Self-replacing the crankshaft oil seal: 3 instructions for replacing front and rear oil seals

Tidy under-hood space speaks not only about the car owner’s love for cleanliness, but also about the fact that all systems and units work consistently and without failures. The appearance of oil stains on the cylinder block or other places is an important signal that the replacement of the crankshaft oil seal is required.

This event usually occurs before the declared hundred thousand km of the car’s mileage guarantee by the manufacturer. The novice car owners may be frightened by this turn of events, but the problem is solved quite quickly. The work can be done by yourself in almost any garage.

Husqvarna automotive-grade top model

The Husqvarna 128 R is popular among home users for working small areas. It has the following main technical characteristics:

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  • Two-stroke two-stroke gasoline unit with a working volume of 28 cm3;
  • engine power 0.8 kW or 1.1 hp;
  • 0.4 liter fuel tank with 507 liters per hour;
  • straight nonremovable rod with diameter of 24 mm;
  • T-type handle of bicycle type with details of engine control, increased ergonomics;
  • availability of anti-vibration system;
  • Cutting system consists of a 2.4 mm wide blade and a four-blade metal blade;
  • cutting width of 25.5 cm blade and up to 40 cm of fishing line;
  • overall dimensions 286 × 244 × 1829 mm;
  • weight 5.0 kg.

The Husqvarna 128 R multi-purpose gasoline-powered machine is designed for easy and productive garden and lawn care, with quick and easy change of cutting elements. Safe operation is ensured by a safety guard. This prevents accidental contact with cutting parts.

The Husqvarna 128 R has been designed with the latest E-TESN 2 technology to reduce exhaust emissions. It has no effect on engine power, but it is more environmentally friendly with lower emissions.

Ergonomic handle and good grip with optimal tilt angle and anti-vibration system. This allows you to work long hours with your Husqvarna gasoline pump without fatigue or discomfort.

Checking the chainsaw‘s major systems

If the chainsaw refuses to operate properly, you need to make sure that all the conditions required for it to work properly are met:

Then you need to check all of its components one after the other. Check fuel tank first. If the cause is not in the volume and quality of the fuel, the probable causes of the malfunction may be the spark plugs. The play in the spark plugs must not exceed 0.5 millimeters. If it is too small, it means that soot has settled on the spark plugs. In that case, take the spark plugs out, clean them, then put them back in and try to start the chainsaw. It is also recommended to replace the spark plugs completely with new ones from time to time, even if they are in good condition.

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Then you need to check the condition of the fuel filter and carburetor. Self-Cleaning Fuel Filter. A simple task, but it is better to leave the repair of the carburetor to the experts.

Replacement of the crankshaft oil seal on VAZ 2110 16 valves

To remove and replace the front crankshaft oil seal VAZ 2110 (16kl), you will need the same standard set of tools. All actions are also similar to the procedure for replacing the oil seal on an 8-valve engine. So, the algorithm for removing the front oil seal from the crankshaft looks as follows:

change, crankshaft, seal, chainsaw
  • Removing the timing belt.
  • Removing the alternator belt.
  • Remove the front right wheel and if necessary the underliner.
  • Unscrew the crankshaft pulleys and remove them.
  • Replace the oil seal and assemble in the reverse order.

If you change the front oil seal, it makes sense to change the rear one as well. And if you do it at the same time, you will save time, because the components are replaced from one place with the removal of the wheel and possibly the fender.

The chain saw starts and stops. the cause

If the chainsaw starts and goes out on the first try, the cause may be a problem with the chain brake or jamming due to lack of oil. In this case, the oil level is measured. If the amount of oil is sufficient, the cause may be a tube that leads it to the lubrication mechanism.

Another reason could be a carburetor malfunction. If it only needs to be adjusted, you can do it yourself according to the instructions. If the carburetor needs to be cleaned or repaired, you can not do without the help of professionals.

Low fuel level in the tank is another possible cause of this fault. In this case, the chainsaw stalls when you tilt it because the rest of the fuel mixture is in the part of the tank that is in front of the suction tube.

Disassemble the gearbox to check and replace the lubricant and wear particles

To do this, disconnect the casing from the gearbox and the rod with the shaft inside. Remove the spindle and wash the pinion assembly, to make it easier to disassemble. Unscrew the plug bolt, but it can be left in place, t. к. it does not carry any force.

Then remove the drive pinion from the housing. To do this, use a special puller to remove the retaining ring from the ring slot, which holds the pinion assembly in the right position in the housing.

Since the bearings are mounted with their outer rings in the seats with an interference fit, it is not easy to remove them. To make this task easier, let’s heat up the gear housing in the bearing area with a construction hair dryer.

Once the housing metal heats up, it will expand and the interference will disappear. Now you can easily remove the helical drive pinion assembly with two identical paired bearings from the housing.

Proceed with removing idler block with spindle from gearbox housing. Here first remove the centering bush with a pair of pliers with narrow jaws, then the oil seal by prying it out with a screwdriver or other suitable tools.

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As in the first case, pull out the retaining part by squeezing it with a circlip puller using the holes in the lock.

Heat up the gearbox housing in the pinion bearing location with a hairdryer and pull it out after a while by pulling the spindle slightly.

The consequences of a leaking stuffing box packing

There are two oil seals on the crankshaft. one on the front end and one on the rear end. Both of these are a unique nuisance. The timing belt is right next to the front oil seal. if it gets caught in oil, it can be easily torn in service. Near the rear oil seal is the clutch, if oil gets on it, the clutch will lose its friction properties. But in both cases, oil loss and a dirty engine is inevitable.

The front crankshaft oil seal is leaking

If it has been recently replaced, it is very likely that it was installed incorrectly, namely, the inner lip of the rubber band was bent, through which it leaked. In this case only to be replaced, because the oil seal is already ruined, even though it is new.

In some cases it can be wrongly diagnosed as a leaky oil seal. the oil pump gasket can be leaking, they are next to each other and the oil is leaking from the same side. The crankcase will always be dirty with these leaks, because any dust sticks to the oil and stays on the surface, not draining anywhere.

The worst problem can be a broken timing belt. A lot of engines have bent valves. The consequence will be an expensive repair. replacement of timing belt, cylinder-head gasket, replacement of valves with their subsequent lapping, cylinder-head surface grinding (and the surface in 99% of cases will be uneven, what will affect the reliability). The pistons will also be damaged, since they are in contact with the valves and get damaged against them. But the pistons are not afraid of small deformations and even superficial depressions. they move as if nothing had happened. But there are cases when the piston pierces through the valve. then it needs to be replaced, and it is almost a major overhaul. you also have to change all the liners around, and the crankcase gasket is the same.

So, let’s calculate the cost of replacing the valve packing:

If the belt breaks and the valves get bent, then you add it up:

  • Replacing valves
  • Valve lapping
  • Milling the plane of the cylinder head
  • Replace cylinder-head and valve cover gaskets
  • Manifold gaskets (maybe the fasteners break on the exhaust)
  • Replace the valve caps (since you’re going to the valves, it’s a good idea to change them)
  • Filling up coolant and engine oil
  • On a good note, you also need to change the cylinder-head bolts as well
  • Replacing the piston and rings (if you can find a place that sells one piston at a time, there are usually kits)
  • Crank pin liners need to be replaced
  • Sump gasket
change, crankshaft, seal, chainsaw

That’s it, there’s hardly any parts left in that engine. And now calculate the cost of parts and work on the restoration of the engine, taking into account the cost of parts for your car, and think about whether it is worth it to drive with a dirty engine, unless, of course, you have a chain drive.

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Rear crankshaft packing leaked

The rear oil seal won’t be such a problem, but the rear oil seal itself is a problem, because to change it you have to remove the gearbox, clutch and flywheel, and that’s a full day’s work. But when you get to the oil seal, it’s no problem to change it.

If the rear packing is leaking, it could be one big problem. it will flood the clutch disc with oil and it will lose its frictional properties, the car will drive like a worn clutch disc. you give it some gas, and it won’t do a thing. You will not get all the oil in the oil seal, but it does leak quite a lot.

How to clean and store the tool?

While the lawn mower is in operation, check the condition of the engine cooling system. The channels in the starter housing and the cylinder fins must always be clean. If you ignore this requirement and continue to operate the brushcutter, it is possible to put the engine out of operation due to overheating.

The correct care of a petrol mower during operation enables its use for several seasons in a row without serious repair

Allow the engine to cool down before cleaning. Take a soft bristle brush and wipe off the dirt on the outside surface. Plastic parts can be cleaned with solvents including kerosene or special detergents.

After the summer season is over, the lawnmower should be prepared for an extended period of storage. To do this, the fuel mixture is drained from the tank. Then the engine is started in order to burn off the residual fuel in the carburettor. The complete machine is thoroughly cleaned and put into “winter sleep.

As you can see, it is quite possible to carry out the repair of malfunctions of a household lawnmower on your own. It is necessary to apply in case of serious breakages. Compare the repair costs with the price of a new lawnmower. It may make more sense to buy a new tool.

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