How to cut a terrace board. Instruments for installation
For joiners, the board and timber are the most common blanks, of which in the future the production of crafts and wood products is carried out. And the first thing the material is subjected to is the sawing on the segments of the required length. At the same time, you should know how to spill the board evenly, because the incorrect performing this operation can ruin the workpiece or significantly affect the appearance, and not for the better.
In large enterprises, the problem of how to flatten a beam or a board smoothly does not arise. Any serious production has high.precision equipment that performs this type of work. At home, you have to do what is at hand. At the same time, the tool or equipment still needs to be able to correctly use to saw off the board correctly, and the cut turned out without flaws.
Note that many enterprises selling boards and timber provide services for their cutting. And for this they use all the same specialized equipment, so the purchased material will be cut qualitatively. But to use such a service is not always possible, and it often happens that you need to cut only one blank.
How to cut a laminate: select a tool
Laminate is a relatively new floor covering, but gained well.deserved popularity due to practicality and aesthetic appearance. In addition, it is easy to assemble it yourself, having completed all the necessary measurements. Laminate boards during assembly must be laid in a checkerboard pattern in order to give the strength of the entire structure. Therefore, each row requires correction in length, both at the beginning and at the end.
It’s not so difficult to shorten the boards or cut pieces of a certain shape, the main thing is to make the right choice. than to cut a laminate at home. Consider which tools can be used to cut a laminate board.
Advantages and disadvantages
Before starting to understand how the terrace board is attached, it is worth evaluating the advantages and disadvantages of decing. Material made in compliance with regulatory requirements:
- Environmental. For its manufacture, natural raw materials are used.
- Durable. The service life of the correctly laid coating is at least 30 years.
- Has an anti.slip surface, which significantly reduces the risk of injury during operation.
- Does not need additional protection using chemicals. You can do without varnishing and painting.
- Just mounted. Especially if you know how to put a terrace board. If necessary, dismantling.
- Presentable. Has good decorative qualities.
- Has good tactile properties. It’s nice to walk barefoot on the formed coating.
- Able to withstand significant temperature fluctuations. Retains properties at temperatures from.60C up to 80C.
- It is easily processed by cutting. Allows you to drill the fasteners.
- Represented in wide color.
- Not afraid of the effects of bacteria.
Attention! Terrace board can be of different sizes. Manufacturers offer deck 2.2. 2.8 cm thick with a width of 13.5. 14.7 cm and length 1.5. 6.0 m.
Of the shortcomings, it is worth noting the high cost compared to other types of finishing planks. The material is prone to patining, as a result of which a silver film is formed. The boards from the composite are outwardly not like products made of natural wood and do not have the same tactile qualities.
The main species
The technology for manufacturing a terrace board and its basis may vary significantly. Manufacturers offer products with a smooth surface, as well as having a texture in the form of a scar and velvet. Products with a texture surface have a profile of a rectangular and beveled look.
The last variety is used as a facing material. With its help, internal and finishing work is performed, complete or partial sheathing of residential buildings, fences, and arbors are performed. The side surfaces of the planken are made mowed or rounded. Thanks to this, it becomes possible to install it, and the formation of gaps between the elements is excluded.
Direct boards have special grooves that simplify the implementation of installation work. I figure out how to lay a terrace board with your own hands, you should seek help from professionals. They know exactly how to ensure the correct spatial position and reliable fixation of each panel.
Raw materials used for the manufacture of panels allows you to divide into natural and composite. Each species has its own distinctive features that should be taken into account when selecting a suitable option.
For the manufacture of wooden decking, natural wood is used, mainly larch. She has the following characteristics:
Advice! Given that natural wood is used for the manufacture of a terrace board, some difference in texture and shade is permissible.
Larch. wood of light tones. To obtain the desired color, the material is tinted by applying special compositions to the formed surface.
To improve operational characteristics, natural terrace boards are subjected to heat treatment. For this, the wood is calcined at a temperature close to 200 ° C for a given time. Passed by thermal effects of terrace boards:
- better resist the effects of moisture, making the possible cladding of surfaces outside the building;
- have good heat.insulating properties;
- have a clear and organic texture, improving the appearance and tactile sensations when touching the formed coating;
- do not rot for a long period of time;
- have biological resistance.
In the manufacture of wood-polymer composite, a composition is used, including various materials. Prepared components are interconnected using a polymer binder. Most often, grain starch is used to form decing. A certain amount of fiberglass, pulp industry and other components are added to it.
The color and texture of future planks is determined at the stage of production. To do this, a certain amount of dyes mixed in a given proportion is added to the main material. The size and configuration of ready.made panels affects how the terrace plastic board is attached.
The stages of the installation of decing
1 Preparation of the base
For this, the upper layer of soil is completely removed, and form a sand and gravel pillow. The best basis is the surface of their concrete. It is not allowed to install the board on open ground, grass or sand. Before starting installation, it is worth making sure that water does not linger on the basis. Lags must be installed along the drain, in the opposite case, it is necessary to make an clearance between them so that the water flows freely.
Lags are laid on the base, and fixed using dowels. The distance between the lags should not exceed 35-45 cm. If the board has a thickness of 19-20 mm, then the distance between the lags is 40 cm. If the material has a large thickness, then you can allow a distance of 60 cm.
If the surface is uneven, then adjustable lags can be installed. When laying, it is necessary to make a slope at a slight angle, this will make it possible to drain water.
2 installation of the board
In order to install boards, stainless steel brackets are used. They are also fixed with self.tapping screws. This makes it possible to form a gap of 5-7 mm.
If the board had to be cut during operation, then the open surface is treated with a special wax emulsion. In order to avoid cracking, all holes make in advance.
To consolidate decing, use an open or closed method. The second option for fastening the terrace board allows you to make the surface more attractive, and fastening is strong and more reliable.
When installing it, it is very important to figure out how to fix the terrace board correctly. If the boards are located where moisture will affect them, during the installation process, it is worth leaving a gap between them. It should be taken into account the increase and decrease in size as a result of temperature changes and leave a small space between the strips. Also a gap is necessary under the terrace board. Free space will provide ventilation and prevent mold formation.
The first board is placed at a distance of 15 mm from the edge or wall and reliably fixed. After that, the hidden fasteners are installed and fixed with screws on the board and on the lag. After that, the following boards begin to lay. The distance between the boards should be at least 4-7 mm. It is controlled using various inserts. The last board is fixed in the same way as the first.
Features of work with larch
Before starting installation, the material should be removed from the package for several days on the street or under a canopy, so that it adapts to air humidity. Before starting work, you should carefully figure out how to fix the terrace board from larch.
For decing, bars of the same material are used from larch. They are installed using special supports that can be adjusted. All end parts are treated with special compounds based on wax, and the surface is covered with an antiseptic. Do not allow the contact of the tree with the soil. The distance between the lags should be the same. All the bars are exposed with the help of the level, and make sure that they are located parallel to each other. The smaller interval between bars, the higher the permissible load on the surface.
4 installation of the stairs
The porch of the terrace board has a presentable look, does not need special care, and serves for a long time. For such designs, it is best to use a composite board. It is not subject to rapid washing, and does not glide even with water on the surface. Steps from the terrace board have a width of 30 cm and a height of 15 cm. This option is considered the most convenient and ergonomic. If necessary, you can make a design with other sizes.
Types of terrace boards wood-polymer composite
It will not be about materials, but about profiles and other technical points. We’ll say right away that there is a terrace polymer board full and empty. Complete. solid composite without voids. This type of flooring is good in places with increased load. These are public places such as the summer sites of cafes, embankments, pier, etc.D. Hollow. suitable for private possessions. Terrace near a private house, flooring around the pool, pond.
Complete. continuous composite, cellular can have various profiles. The extreme on the right is the most common
By the method of flooring
Further, there are two types of boards. a continuous flooring and with gaps. The solid flooring has a spoon and a groove like a dodgy board. Fits almost without gaps. The coating still passes moisture, but it leaves slowly and on the surface in heavy rain can be puddles. The advantage of such a flooring. small objects do not fall into the cracks. The second positive moment is that the ladies are easier to walk in heels.
The edge of the plate clings to these grooves. Thus, the deck is attached to the lags
The polymer board of the non.extensive flooring is laid with some gap. several millimeters. With such laying, moisture does not stand puddles, but seeps under the flooring. Well, and the problem with the longitudinal thermal expansion is solved. True, walking on thin heels on such a flooring is not too comfortable. It’s good that today they are thin heels. not in fashion.
Terrace board wood-polymer composite: profile
Non.full.flowing woody polymer board is also called cellular. It can be a closed profile and open. Closed. this is when there are two horizontal surfaces with jumpers between them. When choosing, you need to pay attention to the thickness of the partitions and horizontal planes.
Compare the usual (right) and reinforced (left). They are given on one scale
For increased loads on the terrace there is an enhanced type of deck. Thicker jumpers and horizontal surfaces increase the strength to bend. And this means that when laying on the lags, they can be placed less often.
Terrace board made of wood-polymer composite of an open S-shaped profile
An open or S-shaped profile of a composite board for terraces, this is when the horizontal surface is only one-from above, and from below only the end of the ribs. This type, of course, is cheaper and has a lower height, but it is better to use it in places where the load is very small. Although, there are species with thick jumpers as in the photo on the right. Quite a worthy option for laying not on lags, but on an even concrete site. But do not think that it will cost much less. The difference in price is small-about 10-15%, since the composite consumption is increased due to the thickness of the partitions.
By type of surfaces
Polymer decing can have different surfaces. In general, there are two types of surfaces:
With grooves. This type is called “velvet”. The size is more or less. Stripes width from 2-3 mm to 5-7 mm. Accordingly, they call Mikrevelvet or just a velvet, there is still a large one such a board does not slip, it is mentioned slightly. Minus. not very convenient in terms of cleaning, you have to sweep garbage from the grooves. The best cleaning tool is Kerher.
The same “grooves” can be polished or brushed. Grouped more smooth, in the branded with the help of a metal brush, a certain degree of roughness is formed. Both types of surfaces can be restored. The first type with the help of a skin, the second. a metal brush. The difference in color will not be noticeable, since the material is painted in the mass. A board with imitation of a tree is not subject to restoration. The relief in especially loaded places will be erased and nothing to do with it.
If there is no processing and the surface is “cast”. this is not a very good sign. Good manufacturers carry out pre.sale training, giving products a “commodity” type. So the material without processing is better not to consider. No matter how attractive the price.
The dimensions of the terrace board from wood-polymer composite
The polymer deck is non-standardized, so there is no need to talk about some single sizes. Each manufacturer produces such products that he considers the necessary. We can say about the dispersion of parameters and what sizes are optimal.
Such a parameter as the thickness of the board wood-polymer composite is important. But not by itself, but in combination with the thickness of the partitions and the thickness of the facial layer. This is what the strength gives the product, is responsible for the wear resistance and service life. So, these are the parameters of the hollow terrace composite board:
See the partitions yourself, the information about them is almost nowhere to be indicated. It is desirable that they are no thinner than 3-4 mm, ideally-4 mm. As for horizontal surfaces, it is better if they are 6-8 mm or more.
When choosing the dimensions of wooden-plastic decking, remember that the principle of styling is the same as the usual board-on the lags. These are bars of rectangular or square section. The thinner the board, the more often you need to put the lags. Otherwise, the coating will bend underfoot. And yes, a thicker board is more expensive, but it requires less lag. The difference in cost will certainly be. But it is usually not so impressive, given the cost of the lag too.
A staircase made of wood-polymer composite also looks beautiful and is convenient in operation
So what size is it better to take a terrace board wood-polymer composite? For private use, take the deck in a thickness of at least 24-26 mm. About the width. a matter of taste. But the wider the board, the less fastener you need. With the indicated thickness of the boards, the step of installation of the lag is 40-50 mm.
Materials and features of their choice
You will need the following materials in your work:
Terrace board. If it is precisely the wood-polymer composite decing, then you should pay attention to the ratio of components in the composition, the operational characteristics of the future coating depend on this. This information should be contained on the package.
If the wood filler is much larger than the polymer, the deck “inherits” all the shortcomings of natural wood dust. It becomes more fragile, less moisture resistant and, accordingly, short.lived.
With the predominance of polypropylene, on the contrary, all wood properties are lost, and the board itself is more like a plastic bar, slippery and not quite attractive.
Therefore, for climate and from the aesthetic side it is best to choose the average option. 50/50.
ATTENTION! Keep in mind that it is better to take boards with a small margin. In the case of a marriage in some planks, their damage during installation or subsequent replacement/repair, it will be difficult to purchase deck exactly in tone. for this the material should be from one batch.
Composite lags are great for home installation with a low load coefficient. They are resistant to the influence of an aggressive external environment and are strong enough for private use.
ATTENTION! Although on many resources they say that the lags can be from any material, it is better to use a wood-polymer composite when installing similar decing, since the temperature extensions of a tree and a composite are different!
Fasten elements. It is necessary to prepare the Klaimers. If you want to make a minimum gap between the decking strips from 1 mm, purchase metal clips (from stainless steel), but it is most advisable to take plastic ones. the gap will be noticeable (4–7 mm), but this is how the underground ventilation of open terraces improves so. Self.tapping screws are used special, with anti.corrosion coating.
The finishing angle or end strips is necessary as a decorative framing of the external ends of the boards.
Instruments for installing a terrace board
Each owner will have tools necessary for laying tools. This is a standard household set.
During the installation of the wood-polymer composite, you will need:
- Electric saw. end for transverse cutting or disk for longitudinal materials during adjustment, or an electrician.
- Electric drill.
- Screwdriver (if it is convenient for you to drill and twist a drill, you can do without it) or a screwdriver.
- The usual bubble level.
- Construction pencil.
- Rubber kiyanka.
- Carrying (extension cord) for working with wired power tools.
Features of the installation of a terrace board
You can saw a terrace board or deck using a conventional hand.pile. Such boards will require holes so that the screws can be screwed. You will need an angular grinder, level and roulette.
Before starting work, you need to prepare a tool and material. The larch board should get used to your climate, so after unpacking, leave it in the air for a couple of days.
The choice of a terrace board is now very large, you can choose it to your liking, it should be noted that the price of a terrace board from Holzdorf Alterwood.com.UA/Terrasnaya-Doska/Holzdorf/is quite acceptable, with very good quality.
- Before laying, you need to understand, an open or closed way will be mounted. Many details of the work will depend on this. If you choose an open method of installation, then fasteners will be noticeable.
- You will need self.tapping screws that have an anti.corrosion coating. Before starting work, make markings and drill holes on it, then attach the boards to the base with screws.
- If a closed method is selected, then the fasteners will be hidden under the flooring, for this you will need special fasteners. clips. They look like metal plates and have an anti.corrosion coating, for each square meter you need up to 20 clips.
The board can be laid diagonally or decking method. With diagonal styling, terrace boards are placed parallel to each other and walls. In this case, you have almost no material scraps left.
For successful installation, a strong basis is very important. It can be metal beams, wooden lags or cement screed. The base must be processed and closed with special material so that weed grass does not sprout.
Before starting work, a water drainage system should be developed so that the Earth does not swell after the cold. It is better that the base has a small slope, in the direction where the water will go.
The slope should be up to a centimeter per meter, visually it will be noticeable. Water accumulations should not be allowed either on the floor or under the flooring.
The basis for installation can be lags from wood-polymer composite. Lay the boards perpendicular to the lags, the distance between them should be up to 40 cm, and in passing places, they should be laid every 25 cm.
Wood can expand and contract, make a gap to a centimeter between the joints of the lag along the length. From the lag to curbs, walls, fences, pipes and supporting supports should be 2 cm. Moisture can accumulate on the flooring, so do water for water in advance, this must be done when laying the frame.
Water will drain if you laid the lags parallel to the descent. If this is not possible, make a special system for draining water. Lift the lags a little and place them on plastic supports.
The supports can be placed at any angle, relative to the board, in any case, it will cost you not so expensive, leave the rupture of the lag perpendicularly perpendicular.
If the lags are laid on concrete, the distance between the supports should be up to 40 cm. If you make a diagonal installation or you have a large load on the boards, it should be up to 3.5 cm.
For better ventilation of the structure and flooring, lay the lags on plastic or metal supports so that the ends of the terrace polymer board lie on the frame, place one supporting lag at each end of the structure, do it very carefully. The frame should be as strong and reliable as possible.
In places of connection of the boards, wider logs can be laid, the material can be fixed in any way to the base.
Do not lay the material if on the street below 5 degrees, unpack it a day before the start of work so that it breathes. Start laying from fixed structures, for example, walls.
Fix the first board with self.sutures at an angle of 45 degrees to the supporting lag, do the same with the last bar. Holes for self.tapping screws must be done in advance.
Place at least 2 boards on each lag, there should be gaps between the wall and the boards. Now the boards need to be attached to the lags using galvanized or plastic clips.
They will help to make a flat gap along the entire length of the board. In the lag there is a fortification for them, in which self.tapping screws are fixed.
The boards need to be sequentially attached to all points of the support, then your will be reliable. The gaps between the ends of the boards should be up to a centimeter so that it is easier to work, use the wedges of such a width, place fasteners at all the joints of the ends.
Sometimes laying is carried out in a scan, that is, all subsequent rows are shifted compared to the previous half lengths.
After laying, leave the ends of the boards protruding behind the edges of the structure, after fixing all the boards you need to align them, use the usual disk plate for this.
During work, process open ends of the boards using decorative planks of composite material. Make holes for the screws in the lags and install the strips in them, the same holes should be in the end boards.
The edges of the flooring can be closed with a baseboard, for this you can use corners of composite material or aluminum. Fix decorative materials using fixed limiters.
During installation, you need to take care of the drain of moisture, when installing the strips, make them one and a half centimeter holes in them. After laying the flooring, clean it from dust.
In a month. two after installation, the material can change the shade. You can find out more about laying a terrace board by visiting our website, there you will find a lot of useful information.
Below is the option of attaching a terrace board to lags from a wood-polymer composite. The essence of the technology is that the boards are laid perpendicularly installed lags. Given that the larger percentage of the composition in the terrace board is wood, this material has the ability to expand and narrow. As a result, it is necessary to leave a small gap between the lags along the length of at least 10 mm and from the wall or other structures at least 20 mm.
It is important to achieve all the flooring is well ventilated. For this, the wood-polymer composite of the lags are laid on the supports of metal or plastic. Plus, it is necessary to ensure that each end of the wood-polymer board lay on the lag, and not hanging.
Advice! It is recommended to fasten the terrace board at a temperature of at least 5 ° C.
The first board should be attached from the fixed side, for example, from the wall. The first board is fixed with self.tapping screws at an angle of 45 ° to the supporting lags. The last board will be attached in the same way. Before twisting the screw, be sure to drill the mounting hole of the corresponding diameter. Each subsequent board to the reference lags will be fixed using a special galvanized mount. Also, these clips can be made of plastic. Their use allows you to create an equal gap along the entire length between the terrace board. For the amenities of installation in the board there is a special groove where the clip is fixed using a self.tapping screw. Start mounting the clip from one edge and on each lag. But before that it is important to make sure that the board has become in its place.
Advice! If it is necessary to cover a large area, then you can carry out a method of installing a rang. In this case, each subsequent board will shift in relation to the previous one at a certain distance.
During the installation process, you should not immediately be distracted and adjust each board to size along the edges of the terrace. After all the protruding ends can be cut into one saw a disc saw. The result will be very beautiful.
The last strokes
After all the turnkey terrace boards are completed, the last bar must be performed, which consists in processing all the ends. One of the methods. use a special decorative bar. To install it in a lag or end part of the board, it is necessary to drill a hole for screws for attaching the bar. You can also use aluminum corners or special corners from a wood-polymer composite. Each decorative element should be attached to its place through fixed limiters.
During the installation work, errors are allowed that affect the operational characteristics. For example, in a hurry they forget to make ventilation gaps between the lags along the entire length and between the wall. As a result, this can lead to deformation of the laid flooring. Also screws or screws are very tightly clamped. This issue needs a measure.
Plus everything, improper organization of water flow is carried out. Worse is that the flooring itself and the lags are mounted strictly in level. In this case, rainwater and other moisture will accumulate on the surface. Because of this, the terrace board may absorb moisture. Although today there are types of terrace board, which absolutely does not absorb moisture, but it has a pretty high cost.
Violation of these rules can lead to irreparable consequences. Therefore, given all the warnings, the following cannot be allowed:
- Flooding the structure of the flooring and the lag with water for more than 4 days.
- When cleaning the surface, it is unacceptable to use a metal scrap or spatula. They can damage the upper layer of the terrace board. It is best to use brushes with a soft pile.
Tools and materials necessary for installation of wood-polymer composite
To lay a terrace board, you will need:
The brilliant reason he lays ziploc bags of cement in his backyard
- Building materials for the formation of the base for laying: bulk materials (PGS, gravel, crushed stone, sand), concrete for filling the foundation, concrete blocks, paving slabs, adjustable supports and other means for the formation of the base for laying;
- Geotextile or roofing material to prevent weed growth under the flooring;
- Special pipes for drainage;
- A set of wood-polymer composite lag, initial and finish guides, fasteners, rubber “pillows” and other accessories;
- Circular saw or angular grinder;
- Hydraulic level;
- electric screwdriver or screwdriver;
- Roulette and pencil;
Installation of terrace boards wood-polymer composite
Work does not begin with the leveling of the base. Experienced masters recommend first to carefully prepare for work. And the first thing the plan is the first thing.
Therefore, the process of laying the terrace board looks as follows:
Drawing up a laying scheme
To accurately calculate the required number of terrace floorboards and components, as well as the choice of optimal solution, form a drawing. It is better, of course, to use the special programs that each dealer has, but you can independently draw a scheme on paper on paper. After all, installation does not need to be carried out strictly perpendicular or parallel to the walls, other enclosing structures. You can make diagonal styling at an angle of 30 ° or more. An important point is to take into account the correct interval between the lags in the calculations:
The distance between the lags also depends on the width of the board and its fullness. If the bar is full.bodied, you can make an interval 50 cm. Hollowers with this gap will spring, bend, so the maximum distance between the support beam is up to 40 cm, for floorboards up to 22 mm wide. not more than 30 cm.
It is important to choose the installation method:
Preparation of the base
The base should be clean, durable, dry, even and frost.resistant. You can not put the bar on the ground or asphalt. Under the flooring should be a clearance for air circulation, as well as drain or rainwater drainage.
How to Install Master Mark Terrace Board
The basis for the flooring can be varied. Including:
- Concrete screed with a thickness of 8 cm or asphalt with a mandatory slope of 1 cm for each linear meter (or 1. 1.5 °) from static buildings or structures. Potholes, pits, loose areas are not allowed. If the base is already ready, and the slope is absent, you can cut the strokes with a 3 cm wide and up to 1.5 cm deep in concrete under the slope.
- Sand-gravel or gravel-sand “pillows”, which is formed by vibrotrams of the soil with subsequent filling of bulk materials and their compaction. The total layer of the base is 8-10 cm. On top of the prepared base, you can laid geotextiles or roofing material to avoid the germination of weeds. Then, with a gap of 40-60 cm, support beams or concrete slabs, metal profiles with an anti-corrosion coating, paving slabs with a size of at least 20x20x3 cm are laid. It is on this basis that the frame will be installed in the future.
The formation of surface drainage during the installation of decking on the ground is a prerequisite. To do this, you need to dig a drainage canal from the site in the ground, lay it out with geotextiles, lay special pipes with holes along the entire length, fill it with crushed stone and sand, close the soil.
Special adjustable supports of hard PVC, which were designed for the installation of flooring on asphalt, concrete and other hard surfaces.
Formation of the support frame
Two days before the start of work, the wood-polymer composite must be brought to the site and folded horizontally. Recommended temperature during installation. from 5 to 30 ° C.
The frame from the lag is laid with a minimum gap of 10 mm from the vertical enclosing structures (walls, sidewalks, columns, etc.P.). The beams are laid out on the surface with a pre-calculated interval, in each holes are drilled with a step of 50-100 cm, then the metizes are screwed up. Some manufacturers recommend fixing the lining unit with a metal mounting or steel corner.
Keep in mind that decinging is characterized by unidirectionality. That is, during installation, it is necessary to ensure that the lamellas lay in one direction in order to avoid some “stripes” of the flooring. Separate manufacturers draw arrows on the ends of the floorboards for this.
Laying starts from the wall or other fixed structure. The starting element (clip, corner) using self.tapping screws is fixed on the lag. The first board is installed in it and slightly knocked out by a rubber clay. The next assembly component (bracket or terminal) is fixed with a metiz on the other side of the initial bar, then the second lamella is attached and is knocked out. Remember that the floorboards need to be attached to each point of support on the lining beam.
The edge of the deck should not protrude beyond the frame by more than 5 cm. If necessary, the ends are cut by a circular saw. And the recommended thermal compensation intervals between the strips are shown in the diagram below.
If the deck is mounted in the heated premises, then the installation of lamellas is allowed. The angular compound can be carried out in two ways: diagonally with trimming and the method of selecting.
After installing the last board, the final profile or corner is mounted on it, and the ends of the boards are decorated using plugs.
The last stroke. washing the surface of the flooring with water to remove dust and sawdust. The terrace is ready for full.fledged operation.
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