How to remove a chuck from a drill
Among the most common mechanical malfunctions can be attributed to the failure of the chuck. And how to remove the chuck from an electric screwdriver and replace it? Immediately note that the replacement of the chuck on the electric drill, electric screwdriver, peorator is exactly the same. The cause of chuck failure is most often the wear and tear of the chuck jaws. This is the most serious fault of an electric drill. Without a complete replacement of the chuck can’t be avoided. And how to remove the chuck from the drill will show the video.
By the way! The given way of replacement of the chuck is suitable for any modern models not only electric drills, but also peoratorov, screwdrivers, as all the given designs provide exactly this way of fastening the chuck.
On Soviet-made drills, the chuck is held in place by a Morse cone and tightened by a screw. And how to remove the chuck from the cone? You can use a bearing puller to do this, or you can knock it off with a hammer.
Note! If you buy a new power tool with a chuck, be sure to remove the chuck and carefully lubricate all mating parts and threads. https://www.YouTube.com/embedded/6j2Kyg. https://YouTube.com/watch?v=6j2Kyg
N8vfY1. To disassemble the electric drill check that the electric drill cable is disconnected from the electric mains. Use the special wrench to extend the cams of the chuck to the highest possible position. If to look inside the opened chuck, more often it is possible to see the screw designed for fastening the cam chuck to the electric motor shaft. Typically, the screw is unscrewed with a Phillips head screwdriver.Remember! The fixing screw has a left hand thread and can be removed by turning the screwdriver clockwise. Remove the screw and put an L-square wrench in place of the drill bit in the chuck and clamp it.
If the screw has a chipped head and you can’t use a screwdriver to remove it, proceed like this. Take the second drill, put a drill bit with the diameter of the screw head in it and proceed to drill out the screw. The end result is that the screw will come out when you drill it out.
Insert a wrench on the motor shaft at the base of the chuck. There are models where the clearance between the chuck and the housing is very small. You have to pick up a wrench or saw to the thickness. The key is necessary for fixation of the electric motor shaft. Earlier models have no key slots on the shaft. In this case, take apart the body of the drill and remove one cover. Clamp the power pinion of the chuck shaft and cooling fan at the same time and with a sharp counterclockwise movement try to unscrew the chuck.
But let’s get back to the wrench version. Now, with the drill on a wooden surface and locking the shaft with the wrench, hit the protruding tail of the hex key with a wood or rubber mallet counterclockwise. The chuck is fastened to the shaft by the thread. Rotating the chuck counterclockwise, remove it from the drill. If you do not have an L-shaped hex key, you can use a drill with a suitable diameter, which is inserted into one of the three holes for the wrench.
Inspect the chuck. If the cams are completely out of order, replace the chuck on the drill with a new one. Install the new chuck on the drill in reverse order. Remember! When installing the new chuck, be sure to lubricate all rubbing parts. This is especially true for the threaded connections.
This is the case when you need to replace the cam chuck. But power tools are also available with quick-action chucks.
Quick-action chucks enable drill changes in seconds without the need for any additional tools or fixtures. Quick-change chucks are divided into one sleeve and two sleeve chucks. The one-handed chuck has a special locking mechanism that locks the shaft when you change the tool. One-handed operation is possible. Double clutch chuck allows tool changes with two hands. One hand holds the first socket and the other hand twists the other socket. But quick-action chucks do not hold tools reliably, especially in impact operation. And using plastic to make them often causes chucks to break. The cam chuck is more reliable, and the parts used in it are made only of metal. Tool clamping key must be used to clamp the tool.
Chucks are designed to hold a replacement bit while you perform torque or reciprocating machine movements inside a power tool. Depending on the type of tooling used, different clamping devices are used. Thus, there are three main types. Let’s consider each option in more detail.
Otherwise, such a device for a drill chuck is called a key chuck. The reason is that to fix the nozzle with a diameter of 1-16 mm here you need to change the position of the clamps using a special key. This fact is considered a plus because of the reliability of work and a minus because of the compact device, which is often lost. Such a device is installed on a drill.
To control the clamps here you need to rotate the sleeve itself without using additional devices. The device is often mounted on cordless drills, screwdrivers. Of the disadvantages here stands out the weak retention of nozzles with large diameters (limit diameters of 10 or 12-13 mm). The solution to this situation is to replace the worn chuck or to use a drill with a key counterpart.
In terms of design, these chucks can be with one or two sleeves. The first are considered unreliable because of the difficulty of repair and the presence of locks with low strength (elements of the shaft locking system). The latter are convenient to use: while the upper cylinder rotates, the skirt is held by the other hand.
This type of chuck can be mounted on rotary tools. They are remarkable in that during the rotary and reciprocating motion of the mechanism, outrunning or twisting of the bit is prevented. The shank and tooling in this case is also different. Its cross-section is not polygonal, but cylindrical with longitudinal grooves.
Within the group these chucks (Steck-Dreh-Sitzt. from German “insert, turn, the drill is fixed”) are subdivided into several subspecies:
- SDS. Diameter of double-slot shank is 10 mm. Drill depth. 40 mm. Can be used with SDS-plus bits.
- SDS-plus. SDS analogue differs in the presence of two additional shortened grooves. They serve to prevent the drill from falling out. Approved drill diameters are 4-32 mm in lengths from 110 to 1000 mm. Suitable applications. lightweight rotary hammers.
- SDS-top. Seldom used in comparison with the second variant. Such chuck is installed on the medium weight tool. The shank diameter of the bits is 14 mm, the auger up to 32 mm. The plunging depth of the tools is 70 mm. Slots. two pairs: short and long.
- SDS-max. Commonly used for drills over 20 mm in diameter (heavy equipment). Shank with three long and two short slots has 18 mm section, deepens for 90 mm.
- SDS-quick. The shank has lugs for locking and a hexagonal cross-section that enables bits and drills to be used. Drills are limited to 10 mm in thickness.
- SDS-hex. This is a specialized tool chuck for use with chisels and picks. Mounted on demolition hammers.
As you can see, these units differ from drill chucks in the lack of clamping blades. The chuck is held in place by grips built into the body and inserted into the slots of the shank. No risk of falling out due to ball and spring retention. This explains the different bits and accessories depending on the chuck design. The bits are inserted by pressing them in until they “click” into place.
Method of dismantling the chuck
Clamping screws are removed in consideration of the left-hand thread.
The threaded element is located on the inside of the device, so first the jaws are maximally moved apart, thus providing access to the fixing screw, which can be unscrewed with an ordinary Phillips screwdriver. In drills without this screw, the chuck is twisted off the shaft without the preparatory work described above.
The left-handed screw that secures the chuck can wear out later on. In order to restore the reliability of the connection, it is recommended to do the following:
These actions will not damage the drill mount and allow the clamping device to be clamped more accurately and securely on the drill.
The screw chuck can be replaced with a 14 mm spanner. In order to avoid mistakes, it is advisable to read the theoretical material and watch the corresponding video.
To replace a worn chuck, the old clamping device is removed from the drill and a new one is installed. Both regular and mini-drill chucks with threaded and tapered connections are available.
When replacing on drills with threaded chucks, it is important to consider the markings that look like this:
The interval 1.5-13 indicates the minimum and maximum diameters of the cutting tool. The new chuck must have the same marking as the old one.
Materials and tools:
First remove the chuck from the drill or drilling machine. Its cams are separated, and then a Phillips screwdriver is inserted between them.
The chuck is held in place by a left-hand threaded screw. To remove it, you need to rotate the tool clockwise. Sometimes there are screws with sprockets, so an appropriate screwdriver will be needed.
Having removed the screw it is necessary to unscrew the cartridge from a shaft of the drill. This is done counterclockwise. If the drill is used for a long time, it is not so easy to unscrew by hand. You have to fix the shaft. Often, the chuck has a chamfer for a spanner that will facilitate the removal process. If it is absent, it is better to remove the cartridge with a pipe wrench.
After removing the chuck it should be turned around with the cams down and hit with a small hammer on the center of the back of the chuck. This is done by weight. Use your hand to squeeze the outer cage of the cartridge and hit with the striker. It is not possible to insert it from below because the cage does not have a projecting face. If the cartridge is rusted and does not come out, it is worth first apply penetrating lubricant such as WD-40.
As a result, a clamping mechanism consisting of a base, 3 removable cams and a nut cut in half with slits for a special key should come out of the cage.
Then the nut halves are put in place, and the mechanism is returned to the cage. To assemble it to the end, you need to hit with a hammer already on the cage until it sits. It is better to do it with the weight.
Screw the lubricated and assembled chuck clockwise onto the shaft of the drill, then tighten the locking screw.
It happens that during disassembly the slits of the screw are worn out, then it is better to replace it or cut a new notch on it with a metal saw. If you oil the chuck from the beginning after you bought the drill, it is easy to take it apart and it serves much longer, so it is better not to put it off.
How to use the screwdriver
It is possible to ensure long functionality of the tool if you follow the simple rules of operation:
- keep the machine free from moisture;
- Always adjust the tool before use;
- Disconnect the battery while changing accessories;
- If you do not use it for a long time, periodically start the screwdriver to discharge the battery;
- have several spare batteries.
Changing a screwdriver chuck in the DIY industry is something every man can do. Using the methods described above, you are guaranteed to complete this operation quickly and with a minimum of effort.
Why do it
In every drill, there is a very important part of the chuck that locks the bits firmly in place for the respective work. The chuck functions on a cam principle, i.e. the bits are held in place by a clamping mechanism between three/four cams. The jaws are cone-shaped and move only in one longitudinal direction.
Dismantling and disassembling a drill chuck is not only necessary when a drill bit or bit jams in this device. Often craftsmen want to expand the functionality of their drill, which is also the reason for dismantling the product. There are two basic types of chucks: key chucks and quick-action chucks. Quick-clamping devices are not repairable, so if they malfunction, they need to be replaced. Keyed or cam-operated devices can be repaired depending on the type of failure.
Keyhole chuck repair may be necessary if the drill bit is not securely fastened. To ensure a secure fit, the chuck will need to be disassembled and the jaws cleaned of debris. If the cams show no signs of damage, they should be lubricated with grease and then installed back on the drill.
How to remove and replace a threaded chuck
Not all drill chuck owners know how to change a chuck in a drill. But sooner or later there comes a time when the product fails, resulting in the need to unscrew the device for its replacement or repair. How to do this, we will learn further.
The threaded chuck has a simple locking device design. To remove it, you will need to use a Phillips screwdriver, and sometimes a flathead screwdriver. To clarify which screwdriver will be required, the cams of the product should be hidden inside. Inside you will see the head of the fixing element, which should be unscrewed in a clockwise direction.
After the fixing screw will be unscrewed, you can proceed to the dismantling of the device itself. To remove the cartridge, unscrew it in an anticlockwise direction. If you cannot unscrew the product by hand, you can fix the tool in a vise, and then use a plumber’s wrench. This is a simple way to remove screw chucks from drills or screwdrivers.
Thread fastening. implies the presence of a metric or inch thread on the drill. When buying a new chuck, it is important to know information such as thread diameter, as well as pitch. This information is usually found on the side of the cartridge. Replace in the reverse order of removal.
Removing and replacing the tapered chuck
Now consider how to remove the taper chuck from the drill. Such products are also called Morse taper, in the Honor of the Founder. Usually the disassembly of such variants does not cause difficulties, but to remove it you will need to use a special device. It can be used to remove the tapered chuck from the drill quickly and easily.
If you do not even have such a device, you can do without it. The disassembly process consists of the following steps:
- The tool is firmly secured in an upright position, so that the drill is pointing downwards.
- Using a hammer, you need to apply light blows to the entire surface of the device to make it come out of the grip.
- Knock it out until the device is completely out of the cone.
Once the chuck has been removed, it can be replaced with a new one. This is done by hammering the product into place with a mallet and mallet. If one of the cams or springs is damaged, it needs to be replaced.
How to remove the drill bit from a damaged chuck
It is very common to encounter a situation where the drill bit jams tightly in the drill chuck. There is only one question as to how to get it out? In order not to have to dismantle the device, the jammed drill bit should be removed in this way:
- The drill should be clamped horizontally in a vice to prevent breakage.
- Fix the body of the drill at a standstill.
- Take a hammer and then tap the surface of the chuck with light strokes.
- If the problem persists, knock more sharply, but not too hard, so as not to damage the workpiece.
- Apply the blows directly tangentially to the sleeve, and continue until the bit shank is moved out of the jaws.
Remove the jammed drill bit or nozzle from the old Soviet drill using two plumbing wrenches. Use one wrench to securely lock the shaft of the drill, and use the second wrench to turn the chuck. If the movement is not carried out, it is necessary to make a strong blow with a hammer on the wrench.
Important to know! To avoid the nozzles jamming in the drill jaws, you should regularly lubricate the jaws with normal motor oil.
How to disassemble the chuck on the drill
Disassembly is necessary in order to extend the service life of the product. In the process of disassembly the parts are cleaned and lubricated. The disassembly can be carried out as follows:
- Use a peorator with a special adapter, which is put on a cam chuck with threaded connection.
- The cams should be hidden inside.
- From the end of the device, a sheet of Styrofoam or styrofoam. After that, the back side of the foam should be against the wall.
- The torque wrench is started in impact mode. Within 2-3 seconds the chuck will be disassembled.
The video describes the disassembly process in more detail. The video also shows how to reassemble it. There are many other disassembly options, but the simplest and most acceptable is the one described above.
Design and features of the toothed chuck
The classic drill chuck refers to collet or cam-type chucks. Not only different tools with a round shank can be fastened in them, but also cylindrical workpieces for further processing. The main design elements of clamping cam chucks are:
- The body is cylindrical in shape;
- Adjustment ring or sleeve rotating on the outer surface of the housing;
- A cam or collet mechanism mounted on the inside of the chuck body.
Design of the cam (toothed-ring) chuck with a key
In turn, the collet mechanism, whose elements are made of hardened steel, consists of three absolutely identical cams, which, when rotating the adjusting ring or sleeve, simultaneously approach each other, thus ensuring reliable clamping of the tool shank. In the first models of chucks for mechanical drills, the jaws of the collet converged by rotation of the adjusting wheel, now for this purpose an adjusting sleeve is used.
One side of the drill chucks is installed on the shaft of the used device, and the other side is used to insert the tool, with which the machining will be carried out. Jaw chucks are mainly used to hold the following tools in them:
A cam drill chuck is designed for clamping bits with a cylindrical or hexagonal shank
Varieties of drill chucks. How to remove the chuck, how to choose the right one
Any master who has in his farm an electric drill, may encounter a situation that the chuck in the drill begins to beat (lost center) and the drill goes from side to side, as a result of which the normal work will not get. Either the cams on the chuck are just worn out, which can happen over time. In this case you need to replace the chuck with a new one. How to choose it correctly?
There are several kinds of drill chucks. There are threaded, there are tapered, which are just put on, not screwed on. Consider them in more detail so as not to make a mistake when choosing.
Is put on the drill by screwing it on the pin with a thread, which is located on the drill. There are two main varieties of threaded chuck. They differ in types of threads. Have a marking (1,5-13 M121).25) and (1.5-13 1/2. 20 UNF)
The figures 1.5-13 mean the maximum and minimum diameter of the drill shank, which can be clamped in the chuck. The minimum 1,5 mm, the maximum. 13mm, goes and 13,5, checked personally. On some chucks the minimum clamped diameter is 2mm. M12 means you have a 12mm bottom hole. 1.25 or 1/2. 20 UNF. these are different kinds of threads, the first metric, the second inch.
Choose correctly, chucks are not interchangeable, if there is a marking on the chuck M121.25, then take it. If M121/2. 20 UNF. only this. If the inscription has worn off, you have to remove the chuck from the drill, take it with you to the store.
How to remove it? To do this, twist the chuck counterclockwise. Sometimes the chuck is additionally secured with a screw that is centered in it,
this screw has a left-hand thread, t.е. is unscrewed clockwise, not counterclockwise as usual. First unscrew the chuck (spread the cams), then twist the screw with a simple Phillips screwdriver Then you can twist the chuck itself counterclockwise, it has a standard thread. It can be very difficult to do, because it is very tightened in time. To remove it, you can use a pipe wrench to grip it firmly, for example, take number two. You can use help of a friend, one holds the neck of the drill with one wrench, the other twists the chuck itself with another wrench. Especially if the drill is old, it’s difficult without a helper.
They are put on by simply pushing them on. There are also several varieties: B10, B12, B16, B18. If there is a letter “B” in the marking on the chuck. know that it is on the cone, no threads on the bottom. The number in the chuck symbol indicates the diameter of the hole from below. the bigger it is, the bigger is the hole. In chucks B10, B12 you can clamp the drill bits with a shank of up to 13 mm maximum. But, B16, B18 chucks allow to drive drill bits with shank up to 16 mm. It is necessary to remove such chuck by knocking it out from the drill, simply and unpretentiously with a hammer. It is put on a special pin. a holder located on the drill.
Some chucks are key-operated, some are quick-action chucks (see first photo). The advantage of the rapid clamping is the quick change of drills and screwdriver bits. To disadvantages. the fact that sometimes drills can turn, especially if the shank cylindrical (round), rather than hexagonal, especially when the drill on metal of large diameter. The load is heavy and you can not tighten it by hand, what can not be said about “classic” chucks that are screwed by means of a wrench. In my opinion, it is much more reliable. The only disadvantage. you can lose the key, for this it is logical to screw it to the cable of the drill with duct tape, so it is always in its place.
There are chucks with hex shank of 1/4 inch that can clamp drills from 0,6 mm.