How to disassemble a chainsaw: step.By.Step process with photo and video
Full lighting of the design of a multifaceted mechanism based on the work of a two.Stroke internal combustion engine. From the air filter cover to Carter ELS. We carry out a complete, step.By.Step analysis of a gasoline saw system, on a screw, with a specific example. For information and compression, the purpose of each part is described in a nutshell. The following photos and videos of instructions will show the principle of attaching each part, with the nuances of different models.
The technical complexity of any mechanism can be relatively accurately measured by the number of parts interacting in it. The effectiveness of the repair and maintenance of the tool depends on the understanding of the task of each element, but to follow a step.By.Step instruction, knowledge of individual terms is quite enough. In the next, supplemented image, the list is popularly demonstrated what the chainsaw consists of, with a description of the purpose of the main parts with one short phrase (where it is required).
- The fuel tank body is the basis for installing the mechanism and control elements.
- The shock absorber plug.
- Special screw. Shock absorber.
- Rubber shock absorber. 1 out of 4s installed.
- Gas trigger. An element of control of the throttle barrier of the carburetor.
- Gas thrust. A curved rod connecting a carburetor with a trigger.
- Air valve. Supplies air to the tank, with a decrease in fuel volume.
- Fuel filter.
- Fuel tank hose. Transfers fuel from a tank to a carburetor.
- Air filter cover.
- Air filter. Protects the carburetor from dirt.
- Cylinder cover.
- Lever. Regulates the position of the carburetor air damper.
- Carburetor-a device for the dosed supply of the air-fuel mixture into the combustion chamber.
- Heat insulator. An effective sealing gasket between the carburetor and the engine.
- Carburetor’s knee. Connecting component.
- Spend of the ignition. Supplies a spark into the combustion chamber.
- Cylinder. The main part of the engine housing.
- Silencer. Reduces noise, extinguishes sparks and directs exhaust gases from the operator.
- Ignition coil (magneto). Generates an electric pulse transmitted to the candle.
- Ignition switch. Closes and opens the contacts on the coil.
- Flywheel. Balances the clutch, prior to clean the air and generates the charge in the coil.
- Bearing. Provides a fixation of the crankshaft on the crankcase.
- Left crankcase case. Part of the basis for fixing the engine and moving elements of the mechanism.
- Piston axis. Connecting piston with crankshaft.
- Crankshaft-converts the reciprocating movement of the piston into rotation.
- Salting oil hose. Combining an oil tank with a pump.
- Carter case is right.
- Oil pump. Pump the oil from the tank to the chain, when the stars rotate.
- Clutch drum. The first element of contact with the chain.
- Clutch. Transfers rotation to the drum with increasing speed.
- The handle of the brake of the quapi.
- Tire cover. Hides clutch and oil pump (includes tension mechanism).
- Chain capture. Wraps or hooks the chain when cutting.
- Starter is a mechanism of manual rotation of the crankshaft to create a spark and start engine.
The components presented above are a whole picture of the device of a standard gasoline saw. Most parts consists of several smaller parts, but they should be disassembled separately only when repairing a particular node. To get to the engine, the elements can be removed in groups without disassembling the bus lid or the starter on the screws. If you want to get a more complete idea of the components of the chainsaw, or learn about all the components of a separate part, with the full version of the list.
Dismantling of the Chinese chainsaw
Detailed photo instructions for the complete and consistent separation of all parts of the mechanism. On the example of the Chinese chainsaw, the principle of interaction of all structural elements is shown. Analysis is carried out on a clean drive, without a tire, chain, gasoline and oil.
To facilitate the manipulation of the object and the convenience of access to the details, first of all we remove the handle, unscrewing the tire cover in advance.
Having released space for maneuvers, you can proceed to the main components. Remove the top cover, air filter and candle.
Unscrew the mounting screws and remove the cylinder cover.
Remove the carburetor, for which we disconnect the air damper lever, unscrew 2 fasteners and take out the base of the air filter. Disconnect gas trigger and nozzles.
We extract the lever of the throttle of the throttle so that it does not interfere with further disassembly. To do this, remove the top cover of the handle, disconnect the thrust from the trigger and take out through the hole.
Remove the starter lid, unscrewing 4 screws.
We proceed to the separation of the case with the crankcase, removing the zealor and shock absorbers.
We start disassembling the engine by extracting the ring of the carburetor knee, gasket and heat insulator. For convenience, it is better to use narrow.Folds.
Unscrew the fixing nuts / screws and remove the muffler. We also take out the gasket and stilettos.
Now, the removal of the engine cylinder comes down to a simple twisting of 4 screws. You need a screwdriver or bit with a long rod.
To disconnect the piston from the crankshaft, remove the locking ring and take out the axis.
The ignition module is fixed with a pair of screws and removed for several screwdrivers of screwdrivers.
The clutch is unscrewed clockwise and rotates along with the crankshaft, which must be fixed by resting the axis on the handle of the pliers. You can use the key to corner grinding, or a hammer with a chisel, but it is better to take a special puller.
In fact, the clutch and flywheel is more convenient to unscrew until the cylinder and piston is removed, which is easier to fix, placing a segment of a thick rope or cable into the candle hole.
Following the clutch, remove the drum with an asterisk, a needle bearing and worm gear.
Unscrew the side plate of the crankcase and the lid of the oil pump, after which we remove the oil pump itself.
We pull out the pipe connecting the pump to the oil tank.
We fix the crankshaft and unscrew the flywheel (counterclockwise).
Unscrew the lid and bite off the oil seal.
It remains to unscrew all the crankcase fixation screws and disconnect the halves (effort will be required).
Extract bearings from a crankcase, you can use ordinary tapping. To install closely, the place should be warmed up with a construction hairdryer.
How to repair the brake of the drive mechanism
So, how to repair the brake of the drive mechanism. It serves for emergency braking of the saw chain to avoid the injury of the operator, in our face. Lumberjack. This is one of the security systems that is designed on the tool. On the “horned” analogues of the chainsaws, this system is absent as unnecessary, it is understandable. In addition to the safety of the operator itself, the brake system of the chain is used to preserve the mechanism itself when jamming. Brake breakdown rarely occurs, the causes of the malfunction are rarely maintenance of the saw, lack of cleaning, wear due to a long resource, illiterate use of the tool during sawing.
When this brake system works? Most often, the brake automatically turns on when the saw, the object hurts the object (wood), arises, as it were, a sudden barrier, a blow. In another case, the brake of the chain is triggered when the tire clamp in the cut, and the lumberjack tries to free the chainsaws with sharp movements. The protection is triggered from an inertial strike. Stopping the chain. Also (operator) lumberjack can turn on the brake of the chainsaw itself. Manually using the upper lever (screen), it is also the return handle. This is necessary, as a rule, with the “vagaries” of the tool, when the chain continues to rotate without gas supply, with clutch failures or carburetor.
The principle of operation of the brake
Consider the principle of operation of the brake. The design of the mechanism is simple and unpretentious. This is a purely mechanical process. Starting, the brake system switcher is the lever already mentioned by us (screen), which is a strong element on the upper front surface of the chainsaw above the silencer. The screen is just located behind the operator’s hand, almost closely, it is connected to the lid. But, since we turn the tool when working, the screen may not be on hand.
Sliding lever without a spring in a cocked state
Sliding lever without a spring in the released condition of the trigger
The sliding lever without a spring with a released turmeric is fixed by a return spring at the base of the mount and the trigger switch. When impact, tire rebound, the screen hurts, drips in the hand of the sawman and then along the chain it includes a trigger that is interconnected with the screen. In the usual position, the trigger compresses the spring (not to be confused with the return spring), and when triggered, it exacers it and fixes it with a locking latch (latch). The sliding lever that is located inside the spring, in turn, pulls the metal tape. The metal tape is located around the clutch basket (clutch drum), it delays (clamps) the drum that stops rotating. The chain of the chainsaw stops.
Insert the screwdriver into a spring with a sliding lever
Put the spring with your palm so that it does not jump out.
Insert the spring with a screwdriver into the seat
We take the brake trigger trigger with a balloon key to weaken the metal bracket
But the brake may not turn on from mediocre pressing on the screen. In the lower part of the screen (at the place of attachment with the lid), in the body of the lever, the inertial cargo is “introduced”, which drives the trigger due to a sharp return. Due to the inertial weight, an automatic braking process occurs. The focus of the forest, for example, when the tree turns, holds the saw in an inclined (lying) position and, the screen, in this case, is not on hand, but to the side. In case of return to the resume, thanks to inertial cargo, the brake system also turns on.
When and how a malfunction of the brake system of the chainsaw arises?
As a rule, a metal ribbon breaks down, tightening the drum, as it is also called a clamp bracket. It either completely breaks, grinds, or one of its stripes (in the case of a through tape). This happens from the wear of the bracket, which, in turn, arises for natural reasons (the developed resource), as well as from the illiterate operation of the user of the chainsaw.
What does illiterate operation mean? Most likely, this can be called an inattention of a sawmill. Those who first begin to work with imported saws equipped with a brake system, as well as their analogues, do not notice when operating the tool when the brake turns on. For example, when trying to extract a clamped cut in a tree. The brake system works from sharp manipulations, but the inexperienced saw owner does not notice this. Having freed the saw “from the capt”, the lumberjack is faced with a surprise. There is no rotation of the chain when gas supply. Not understanding why the chain does not rotate, it desperately begins to turn the chain, instructing and “fidering” the tire of the foam or about the log. About any subject. Some “comrades” even remove the lid from the clutch, tear it out, although the metal tape clamps the clutch basket. Then they are not at the least inspected and even somehow manage to stick the lid back. Of course, the bracket already has a defect from this. In addition, it is not clear how, but these users of the saw manage to “excite” the tool and even saw. In this case, not only the clamping bracket is covered, but also the clutch itself. It burns out and has a characteristic blue color. Repairmen in the services often say and show a duffed tape and a drum with a characteristic groove and a beam, claiming that the owner of the saw operated the tool on the brake turned on!
If the stihl chainsaw does not work, stalls or does not work as it should. When starting the engine and with further work at idle, knocks or cracks are heard, the saw vibrates greatly in her hands, most likely the problem in the motor. Perhaps the piston clings to the cylinder or the piston rings were sobbed.
Engine recovery is the most difficult and jewelry process. It is quite problematic to repair the German chainsaw motor with your own hands, because in addition to local repairs, the final setting will be required. Therefore, we advise you not to get involved in the adventure and entrust the repair to specialists from the authorized service center.
Fuel system malfunctions
The main sign of a malfunction in the Stilevsky fuel system is that fuel does not enter the engine cylinder. Most likely, the case is in the fuel hose or the state of the membrane. If they are in integrity and there is no blockage down, the reasons must be sought in clogging the saopun or specialist.
If the fuel is supplied with spit, the stream is weak, most likely, the sapun is clogged. It must be carefully cleaned with a sharp nail or needle.
You can determine whether the filter is closed by the state of the fuel hose, if the stream is under excess pressure and constantly, then the problem is in it. You can certainly try to clean it, but it will be more correct to replace it with a new. Even with small loads, the Germans recommend changing it every 4 months.
In rare cases, the fuel enters the cylinder in irregular mode due to the clogging of the carburetor channels. It must also be cleaned with a mechanically thin screwdriver or wooden chip.
A malfunction of the uncertain category
In some cases, the owners of the chainsaws have to solve more complex problems to fully restore the functionality of their cutting tools.
Chainsaw does not develop full power
In addition to the problem considered above with a lack of admission to the cylinder of gasoline or air, the cause of the weak power may be a clogged muffler.
If you do not perform periodic cleaning of the muffler combined combustion products, then the problem of poor engine power may not be the only.
Carburetor depressurization and nozzle blockage
Over time, the screws fixing the carburetor lid can weaken or gaskets become unusable. A clogged filter or its unskilled replacement can lead to the formation of a blockage of nozzles. All this also negatively affects the work of the chainsaw and reduces the life.
In order to prevent this with periodically examine the saw and, if necessary, evenly tighten the screws.
Basil does not hold idle speed
It often happens when, after prolonged transportation and constant use of a chainsaw, he refuses to work evenly at idle. As a rule, this problem is eliminated by the adjustment of the carburetor.
You can find out how to correctly debug the carburetor from this
If the carburetor is rebuilt like a clock, then you must check:
- Fuel system. Start more logical from the fuel pump.
- Muffler. It is likely that due to the abundance of accumulated soot, the engine cannot function normally.
Chainsaw loses power under load
If in the process of work the power of the saw disappears somewhere, then the problem should be sought in the following places:
Repair system for lubrication of the chain
This is how the diagnosis of the lubrication system is carried out:
DIY chainsaw repair
With all the desire to be attributed to complex devices. Over, the simplicity of the design is its distinctive feature. Nevertheless, the repair of the chainsaw can take a lot of time. The complexity is not in the repair itself, but in the exact diagnosis of the malfunction. The same sign of inoperability can be caused by many reasons. Therefore, before you immediately take up the disassembly of a carburetor or engine, you need to think well and analyze the symptoms of a malfunction. No chainsaw repair instructions will replace simple logic.
REPAIR of the chainsaw
All malfunctions of the chainsaws can be divided into two main groups: engine problems with all its nodes and systems (ignition, fuel supply system, cylinder-piston group, exhaust system) and malfunctions of other nodes (circuit brake, lubrication system, clutch, tire, etc.).
Violations in the operation of chainsaw engines occur quite often, it is their detection and correction that takes the most time among users. Basically, they come down to the following manifestations:
- The engine will not start;
- Starts, but stalls;
- It works unstable;
- Does not develop power, t.E. It works normally at idle, but stalls under load.
When repairing a chainsaw with your own hands, you need to act by exclusion. Check alternately all possible causes of the malfunction, starting with those checking and eliminating which takes less time (about the device and operation of a two.Stroke engine, see here).
Ignition system. Almost all types of engine malfunctions listed above may be called the ignition system failures. Therefore, when they occur, it makes sense to start searching for a malfunction from the candle. This is all the more justified that the state of the latter can give useful information about the operation of the fuel system. So, when a problem occurs, you need to turn out the candle and inspect it.
Chainsaw ignition system: 1. Flaim with built.In magnets, 2. Ignition module, 3. Candle, 4. High voltage wire.
The wire is disconnected, and the candle is twisted with a special key.
Emergency of the spark plug
If the candle is dry, this means that the problem is most likely not in the ignition system, but not admission to the fuel mixture cylinder. You can wrap the candle back and take for the fuel system. If the candle is strongly sprayed with the fuel mixture, then there is its excess. This can happen from the dilution of the carburetor or violation of the launch rules. The candle is wiped and dried, the cylinder is drained, the fuel supply is blocked and having worked as a starter. To damage the combustion chamber and remove excess fuel. Then set the candle in place and repeat the launch.
The presence of a large amount of black carrier also indicates malfunctions in the fuel system.
Candle with black soil
The ratio between oil and gasoline in the mixture may be disturbed, the carburetor is not adjusted or poor.Quality oil is used. The candle is washed in gasoline, cleaned with a needle or an awl from the carbon, clean the electrodes with a small skin and installed in place.
In all these cases, it will not be superfluous to check the gap between the electrodes of the candle. Depending on its brand, it should be in the interval of 0.5-0.65 mm. You need to check the sealing of the candle. With its worn out or damage, the tightness of the combustion chamber may not be ensured, which leads to a decrease in compression in the cylinder and problems in the engine operation.
Even if in the case of checking the candle there is large reasons to believe that the malfunction is in the fuel system, you need to check the candle for the presence of a spark. At least in order to be sure that everything is in order with this. For this:
- Put on the spark plug on the candle;
- Using pliers with insulated handles, apply a thread or a candle nut to the cylinder;
- Pull the header’s handle and watch. There is a spark or it is not.
In the absence of a spark, you just need to replace the candle. If the new candle does not have a spark, you need to check the condition of the high.Voltage wire for the presence of a cliff and contact with the candle.
The reason for the lack of a spark can be a faulty ignition module or a disruption of the gap between it and the magneto pipeline of the flywheel. It should be equal to 0.2 mm. The disruption of the gap becomes especially probable if before this was the disassembly of the saw from the filming of the flywheel and the ignition module. The gap is exhibited with a gasket with a thickness of 0.2 mm placed between the boss of the flywheel and the ignition module. Failed ignition module should be replaced.
By checking the ignition system in this way and without finding a malfunction, you can proceed to the fuel mixture supply system.
Fuel supply system. If the candle with a candle was established that the fuel does not enter the cylinder, you need to consider all the possible causes of this. It can be:
- Not the intake of the fuel from the tank due to the clogged hole in its lid (sapuna), while a vacuum is created in the tank that prevents fuel from flowing;
- Pollution of the fuel filter installed in the tank;
- Non.Admission or insufficient intake of the fuel mixture from the carburetor to the cylinder.
To diagnose the first two reasons, it is enough to disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor and see if the fuel flows from it or not. If it flows with a full stream, the sappan and the filter can not be checked, if it does not flow or flows weakly, we can assume that the cause of the malfunction is found. The sapun is cleaned with a needle. The fuel filter is extracted through the flood hole of the emptied fuel tank, with a wire hook, along with the suction hose, from which the filter is disconnected and cleaned or replaced by a new. Mastery manufacturers recommend changing the fuel filter every 3 months.
Husqvarna 455 rancher teardown and rebuild, bolt for bolt! Part 1
Main nodes and proper dismantling
Different models differ in the location of the units, the fasteners therefore below the main points of dismantling of certain nodes will be considered below.
Before proceeding with disassembly, it is necessary to carefully clean the saw from the outside of dirt, fuel and oil, chips and sawdust. Drain the remains of fuel, oil from the tanks. Disconnect the saw part from the saw building. Next, consider the dismantling and repair of the main elements.
Starter is needed to start the engine. The breakdown of this element is very rare, mainly due to intensive operation. The breakdown manifests itself in the form of a banal cliff of the cord, not grasping the shaft by the flywheel, jamming. For an experienced person, the repair of the starter will not be a problem, but still consider a little more details.
It is necessary to unscrew and remove the side cover. We examine the contents, disassemble, clean it from dust and dirt. We look at integrity and wear. Wrap a new cord if necessary, replace worn elements. Grease mobile mechanisms, collect in the opposite direction. As practice shows, if this is not a break in the cord, then it is better to change this knot immediately to a new.
Disassembly of Solo 645 chainsaw for spare parts Бензопила Соло 645 на запчасти
Repair of the carburetor
Perhaps one of the most complex nodes. Assembly and disassembly requires great care. It would be nice to have a clear illustration of the device of the right model at hand. Gently disassemble, all elements are best up to clean paper. After disassembly, thoroughly rinse each part, blow the fuel channels. We assemble in the reverse order. Having assembled a node, it is necessary to set the factory settings of the carburetor and during operation to adjust until the end.
In addition to cleaning the carburetor, it is necessary to clean and rinse the fuel tank, hoses and filters. Otherwise this procedure will be useless, and it will have to repeat it repeatedly.
With the apparent simplicity of the node, the repair requires fairly high skills. If you did not deal with car ignition, then it is better to contact a specialist. You can hardly independently determine what exactly caused the malfunction. Therefore, it is best to limit yourself to visual inspection. Check for thermal and mechanical damage. Usually replace the ignition unit.
Many have a question about how to unscrew the clutch on a chainsaw. Consider in order:
- Asterisk performs two functions. It is a clutch drum and a leading detail of the chain. In order to remove it, it is necessary to unscrew the candle and fix the piston (with something soft and elastic enough so that chips and bully do not form).
- Clockwise we unscrew the fixing nut (left thread). You can also remove the clutch clutch. The coupling is the main detail of the transmission and is necessary so that the chain does not rotate at idle.
- Check all the details that form the clutch, if they are in order, then you need to put them in the reverse order. During the assembly, be careful with the oil supply mechanism to the chain. In different models, it is made in its own way. Therefore, after the assembly, check the oil supply.
This type of repair is due to the drop in engine power. We disassemble the engine, remove the components and carefully lay them out. We look at wear and tear and cracks of the piston, valves, the walls of the cylinder, bushings and a connecting rod. Usually all components are replaced. It is also necessary to replace the oil seals.
The main capacious and complex types of chainsaw repair are above. But they do not represent great difficulty. You can fix almost everything, you need only your desire and zeal.