How to Insert the Drill in the Peorator Properly?

It must be cleaned of dust. After that, you need to apply specialized lubricant to the slits of the tool and with force insert it into the chuck of the drill. Press down until you hear a click. Pull the auger toward you if it does not come out, installation was successful.

To drill, the drill bit must be positioned in the place where the hole will be drilled and only then should you press the power button. Do not apply too much pressure to the surface when working with the drill.

Why a special chuck is needed

To begin with, it should be noted that, despite the outward resemblance of a torch and a drill, these tools have a completely different design. In a drill chuck rotates through the transmission of torque from the motor shaft through a reducer of several gears. The drill is fitted with a collet mechanism to ensure that the drill is held securely in the chuck.

The torque is converted from rotary to reciprocating motion. This unit is also available in normal rotation mode. Due to the presence of reciprocating motion, the device is equipped with a special kind of retainer. Collet chucks are unacceptable in the tools in question because they cannot withstand reciprocating motions. That is why a special SDS chuck is used, which can withstand both rotational and reciprocating motion.

If there is a need to use a drill bit in the peorator, then there is no need to replace the chuck.For this purpose there are special adapters for peorator by means of which it is possible to install any bits with cylindrical or hexagonal shank. Such adapters can greatly facilitate the life of the master, especially if there are drills for the drill in the arsenal.

Good to know! It is not possible to insert a drill bit with a cylindrical shank into an SDS drill bit. For such purposes, there are special adapters, which are the usual collets with a shank for the SDS-chuck.

How to Insert an Ordinary Drill Bit into a Drill Chuck

Cases when it is necessary to drill not in concrete, but in metal or any other material with a peorator are not rare. For this purpose, the master has to resort to the use of special drills with SDS shanks. Such drills are available in various diameters, but their disadvantage is the high cost, which is several times higher than conventional drills with cylindrical shanks.

To be able to install a drill bit with a cylindrical shank into the rotary table, a special adapter or adapter must be purchased. Such an adapter is fixed in the chuck of the used tool like an ordinary drill.

Important to know! The tool in question is designed to perform both drilling and drilling work. Using drills for the drill in this unit, it is necessary to work only in the drilling mode, otherwise, the collet mechanism will quickly fail. This is especially true for quick-action chucks.

An adapter with collet chuck costs around 300. It is important to note that such products can be both key-type and a quick-action clamp. Any bits with a cylindrical shank can be used with this chuck, e.G. Drills, mixers, bits. A large number of drill rpm does not always allow you to mix mortars. That is why they resort to using powerful units, especially if they need to mix large volumes of mortar.

Craftsmen recommend buying the quick-action types of chucks, because the peorator is a rather heavy machine, so it is very difficult to hold it and unscrew the bit with a wrench. Use of a quick-clamp locking mechanism allows for quick and rapid change of attachments, unlike the key-type.

The use of adapters allows you to perform various types of work with the peorator, while the drill is not able to cope with them. For example, it is very difficult to drill a large diameter hole in wood with a low-power drill. To avoid overloading the drill and allowing it to burn out, a torque converter is recommended. This tool will drill a hole of any diameter that a drill can’t handle.

Good to know! The presence of backlash in the design of the chuck of the device reduces the high accuracy of work performed. This means that this tool is designed more for power, not accuracy.

Features of selecting an adapter

When selecting an adapter for the peorator, you should consider the type of chuck used in the tool. These types of chucks can be used in these machines:

  • SDS-plus, which are used in household machines. They allow you to install shanks with a diameter of 10 mm.
  • SDS-max. Such chucks allow you to fix a shank with a diameter of 20 mm, and are used mainly in professional models.

Important to know! SDS clamp design was proposed by German company Bosch in 80s. The abbreviation SDS stands for “Steck-Dreh-Sitzt”, which in German means: “insert, turn, drill fixed”.

When selecting an adapter, you should take this factor into account, otherwise the adapter will simply not fit the tool. When choosing, you should also consider that key chucks are more reliable, but require the use of a special key. Quick-clamping is easy to work, but it has a small service life.

SDS-max allows the use of SDS-plus bits, for which special adapters are used. It is not possible to change it back.

In conclusion, it is necessary to note the efficiency of the tool in question. Although the drill can solve many different technological tasks, the drill is used where power plays an important role.

Drill bit adapter for foot drill

The peorator is a drilling tool that is equipped with a percussion mechanism. Such tools have special types of locks called SDS chucks. Special nozzles are produced for such chucks, which are reliably fixed in the tool. The advantage of SDS chucks is speed and convenience of bit changes. It is not possible to fix a drill bit with a drill bit shank in the peorator, so adapters are available for such purposes. Drill bit adapters allow the use of drill bits. This is very convenient, especially if you consider the fact that SDS-drills are somewhat more expensive than drills.

Chucks used by the tool

How to insert the drill bit into the peorator? SDS chuck was invented for fast bit installation and easy bit changes. This mechanism was developed in 30s of the last century. To fix the auger in the device, it is enough to insert it, slightly turning it to feel the grooves and to click. The SDS mechanism aligns the balls with the grooves of the shank and securely clamps the shank. In order to take the nozzle back out, you have to push the chuck toward the peorator body and pull the drill out. Grease the shank with graphite grease to make it fit the chuck easily. This will also improve the sliding of the balls in the grooves. As the grease dries out, you need to repeat the procedure.

The drill of an ordinary drill is different. There are no grooves, recesses or protrusions on the shank. But for drilling in metal, you need a simple drill bit. How to Insert the Drill Bit into the Peorator in this Case?

For this, a removable chuck is used that has a shank, like a conventional bit, and is inserted into the SDS-mechanism. These chucks come in two varieties:

    Cam-type. It is a collet clamp that is actuated by a wrench. The perimeter of this chuck has teeth that form a gear. The wrench engages with these teeth and the torque is transmitted through the gearbox to the collet mechanism, clamping or releasing the drill.

How to insert the drill into the drill and peorator. Correctly inserted drill bits

Drill and peorator, as the tools that make the cutting elements rotate. Indispensable machines for construction, repair, installation of various equipment and other types of work. How to Insert a Drill Bit into a Drill and Peorator? If this is not done correctly, you will not be able to work with the available power tool and apply it to your activity.

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The issue, of course, is not complicated, but it requires proper attention, as incorrectly fixed drill bit can lead to problems: uneven and broken hole, the likelihood that the drill bit will fall out of the tool, causing injury, and other troubles. First, let’s look at how to insert the drill bit into the drill.

How to insert the drill into the drill

For proper operation, the drill bit must be secured with the shank in the drill chuck. Most drills have a cam-type chuck. Such parts represent a cylindrical body. A ring or thermowell rotates on the surface of the cartridge. Inside the cylinder there are cams, which, during the clockwise rotation of the sleeve, come close to each other, compressing the drill bit. Turning counterclockwise the jaws move away from each other, loosening the grip of the drill bit, so it can be easily removed or replaced. The cams should be relaxed to a certain extent so that the drill bit can easily be inserted.

All drill diameters can be clamped by the clamping principle. Household drills are usually made with a standard allowable drill bit diameter range of 0.8-10 mm. There is another interval for some models. 1.5-13 mm.

Memo! When drilling tiles, the percussion mechanism must be disabled.

There are two types of jaws: key-action and rapid-clamping. With the first version, the thermowell is moved by a special spanner. On the side of the chuck there is a hole in which a special key with teeth is inserted. Sometimes there is not one but three holes and each must be loosened by turning counterclockwise with a wrench. One or two rotations are required, no more. Then start turning the chuck itself counterclockwise, increasing the diameter of the drill hole. Now, having inserted the drill bit, clamp first the chuck, then the sockets.

In a quick-action chuck, the sleeve rotates manually. Drills and screwdrivers with this clamp often use locking elements that limit the pulling force.

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Make sure that the machine is working before you fasten the drill bit. Then you must de-energize it and then you can insert the drill bit.

Never economize on drill bits. A good drill bit will do the job better and last longer.

How to insert the drill into the torch

As with the drill, before inserting the drill bit into the chuck, make sure it is in good working order. Having set the tool in the mode of drilling without fight (left position), we press the start button. If the sound of the motor is smooth and without jolts, the drill can be fixed.

First of all, the drill bit shank must be properly lubricated and inserted into the chuck. It is better to use a lubricant that protects metal parts against corrosion. Place the drill with the crank on the floor or on a firm surface, pull the rear part of the device backwards and insert the drill all the way into the drill.

Memo! To drill a concrete wall, it is better to use a rotary drill than a hammer drill.

When replacing drilling tools, ensure that the drill shank is free from old grease and dust. Drill bits should be clean and without any encrustation. If excessive friction occurs during the insertion of the drill bit into the chuck, it is better not to rush the work, but rather to timely lubricate the mechanism with fresh grease, removing the old one, on which construction debris got. The drill bit should slide in easily and smoothly.

When installing, the drill needs to be held vertically. Careless movement and improper fastening can damage not only the drill bit but also the tool itself.

Chisels, mixers and other tools may also be used with the rotary tool. Whether you are going to work with a drill or other attachment, consider the power of the motor, whether it can handle a heavy load.

Some helpful hints

Never forget safety precautions when working with a power tool. Protective equipment such as special glasses, earplugs or earphones and gloves are essential. Wear protective clothing that does not allow lanyards, belts, or other hanging accessories to get caught up in the drill. Don’t let the appliance go to waste for long periods of time. Turn it off after each step of the job. Let the tool rest, especially if you feel it is overheating. Typically, the “schedule” is 30 minutes of work to 10 minutes of rest.

The drill bit must be inserted into the chuck as far as it will go. Striving to make the hole deeper by not fully plunging the drill bit is strongly discouraged.

If the drill is stuck in the drill, you need to clamp it in a vise, and through a wooden bar, tap with a hammer on the cams that do not release the drill. Drill bit stuck in the drill can be pulled out by dropping some oil in the key chuck, or by removing the chuck together with the drill bit and putting it in petrol.

Easy extraction of the chip with the electrode

If you have a welder and thin electrodes at hand, you can use the welding sticking effect to remove a deeply embedded piece of drill bit.

Welding sticking is a phenomenon of an electrode sticking to metal during welding works. This is usually a nuisance to welders, but in this case it can be very useful.

The electrodes begin to stick to the metal when their surface is wet. Consequently, in order to get the desired effect, it is necessary to wipe the electrode with a slightly damp cloth. But since in this case, it can stick not only to the chip of the drill, but also to the walls of the hole, it is necessary to wrap the electrode with electrical tape almost the entire depth of the hole. Only the tip should remain free.

After the sticking effect has been achieved, turn off the machine and free the electrode from the clamp. Now, by pulling it, the drill can be removed from the workpiece.

This is one of the easiest methods of removing fragments, but has a drawback. If you do the work sloppily and let the electrode stick to the walls of the hole, you can only make the situation worse.

Openings

Used for piercing holes with diameters of 45-80 mm in masonry, concrete and silicate bricks. Suitable for routing pipelines and cables.

  • The drilling head is shaped like a bell and has an asymmetrical shank arrangement;
  • The cutting edge is made of carbide;
  • Ensuring efficient operation is performed by a large spiral with a long tapered shank;
  • Accurate drilling is provided by the drill bit in the center;
  • The head is designed to reduce friction in the hole to be drilled, which allows the work to be done much faster;
  • Is designed for through holes.

Causes

There are several main reasons why this malfunction can occur. Among them, we can distinguish the two most common:

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  • Jamming of the drill bit in the chuck or in the buffer element (it is used when installing a normal peorator nozzle);
  • The drill is stuck in the peorator clamp.

In the first situation, the malfunction is due to the need for a drill bit, which is necessary for the functioning of the device. In order to insert it, a special element is used. The adapter chuck (the same part is used for an electric drill). It is usually placed in the clamping element of the peorator, and then begins to work.

After completion of the work, it may be difficult to pull out the nozzles because of their tight fixation by means of the jaws of the clamping hole. There is a quick and easy solution to this situation because the problem arises from improper use of the clamping mechanism. Many users forget (or simply don’t know) that it needs to be lubricated periodically. This is the reason why it jams.

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The second situation happens because the element is stuck in the perforator itself. The nozzle of an electric drill rotates in a circle, and in some devices also reciprocates. This is because the tool body transmits momentum through the bottom of the chuck and the jaws.

But in the rotary table the energy is transferred on a different principle, so the nozzles move on a different trajectory. This tool is designed with a rotary-impact and percussive motion vector. Power is supplied to the tool through the bit, which starts moving when the power unit, which is connected to electricity, starts working. This bit acts on the shanks of the tools inserted in the chuck, mechanically (drill, borer, chisel, crown bit).

There are special grooves on the tool bit that are securely clamped in the clamping element. This allows them to transfer the torque. Cheap nozzles are usually made of low-quality materials and soft alloys that cannot be heat-treated. This makes the tails unsuitable for further use because they cannot withstand the load. In this situation, you will most likely have to completely disassemble the tool.

Troubleshooting

No matter how reliable and high-quality your Makita is, it can break or break down over time. Any damage can be repaired if preventive maintenance is carried out in good time. Both mechanical and electrical parts can fail.

The chuck will not spin

If the equipment cracks when working, does not rotate the chuck, then perhaps there was damage in the motor. To understand the reason, you need to disassemble the mechanics. If the problem is not in the motor, it is most likely in the motor.

Options: broken trigger, shorted coils.

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Using a tester, you can pinpoint the causes of failure and eliminate them.

The auger does not hold in the chuck

Disassemble the cartridge and find out what the problem is. Most likely it is an aging, deteriorating cartridge. Maybe the fixing spring has sagged, the balls have lost their shape, and so on.

Usually, the replacement of obsolete or broken parts can correct this type of failure.

Anchor Replacement

It is not difficult to remove the anchor if you follow a certain sequence:

  • Disconnect the back cover, unhook the brushes;
  • Unscrew the gear housing and clean all parts from dust;
  • Next, remove the anchor by pulling it lightly, and put a new part in its place;
  • Before placing the new anchor, do not forget to put on the rubber buffers, change the air intake plate;
  • Put all the parts you removed before in reverse order.

Tool does not hammer

Most likely, the floating bearing is broken, you will need to replace it. The malfunction may also be due to a shock disturbance. Can occur after long hours of use, causing cracking of the striker. In this case, it must be replaced.

Another type of failure is the aging of the piston group. Piston and sleeve must be replaced.

Start button replacement

  • Remove cover over the equipment;
  • Disconnect the contacts of the conductors;
  • Pull out the body of the button from the place where it is located, and put a new button;
  • Reattach the pins by reassembling everything in the reverse order.

Tool is overheated when in use

If you follow all the rules of using the torch, namely: take pauses during use, let the machine idle, overheating will not occur. But if this has already happened, you need to check the electric motor.

If you smell burning, it is necessary to immediately disconnect the tool from the mains.

Disassemble the device after complete cooling, check the integrity of the motor, and if it is damaged. Replace it.

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