Chuck replacement and options for solving problems

In the household, the most popular tool is the electric drill. Electric drills, called peorators, have recently become very popular. This tool allows you not only to drill a hole, but also with the use of nozzles to screw nuts, self-tapping screws, screws. An electric drill is a reliable tool and rarely, but fails. How to troubleshoot power drills. The main faults in drills are divided into mechanical and electrical.

Classification

Only keyhole chucks with Morse taper have the corresponding requirements according to GOST 8522-79, meeting the indication on the gost correspondence to the size used at the given size of the Morse taper can be determined from the table. Quick-clamp has no taper, but unlike its counterpart with a key has an internal thread, the range of which is necessarily specified in the marking.

Three cam

The marking most often looks like this (on the products of Russian manufacturers):

  • PSK 3-16 refers to the range of drill diameters in mm;
  • KM B12; B16; B18. which indicates the Morse taper of the connecting hole;
  • GOST 8522-79. this designation in the marking unequivocally indicates compliance for all parameters in the table made in 79.

The marking on the quick-clamp has only an indication of the size of the internal thread and the range of diameters of the drills to be clamped.

quick-change, chuck, drill

Three-jaw chuck for a drilling machine, with locking of drill bit by key, corresponds not only to GOST 8522-79, but its Morse taper meets the CEV 148-75 standards. What makes the drill chucks manufactured in Russia in accordance with GOST 8522-79 suitable for the drilling machine tools of foreign manufacturers working according to international standards.

GOST 8522-79 dimensions are a strict indication of the correspondence of the dimension type to the range of clamping and permissible radial run-out. At the same time compliance with the basic parameters is not an indication of a particular design. Drill chucks can look in different ways:

  • in the shape and length of the working part;
  • The presence or absence of a plastic, protective housing;
  • method of fastening of main parts of the chuck to each other,
  • alloy color.

Morse taper changes upwards with increasing size number. Radial runout tolerances change with size.

For example Morse taper B16 is available in size 10 and 13 drill chucks. These figures correspond to the upper parameter of drill bit clamping, the lower one is set by GOST 8522-79. With Morse cone B18 the chuck 6 is made according to the same table. Its minimum stop is 3 mm, the maximum stop is 16 mm.

The quick-action keyless chuck must be selected according to the size of the fixture hole and the machine thread. Key chucks with Morse taper have the advantage. Cone adapters allow you to mount chucks with smaller or larger Morse tapers on your machine tool, expanding your machine tool capabilities.

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The toughest quick-change chuck, but also the most expensive, is the precision quick-change chuck. It is ideal for machines that work at high speeds. Tapered shanks make the precision quick-action chuck versatile.

Chuck classification

There are several varieties:

Quick-change chucks change bits or drills in seconds without the need for any additional tools. They are divided into one-and two-coupling types.

In the latter version, in order to attach the drill, you have to hold the sleeve with one hand and screw the other. One-feed chucks have a locking system that can be activated by changing tools. The disadvantage of such products is the low strength of fixing drills. In addition, the use of plastic parts greatly increases the risk of damage to the chuck.

Cam chucks are better suited for impact drills and rotary drills. They are more durable, so they are often used for working in hard conditions. No plastic elements are installed in these products, and the fastening of tools is done with a special key.

There are also collet SDS chucks that were created in the 1970s. In the shank of this design there are two grooves, whose size is 10 mm.

With this system, part of the drill bit has to be screwed into the chuck by 40 mm. It is fixed by locking balls. Besides, there are 4 grooves in the construction, 2 of them are fixing grooves and the rest are used for guiding wedges. The spindle of the device equipped with this design automatically locks immediately after installation.

Other problems during disassembly

Sometimes there are other problems during disassembly. For example, if the drill chuck is jammed. It is necessary to disassemble the mechanism and perform its complete cleaning, lubrication. Especially such troubles appear after drilling the ceiling. Dirt can fall into the chuck. In this case it can jam.

If the chuck is loose, it is necessary to increase the tension in the cone connection. To do this, you need to heat the mechanism to 110ÂșC in the oven. After that, it is installed on a cold seat. After such a procedure, the chuck will not fly off.

There can also be a run-out when the tool works. It occurs due to wear of the tapered base or uneven breakage of the cam surfaces. In this case, you need to replace the old elements of the system.

Having considered how to change the chuck on the drill, almost every master will be able to repair the tool to continue repair or construction work.

Electric drill. a necessary mechanism in the arsenal of a craftsman or specialist. This equipment makes it possible to drill holes of different thicknesses. There are a number of types of such tools. If you work long hours, the equipment can break, and the most common “problem” part is the chuck. That’s why you should know how to replace a drill chuck so that you won’t end up without a tool if it breaks.

The essential points at a glance

Drill and rotary screwdriver chucks have different designs.

The fixation of cartridges to the shaft of a mechanical tool is carried out in two ways: threaded or tapered connection (Morse taper).

Dismantle the clamping devices in the same sequence as the installation.

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Know the procedure not only for replacing or repairing a defective chuck but also for its periodic maintenance and inspection.

The faces of the fixing screw of the chuck what to do

What to do if the faces of the screw heads inside the chuck have slipped off? A very common problem, but very real to solve. First, let’s consider the reasons why the screw faces are slipping:

  • Without reading the instructions, the owner tries to unscrew the screw in a counterclockwise direction. If there is a screw inside, it must be turned clockwise to unscrew it, i.e. the other way round
  • Improperly selected tool, that is, a screwdriver with slits is used, which licks the edges of the screw. Before using it, you should pick up the screwdriver as correctly as possible
  • Poor quality screw. It is a common problem with cheap Chinese devices

However, if the edges of the screw have slipped off, do not rush to change the tool. There are different ways to unscrew it:

  • If the screw head is Phillips-head but the edges are flattened, you can use a flathead screwdriver. Manufacturers have provided for the possibility of slipping edges, so you can unscrew a screw not only with a Phillips screwdriver, but also with a slotted screwdriver. This method usually helps to solve the problem
  • Use a blowgun to try to clean the dirt inside the flat bar. There is often a lot of dirt accumulated at the flat bar that prevents a good connection with the screw
  • Hold a screwdriver against the head of the screw and apply firm but light strokes. Screwdriver will deepen inside the head of the screw chuck, which will increase the likelihood of unscrewing it
  • Cut off a piece of rubber and placing it over the flat, try to catch the remaining faces with a screwdriver and make unscrewing
  • If all methods have been tried, then the only choice is either to disassemble the electric screwdriver or drill, followed by the replacement of the actuator with the shaft from the gearbox or an angle grinder to cut the chuck. Once the screw head is accessible, it can be unscrewed using a manual vice. The cartridge must be replaced after this method

It is not necessary to change the complete tool at all.

The faces of the chuck retaining screws have flattened out What to do?

What to do if the faces of the screw head inside the chuck have slipped off? A very common problem, but very real to solve. First let’s look at the reasons why the screw faces are slipping off:

  • Without reading the instructions, the owner tries to unscrew the screw in a counterclockwise direction. If there is a screw inside, it must be turned clockwise to unscrew it, that is, the other way around
  • The wrong tool is being used, i.e. a screwdriver with slits is being used that are licking off the edges of the screw. Before use, you should pick up the screwdriver as properly as possible
  • Poor quality screw. It is usually found on cheap Chinese devices

However, if the edges of the screw have slipped off, do not rush to change the tool. There are different ways to unscrew it:

  • If the screw head is Phillips-head, but the edges are flattened, you can use a flathead screwdriver. Producers have foreseen the possibility of slipping edges, so you can unscrew the screw not only with a Phillips screwdriver, but also with a slotted screwdriver. This method usually solves the problem
  • Use a blowgun and try to clean the dirt inside the flats. Often a lot of dirt accumulates in the head and prevents a good connection to the screw
  • Take a screwdriver and put it to the head of the screw, making several light but sharp strokes. The screwdriver will go deeper inside the screw head of the chuck, making it more likely to unscrew
  • Cut off a piece of rubber and place it over the head and try to catch the remaining faces with a screwdriver and unscrew it
  • If all methods are tried, it remains only or to disassemble the electric screwdriver or a drill with the subsequent replacement of the actuator together with a shaft from the gear or an angle grinder to cut a chuck. Once the screw head is accessible, it can be unscrewed using a manual vice. The socket must be replaced after this method
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There is no need to change the entire tool at all.

About the bits

There are several types of drills and other bits for the torch:

  • Standard straight drills. needed for drilling holes in brick, concrete or stone.
  • Teeth are needed for making not very deep, but wide holes. for junction boxes for electric wiring, etc. For concrete it is better to use diamond-tipped bits.
  • Chisels. can be used for removing tile or similar work. Tip of the chisel is not hardened, it must be periodically sharpened.
  • Spikes. often used to create holes for pipes.
  • Spade-shaped drills. for making conduits for electrical wiring.

The main part of the nozzle. the shank. It is the one that is inserted into the chuck of the peorator. It is made of alloy steel and has high strength. There is a marking on the shank, indicating the type of bit.

Working part is made of special steels for durable contact with especially hard nonmetallic materials: concrete, stone.

The shape depends on what the bit is used for:

  • Screws. needed to create deep holes of different diameters.
  • Bits with a shallow helix groove slope. best used for a large number of shallow holes. Does not require great force during work.
  • Drills with a large angle of inclination of the helix grooves. can be recommended for high-speed work in order to make a small number of rather deep holes.

Help: The working part of the drill ends with a tipped cutting part. Each manufacturer keeps the composition of the alloy secret. The durability of the nozzle and the efficiency of the work depends on it.

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