The Muravey is a three-wheel scooter which was produced at one time by the Tula factory.
The unit has gained popularity because of its versatility of use and minimal repair costs. The functional motorcycle became an alternative option for those who were unable to buy a car in Soviet times.
The machine’s lifting capacity of 250 kg, with a weight of 240 kg, has made this vehicle essential in agriculture. Such a load on the crankshaft of the Muravy Tulica is evenly distributed.
Overview.Ant scooter with an engine from a Brait 7 liters scooter.1st part.
In this video we will look at the ant on the engine from the motor block:
Warning! You will have to open and close the carburetor choke manually.
- install the wheel at the front of the power tiller, with the correct attachment directly depends on the level of plowing depth and ease of operation;
- We make nozzles from pipes and angles, fix them with a key in special grooves and fix them with bolts to prevent shifting along the axis;
- Determine a working depth of approx. 1-1,3.2 meters, based on the work to be done.
The machine on the basis of a scooter Muravey turn out a little massive, weighing about 90 kilograms, and a little clumsy. But you don’t need special maneuverability in the garden and in the field, because there are usually no obstacles, which you often have to bypass. But the motor perfectly withstands the load, even in long and continuous operation.
When you need to move the homemade ant with a motor from the motor block over a long distance, then you should in the process of manufacturing technology to anticipate the possibility of installing the wheels, bolted through, or make an additional stand for transportation in the back of a truck or trailer.
It is also possible to make the wheels smaller and hang a plough, potato harvester or hoe.
“There’s been an old Ant in the garage for a long time. When I looked through a few relevant articles on the web, I decided to adapt the motor from the tiller to it. Came out a good assistant on the farm, economical and reliable unit. In this case, the creation of a self-made significantly cheaper, if I bought a new device “.
“Combine a single-axle tractor and an Ant. a good idea that miraculously came to mind. By making a machine, I got a unit that perfectly copes with a variety of agricultural work on their own garden plot. It not only loosens and digs up the soil, but also helps in harvesting and transporting various heavy loads. I’m very satisfied with the equipment”.
A single axle tractor from a scooter
Unfortunately, we have to admit that ready-made cultivators and power tillers, which are presented in our stores, are not designed for great performance. for 6 acres.
There are decent industrial tractors, but their are biting. And what should one do, if one has almost 20 hectares of land?? The idea to make such a single-axle tractor came to me all of a sudden, and not me, but my neighbor. an artist. He invented it, and I finalized.
How to make a single axle tractor with their own hands
The work started with the “Ant”, or rather the engine from a scooter brand T-200. To begin with rebuild. Then we make a frame. weld a 4mm thick iron plate with 4cm diameter pipes. The frame is attached rigidly with three supports to the engine.
The next stage of assembly was to install the carburetor, magneto, air filter, muffler. In order to protect the engine from overheating, I had to invent a top cover for forced cooling.
I made a chain drive from engine to the shafts with flanges (they came from an ordinary harvester). The important point is that, the frequency of rotation of the shafts can be great with the right selection of gears, but you still need to carefully calculate the size of the bottom sump on the frame. If you get carried away with one frequency, the frame will just go over the top and not reach the ground. Engine to gear ratio 4:1, in gearbox 2.5:1
Inside, all must be lubricated with oil. this is what the oil inlet and outlet hatches are for.
As a rudder. an ordinary metal pipe (for height adjustment, you can take a telescopic tube from an old vacuum cleaner). The unit runs in first gear, although there are as many as three gears. The carburetor choke is operated manually. Front of the tiller has a wheel, its installation depends on how deep you need to plow the ground, and not particularly heavy to manage. The construction has a respectable weight of just under 90 kg.
Nozzles made from the angle and pipes, on the shaft, they are fixed keyway in the slot that would not have been axial movement clamp the bolt. Width grip.1м. 20cm.
According to the results of the test it turned out. the engine withstands a passage over the virgin soil, you can plow the field on the bayonet of a spade, after 2-3 times, on the previously processed soil re-pass is not required. Because of the heavy weight, it is not very rotary, but it works well in a vegetable garden, where there are no bushes. When the homemade single axle tractor needs to be moved, I insert the wheels, which are attached with through bolts.
For the same unit planned to make a special body support for transportation in the back, as well as plans to reduce the size of the wheels and make plows, mucker and potato weeders.
Muravey scooter. tuning
Every driver dreams about improving his own vehicle. And here the imagination knows no boundaries, and external tuning is the way out of the situation. How you can ennoble a scooter Muravy. tuning will be the best solution. You can paint the fenders, hood, body and thus transform the model.
Before the work, the vehicle is carefully prepared: cleaned, sanded, degreased.
It is known that scooter owners like to use a variety of stylish trimmings and external tuning allows you to transform the device. There are many variants of external transformation of the favorite iron horse, and the owners of scooter Muravey are not alone in their desire, because the same popular model for tuning is a motorcycle Voskhod 3M. Tuning Voskhod 3M with his own hands can perform even an inexperienced motorcyclist. All you have to do is to pay attention and apply your imagination so that your old man can start playing with new colors and obtain an attractive look.
Run-in of diesel and gasoline engine
The engine running-in is performed not only after the purchase of new machines, but also after installing a new engine, after major repairs, modernization or replacement of parts of the power tiller (motocultivator).
Before starting the procedure check the correctness and quality of assembling of the equipment, fastening of all connecting bolts and the presence of required lubricants. Further algorithm is as follows:
- Pour the required amount of oil into the engine crankcase and check its level with a dipstick.
- Add the required amount of fuel (petrol A92 or diesel, depending on the type of engine) to the fuel tank.
- Check oil level sensor and relay connection.
- Open the fuel tank tap.
- Crank the engine several times without turning on the ignition. On the diesel engine it is obligatory to switch on the decompressor.
- Open the air damper of the gasoline carburetor.
- Start the engine and close the choke as it warms up.
After that, you can start the running-in period. At the first stage it is recommended to start with low revolutions, gradually and slowly increasing them to values just above average. It is necessary to work on all the gears of the walking tractor for 1-2 hours at a time. This tests not only the engine, but also the gearbox.
The second stage involves working on cultivating, plowing and carrying small loads (up to 200 kg). It is very important at this stage not to exceed the permissible load of the single-axle tractor as specified in the operating manual. Example: If the maximum depth of cultivation specified in the instruction manual is 30 cm, the depth of the tiller during the test drive must not be more than 15 cm.
Running-in of a diesel engine is not principally different from that of a gasoline engine, but it is important to remember that any engine does not like prolonged idling with the use of high revolutions. This is a very common mistake which leads to serious consequences, up to and including engine overhaul. For different crawlers the running-in process may take up to 10 hours.
After completing the running-in of the engine and the power tiller it is necessary to change the oil in the crankcase and transmission to a new one, based on the recommendations in the instruction manual.
Materials were used:
Installation of new engine began with removal of the old engine and its subsequent washing, cleaning and bulkhead, so in the future planned to use it as a gearbox for a new engine.
This is the condition the scooter was in before the repair.
Further has tried on the new engine on a place of the native, as on dimensions it is more and it was necessary to cut off pipes on which a seat and facing is established.
To connect the engine and the gearbox, I decided to use a belt drive. For this I bought 2 identical pulleys from the motor-block, but with a native seating diameter of 25 mm in the engine and 19 mm on the shaft of the gearbox, which I had ordered to the turner. Instead of the crankshaft to reduce the vibration, because by cutting the crank, upset the balance of the crankshaft, and it is not good. All dimensions were taken from the crankshaft with only a change to the pulley.
While waiting for the new shaft, rebuilt the gearbox and plugged it on the frame twisting the old engine mounts and welded them in place, the most convenient that in this location the new engine rotation coincides with the rotation of the native engine, which means no need to bother with the reducer, flip it and rebuild on the other side, etc. д. The gearbox mounts were aligned in the middle of the frame support tube and at a distance corresponding to the gearbox mounts, simply by welding them on.
Next was cut out a piece of plywood (template), which I used to cut a 10 mm board for the engine mount.
Using high-precision rack, the engine was aligned by pulleys, drilled holes in the plate and secured the engine and eccentric tension pulley with “Renault Logan” (then was replaced by a roller VAZ because it has bumpers that do not allow the belt to slip).
I bought a longer clutch cable and made the first “test-drive”, which showed that this system should be. I started a complete disassembly of this scooter with replacement of bearings and many other things for further cleaning of dirt and old paint and subsequent painting and reassembly.
I will summarize: the engine power is enough “by the eye”. gear ratio of internal combustion engine and gearbox 1:1. The maximum speed is 45-50 km / h, which on rural roads is enough.
The process of replacing the internal combustion engine on a scooter Muravey, you can also look at this
If you are going to disassemble the engine after removing it, it is better to drain oil from it beforehand while it is standing on the frame. One more thing: as we have to get under the scooter in any case and unscrew something there. look for a bedding for some old sweatshirt or peacoat
Disconnect feed hose from carburettor
Unscrew the two nuts fixing the carburetor to the cylinder and remove it from the side, so it does not interfere
At your discretion: either remove sprocket cover and take it aside or disconnect only speedometer cable from it. makes no difference
Look for the lock on the rear wheel drive chain and disconnect it. I don’t know about you, but I couldn’t find the lock on my test one. Some idiot riveted the chain right in place. We had to cut it.
Disconnect cable of clutch actuator. When the moment is right, if possible. remove the cable from the frame and check its suitability
No matter how you turn it, winding lever will only hinder us. unscrew it
Unscrew the two nuts on the flange fixing the silencer elbow
The muffler, which will prevent us from removing the engine is attached to the frame with two bolts. Unscrew the bolts and remove it together with the crankshaft or separate on the spot and remove separately. makes no difference
Unscrew the transmission rod and throw it on the ground
Disconnect the breaker contact wire from the coil
Disconnecting the ground wire. The ground wire is on the bottom of the engine just behind the muffler elbow. It is attached to the engine with a 10 lug nut
Remember the location and unscrew the diostarter cables from the voltage regulator. After unscrewing the terminals. remove the wiring harness from the frame
The engine is attached to the frame at three points: one at the very bottom and two others at the front and rear. Unscrew the bolts that hold the engine to the frame. For convenience. bolts on engine can be not removed, and instead of them unscrew only brackets from frame
The front attachment point is just behind the muffler bend. I don’t bother and unscrew only the bracket bolts
The bottom mounting point is under the engine. Unscrew the nut and take the bolt out of the mount
The last point is in the back
Dump the engine out on the left side. If your engine has been rebuilt for a magneto, remove it before removing the engine, just in case. This will be more convenient and the work will pass without consequences for the magneto, and therefore for your wallet
Reworking a Muraha with your own hands. the metalist’s guide
Motorola Ant today, unfortunately, already removed from production and sales of the manufacturer. But it is still possible to purchase the old model.
These motor scooters have already managed to conquer the mass of the drivers because of their characteristics. vantage capacity in comparison with motorcycles, affordable price, ease of operation. all this makes the model a priority among other motor vehicles.
Well, I broke the MOTORBLOCK. How SO, Motor Sich ??? We arrived again
Characteristics of the motor-car Muravy:
According to the official documentation motor scooter Moore has the following parameters:
- Vans lifting capacity. 250 kg,
- load range. 1250 1130 mm,
- The height of the loading platform is 600 mm,
- gross weight. 240 kg,
- on the radius of turn. 3.5 м,
- Maximum permissible speed. up to 60 km/h,
- fuel consumption. about 6l/100km,
- single-cylinder engine,
- Fuel reserve. up to 13 l,
- Control gear: 4-speed
- independent, hydraulically driven wheels.
As can be noted, the characteristics of the model is very attractive. The Muraha is a motor-car, which is worthy of respect.
Every driver dreams about improving his own vehicle. And here the imagination knows no bounds, and external tuning is the way out of the situation. How You Can Improve a Motorola Muraha. Tuning is the Best Solution. It is possible to carve body parts, hood, bodywork and thus remake the model.
Before the work is complete, the vehicle is thoroughly prepared: cleaned, grinded and degreased.
As you know, owners of motor-cars like to use different stylish enhancements and external tuning allows transforming the device.
Varying external transformations of the favorite carriage there are many, and the owners of the motorcycle Muravy not alone in their desire, because the same popular model for tuning is a motorcycle Voskhod 3M.
Tuning of Voskhod 3M can be performed by own hands even by inexperienced motorcyclist. Just pay attention to this and use your imagination so that your grandfather will be decorated with new headlamps and will get a decent external view.
Motorola Muravy. device is powerful, but most owners do not mind increasing the capacity of the model vantazhopidnymni. In addition, you can rebuild the body and make it folding (like a samoskid).
But there are some nuances and the main thing is not to overdo it. As you know, vantage capacity is up to 250 kg, but in practice they can carry a lot of loads. But it should be noted that with this kind of loading speed will be much higher (up to 35 km/h).
You can increase the loading capacity by enlarging the sides. But it is necessary to strengthen the frame of the scooter.
Welding can be considered the most optimal variant, but you can enter without it (making an additional frame made of wood).
In this situation the body shrinks forward or stays where it is, but it is not allowed to be removed from the rear.
There is a possibility of considering the option and installing special booths on motorcycles which require special expenses.
For self-skimming, these mechanisms are often used:
As for the hydraulics, you also need to use a pump. The overall cost of such an approach can exceed the cost of the motorcycle.
Consider the variants of the idea:
With the use of automation.
The body is attached to the additional frame, which is attached by means of ball joints to the main frame.
Can be lifted using rhombic jack, which functions by simple electric drive.
The electric drive itself can be easily built using sloped cylinders of a simple car. This is the essence of the automatics, when the body is switched by pressing a single button.
The only disadvantage of this conversion is the end cost of the work. Price depends on the spare parts used.
The body, as well as in automatic way, is mounted on additional frame. The frame is also attached to the main frame.
The advantage of this method is that you can just take off the body when needed (e.g. when you need to transport long pipes, etc.).д.). These long objects can be mounted directly to the frame.
The hinges should be secured with lanterns to prevent the hinges from tilting. And the closures can serve as common door handles from household appliances or mechanics from a car.
When constructing a removable body, it will be necessary to mount the tank, license plate, turn signals directly to the frame (do not stray from the body). It is necessary to make sure that the center of the shaft was close to the axis of the hinges (about 30 cm with respect to the rear edge). Only in this way the body will be without problems.
High-frequency transformer with their own hands
So, today’s motorized car Muravy. is not only zasyb for shifting, but also powerful mini-motor-skid in the home environment.
Despite the fact that this device has not been available on the car market for a long time, it is still worth trying to buy it by hand.
Thus, due to small forces from a simple moped, we gain powerful self-skid and cool vehicle.