How to change a worn chuck for a new one

Neither a drill, nor a torch, nor an electric screwdriver can work without a chuck. And this unit is very loaded. It must be unscrewed and re-tightened every time the tool is changed. It transmits torque in forward and reverse direction, and also absorbs all longitudinal loads from interaction of the tool with the workpiece. Therefore, it is not surprising that the drill chuck can wear out and no longer perform its functions. Having made the decision to replace unusable for work chuck, you must buy a new, but necessarily similar, paying special attention to the type of thread. it can be metric (Russian production) and inch (foreign production).

Disassembling the chuck

Depending on how the chuck mechanism is attached, the methods of disassembly will differ.

Threaded connection

Disassemble the chuck in the following order.

  • Carefully unscrew the locking screw.
  • Unscrew the cartridge counterclockwise, if the threads are tightened in good faith, clamp the tool shaft in a vise. Use a wrench for unscrewing. Then the device is removed and inspected for integrity and serviceability.
  • If the drill is jammed in the jaws, do not hit it hard, but hit it accurately with a hammer on the cams from above.

Reverse the order of installation. When screwing in a new device the shaft must be secured against turning with the free hand. Screw in the locking device last. To help home handyman

remove, chuck, drill, removing

Connecting with a cone

It is quite easy to remove the chuck from the tapered part of the shaft. The set of the drill should have a special device for these purposes, but many experienced craftsmen use the following method: turn the tool over with the drill down, fix it and with even blows of the hammer on the back side, the device is knocked out of the shaft.

After disassembly, it is necessary to grind the tapered surfaces with an emery cloth, if there are surface scuffs, remove them with a file. The new cartridge is installed in place even easier. by beating the hammer on top of it, it is seated tightly on the joint.

Users need to remember that the removal of a drill bit or other nozzle when they are jammed in the chuck requires certain skills and ability to handle locksmith tools, but in any case it is necessary to dismantle the device. If the chuck on the drill is out of order, it must be replaced.

Replacement

Before you disassemble the chuck from the drill, you need to figure out the type of attachment to the shaft: tapered or screwed connection. If the thread is left-handed, the manufacturers prudently put a stop screw. It can also be metric or inch.

remove, chuck, drill, removing

Cone method of connection is formed by using the Morse cone (popularly it is called a tool cone). Slight pressure is used to press the chuck onto this shaft to make it fit snugly. This is often the case with screwdrivers.

The table shows the step-by-step procedure for removing drill chucks.

Action Parts
Threaded joint
Stop screw Unscrewing.
Chuck The way how to unscrew the chuck on the drill. counterclockwise with a gas wrench. If necessary, the shaft can be clamped in a vice. In addition there is an inspection of the device to determine if it is in good working order.
The jammed drill bit A hammer is needed to pull out the nozzle. It is necessary to give a few light blows from above on the cams.
Cone connection
Technically In order to dismantle the drill chuck, the tool comes with a special tool.
Popularly The drill is fastened with the drill bit down. Apply even blows to the back of the tool with a hammer. This is how the chuck is knocked off the shaft.
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In the case of a threaded chuck, install it in the reverse order with the same steps that were performed when dismantling. In the second case, the cone must first be repaired. Here you need sandpaper (it is possible on a cloth), file for burrs. After that the clamping device is installed also with percussive movements, only with a mallet.

Cone connection

Replacement is easier with a tapered chuck. This type of devices may have the following markings: B 10; B 12; B 16; B 18.

The set of the drill includes a special device for the removal of chucks, however, experienced craftsmen simply turn the drill down with the drill bit, fix it and, by applying even blows with a hammer on the back side, knock it out of the shaft.

After dismantling, the tapered surfaces are ground with an emery cloth. If there are burrs on the surface, they are removed with a file. The new cartridge is inserted by hitting it with a hammer, seating tightly on the joint.

To remove the drill bit or other bits that have become jammed in the chuck requires skill and experience in working with plumbing tools. If the chuck has failed, it is replaced.

If you are interested in how to remove the chuck from your Interskol drill, read the information below. The clamp has an inch right-hand thread, but thanks to the reverse, there is a left-hand threaded screw that can be driven inside the workpiece. Cams are separated, a Phillips screwdriver is inserted and the left-hand threaded screw is unscrewed. Because they are tightened hard, problems can occur. Don’t tear the splines! Then try to unscrew it with a gas wrench, but with the gearbox at low rpm.

Materials and tools:

First you need to remove the chuck from your drill or drill press. Its cams are separated and then a Phillips screwdriver is inserted between them.

remove, chuck, drill, removing

The chuck is held by the left-hand threaded screw. To remove the chuck you turn the tool clockwise. Sometimes there are screws with spline for a sprocket, so an appropriate screwdriver is needed.

After removing the screw, unscrew the chuck from the shaft of the drill. This is done counterclockwise. If the drill is used for a long time, it is not so easy to unscrew it by hand. The shaft has to be secured. Often the chuck has a chamfer for the open-end wrench, which will make it easier to remove. If you don’t have one, you’ll have to use a pipe wrench to loosen the chuck.

After removing the chuck, turn it downward with the jaws and hit it in the center of the back with a small hammer. Do it with your weight. It is necessary to use your hand to squeeze the outer casing of the cartridge and to aim blows with the striker. It is not possible to aim it from below, because the clip has no projecting face. If the chuck is rusted and won’t come out, you should first apply a penetrating lubricant like WD-40.

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As a result, clamping mechanism consisting of a base, 3 removable cams and a nut cut in half with slits for a special key should come out of the cage.

Then the nut halves are put back in place, and the mechanism is returned to the cage. To assemble the chuck completely, you must hit the sleeve with a hammer until it is fully seated. This, too, is best done by weight.

Lubricated and assembled chuck is screwed clockwise on the shaft of the drill, then the fixing screw is screwed.

It happens that during disassembly the slits of the screw wear off, then it is better to replace it or to cut a new notch on it with a hacksaw for metal. If the chuck is lubricated right from the start after purchasing the drill, it can be easily disassembled and last much longer, which is why it is best not to postpone this procedure.

Types of attachment

The fixing is done with the help:

The first fastener is named after C. А. Morse in the 19th century. The connection is achieved by interlocking the surfaces of the shaft and cone with the bore due to the identical taper. The fastener is widespread due to its simplicity and reliability.

In the second type of connection, the shaft and the chuck are threaded. The alignment is done by screwing the chuck onto the shaft.

The third type is a modification of the threaded fastener. for security, the connection is fixed with a screw. It basically has a Phillips-head screwdriver and a left-hand thread. You can only see the screw by fully opening the jaws.

Determination of attachment

The fastening of the chuck is determined by visual inspection. The Morse taper is marked as follows: 1-6 B22. The first digits are the diameter of the shank of the screwdriver used, and B22 is the actual size of the cone.

The threaded connection is also identified by numbers and letters, for example: 1.0. 11 M12×1.25. The first part of the marking again indicates the shank diameter of the bits used, and the second part indicates the metric value of the thread. The imported electric screwdrivers show the value in inches.

Removing the chuck from the disassembled screwdriver

All of the above methods involve removing the chuck from a complete screwdriver. But it can happen that the power tool is taken apart. The chuck will be removed from the screwdriver together with the gear.

Then remove the cam assembly in two ways:

  • Clamp the gearbox between the jaws of the vise, using soft spacers (such as wood) so as not to damage the body. To fix the L-shaped tool in the cams, and try to “tear off” the chuck with a hammer.
  • Find a socket wrench so that it fits snugly on the three studs of the gearbox (you can start with size 9).

Hold the chuck with one hand and turn it counterclockwise with the other.

The designs of the most modern household wrenches with three-jaw chucks are very similar, therefore, the disassembly methods are applicable to the majority of models.

The easiest and safest method is to use an L-shaped cut tool clamped between the chuck jaws.

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Replacing and disassembling the chuck on the drill

In the question of how to replace a worn chuck on a drill, there is nothing complicated. To do this, simply purchase the appropriate clamping device, remove the old from the drill and install the new one on it. It should be borne in mind that both regular and mini-drills can be mounted on two types of chucks:

Chucks, for the installation on the drill, which uses a threaded, are removed and fixed according to the above described scheme. When replacing such a device, it is not enough to know that it is a threaded device, it is also important to take into account the markings that are obligatory on it. Such clamping cartridges can be marked as follows:

The 1.5-13 interval present in these designations indicates the minimum and maximum diameters of the cutting tool to be installed. The rules for replacing a chuck on a drill suggests that the new chuck must be marked completely identical to the designation of the old.

With the question of how to replace the taper chuck on the drill, everything is somewhat simpler. This type of device may also have various markings, namely:

To replace the drill chuck of this type, you simply need to pick up the clamping device with the appropriate markings and insert its seating part in the cone hole drilling equipment. Orientation in such a marking is simple enough: the letter “B” means that it is a chuck of the cone type, and the number indicates the diameter of the lower part of the landing hole.

Removing the taper chuck from the drill is as easy as installing it. In order to perform such a procedure, you simply need to knock the clamping device out of the mounting hole of the drill, for which you use a regular hammer. The details of installing and removing the taper chuck of an electric drill can also be found by watching the corresponding video.

On the Soviet drills a chuck with a cone fixing was simply knocked out, the design of a reducer allowed such roughness. To remove the chuck of modern models you need to use pullers or special devices

How to disassemble the chuck of an electric screwdriver or drill? Periodically perform such a procedure to maintain the appliance (clean and lubricate all of its internal components) and for minor repairs. This will greatly extend the life of the cartridge.

When disassembling the cartridge, take into account the type of cartridge you are using. Guided by the instructions or video, it is necessary to perform all actions on disassembly of such a device as carefully as possible not to damage its constituent elements. After all maintenance or repair procedures for the elements of the drill chuck have been completed, you must perform its reassembly in the reverse order.

If the structural elements are badly worn and it is impossible to restore them, it is better to replace the whole mechanism, which will be much cheaper than to repair it.

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