Ways to unscrew screws, bolts or screws with flared heads

A vehicle has many parts joined together by screws, bolts, and screws. Quite often there are situations when a bolt head or slot on a screw or screw is slipped off. This is why the question of how to unscrew a screw or a bolt with flattened edges is relevant for many car enthusiasts.

Teasing is the blurring of a screw or screwdriver face on the head of a screw, bolt, or self-tapping screw. Both master and beginner can encounter such a problem. When a screw is slipped, the wrench slips on it and you can’t unscrew it. Screws and screws can have damaged splines on the head, which also causes the screwdriver to twist and you can’t unscrew the damaged fastener.

Reasons why the splines of a screw, a screw, or the edges of a bolt or nut can slip:

If a screwdriver or wrench slips while unscrewing, do not panic and try to find out the reason. Sometimes it is enough to change a screwdriver or wrench and the problem is solved immediately.

Slugged bolt

Reasons why you can’t unscrew a stuck nut (bolt)

There are several reasons why it may be difficult or impossible to disassemble this simple connection:

  • Deformation of threads or connection parts, e.g. by a violent shock;
  • screwing in not by thread with significant force. in this case, there is a significant increase in friction between the surfaces of the parts (the effect can be exacerbated by the influence of external factors);
  • oxidation of the surfaces of the connection parts, formation of a rust layer on them;
  • Diffusion of materials between the parts of the connection.

The last two reasons are familiar to almost everyone, especially to car owners.

The problem is that studs, bolts and nuts are most often made of carbon steel. In the event of prolonged contact with water and oxygen in the air, as wheel bolts for example are permanently exposed to it, these substances penetrate into the smallest of gaps, even between the parts of the threaded joint. As a result, the iron is oxidized, a layer of rust is formed, which increases friction. It takes a lot of force to get the parts out of the way (often it is greater than the strength of the bolt and it breaks).

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Designers try to prevent such mishaps by using parts with protective coatings or made of stainless steel for connections. But even this does not always work. If the bolt and nut are subjected to heat (e.g. parts on an exhaust silencer), the protective coatings can be damaged and the corrosion process can accelerate.

There is also a process of diffusion (mutual penetration) of materials, the parts form a monolith, which becomes difficult to disassemble (this phenomenon is often faced by those who are trying to unscrew the bolt on the crankshaft).

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Reasons why a stuck nut (bolt) can not be unscrewed

There are several reasons why it may be difficult or even impossible to disassemble this simple connection:

  • Deformation of the thread or parts of the connection, e.g. by a violent shock;
  • screwing in not by thread with the application of significant force. in this case there is a significant increase of friction between the surfaces of the parts (the effect can be exacerbated by external factors);
  • oxidation of the surfaces of the parts of the connection, the formation of a layer of rust on them;
  • diffusion of materials between the parts of the connection.

The last two reasons are familiar to almost everyone, especially to motorists.

The problem is that studs, bolts and nuts are most often made of carbon steel. In case of prolonged contact with water and oxygen in the air (wheel bolts, for instance, are permanently exposed to such influence) these substances penetrate into the smallest gaps, including those between the parts of the threaded joint. The result is that the iron oxidizes, a layer of rust forms, which increases friction. It takes an enormous amount of force to move parts out of place (often more than the strength of a bolt, and it collapses).

Designers try to prevent such nuisances by using parts with protective coatings or made of stainless steel for joints. But even this does not always work. If the bolt and nut are subjected to thermal stress (an example would be parts on a silencer), the protective coatings can be broken and the corrosion process is accelerated.

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There is also a process of diffusion (mutual penetration) of materials, the parts form a monolith, which becomes difficult to disassemble (this phenomenon is often encountered by those who are trying to unscrew the bolt on the crankshaft).

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Self-tapping screws with ripped splines (star)

If over-hardened self-tapping screws have been unscrewed/screwed a couple of times, their edges lose their sharpness, the screwdriver gets through, but the screw itself stays in place. If it is “sitting” in wood, plaster, chipboard or other similar, not too tough materials, you can put a thin rubber band under the screwdriver (eg for hair). Through the force of elasticity achieve a tighter fit to the remaining edges, which helps move the screwdriver out of place. The other methods are more “traumatic”:

    Cut grooves inside the “plucked” funnel, using a flathead screwdriver, unscrew. This method is quite dangerous: if the walls of the “funnel” are too thin, there is a chance that the screw head will simply crumble from the effort. Only the screw will remain and there is no way to remove it.

That’s a hard screw to unscrew

Screw out the self-tapping screw (crosshead)

Remaining bolt or stud without a cap can be unscrewed as follows: cut the left thread in the remaining body, drop glue “torque”, screw in the left tap, leave for an hour. Drop oil on the main thread and also leave for an hour. When the glue has set, unscrew. If there are screw remnants stuck in the wood, it is easier to seal the hole and install another fastener nearby.

gas torch

The next step in dealing with a sour joint is to use a torch to heat the bolt. This method is based on the physical phenomenon of metal expanding when heated. This will break down the rust as the heated nut or bolt expands.

This method can be done with a small propane torch. Heat the threaded joint, then allow it to cool slightly and use tools to unscrew the oxidized assembly. The flame will inevitably destroy the rust on the bolt, allowing it to rotate.

Tip! Some threads have a heat treatment that will break when heated. Also beware of heating connections with rubber gaskets or bushings-they will fail.

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The final part

the screwdriver can really be considered a universal tool. Of course, other equipment is also being modified, but the advantage of this power tool is its low weight and compact size. And nowadays such devices are becoming more and more powerful, the voltage produced by their batteries is higher and higher. And who knows what else our craftsmen will come up with in the near future. But for now we can say that in the presence of various attachments and accessories, screwdriver is quite capable of replacing almost any power tool in the arsenal of home masters.

We hope that the information we presented was interesting and useful to our esteemed readers. The HouseChief editorial staff will be glad to answer your questions, if you have any while reading this article. You just need to state their essence in the discussions below. There you can also comment on what you’ve read, express a personal opinion, or share your own use of the screwdriver if one didn’t make it into our review.

Did you like the article? Then don’t forget to evaluate what you have read. Your opinion is very important to us. And finally, as usual, we offer you to watch a short video, which will help to fully expose today’s topic. Take care of yourself and your loved ones and stay healthy!

Traditional methods:

Seventh method: Drill clean and make an insert

The most time consuming and costly method of all. But there are times when this is the only workable option to get the assembly back in working order.We drill out the pin together with the thread.

Here we can finish, if the design allows picking up a thicker bolt or stud. If not. Buy insert or order it from your locksmith friend.Lubricate external threads with threadlocker and screw in.

Flush milling.Which method did you use?? Write in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев, I think your experience will be interesting! Goodbye!

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