Review: Bosch S4 005 60Ah Battery. Not the worst.

After buying a used car, drove only a week and the starter suddenly stopped cranking. Learned the details from the previous owner. Turns out the battery was switched by a middleman at the time of sale. He went to the car market with a good one, and put the old Turkish one at the checkout. You could have used it for a while. Only the electrolyte turned out to be regular tap water. From this went a strong self-discharge. The dealer apologized and said no. He gave me a good discount. Also, as it turned out, he replaced the more expensive car stereo with a native one. As I noticed the tires were also from the cheaper, but not wiped out, you could still ride. Anyway, the discount was enough to pay it off twice. And to buy new tires, stereo, oil and filters and the battery is also a good amount left.Went to pick one out. The store I was advised specializes in Bosh. There are about ten kinds out there. Consulted with the seller. He specified the model of the car and recommended several of them. I settled on the S4. I put it in, started it up. The seller took a couple of measurements to write a warranty. It is not uncommon for the alternator to be out of order. Especially for used cars with high mileage, like mine. Over time, the brushes can wear out completely. Also diodes in voltage regulator are often punctured. Can’t rule out the starter. All of these cases can lead to unnecessary battery replacement. Just recently there was a case of. The car won’t start. The owner immediately replaced the starter and battery. Twice started and all. I told him to look at the alternator. He replaced the alternator repair kit. It’s got brushes and a voltage regulator. Everything is working. The repair kit costs 50, but the whole alternator costs 200. It’s worth the trouble. Although the time cost is more. So he changed the battery for nothing. This is the reason why sellers measure the parameters on the battery terminals to give a guarantee. He is not interested in the battery output, but the condition of the car electronics. He took a few measurements for three minutes, said OK and wrote a warranty.

Later it turned out that not everything is perfect.

Date of manufacture:The first thing that came out was that my battery had a year of dust in the warehouse before it was sold. Before installing them on the showcase, they just recharge them. Which, by the way, the salesman did not hide it when I asked to measure the voltage on it before installing it in the car. Voltage showed 12.6. is normal. On Bosch, instead of writing the date in a normal human format perverted codes that sellers without special tables are not able to decipher! This is a three-digit number punched in the side wall. For example, the code 006 means June 2010, the code 460. December 2014. How does this translate to someone who does not know?It turns out that you can find batteries on sale that have been lying around for more than three years. It’s no longer a new one, but to take to throw away. You never know in what conditions they are stored. Almost certainly the warehouses are not heated. Who will heat the room where mountains of batteries are stored?? There may be an accumulation of vapors and it must be constantly ventilated. And laying in the cold over the winter without recharging. Half of its life is gone. Now I made myself a sign not to fall for such tricks again. Year of manufacture of a Bosch battery.

remove, battery, cover, bosch

It has already served me well, helped out at least once, and probably several times at friends. So you don’t have to buy an old, new battery.

Lifetime.My Bosh S4 battery has been in good working order for five years and four months. At the end of another winter, it suddenly failed. Suddenly did not want to start the engine, although the frost on that day was not, about zero. Turned half a turn and that was it. I had to jump start the car and leave it running for half a day until I bought a new battery. Now in order:After half a year of operation, I managed to completely drain the battery on vacation. Not a single light was on in the car. I got it running in third gear from a push start. After that, it recharged itself on the car. To a full charge brought the charger in two days. After 8 months, after winter checked. Surface test showed that the battery has about two-thirds of a charge. Next, it does not want to take the current from the generator, not from the charger. No way to check electrolyte level and composition as there are no service plugs. Had to drive it as is. I kept checking the voltage every quarter. After 8 hours of parking, with the engine running, I took some voltage readings. On a fully charged it should be 12.7 volts at 20 degrees. At other temperatures there is a slight correction. When it went below 12.5 volts I took the battery off and charged it. After charging it kept it new for a while, about a month or so. Then it goes down to 12.55. 12.6 and it stays at that level. A little lower on short trips, a little higher. at long distances. It does not fully charge itself even if you drive from one startup all day. I think it’s my alternator’s fault. It has a built-in voltage regulator, it seems it is not perfect. The optimum voltage should be about 14.2 volts. But that’s because we didn’t have calcium before. Better get it up to 14.4 volts a little. And my alternator’s giving out like this. In the cold in the.20 it gave 14.6 volts for one minute. Then it goes down to 14.2 and with the engine fully warmed up it’s only 13.9. That’s not enough voltage for it to be fully charged, even if you drive a long time. The case of the alternator heats itself and heat is transferred to it from the engine, both through the air and through the mount. That’s what the voltage depends on its heating. On purpose or by accident, I don’t know. Maybe it’s just the voltage regulator itself that heats up and gives less. Or if it is done on purpose, so that the battery does not boil in summer. Then there should be a temperature sensor near it and not inside the generator. Otherwise it’s all pointless. The main problem is that Bosch is obsessed with adding calcium to the lead plates. It’s both good and bad. And the acid is less boiling in summer. But the scary catch is that the battery can’t be discharged now, especially not completely. It’ll never fully charge again. No matter how fancy chargers you use. The main question: How to use the battery without discharging it?!? What else is it for?? That is, there is a charge, but you can’t use it. If all the equipment can be turned on only on the road the comfort of the car is lost on parkings and at rest. Well, this is just some “uncomfortable” battery. Of the claimed 60 ampere hours you can only use 20 and then each time” reducing the life of the battery a couple of months. You can only put one of those on some little truck. Where the driver doesn’t think about comfort and only goes on long trips. What about the other 40 ampere hours?? They get smaller and smaller with each partial discharge and charge cycle and you just don’t know it. At a certain point. bang! and the starter is That’s what happened to me. It turns out you carry a charge that you can not use or can only use in a critical situation. I drove 5 years not knowing what was going on inside the battery. There was only one discharge. After that, used carefully as could. What else can you gauge the condition other than voltage if there is no traffic? Tried to shine a bright beam of light through the white housing, but you couldn’t see anything. Tried to minimize power consumption while parked, it was used only for the alarm. Before important trips there is no certainty, you do not know at what point you will be, when the starter will stop cranking.With this operation, perhaps I would have had it for another winter, if it were not for one unpleasant moment. In the first cold I could not start the engine. Decided it just needed warming up and started it with a tow. It was hard, but it worked. Next I stalled at traffic lights, and even in a big stream of cars. Had to drive off the road on the starter. Then it took a long time, I couldn’t get it started. In general, almost sat down. And it did not turn for a long time, it was clear that the battery had not long to serve. The reason was in the wiring, or rather in the battery door. It was enough just to wipe off the condensate from the inside, and the engine started on the almost dead battery. After that, I drove through the winter with no problems. With frosts up to.♪ 20 ♪. Didn’t even think about it anymore. As soon as it got warmer, it wouldn’t start. Almost suddenly, a couple of very sluggish turns and that was it. Tried to charge it twice, no effect. And pulses and long exposures. Just to start it twice and that’s it. Took it for a spin and went to get a new one. My mistake was not charging the battery fully before winter after it went dead. Didn’t keep a good eye on the car that winter. I had a lot of frost, the doors couldn’t be opened, and the engine compartment was never inspected. So it went away. This time I got the Turkish Halk. Just because it has maintenance covers. It’s calcium too, though. Not sure if it will last 5 years either, we’ll see. Winter’s just started and it’s already spinning sluggishly, even the lights are blinking sometimes. It’s not even a year old yet. The date of issue was fresh at the time of purchase, just brought in. The voltage was 12.6, they took it off in front of me. One more thing about the Bosch. From the bottom, the mounting bead is lower than usual. I had to put a thick piece of rubber under it to keep it from falling off. No complaints about the workmanship. I think that the technology itself is to blame. And it is this calcium with all its one pro and three cons. I almost didn’t get the Bosch helium battery this time. They promise a lifetime of 10 years. But that is also very questionable. Even the helium Bosch also has calcium plates. So they can’t be discharged either. But I did not take it for another reason. Just wanted to sell me a second-hand as a new one. Thanks to the table above I did not fall for it. It was three and a half years old. After the date, I noticed that it is unpacked and the pins are slightly, but carelessly scratched. I was too lazy to pick it up and look at the bottom and there’s a lot of scratches. Somebody’s been using it for three years and decided to replace it.

How to remove the battery cover Varta, Bosch, Atlas, Delkor, Bost, Banner

If you want to remove the cover from a Varta, Bosch, Atlas, Delkor, Bost, Banner car battery. Just relax, you can’t do that. If you want to remove the battery cover itself, which has the pole terminals on it, be aware that it is hermetically sealed at the factory and does not have to be removed. You can throw the battery away.

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If you want to take off the single cover-plate, it covers the labyrinth system for condensation of vapors, which you also can’t remove. But all depends on what you need to remove the lid from the battery. If you need to measure the electrolyte level, you can get by with weighing the battery on the scale and compare rates to the new battery. If it is necessary to measure density, it will be easier to measure voltage and have calm. If you need to add distilled water then you can be creative and make very small holes without damaging the labyrinth system and put the water in with a medical syringe. After pouring the hole, you need to solder.

Technologies used and their features

The highest quality of Bosch products is determined by the modern technology used in the manufacture of batteries. These are the features of the production:

  • High-conductivity alloy is used for the electrode plates. Thanks to this, high current values and quick recharging are achieved.
  • Particularly rugged and durable housing system with labyrinth lid. Eliminates spillage of electrolyte, makes operation safer.
  • Specially optimized electrode array design, which increases the starter current by up to 115 percent.
  • Long service life and minimal tendency to self-discharge.

In addition, the batteries of this brand are highly resistant to temperatures, both high and low. Can be used all year round without any problem.

Varta battery

Warta batteries are widespread due to their high quality and affordability. Information. how to remove the cover from the battery Varta be useful to many car owners.

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Everything is clear with Varta serviceable batteries, if you want you may open them, all you need is to have a tool for that. For Varta maintenance free batteries the whole upper part is protected by the lid. This construction can be removable or monolithic. With a monolithic construction the upper lid is “sealed” by heat welding. Is it possible to remove the cover of the Varta battery??

You need a tool to remove the top cover. In the case of fixing the cover by means of grooves you should unfasten it and take it apart. It is difficult to dismantle a battery when it is pressed. Careless actions can cause damage to the battery. That is why it is better not to dismantle the Varta battery in order to maintain its integrity.

It turns out that the cover of the Varta battery can not be removed. However, if for the maintenance of the battery Warta it is necessary to refill the working fluid, it can be done with a drill, awl or screwdriver.

Although you will not be able to remove the lid, but it is possible to drill holes for fluid refill.

To do this, the following is performed:

  • The body of the Varta battery is freed from the stickers;
  • on the lid it is necessary to find the stampings of the plugs;
  • With an awl or drill, holes are made in these places.

The procedure for drilling out the Varta battery case is quite simple, but requires a responsible approach to it, otherwise it could lead to unnecessary financial costs for the purchase of a new battery.

Long battery life significantly degrades its properties, over time you will need to replace the battery. If a closed battery is installed, you should not be in a hurry to “write it off”. Knowing how to open a model such as Varta D43 or Varta C15, you can “reanimate” it in no time.

Initially, from the battery Varta D43 or a similar model will need to remove the cover, following the specified scheme. After that access to the elements of the battery will be open, any repair will not require a lot of time.

On closed models of Warta batteries for determining the electrolyte level there are special indicators. Most batteries have translucent casings or markings that allow you to check the electrolyte level in the containers. There is also no need to remove the lid to check the electrolyte level, you can use a tube, syringe or other object that is dipped into the jar. Acceptable liquid level is 1 to 1.2 cm above plate level.

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How to turn a maintenance free battery into a serviceable one

The time comes and the car owner is no longer satisfied with the characteristics of the battery. If you have a sealed type battery you should not throw it out and buy a new one. You can make it serviceable if you open the lid in the way we described above. This will allow you to carry out a number of procedures necessary to maintain the performance of the power supply.

The ability to check and change the electrolyte level is one indication that the battery is serviceable. Closed cell batteries have an indicator light to show the electrolyte level. Some casings are made of translucent materials or are characterized by markings that help keep track of the amount of solution in all the jars. The electrolyte level can be checked using a special tube or syringe inserted into the holes made in the lid. The normal amount of solution corresponds to 10 to 12 millimeters of liquid above the plates.

Do not forget that not only the acid level but also its density is an important characteristic of battery performance. The density of the solution can be read using the areometer. Take a syringe, put it through the hole in the lid and draw the electrolyte from the tank. Pour it into the areometer and look at the reading. Too low density (less than 1.22 g/cm3 at temperatures up to 6) does not allow the battery to work properly and indicates a small amount of electrolyte and the need to replenish it. Increased density or insufficient level of solution requires topping up with distilled water.

Read more about density correction in our article: How to Use a Hydrometer.

Checking the electrolyte level with a clear tube.

We draw your attention, the excessive concentration of electrolyte leads to unfortunate consequences. sulphation and destruction of plates.

In the picture you can see the values of the density of the electrolyte in different conditions.

After completing the work of topping up with water or acid solution, the holes in the lid must be sealed with sealant.

Safety Precautions

Is it safe to say that a maintenance free battery can be made into a serviceable one?? Of course, a sealed battery can be rebuilt! If the purpose of opening the battery is to extract lead for fishing or hunting, then observing a number of precautions, you can easily cope with just a hammer.

We “Western” motorists are accustomed to refer to the stations of technical equipment for every little thing. One of the units of a car that needs service is the battery, while domestic car owners try to repair the car on their own. One of the units of the car that needs to be serviced is the battery. For its maintenance requires access to the electrolyte. Modern batteries are divided into batteries with and without access to the electrolyte.

How long did it take to charge a dead battery?

The unattended battery is good, but if you kill it once to zero, then after that it practically does not live (especially in winter).

Dream. I’ve never let my FORD down. I charge it once in half a year, to prevent.it’s on a kopeck now.

Maintenance free doesn’t mean it’s not rechargeable!

Hello please advise, I have the same battery and charger, also did this procedure a year ago all is ok, but there was a different battery.I hooked it up, but the diode that should be flashing just keeps on blinking?Or it starts flashing later?self-diagnosis shows that the h.it’s working.It doesn’t get much heat either?

I have not flashed on this particular charger. one of the lights just changes color. To be honest I charged one time I do not really remember.)

How long does it take to charge a dead battery??

The battery is good without maintenance but if you kill it once it is dead, then after that it is dead (especially in winter).

Dream. Never failed on the FORD. Charge it once every six months as a prophylactic.is now on a kopeck.

Maintenance free doesn’t mean it’s not rechargeable!

Hello please tell me, I have the same battery and charger, a year ago also did this procedure is ok, but there was a different battery.now plugged in but the diode that should be flashing just keeps on blinking?or if it blinks later?The self-diagnosis shows that the z.it works.It doesn’t get much heat either?

me, on this particular charger did not flash. One of the lamps only changes color. To be honest I charged once and now I can’t really remember.)

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