Peorator drill: how to insert, remove, fasten

With the advent of concrete reinforced structures, it is impossible to perform external and internal repairs without a perforator. On the market there are a large number of models from different companies, these are Bosch, Makita, Sturm, Zubr, Vihr, Dexter, Interskol, Kalibr, Metabo, Soyuz. In spite of the variety, the basic units and mechanisms work almost identically. The process of repositioning the tool is also similar. Before you insert the drill into the rotary tool, you need to know how to get it out properly.

Using a Drill to Mix Glaze

The peorator is a versatile tool and has a lot to offer. It has a pneumatic device inside that pushes the piston, which makes contact with the hammer. The latter forces the tool to make reciprocating movements. The result is that the nozzles break through all kinds of surfaces. The presence of the impact function allows the tool to drill holes in hard materials.

Its purpose depends on the integrated modes: drilling, chiselling and drilling. There is a toggle switch for switching modes.

Producers produce models with different weight:

Its power and impact force depend on the size of the torch.

How to insert a drill bit into a drill without a wrench?

It can be done as follows: In a chuck hole insert a metal rod (a drill shank of suitable diameter will do) and use a slotted screwdriver “on the lever” to tighten the chuck. To be sure, move it to the next hole and repeat the action. You can open the cartridge in the same way.

Hammer is a tool for drilling holes, it is used in peorator and is not intended for work with a drill At first sight, the drills look like drills with hard-alloy inserts for impact drills, but application of drills in a peorator is impossible, as well as application of drills in a drill.

How to insert the drill into the core drill?

How to fit the drill into the SDS chuck It must be free of dust. Then apply lubricant to the slits of the bit and push it firmly into the chuck. Press until you hear a click. Pull the auger towards you, if it does not come out, the installation is successful.

Still there are drills, which grooves do not have a big chamfer, and such drills can be accurately clamped in a three-cam chuck of an impact drill, if you set both slots perpendicular to one of the chuck cams, the other two, will clamp the shank just at the edges of the grooves.

Protective equipment

Always wear protective equipment when working with the rotary hammers. Such aids are goggles, earplugs and gloves. Also, you should work in special clothes, excluding anything that can accidentally get caught up in the drill or drill bit. When working with the device, you should not put pressure on it, it can end badly.

Avoid letting the instrument run idle for too long, this is allowed only before testing it. When working with porous material, use percussionless drilling to prevent the material from crumbling. If you are going to work with hard material, it is better to use cooling lubricant here. If the work involves the use of a long drill bit, you can start with a shorter metal drill bit for the perforator, but of the same diameter, to save money.

Lubricate the core drill shank every 180 to 200 holes. Pay attention to the heating of the tool, it is better to make a break in case of strong heating. Alternate periods of rest and work. As a rule, a break is taken every thirty minutes. Its duration. For about ten minutes.

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Some tips for using the tool

It is worth reminding how to work with the rotary tool. This information will be helpful for beginners in the construction industry.

  • Use protective equipment at work: earplugs, gloves, goggles.
  • No force should be exerted on the peorator during work.
  • Do not let the machine run idle.
  • In case the material to be treated is very hard, it is necessary to apply lubricant. An alternative to grease can be regular machine oil.
  • Make drilling shorter if you use a long drill.
  • To extend the life of the tool, you should periodically cool the drill in water or oil and take breaks.

The torch has become a part of every builder’s and fitter’s life today. This tool will last a long time if treated properly.

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Easy removal of debris with the electrode

If you have a welder and thin electrodes at hand, you can use the welding sticking effect to remove a deeply embedded piece of drill bit.

Welding sticking is a phenomenon of the electrode sticking to the metal during welding works. Usually it gives welders a lot of trouble, but in this case it can serve as a good service.

Electrodes start to stick to metal when their surface is wet. Therefore, in order to get the desired effect, it is necessary to wipe the electrode with a slightly damp cloth. But because in this case, it can stick not only to the bit fragment, but also to the walls of the hole, it is necessary to wrap the electrode with electrical tape almost to the entire depth of the hole. Only the tip should be left free.

Once the sticking effect has been achieved, the machine is turned off and the electrode is released from the clamp. Now by pulling it, you can remove the drill bit from the workpiece.

This method of removing debris is one of the easiest, but has a drawback. If you do the work carelessly and let the electrode stick to the walls of the hole, the situation can only be aggravated.

Bits used

The list of works carried out by the rotary tool is large: drilling; cutting holes of large diameter; chiselling; slotting. To perform these tasks different nozzles made of durable materials are used. For drilling holes in concrete or brick there are drills made of high-strength steel with pobedite tips. There are several types of shank for their fastening in the chuck: SDS plus. This is the most common type. It is used for drill bits with a diameter of 4-26 mm. SDS max. This drill shank has a longer counterbore. They are used in heavy, high-powered tools. These drills are over 26 mm in diameter. The length of such drills. From 25 cm to 1.2 m. SDS quick. This is a rare type of shank. They are used in “Bosch” torches. How to insert a drill with this shank into an ordinary tool? For this you need to change the chuck. All nozzles are identical in the tail end. The working part differs depending on the function: Drills are used for drilling holes. The difference in the tips will depend on the hardness of the material to be drilled. SDS drill bits are used for cutting holes of large diameter. For example, under a socket or for indoor plumbing. Chisels, blades, and chisels turn a peorator into a jackhammer. They can be used to break down partitions, punch large holes, make grooves in walls for laying electrical cables.

How to insert a drill bit into a peorator? SDS chuck was invented for fast bit installation and quick bit change. This mechanism was developed in the 1930s. To fix the drill in the device, it is enough just to insert it, slightly rotate it, feel the grooves and click. The SDS mechanism aligns the balls with the grooves of the shank and locks it securely. To take out the nozzle back, you need to push the chuck to the side of the torch body and pull out the drill. Lubricate the shank with graphite grease so it fits easily into the chuck. This will also improve sliding of the balls entering the grooves. Repeat the procedure as the grease dries.

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Disassembly, brush replacement, impact mechanism design and troubleshooting

The torch, like any electric tool, requires careful attitude, correct operation and timely preventive maintenance. If you neglect these norms, the device can fail, not having worked out its resource. You can repair the peorator for some malfunctions with your own hands, but you will need the help of an expert to fix the breakdowns related to the electrical part of the motor.

Main malfunctions of the peorator and their external signs

All the unit failures can be divided into 2 groups: mechanical and electric.

Mechanical Failures

If there is any mechanical failure, its presence can be identified by hearing (noise and squealing).

You may also feel increased vibration or an unpleasant odor coming from the body of the machine.

So, mechanical failure can include the following:

  • Breakage of the unit’s mode switch;
  • Worn striker and striker rubber bands;
  • Breakdown of the percussion mechanism;
  • Failure of the unit barrel due to wear and tear;
  • Breakage of the gear teeth;
  • Breakage of a chuck, as the result of which the drill comes out.

Electrical problems

Failures connected with electric part of the peorator may be also accompanied by unpleasant smell from the equipment body, arcing. You may also notice that the motor is rapidly warming up and humming without rotating, or that smoke is coming out of it.

To the electrical breakdowns of the unit can include such as:

  • The machine does not turn on;
  • Breakage of the start button;
  • Brushes wear;
  • Clogging of the manifold;
  • Violation of electrical contacts;
  • Burnout of stator or rotor winding of an electric motor.

Algorithm of disassembling the unit

To eliminate mechanical and electrical problems (except for breakage of the electric plug) you cannot do without disassembling the unit. The most popular among masters, both home and professional, are brands of peorators Bosch, Makita, Interskol, Energomash. The design of units from different manufacturers is about the same, so the ways of disassembly will be similar. But you should not disassemble the machine completely, because it will be difficult to assemble it back. The photo below shows how the fully disassembled machine looks like.

Disassembly of the cartridge

Disassembly of the unit for troubleshooting should be done carefully, with inspection of each removed part. In order to assemble it easily, it is better to take photos of the disassembly. If you don’t find any external defects on the machine, it is advisable to start with the chuck first.

  • Remove the dust cap (1) made of rubber first.
  • Carefully, so as not to lose it, use a screwdriver to remove the retaining ring (2) and then the plastic dust cap (3).
  • In the next step, it is important not to lose the small ball located under the washer (4). Remove the washer (4), plate (5) and spring (6) as well as the ball (7). It is when these parts are worn that the auger falls out of the chuck. In some cartridge models additional balls and washers are possible.

Disassembling the case

If the housing has to be disassembled, the operating switch has to be removed first.

  • Place the switch in the “Punch” position. There is usually a hammer on this point on the housing. In case this mode is not present, put the switch to the “Drill Impact” position.
  • Next, press the button located on the switch knob and turn it slightly below the hammer symbol until you hear a click.
  • After that you need to pry the switch with a screwdriver and pull it towards you to remove it. On some models, this switch may be bolted to the chassis with screws.

Disassembly of the electrical section of the stator

To get to the electrical part of the machine, if there is a suspicion that this may be the fault, you need to perform the following steps.

  • Remove the screws holding the rear cover and remove it.
  • Remove the fasteners holding the power cord.
  • Next, pull out the wires and remove the start button.
  • Remove any wires secured to the stator.
  • Remove the brushes by unscrewing the fastening screws.
  • Separate the electrical and mechanical housings of the machine by unscrewing the respective screws. Use a “flat” screwdriver to separate.
  • Remove the rotor from the gearbox. If the bearings need to be replaced, use the special puller.
  • Remove the air intake, which is located in the housing of the electric part of the peorator.
  • Disconnect the stator from the housing. To remove it from the housing more easily, it is advisable to pull the stator by lightly tapping on the housing with a wooden object.
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If you want to disassemble the barrel peorator, with the electric motor mounted vertically, first remove the handle and then unscrew the bolts that hold the motor.

Electric Motor Brush Replacement

The main sign that it’s time to replace the brushes is increased sparking in the area of the electric motor manifold, rapid heating of the brush holders, and an odor of burning. When the brushes are not worn out, the spark is only visible underneath them. Otherwise, the spark is visible all around the manifold.

If there is sparking around the collector when the brushes are not worn, this is a sign of worn bearings, rotor or stator insulation failure, burned-out collector plates, burned-out stator or rotor.

Another sign that the stator is burned out is that there are sparks under one electrode only. If you have a tester you can check the stator and rotor: measure the resistance on the rotor and stator one after the other. If it is the same on both windings, then there is nothing wrong with the stator. If you notice clear signs of problems with the rotor or stator in your peorator, you will have to take the machine to a service center for repair. As for the brushes, they can be changed by the user.

How to use the mixer attachments on a peorator

This is an elementary procedure, which can be handled by anyone who has ever worked with such a tool as a peorator. The idea is to insert the mixer attachment into the peorator and begin mixing the mortar.

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If you suddenly don’t know how to put a mixer on the stator, take heed of the following tips.

  • Check what type of chuck is used on your power tool. Make sure that you have a hammerless mode and that you have a speed regulation function. In the percussion mode to knead the mortar is impossible in any case.
  • Before putting on the attachment, look at its shank. If it matches the cartridge, then there is no problem. If you have a different whisk shank, then you have to get a different chuck or use adapters. But don’t make it any harder on yourself. Usually there are mixer nozzles for different types of chucks on sale.
  • Since the nozzles in the whisk can be clamped manually or with a wrench, you will need to prepare the tool, unscrew the mount, remove the old nozzle. Insert the mixer cup in its place and tighten it properly. Key chucks hold nozzles better in this regard. Although it is more convenient to work with a manual screwdriver.

How to remove the mixer nozzle from the chuck will also not be a problem. Unscrew the chuck by hand or with a special wrench. And then remove the already unnecessary mixer attachment and replace it with the necessary.

As you see, it is quite easy to put on and take off a special mixer attachment. No tricky gadgets are needed here. The main thing is to initially pick the right shank and whisk with the right parameters to fit the specific mortar being kneaded.

Please note that when you have finished your work, it is advisable to thoroughly rinse the head itself, as well as clean the body of the peorator from possible solution buildup.

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