Materials and tools Chancellery Knife MK for “Teapots
Recently, somewhere around six months, I was carried away by cardboard. Naturally, it constantly needs to be cut, I work mainly with packaging cardboard, which has many layers, so you need a knife constantly.
My MK is dedicated to the same “teapots” like me, t.e. Beginners to work with paper in large quantities, in different techniques: modular origami (if the modules are cut independently), all types of cutting, modeling, cardboard.
Recently, on the eve of the New Year, many undertook to cut out paintings, postcards, make tanks, paper tunnels, often for the first time for the first time. I hope that my master class will help save money and materials, since due to ignorance you can throw a lot, as I almost did it myself.
Experienced craftswomen probably know all the secrets, but after interviewing their inner circle, I realized that for many these secrets have become a discovery. So don’t throw slippers at me, this MK. for Dummies”.
First I just show how the knife is versed, you also need to know this. We take the knife, remove the lid from above. We pull, we are not afraid.
The cover is removed. Now we pull the knife regulator in the direction where there was a lid and take out the blade from the knife.
We put on a new blade on the pin, and repeat all the actions in the reverse order, t.e. Collect a knife.
Now let’s move on to the main secret, the ignorance of which almost destroyed me in the eyes of my smart and experienced husband;)
A little background. I have a knife, I cut modules, and at some point I understand that the knife was hopelessly dull. What to do? I went to the store, bought such a box with replaceable blades and came home. And then the most interesting. I go to my husband with a request to replace me with a blower blade in a knife. From my husband’s eyes I realized that I was saying something wrong. The pause dragged on, the husband struggled with his visible effort, no matter how not to say the offensive. But I already began to guess that the stupid, apparently, was not a blade. And your humble servant. My husband then interrogated me for a long time: you really didn’t know that.
The husband rose from the couch, went to the pantry, took the pliers and, making one magical movement.
turned a completely stupid blade into a very sharp!
All the magic is to capture the dull end of the blade with pliers and break off a dumb piece on a notch on the blade with a quick and easy movement. Attention: the knife is directed somewhere to the side, away from the face (just in case, so that which fragment suddenly does not fly into the eye, you never know the blade)
But I didn’t even know why these notches are needed on the blades. It turns out that the blade is very easy for them, it breaks off in one movement and we can work further without interference. We do not change the blade, we save time and money. The money, of course, is small, the packaging of 20 blades costs about 25, but the time is spent on disassembling and assembling a knife many times more than just to break off a piece.
Scarpbooking tools. The list of the most necessary. Description of all the most famous tools.
Well, firstly, inspiration, because without it it is difficult to create anything, and secondly, paper is the basis for creativity (about it, its varieties, about how to choose it, what paper is suitable for what it is suitable read in another article on our website), well, and thirdly, of course tools, and this is what will be discussed.
Others for cutting tape, adhesive pads. Because periodically, glue sticks on them, which can ruin paper, ribbons and fabric.
Why is it metal? Because you will naturally derive wooden or plastic in the first week of use and its edges will no longer be even, respectively, and the cut of paper will be uneven. Also, the obvious advantage of the metal line is that it slides less on the surface than a line of other materials.
Why 30 centimeter? Because if you work with paper size 30 by 30 cm, you don’t have enough line of lower length, you will have to shift it to cut off the paper, which is why the cut may also turn out to be uneven.
Simple pencil. here the choice is yours. Someone is more convenient for someone, to someone mechanical. The main thing is that it is well sharpened.
Eraser. Well, everything is clear here. With one reservation, the eraser should be soft and not leave traces on paper (sometimes colored erasers leave behind a trace).
Knife. no less important than scissors. With a knife, using a ruler you can perfectly cut paper. It may not always turn out with scissors, as exactly as a knife.
The most common is a stationery knife. It is a thin shift blade that is located inside a plastic or metal holder, with slots for convenient “breaking”. During the acquisition of this knife, it is necessary to pay attention to ensuring that the blade is well fixed and does not hang inside the holder. There are different sizes and shapes. Separately, interchangeable blades are sold to it.
A tsang or so.called accurate knife is a knife with interchangeable blades and a canging clamp (hence the name). This knife significantly saves time when working with paper. Happens with a round pen, reminiscent of a pencil, which is very convenient for use.
Roller knife. Initially, he was invented for such a type of creativity as a patchwork, but in scrapbooking he found no less popularity. Convenient because it is light and does not require much effort when cutting. It is convenient to cut paper and fabric with such a knife if, for example, you decide to make a notebook or album in a fabric cover. The blade of such a knife is also shifting, so it always remains sharp.
Glue is necessary for gluing your work. It is different consistency, has different properties. The main rule is not to use PVA glue for gluing paper, it “leads” this very paper very much. Having finished work, you can find that it went in waves and you will have to redo everything.
Read more about Klee for Scrapbooking, about which glue can be read in the article on our website here
A mock.up (self.healing) rug or as it is also called a mate for cutting. an indispensable thing in scrapbooking. Rather, of course, replaceable, someone cuts on linoleum, someone is on a stack of newspapers, but this is extremely inconvenient!
These are the main tools used in scrapbooking. But there are still a huge number of tools that are not the main, so to speak, of first necessity, but that tear off the enormous opportunities to create your creations.
Figure composers or hole punch. There are a lot of them. There are borders, angle holes, circular hole punch and holes for cutting figures.
The most popular them and the most commonly used are the holes for cutting figures: geometric shapes, tags, flowers, leaves, animal figures.
Now handmade flowers are gaining great popularity, and so the hole punch, cutting flowers and leaves will perform in their creation with an indispensable assistant.
The following in popularity are borders, with the help of which you can make a beautiful openwork edge, draw a tape into a postcard or page.
How to cut paper without scissors
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You can’t find scissors? Even without them, you can directly and carefully cut the paper if you use the following instructions.
Bend the paper where you need to cut it. For example, at all edges or only on one side. Wipe the bend well, first bent it in one direction, and then into the other.
Wet the fold. To do this, you can use a small drop of water or lick it. Perform this action with all the bends that have done.
- If you cannot perform a straight bend, use the ruler. The ruler will also help you tear off the paper on the fold line.
- To perform a good bend, spend something solid on it. For example, the edge of the ruler (just do not tear the paper at the same time). You can also use a pencil or your own nail for this.
- Be careful with water, as it can ruin the paper.
- If you have a ruler, then it can also be invested in a fold of paper and break the paper with a ruler. The sharper the rib of the ruler, the better the result will be obtained. You will need a little practice.
The basics of scrapbooking. Paper cutting tools.
Curvat for paper. a device for quick and even cutting paper. Very useful in the design of scrap-page and postcards. The cutter allows you to cut a sheet of paper so smoothly, as no scissors will be cut.
By the method of influence on the knife, the cutters are divided into mechanical (manual) and electrical. In turn, manual cutters are roller, saber and guillotine types.
The roller cutter (it is also a disk cut or trimmer) is a rectangular base (desktop), along which the cutting mechanism moves along the guide. It, in turn, consists of a sharpened metal disk enclosed in a protective casing. When cutting, the paper is between the roller cutting knife and the counteratus (a solid metal plate fixed to the patch of the platform from the side where the cutter moves). Such a cutter is ideal for working with a small volume of paper. up to 10 sheets, there are different sizes, the most common. 22.5 x 12.5 cm; 31 x 31 cm; 20 x 46 cm. It takes up little space and has a valuable quality. the ability to cut off the edge with a width of less than a millimeter, which allows you to work with maximum accuracy. In roller cutters, the knives are not subjected to secondary sharpening, although they are called self.shallowing. Just after a certain time they must be changed.
A saber cut is called because of a knife that looks like a saber. The saber cut is the most powerful and is used to work with a large volume of paper, but their accuracy remains within 0.1 mm. Sable cutters have a slightly different principle of operation. The sharpened knife of the cutter is fixed from one edge (in order to avoid the injury, it is closed with a protective casing), from the other it has a handle. Dropping it, cut the paper. A knife in a saber cut can be sharpened, although this procedure is not as simple as it seems at first glance. In addition, using a saber cutter is much more difficult than roller. To get the perfect result, you have to try.
The guillotine cutter is used to process large circulations and is perfectly suitable for large printing houses. Such a cutter is manual, semi.automatic and automatic. Its working mechanism (sharply sharpened heavy knife of the cutter) is located on a massive table and is driven by a lever or electric drive. The blade moves not only from top to bottom, but also obliquely along the cut line and is able to “process” impressive packs of sheets up to 8 cm. At the same time, accuracy reaches a share of a millimeter. Когда нож резака тупится, его снимают и подтачивают, а после нескольких заточек меняют.
The layout is used for cutting paper, sharpening pencils, and also necessary to cut out small details and complex figures. It is a thin shift blade similar to a pen with a protective cap. When working with such a knife, you need to have a mock.up rug (cardboard, organite or plywood) so as not to damage the table on which you work.
The roller layout allows you to quickly and without much effort cut the paper, as well as make a variety of curly cuts with special nozzles.
The circular knife is used to cut circles with a diameter of 10 mm to 150 mm. Ideal for the manufacture of cards and round parts for scrap-page. The knife is an axis with a needle and a mobile leg on which a blade is installed, according to the means of rotation of which a circle is cut out. A scale is also applied on a movable leg, designed to select a diameter of a cut circle. You need to work with a circular knife on a mock.up rug. Before harsh, make sure that all the screws on the circul are twisted.
A figured cutter easily cuts out any figure on a special stencil, it is not replaced when creating decorative elements for pages and postcards. Some models of curly cutters can be used without a stencil. When working with such a cutter, you need to have a mock.up rug so as not to damage the table on which you work and be sure to check the serviceability of the blade, if necessary, adjust in accordance with the density of the selected material.
Master class quilling how I cut strips paper strips
When I started my acquaintance with Quilling (more than a year ago), the first question that excited me. “Where to get the strips?”Having wandered around the site, I realized that most craftswomen cut them manually. The second question was “how to manually cut many narrow stripes manually?”To be honest, I thought that this was my acquaintance with this technique and would end. But having reviewed several MK that are in cm, she decided to cut. But either I am too lazy, or due to a lack of time, it was very difficult for me this cut. By virtue of her character, she began to look for a simpler path. I don’t open America here. I am sure that a bunch of craftswomen use this way. But for beginners, this method will be useful.
We will need: a knife for drywall (I buy in a construction store, inexpensive, but durable), by the way, a stationery knife can not cope with this task; interchangeable blades to him (each blade is divided into sections, also inexpensive); metal ruler; templates (I will talk about them later); And, in fact, the paper itself, which we will cut. At a time I take at least 30 sheets (in this case 35)
I put paper on plywood (tried to cut on drywall. it spoils quickly, but you can). I do not advise on the glass. The blades spoil quickly. I apply a template made in the Word program and printed on the printer on top, and the ruler on top. along the line. How to make a template is approximately written in this MK: https: // stranamasterov.ru/node/149779?TID = 587%2C451 (but I have a strip width of 2 mm). If there are questions. I will answer in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев.
Here are the first stripes. There are 35 of them. All one in one. At a time, the knife cuts out about 4-5 sheets. They spent several times. And there is a bunch. I do not use the upper white strip, since the printer paint is on it (then you can see it). I think for 35. One strip can be sacrificed.
I have already said that such blades are divided into sections. When you feel that the blade was dull (I cut about 15 piles of 35 strips), carefully break off the extreme section (holding it with pliers). The knife is very sharp again. So you can break the whole blade to the end
paper cutting knives
Here I changed the template, because we needed stripes of 8 mm.
Less than an hour. I am the owner of two piles of stripes (the dream of a quillingist has come true :))). Remained small. Set sons to be dismantled by flowers and place in the “storage”
This is a “storage” for my stripes. Each file was divided into three compartments and put it in a large folder. Let it be for now. In the future, I plan to sew s like files from a dense adhesive on a sewing machine (files are too soft)
Materials and tools weaving short twist or all ingenious just paper a newspaper tube paper
Good afternoon, the country! This is again, restless, again with my advice) how many years the people are weaving, and the question with the tubes is all relevant. Here again he rose the other day, and the name of the size of the twist. What gives a small twist? Pipe quality, t.to. it turns out the same size in its entire length. I switched to tubes 30 cm. I like them and in quality and my paper is cut by the A3 format on the short side. A tube that I will show, the length is 30cm strip width 10.5 knitting needle 1.5mm
Go?) Take the paper and fold it in half. We make the first cut as always. Straight.
Cut. The upper sheets turned upside down so that the bending place was inside the tube (if you do not turn the bending of the bend will puff along the entire length of the tube) and turn the factory edge to itself. We fold again, but not a corner to the corner, as always, but with a displacement of 1 cm to the right. Like this.
Cut. We get a non.even strip, but one)
We spread not only the corner but also a little to the right so that the place of twist is neat.
Put our spoke in relation to the strip directly, without any corner and begin to twist
Когда закрутится лишний этот см, то спица образует с бумагой минимальный угол. We continue until we spin the entire tube.
Here is the result) When I wrote zana that I have a standard of 1.5 cm of twist, I certainly bent) measured it), not all of these are from 1.5 to 1.8 cm. This is 1.6 cm
Guillotine Blade Sharpening Service
If you do not try to keep the knitting needle evenly, but let it go into the corner, then it turns out such a twist. I do not think that it is just 1.5, about 2cm is a pretty decent tube
The most important thing is that the tube along the entire length is flat. Here at the hollow edge 3.5mm
So you can cut the paper one edge even another with an offset of 1 cm per tube of 30 cm. Long in 60 cm did not twist. I don’t use such. Who uses try this method, only you need to increase the displacement to 1.5.
I do not in any case not claim that this is the only true way of wrapping, we all try and expert, but that it is easy to get a short twist in this way for sure!
My repair was deposited due to the heat), so I do not say goodbye, I will see you again soon!
Lily, how interesting! And why no one guessed about this before? You clever!
Lilechka, I did not have time in the front ranks, but with pleasure I not only read everything, but also used up the material. On 30 cm tubes it turns out great! I tried 40 cm, but the strips were already cut in advance by 10 cm, I had to make the cut in such a way that about 8.5 cm remained from the left edge of the strip width. Twisting a little longer turns out, but also nothing. Indeed, by and large, we are not interested in the twist by itself, but as an indicator of more gentle turns on the tube, because so? And they. yes, they turn out more gentle. On longer stripes, the sharp angle is more difficult to keep, the spoke “goes” gradually on a larger angle. But the effect is undoubtedly. And twist, personally to me, somehow more comfortable, or something was.
Lily, how great, that you respond so quickly and energetically to the questions that arise in the country, look for a solution, you find a simple and elegant way. And share it with us!
Now we will “see” how such tubes behave in weaving!
Curvat for paper.
Good day. Need your help. I decided to make postcards, I realized that it was impossible to work with a clerical knife to cut off perfectly evenly. I bought myself a cutter for a cheap, I thought enough for the first time, but, as it turned out, it is not possible to work at all, it cuts crookedly, the paper is not fixed.
Now I look at this one, maybe someone already uses it? I would like to hear your opinion. I don’t want to look for trial and error.
Somehow I read a review on the cutters, but then I did not need it. And, as is usually the case when it is necessary, I could not find this post, I regret that I did not save. Help, please choose a good cutter. The price also matters, I would like to meet 2000
Everyone who responded to my scream for help, thanks in advance.
Dear Bebeschki, I want to once again thank you all for help in choosing a cutter, thanks to you I made the right choice and is very pleased with the purchase. I posted a post in the same section about my rezak, you can read, if there are questions, write, I will answer everyone.
You have already written a lot here, but I will also write in defense of the roller. I already had 2 of them, and both of the same design. I had to change, t.to. the first dropped and his hook has broken, which fixes the bar. I got used to him for a very long time, but then, when you fill your hand and feel how it works. Everything will be perfect. To the pluses: it is omnivorous, there is no difference. If you want a cardboard cut, if you want toal, the blade does not stupid at all, you only need to change Marzan (this is the substrate on which the blade drives). Ideal angles of 90 degrees and a stable 0.5mm error is most likely associated with the quality of plastic, it is unlikely that the manufacturer laid the perfect accuracy in the design. If you choose for scrap. The roller is perfect. Sable is more suitable for printing houses and photo studio. there you can cut a pile of paper at once, but you also have to make more efforts. There is also the type of Fiskarovsky on the string, but they do not take a cardboard and this string can break (my girlfriend did it. cutting for a landfill). Even this cutter for 520r is not so bad, you just need to adapt to it and everything will go like clockwork. Yes, the paper is not fixed tightly (but in my opinion, not a single cut does this at all). Just press the blade to the guide, and went slightly pressing and smoothly.
Miracle stir (cutting cutting)
I went to work somehow for a friend. While waiting for the end of the working day, she told me a sad story about how every month she cuts out a bunch of receipts. It seems to be nothing complicated, a sheet of A4 format needs to be cut in half, but when such sheets need to be processed not one or two, but a decent stack (about 6000) then it becomes not at all fun.
And then I showed her how to use a knife and ruler. The way is good, but on a pile of sheets the ruler is difficult to keep exactly. Either she is bending, then he leaves, then the sheets will be fed, in general, crooked cuts are obtained, somewhere sheets are blocked, torn. After such a cut, the edges of the scissors have to be equalized. It turns out double work. So it won’t work. And I decided to make her a miracle stir so that it became a bit easier to work.
First I examined the available designs in the market. These were mainly the so.called saber cuts for paper, and cutters with a movable knife. The design of the saber cut was good because it was possible to cut a large stack of sheets, but in this case the edges of the cut would not be even, approximately the same as if the sheet is torn off along the ruler, and in my case it is critical. At the same time, structures with a movable knife were deprived of this drawback, but the volume of sheets that can be processed not large at a time.
As a result, the design chose the simplest, collected from improvised materials. The substrate is made of a piece of a wood-mounted slab, a clamping plate from a piece of metal 2 mm thick, 4 legs from the cabinet \ bedside table / table. Of course, ideally, you need either metal thicker, or to attach some kind of string of stiffness from above, but what was at hand, from that and blind. 2 plumbing couplings were bought in the store (honestly I don’t know what they are called correctly), a corner for aligning tiles or floor screed (beacon), 2 bolt 12×180, 4 washers, 2 nuts and 2 nuts with a polymer anti-vibration insert (so as not spun).
In the substrate, 2 holes were drilled into which I inserted 2 bolts., Then, from a piece of metal, he cut out a clamping plate with an even edge, drilled 2 holes for the bolts in it, cleaned it, polished a little, and soldered the couplings on top of the plate in places of location.
There were a small diameter of metal in stock, and a 25mm drill costs a little expensive. Therefore, the file and the jigsaw helped me cope with the bore of the holes. Since the plate was oxidized in the air and got dirty, and the paper should remain clean, covered the piece of iron with 2 layers of varnish. With holes in the plate I suffered for a long time.