How to make a stand for an angle grinder yourself

The rack for the angle grinder (angle grinder) with his hands or self-made cutting machine

As I said before, in the garage I have two problems. to cut off evenly and to drill evenly. Drilling problem solved, the drill stand was well worth the time and money. I’ve been in the corner awaiting my time with an angle grinder for a long time. Exactly the angle grinder. made back in 1977. In Bulgaria at ELPROM LOVECH, a terribly heavy but rumored to be very reliable angle grinder. I tried to work it. I thought I was if not a hard-ass, then I’m definitely an expert. Always worked a big Makita 9069, the thing is quite powerful and heavy. But the angle grinder compared to the Makita is a wild beast. With similar power to the Makita 1.My Tiggo is much heavier than a 9KW, and mine was specifically designed for 180mm wheel rpm and 8500 rpm. In general, I decided then, that in my hands I will not take it anymore (I’m afraid) and the way it is only in the rack. And I wanted to make a stand for a long time. And of course the rack must be as usual. “light, strong and reliable”. I’ll tell you right away, the only justification for the work done. “well, it’s for HIMSELF, for many years, a good tool is not easy”.

Started out like everyone else. welded a rectangle for the base.

For the hinge was taken the rear hub, I think from Chery Tiggo. I cut the center tab off it, I scraped off the ABS sensor.

The hub is bolted to a channel, in which a hole is cut out for mounting. I cut it with an angle grinder, it’s pretty hard. I finalized it with a file.

The main bracket for the angle grinder began to do from the angle grinder. First, I fitted the brackets to the usual places for mounting the handles, and then welded a third bracket between them.

Then I bent the clamp bracket over the body of the angle grinder from 2 mm steel.

To this clamp welded a bolt and connected the angle to the mounting part. To all received construction I have welded a tube 50X50 with apertures for fastening to a hub.

With the bolt to adjust the angle grinder position relative to the table. Then welded to the base of a 60th angle. it will be attached to the channel. I estimate the position and drill the channel and the angle bracket under it. Fixing bolts will be different. M10 and M12, it’s because of the second adjustment, the channel has to rotate a little by enlarging the holes for bolts.

Next I welded two more pipes. guides for the clamping mechanism, and reinforced the construction with two pieces of 50th angle.

Then, on top of all that, I welded a sheet of 4 mm thick. I even tried but it did not turn out the perfectly even surface, there are differences in 1-1,5 mm, but in practice it does not influence on accuracy of cut.

Now it is possible to assemble installation. I additionally reinforce the channel and the main bracket with angles. The total weight of the setup is still not critical, but it’s already pretty interesting.

Next was the longest and most painful part. the tooling for the job. This is the workpiece stop and clamp, this is the return spring, this is the table expander. Let’s start with the workpiece stop. We take a piece of 50th angle, and weld a small rectangle to it.

Now you have to cut an arc in it, so you can cut the workpieces at any angle. With the help of a template first I drill holes in the arc. Then I mill the arc completely.

Now for the clamping device. The screw is taken from the old and bent eighth jack. I reasoned that it would be better than a normal Chinese stud. I ground the end of the screw to 6mm and cut the thread.

For the moving part the most difficult part was to make the axle. I made it from the shank of that Chinese stud, I should say. I didn’t use lathe, I milled it to needed diameter by angle grinder, though with some help.

It remains to fix the nut. The presser was supposed to be detachable, so it was bolted on, and the threads were cut right into the table. The jack nut was welded with pieces of 4 mm steel.

Since the jack was ready, I decided to cut the pipe for the legs of the table, at the same time to see how it all works. As a result, I made a cut at the stop of the workpiece. the angle grinder’s gear body was set in it. Also later trimmed the width of the vice.

By the way, on the photo you can see the wing-nuts. I did one cut with them. Never use wing-nuts in these places, the manual force is not enough to fix the stopper well. This is an invaluable experience. the nuts are loose, the disk is blown to shreds. Now there are regular nuts, I always tighten very tight.

Next is a return spring. Like a spring I thought it would be a spring, but it ended up being something cooler. I realize I made it a little more complicated, but the result was worth it. Here I imagined what a powerful spring is needed to hold the angle grinder, and that the force at the end of the cut should not be small. In addition, after the cut you have to smoothly withdraw the angle grinder upwards. And I wanted. to cut, let go and it returned smoothly to its original position. What’s needed for that?? The gas stop, of course, from the nine, has long been lying on the shelf. Also, the return system should be hidden, that is work from below. That means you need additional rods and levers. In fact it was easy enough, I would even say fast. First I made a slot in the table for the lever. I made the lever itself from a bend and through a lot of fitting gave it the desired shape. The lever mounts directly to the hub, to the original stud.

You will need some more details. the gas stop proper, long rod to it, clamp bent from the bolt M6. The stopper was there as it was. Worked the first time. At first it seemed to lift a little, but when the angle grinder got all sorts of handles and the hood, it turned out just right.

Parts of the return mechanism. The mechanism in a squeeze/unclench position.

That’s almost all. I also made a spark arrester, just a tin plate screwed into the path of the sparks. Also put a separate handle of the drive. the tube bolted to the main bracket, and to the tube. the standard side handle of the angle grinder. Of course I made an extension of the table, on the principle of tube-in-tube. Here was a problem, inside of the pipe 50X50 is a pipe 45X45. It exists in principle, but in fact it is nowhere to be found. I had to weld 4 mm bars on the pipe 40X40. There will always be two devices on the extension. an extra stop for the workpiece. is needed so that the cut part was not picked up by the disc and did not fly away, and an extra stop for “cloning” parts. if you need two or more parts of the same length do not need to measure the length before each cut.

Expanding the table and the accessories on it.

Making a Homemade Angle Grinder Stand. El Yapımı Metal Kesme Standı. DIY

Yes, I forgot about the protective cover. The original cover was lost a long time ago, it was already under the 230th disk. I have increased it where it is possible to the maximum and made to it a hinged part like on factory assembly saws.

Drawings of stands for angle grinder

There aren’t too many drawings of similar stands on the internet. Basically these are primitive sketches illustrating the principle of the device rather than the exact dimensions and the order of its assembly. And even those that are there, do not have all the necessary information.

make, stand, angle, grinder, your

And the very design of such devices quite often raises doubts about the application of such a drawing without some correction.

Therefore, we advise you not to waste time looking for them, and after carefully considering the variants of realized projects to create homemade racks for angle grinder, choose a suitable one for yourself. Or, taking into account their shortcomings, implement your own.

A cutting machine will be needed

Install them on the rectangular plate. The distance between them is slightly more than the width of the profile.

To make the stand heavier and more stable, we put it all on top of the rectangle of chipboard. Of course, we could have used a thick steel plate instead.

Screw the steel base to the wooden base in several places, having previously made holes in the steel plate.

To attach the handle you need to drill a through hole in all three sections. See

Drill two holes and hang the spring. If the lifting force proves insufficient. Put another spring in.

Now how to hang the angle grinder, it is necessary to make a hole in the handle of the profile. Let’s try the angle grinder on the place of installation beforehand.

At any time the tool can be removed and used as usual.Such a stand would definitely come in handy. It makes your work easier when you have, say, a lot of vertical cuts to make.A useful thing, minimum cost and time. the effect is obvious.Also on the modification would not be superfluous to make a limiter of movement downwards. Thank you for your attention!

Stand for the angle grinder with their own hands: drawings and projects

The project looks something like this Drawing can be drawn independently, taking into account the size and power of the product, as well as the place of attachment. The stand for the angle grinder with their own hands is made on the basis of options found on the Internet, but you should not copy them. it is better to consider photos of already finished fixtures, and, relying on them, create your project.

Important! The main tasks of the holder for the angle grinder includes not only fixing the tool, but also keeping it upright and setting the correct cutting angle.

Cutting off parts at an angle

On the design described above it is not possible to perform other operations, such as cutting the part at the desired angle or cutting through the part to a certain size. Simple modifications turn the cut-off machine into a universal machine.

For cutting at an angle you can use 2 types of devices:

The first of these is easy to make from several common angle pieces. They are screwed on the bed at a specific angle to the cutting axis, serving as a kind of guides for the parts to be cut.

The second one is more difficult to make. This is actually a pivoting device. It is usually performed in the form of a circle, but a square can also be used. It is mounted on the main frame. In it make a hole with a thread of M10 and screw in a bolt from below, which serves as an axis.

A circle is put on the bolt and tightened with a nut with a stopper or with a locknut, so that the gap is at least 0,5 mm. On the wheel is set some clamp, an angle (guide) or a vice. The last option is preferred because of the versatility of the vice.

There are three different ways of fixing the angle while turning:

In a circle make a number of holes for the commonly used angles. It is set and directly through the disk drill another one in the bed (closer to the disk of the tool), the second. through the hole opposite. Then we make M8-M10 thread with a tap or leave it as it is (for cotter pins).

  • by turning the disc, aligning the holes of the disc and the bed;
  • In them we screw in the bolts (screws) with a wing nut or insert the cotter pin.
  • Using special slots and clamps.

Has more features. Can be rotated by hand at any angle of 20 o.160 о. It differs from the first in that it has special semi-circular slots in the disc.

The versatility of the third option is obvious. It can be swiveled through 360°. If necessary, you can turn the wheel with the vice and the workpiece to be cut completely around the axis several times.

The disk is clamped with the usual metal bars. There are 4 screws (bolts) M8-M10 screwed into the frame from below, secured (for safety) by nuts. Two of them, located at the tool, are considered basic.

  • On the circle set the bars, making sure that the bolts go into their holes.
  • Nuts are tightened on the main screws. As soon as the nut reaches the bar, make one or two more turns and lock it with a locknut.
  • Screw the other two screws on the “wing nuts”.

Work with the clamp is as follows. Twist the “wing bolts”, freeing the bars. Remove them from the threads and pull them apart. Unfold the disk, throw in and clamp the bars. One extra turn of the nut gives the disk a firm grip.

What you need to do

It is desirable that the angle grinder (angle grinder) or angle grinder you have not one. constantly remove it from the rack mount, and then screw back not quite convenient. But it is up to you on the spot what to do.


Before the work, gather all the necessary materials and tools for this:

  • Angle 50×50 mm;
  • The bolts and nuts are different;
  • the spring is made of tool steel (alloy steel);
  • clamp;
  • angle grinder;
  • Locksmith angle piece;
  • electric welding
  • tape measure, straightedge or pencil.

Begin assembling

Cut two 50x50mm angles 450mm long and two 350mm long, and then make 45˚ cuts on one shelf. Put the pieces together on a flat plane and weld together to form a rectangular frame that is the base for the stand. Before you thoroughly weld the seam, check the junction with a straight edge so that it is exactly 90˚, without the slightest error. Deburr the joints with scale and grind them as usual with an angle grinder. Insert two more profiles into the frame along the length, so that the vertical shelves face the outer perimeter. The gap between these profiles should be such that the head of the bolt by 19 will be left there, and you will need it for fixation later on.

Cut two 50mm pieces of angle and weld together a 50x100x50mm Channel. Weld it to the base as shown in the top photo. it will be a support for the movable arm of the angle grinder.

Now make a homemade profile with 50x30mm cross section, as shown in the above picture. To do this, cut two pieces of 285 mm and 350 mm, and then shorten each one of the shelf to 30 mm, so you get 50×30 mm. Weld this construction.

For the lever under the angle grinder you need an additional fixing, which you make from a piece of angle 120 mm long. One shelf will need to be trimmed, leaving only 20 mm, so that the result is 50×20 mm.

Look at the picture above: it shows how you need to weld the cut out extra retainer to the lever. Don’t forget to check all angles, which must be exactly 90°, without any errors. Join these two parts into one piece.

To fix the angle grinder in the assembly you have made, you need to drill holes in the shelves as shown in the picture above.

Now attach the angle grinder to the L-shaped arm you just made. Unfortunately the factory does not provide anything for that, so you will have to make holes in the body of the power tool to fasten the whole construction with bolts, as it is shown in the photo above. Here you need to be very careful that the position of the cutting blade in relation to the frame is still the same 90°. Of course, for such fastening you can make a clamp, but it is not quite rigid and during the work a failure can happen, that is, if the disk rotates, at least by half a degree, it will simply fly away.

Now you have one more job to do, which requires increased accuracy. To move the lever up and down, a door hinge must be welded to it and to the support (homemade channel). Do not be stingy and buy in a store quality canopy, which one hundred percent exclude any backlash.

We proceed to the next stage of assembling the broaching stand, and for this you will have to sacrifice a clamp, with which you can make a mechanism for clamping (fixing) of the workpiece.

Cut off the bottom (fixed) heel. you do not need it, but to the moving heel weld a small corner. For this purpose a piece of the profile of length ≈50 mm is enough, and the shelves make ≈10 mm, only identical.

Cut a piece of the profile of length 200 mm and angle grinder make on one shelf longitudinal hole, to freely pass there a bolt on 19. this is needed to change the degree of cut of the workpiece. Drill a hole on the edge of the shelf for the hinge. Weld the clamp to the angle as shown in the top photo, without any misalignment.

Now screw your assembled unit to the bed as shown in the picture, just don’t tighten the nuts until you have the desired angle for the cut. By the way, you can set it with a school protractor.

Now you can try how accurate your stand is with the broach. Clamp some profile in it, set the necessary angle, make a cut and check the quality of work. If you have not forgotten this mantra about 90 °, then everything should turn out perfectly.

In order for the angle grinder to arbitrarily swing back when you let go of the handle, you need to screw a good alloy steel spring to the bottom of the body. To prevent this spring from sliding on the surface of the frame, drill a hole at this point and insert a bolt there, and secure the bottom with a nut. Its head should be slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the spring. Now it remains to paint all the parts and work at your pleasure.

Make your own grommet cutter from an angle grinder

Stroba. a special groove that should be cut into the wall to make the packing of electrical cables and wires. The difficulty lies in the fact that the groove must always be of a constant depth and width. Only in this case, the wire will be laid evenly and the total mortar for laying will be much less.

Stitch cutter in daily use is used quite rarely, so it would be unequal to buy it in the house. But you can easily create it yourself, using the schematics of the angle grinder. the most famous angle grinder.

The main task in this case is to install two diamond discs on the shaft of the angle grinder with a total distance of less than one centimeter:

  • Start by mounting the first disc and securing it with the nut.
  • Insert the second disc and also fasten it with a nut.
  • Check the total distance that has arisen between the two discs.
  • Install additional protection on the angle grinder.
  • Check the quality of the machine once again.

If for some reason you can not create two discs on the shaft, you can easily cut a groove and a simple method of one installed disc. To do this, you only need to cut a second line for the parallel-type trimmer.

It is necessary to work with mitre cutters in one room. In the process of work a lot of dust is formed. Even an ordinary respirator will not be able to save you from it. In order to avoid such negative effects it is necessary to create a special protective cover, which can hide several discs and will have a special spigot for connection to the vacuum cleaner.

Such a device is available on electric jigsaws for the assembly of small sawdust. In some cases, fans of rational use of the device add to the cover two or four rotating rollers. During the implementation of stroborezami movement over the surface of the entire wall, they will move evenly, not creating any load on the hands of a person at this time.

To create such a design on a wide groove, it is worth making special bushings to make the attachment of discs to the main spring. With this type of grommet cutter it is easy to create grooves for further pipe laying.

At the same time it is necessary to create a protective cover that is wider. On the hood of a reamer, wire, as well as on all pipes, it is worth installing an additional screw to adjust the level of immersion of the cutting tool inside the wall. In this case the hood will include two parts, which will be connected to each other by a hinge and a knot for adjusting the main plunge.


First of all I found components for the pivot, on which the angle grinder will rotate. For a quality cut, the joint must be powerful enough and without the slightest backlash.

I found an old shaft and a flange from a Volga pump and some bearings, including some dead ones. I assembled such a sandwich, to move bearings together as much as possible.

For the outer ring of the hinge I found a piece of pipe.

It was a little too big in diameter, so I made a slit to clamp the bearings like a clamp.

Welded a couple of angle bars and drilled holes in the right places

The second component. swivel stand with holder for angle grinder. Angle grinder mount bent out of a 2.5 mm strip.

The rest I make from profile pipe 20 x 20 mm.

I welded the mount, trying to keep the angle grinder parallel to the plane of rotation of the lever. For that, when I made the welding, I inserted rods into the fixing holes, to control the parallelism with them.

The third part. the base. It was welded from a 3 2 x 32 mm angle.

The two 20 x 20 profile tubes in the middle are guides for the adjustable stop, which should secure the workpiece.

The table is made from a plate 30 x 30 cm thick, 3 mm thick, sawn into 2 parts. It is fastened to the base with screws M5.

At the extension of the table, a 3 mm plate is welded to the base. It is for fixing the return spring, and to level the table further on the rails.

After all the fitting and adjustments I assembled the stand.

On one side it is bolted with the standard handle, on the other side with M8 bolt.

Vertical adjustment of the angle grinder. top and bottom with two stops (furniture legs).

Bearings are clamped in the cage with an M6 bolt.

The casing was screwed to the base with two bolts M6.

The hole on the right is oval to adjust the position of the cage.

The return spring is from Volga pads.

To keep it from slipping off the mount, I made a clamp from galvanized steel.

In order to accurately mark the plane of rotation of the disk, I clamped two calipers into the angle grinder instead of the disk. You can accurately and clearly adjust the position of the angle grinder by it.

First aligned the plane of the disk parallel to the longitudinal groove in the bed. For this purpose one of the holes on the hinge mount was made oval (marked with an arrow).

Then I aligned the disk plane perpendicular to the table.

This adjustment is by means of two stops which fix angle grinder.

When everything was level, I made a cut in the table with an angle grinder attached to the lever.

Now we need to make a stop to fix the workpiece at the right angle. The workpiece for the stop was a section of 32 x 32 mm angle, the same one from which the bed is made. To it welded a 2 mm plate.

To cut a half-circle groove for a clamping screw, I made a jig from scrap wood and drilled 3 mm holes in a circle.

Sawed off the bridges between the holes with a hacksaw.

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