to the side.Of course, the bolts can somehow be wound, but due to incomplete landing on the hub of high-quality puff you can not dream (we will consider some exits from the situation below).

Remember that the installation of a disk with various cleansing is dangerous. First a light beating appears. It may seem insignificant, but over time, this leads to the destruction of the steering mechanism and suspension of the vehicle.

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It may be even worse-due to poorly broach, the wheel is unscrewed during the movement and then the accident cannot be avoided.Features of vasomatic motorists are interested in the question of what kind of wheel discs of domestic vehicles in vases.Here PCD is standard. 498. But such a draft can be distinguished one big minus. There is no space for the flight of imagination and the possibility of choosing a more unique disk.At the same time, “next door” is the PCD standard. 4100, where the choice of disks is much wider. So is it possible to take a chance with a replacement? As we have already mentioned, with standard tightening methods, this is unacceptable, because even a small error will not allow you to tighten the screws efficiently.There are motorists who are at a certain risk. They use screws of larger length or one of them do not twist at all. But this is dangerous. Such methods can lead to serious consequences (including accidents).

To install 4100 wheels on VAZ cars, you can use special bolts with a displaced center or eccentric (they are easy to find in automobile stores or on the Internet).

In addition, stilettos from VAZ 2108 type of GBC are often used often.

The peculiarity of the installation is that screwing the stiles is carried out directly into the hub, and the disk is packed with other nuts (you can “borrow” from the VAZ 2121).

Another option is to pull the holes in the hub. In this case, it will be possible to put discs with various PCDs. 4100 or 498.

The outfitting of the wheels’ wheels is an important parameter that should be taken into account when choosing. Remember that any discrepancy of PCD and installation errors are primarily a big risk to your life.

So, in an effort to decorate your car, weigh the pros and cons. Maybe it is worth abandoning dangerous changes in favor of another type of tuning.

Changing the cleavage of hubs by 5100. Fiat Linea, 1.4 l., 2010 on Drive2

In general, the car has long been on wheels. So. It was necessary to change the draft, as I purchased the wheels R16/5100 and I plan R17 for the summer. Give 5-6r. There is no joy for the disk in the native draft. And I will not. The choice is also not great, even new. And in the lifting of 5100, full of beautiful b.U. Discs at a sane price. Therefore, I decided to drown out the existing holes with bolts, brew one of the holes, since it has a new hole but with a 1 mm displacement on it, and to inhale new. At first, I wanted to make metal rims on the hubs for reliability and put them on hot with an interference. But then, having measured everything, I decided that it makes no sense. The thickness of the metal remains 2 mm. Before the hub in the thinnest place. And the hole does not work on a fracture, but only in an interference, since the disk rests on the hub with a landing hole. Over, the holes are now five against four. And even with a hypothetical breakthrough of the thinnest place, which is impossible (with such an effort you can tear the wheel), the bolt holds on the entire volume of the hole. There were no problems with the rear hubs. Placed the hub in the water, leaving only one hole outside and brewed it with wire. Also with the second. But with the front ones I was waiting for me. The hub was not the same thickness, but with the refinement of the metal between the holes, to save metal. I had to weld the electrode to align the thickness of the hub, because the new holes come to these places and the thickness of the metal for the thread should be at least 10mm, and it was 5mm. After that, he cut off the old internal bushings from the bearings, saturated the bolts slightly poked their threads, so that he would wrap it tightly and give it to a groove. But the turner soared my brain for two weeks, without doing anything. I agreed with the boss to allow me to do it myself. He allowed a normal man. Together with his father’s friend, they did everything in four hours. He sharpened, I drilled holes on the coordinate-string. Then they cut the thread. The front hubs when hobby led a little, the dozens of 3-4 sharpened to cleanliness. Their thickness is clean 11mm. Also inhabited the brake discs. Everything turned out great. Then he carefully disassembled the rear hubs, pulled out seals, bushings, separators and balls. He was folding in order, so as not to confuse the impressive and external bushings, he washed well, filled a new grease bought earlier for this earlier. I collected everything and put the wheels.Conclusion. Everything is fine. But you can do it differently and more serious. In the future, he will not need anything else to sharpen. On the ass, one in one size is suitable for hubs from Volkswagen Semedan, but you need to sharpen the axis for 28mm, to plant a hub. Linea has 30. And this hub has a hole of 14mm, and not 12 like ours. You also need to put a shorter Vagen ABS sensor with the transfer of the hole closer to the axis, since the magnetic ring is located across the rotation axis on the Wagenovskaya hub, and we have along. But there is a plus. The Vagen sensor costs only 400r. Yes, and there is a little thing there. Only you need to check for identifying this sensor with fiat brains, but I think it is perfectly identified, since there are also 96 magnetic poles on the Vagen magnetic ring. But in the future he took off the old ones, put new ones. For the front ones, they are redone from Mitsu Galant, they are perfect for alterations in size for alteration. At the slotted hole, the difference in the deameter is 4 dozens in the most way, which is not at all significant, the teeth are also 25. Lifting 4/144.3, places for new holes are full. Groove, drilling. New hubs. Good luck to all.

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In general, the car has long been on wheels. So. It was necessary to change the draft, as I purchased the wheels R16/5100 and I plan R17 for the summer. Give 5-6r. There is no joy for the disk in the native draft. And I will not. The choice is also not great, even new. And in the lifting of 5100, full of beautiful b.U. Discs at a sane price. Therefore, I decided to drown out the existing holes with bolts, brew one of the holes, since it has a new hole but with a 1 mm displacement on it, and to inhale new. At first, I wanted to make metal rims on the hubs for reliability and put them on hot with an interference. But then, having measured everything, I decided that it makes no sense. The thickness of the metal remains 2 mm. Before the hub in the thinnest place. And the hole does not work on a fracture, but only in an interference, since the disk rests on the hub with a landing hole. Over, the holes are now five against four. And even with a hypothetical breakthrough of the thinnest place, which is impossible (with such an effort you can tear the wheel), the bolt holds on the entire volume of the hole. There were no problems with the rear hubs. Placed the hub in the water, leaving only one hole outside and brewed it with wire. Also with the second. But with the front ones I was waiting for me. The hub was not the same thickness, but with the refinement of the metal between the holes, to save metal. I had to weld the electrode to align the thickness of the hub, because the new holes come to these places and the thickness of the metal for the thread should be at least 10mm, and it was 5mm. After that, he cut off the old internal bushings from the bearings, saturated the bolts slightly poked their threads, so that he would wrap it tightly and give it to a groove. But the turner soared my brain for two weeks, without doing anything. I agreed with the boss to allow me to do it myself. He allowed a normal man. Together with his father’s friend, they did everything in four hours. He sharpened, I drilled holes on the coordinate-string. Then they cut the thread. The front hubs when hobby led a little, the dozens of 3-4 sharpened to cleanliness. Their thickness is clean 11mm. Also inhabited the brake discs. Everything turned out great. Then he carefully disassembled the rear hubs, pulled out seals, bushings, separators and balls. He was folding in order, so as not to confuse the impressive and external bushings, he washed well, filled a new grease bought earlier for this earlier. I collected everything and put the wheels.Conclusion. Everything is fine. But you can do it differently and more serious. In the future, he will not need anything else to sharpen. On the ass, one in one size is suitable for hubs from Volkswagen Semedan, but you need to sharpen the axis for 28mm, to plant a hub. Linea has 30. And this hub has a hole of 14mm, and not 12 like ours. You also need to put a shorter Vagen ABS sensor with the transfer of the hole closer to the axis, since the magnetic ring is located across the rotation axis on the Wagenovskaya hub, and we have along. But there is a plus. The Vagen sensor costs only 400r. Yes, and there is a little thing there. Only you need to check for identifying this sensor with fiat brains, but I think it is perfectly identified, since there are also 96 magnetic poles on the Vagen magnetic ring. But in the future he took off the old ones, put new ones. For the front ones, they are redone from Mitsu Galant, they are perfect for alterations in size for alteration. At the slotted hole, the difference in the deameter is 4 dozens in the most way, which is not at all significant, the teeth are also 25. Lifting 4/144.3, places for new holes are full. Groove, drilling. New hubs. Good luck to all.

The timing of the weeding of potatoes

Potato seedlings, as a rule, appear after 2-2.5 weeks, at the same time, the appearance of weeds on the site can be observed already 5-6 days after the potato is planted. Therefore, weeding should be carried out since that time. For the first weeding on the site with a smooth landing, it is better to use, nevertheless, a plug or flat cutters, since the ranks are still poorly visible and there is a risk that a trimmer for grass or a harrow will cut the potato sprouts that have not yet been broken to the surface. If the potato settled with a mechanized method with cutting the rowing of the beds, for weeding you can use trimmers for grass and motoblocks. After the first weeding, its further frequency is set independently, based on the growth rate of weeds. On average, the frequency is once every two weeks. Когда кусты картофеля окрепнут и станут такими, что между ними будет невозможно ходить, прополка не требуется.

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Having sorted out the design of the cutting knives, it remains to find out the process of replacing them and installation on the tool. If there is a head with a fishing line on a gas station, and it is planned to install a metal disk, then no remodeling of the structure will be needed.

To install a metal disk on a trimmer for grass, the following instructions must be followed:

  • First, a plastic protective casing is removed. It is not necessary. Depending on the model of the tool, the dismantling process may differ. If the trimmer has a metal casing, then it is not necessary to remove it. Removing a plastic casing is performed in order to install a metal
  • Using a special key-player or screwdriver, it is necessary to block the gearbox. The shaft blocking hole can be located on the side or on the end side
  • A mowing head or spool is twisted from the tool if they are installed

A disk is installed in the place of the head or spray. The internal diameter of the disk should be in a special groove. The nozzle is installed so that the front side (with letters) looks upward

As you can see, the procedure for replacing the disk on the trimmer is not at all difficult, and takes no more than 5 minutes in time. Below the video shows how to properly change the mowing heads and circles on benzocoses.

Where abrasive grinding circles are useful

Discs that can be used in the operation of a corner grinding machine are listed universal, so they can be used for processing in fact at least some surface. Thanks to these discs, you can cut, tear, clean and grind various products.

Types of abrasive discs can be divided into 2 groups:

Grinding circles include products that remove rust, help to tear, polish, polish, clean the part. In order to cut various materials, use exceptional cutting discs.

Disk toothed knife in what cases is used

Metal toothed discs have the shape of a circle, on the basis of which the corresponding number of teeth are located. These teeth are of different types, shapes and sizes. The more teeth, the more effective the tool copes with thick grass and even small trees. Milling circles for trimmers are gaining momentum faster, which is their advantage. They also have a high moment of inertia, which is their disadvantage. This negatively affects the drive device of the tool, as the starting power increases, and as a result, the motor overheats with frequent stops. In addition, the equipment differs in the presence and absence of penetration.

  • Oeinated circles with holes and a large number of teeth up to 40 teeth. Effectively cope with mowing thick, high and small, coarse grass and shrubs. The larger the number of teeth, the less grass is crushed. On circles with a large number of teeth, grass is not wound. Disks with teeth in the amount of 60-80 pieces are designed for mowing grass with small trees available in the territory, the thickness of the stems of which does not exceed 7 cm
  • Continuous. Disks that have no holes in the design. They have a large weight, so put them on lawn mowers with an engine volume up to 30 cm3, are categorically not recommended. The tool simply cannot stretch the heavy cutting element. Compared to the oenicized, they weigh 1.5-2 times more. Effectively cope with thick and rare grass. The smaller the number of knives, the stronger the grass is crushed, and the load on the motor increases. The load on the gearbox also depends on the angle of sharpening of the teeth

If the operator is faced with the task of pricing thick grass and dryness, then it is recommended to choose disks with penetration and a large number of teeth. Continuous discs are suitable for dying green grass of different densities, but they are used exclusively on powerful benzocoses with a motor volume of more than 40 cm3.

It is interesting!Milling wheels with a winning attack allows you to mow grass next to existing obstacles. For mowing grass on hay, it is recommended to use steel with a large number of teeth. Flat sharpening of teeth on such knives allows you to effectively cut off grass. For cutting thick.Stem plants (raspberries, ragweed), continuous discs with the number of knives 16, 24 and 32 are used, as well as oral to any number of teeth.

Criteria and conclusions about the correctness of the selection of cord or which line to choose a fishing line for a trimmer for a trimmer for grass

If you are going to harvest hay or mow meal grass for cattle, then you will need not only a gasoline trimmer for grass, also metal disks. The heads with a fishing line for such purposes are not suitable, since they are designed for the following purposes:

Depending on the type of work planned for the performance, it is necessary to choose a tool and fishing line for a trimmer to it. For haircuts of young, low and thin.Set grass, a round shape is used, and if you are going to deal with thickets in the country, then it is better to use a string of an angular type. A square or in the form of a star.

If when using an electric trimmer for the grass is heard the sound of rustling a round fishing line, then when the benzocosa is not afraid of such noise. To reduce noise, you need to buy a fishing line for a trimmer with turns. The nylon string is a square or hexagonal form can cope with thick.Stubble vegetation, like a raspberry, ragweed and other weeds. If a round ordinary string costs inexpensively, then models of different shapes will cost a little more. The most expensive cords are two.Component, which consist of several materials.

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