How to unscrew the head on a drill?

Even at the most reliable branded power tool, such as an electric drill, peorator or electric screwdriver, not to mention the Chinese.Made tool, over time, depending on the intensity of operation, wears out and begins to keep the drill, bats, or jam the clamping cartridge.

Such a fate befell the cartridge of my electric drill, serving correctly for more than 12 years. The start of the beginning from jamming, expressed in the difficulties of rotating the squeezer ring, manifest. In addition, the cartridge in the repair of the apartment fell in the inside of the apartment, and a raid of rust appeared in the guide grooves of the cartridge cams. The working surfaces of the fists were also worn out. Although the drilling cartridge was still a worker, it was extremely inconvenient to change the drill. I decided to replace it with a new one, and the question arose, but how to remove the cartridge from the rampart of the drill?

Methods for attaching a drilling cartridge

In order to answer the question of how to remove the drilling cartridge, you need to understand the existing methods of attaching cartridges on the shafts of drills and screwdrivers.

Two methods of fixing the clamping cartridge on the power tool are used. The first method was proposed back in 1864 by Stephen Morse with the help of a cone. Morze by the way is the inventor of a spiral drill. The essence of the method is to mating two surfaces in the form of a shaft and a part with a hole that have the same cone with an angle in the range from 1 ° 25’43 ″ to 1 ° 30’26 ″. In the Honor inventor, this method of fastening was called the cone Morse, which is shown in the photo below. The cone in the photo has a larger angle for clarity.

The method of fastening on the Morsa cone is widespread, as it is simple and quite reliable at loads along the axis, as in drones and screwdrivers. To attach a drill cartridge, it is enough to put it on a shaft with a cone of Morsa with a slight effort. The cartridge is also removed is also simple, it is enough to strike at its case along the axis in the direction of the place of installation of the drill with a hammer. The ability to quickly install and remove the tool in the process is the main advantage of fastening using a cone cone cone.

The second, more common at the present time for attaching a drilling cartridge on the shaft of the power tool, this is a threaded.

At the end of the rampart coming out of a drill or an electric screwdriver, a metric or inch thread and a drilling cartridge are cut, like a nut until it stops into the flange, wound up on this shaft. Since the thread is right, and when performing work mainly the cartridge rotates clockwise, it is constantly delayed and thereby ensures its reliable fastening on the tool.

In what way the drilling cartridge on the tool is fixed

An external inspection of the power tool, often cannot be determined in what way the drilling cartridge is fixed. But if you know the marking, then the method of fastening will be determined even with a cursory look at the cartridge.

Marking of drilling cartridges fastened using thread

For attaching a drilling cartridge on the tool using a thread, both metric and inch threads are used. Cartridges of domestic manufacturer are usually produced with a metric thread, and an imported manufacturer is always with an inch.

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A drill cartridge with a mount by means of a metric thread usually has the following type on the case: 1.5-13 m12 × 1.25. The numbers are 1.5-13, as you probably have already guessed, mean the diameter of the shanks of the drills or other tools that can be squeezed in this cartridge. The letter m indicates that the thread is metric, the numbers 12 and 1.25 indicate the diameter of the thread and the step of its thread, respectively. Currently, drilling cartridges with fastening on a metric thread are practically not found, except that such a cartridge can be seen on an old Soviet.Made hand drill.

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Currently, the market is filled with a power tool of a foreign manufacturer, and drilling cartridges on it are usually attached using an inch carvings.

Drilling cartridges with an inch carvings on the same principle as cartridges with metric carvings are launched. For example, 2-13 mm 1/2-20 UNF, as in the photo. The numbers 2-13 indicate the range of clamped diameters of the shanks of the drills, 1/2-the diameter of the thread in inches (for reference, one English inch is 2.54 cm), 20 indicates the number of threads of one inch (thread step).

Having learned the rules for marking drilling cartridges, now you can easily determine the way to attach it on the tool and you can choose the correct technology of replacing the cartridge. Marking also allow you to purchase an interchangeable cartridge in case of wear or breakdown on a drill or electric screwdriver.

Types of cartridges

Cartridges for the drill differ in size of the muzzle. The designs of individual models themselves are also different. In total, 7 varieties of fittings are presented for the drilling tool.

Fist type

The tsang structure is distinguished by greater efficiency. Cartridges can be used to fix hexagonal or cylindrical modifications of the shanks. Rotation of the clamping coupling or sleeve is carried out on the surface. Fists boil down on the thread. Steel for the manufacture of spare parts should undergo heat treatment. Clime coupls are moved inside the mechanisms of the fist. Convergence is carried out by the movement of the adjusting wheel.

Key

A common type of clamp. It is tightened with a separate key. It is strong enough. It is inexpensive. The key clamp serves much longer than other types. Disadvantages of this type:

Helpful advice. It is recommended to fix the key on the tool cord. Thanks to this, the detail will cease to often get lost.

Threaded

Differs in that it can be very easy to act. It is wrapped in a non.Standard way.

Step.By.Step instruction How to correctly remove a threaded cartridge:

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  • Open the inside of the element.
  • When spinning, turn the screw to the left.
  • Turn on the lamp to accurately determine which shape the hat.
  • The regulator indicator is changed to the final mode.
  • Disconnect the fitting from the drill.

Quickly sound

The second name is selfless. A fairly common look. Installed in the peorators of the brand of the bison, makita, diold. The absence of teeth reduces the likelihood of injuries. Squeeze or open the part of the palm. Disadvantages of fast.Packed type:

Frequent replacement of drills or long.Term operation becomes the cause of weakening fasteners. The result from using the device ceases to be effective. Performing work is often dangerous.

One.Button

On these cartridges, the spindle blocking function should be provided. The fastening with one hand is wrapped in a part. The pressure force of this species provides a rather powerful. One.Flame products are created from metal or solid plastic.

Note. Metal one.Meofal cartridges are made for drilling devices of the highest class models.

Two.Shirt

Accommodate two couplings. They are tightened with both hands. Are considered less convenient when operating. Give less effort. Cartridges of this type are created from metal or plastic.

Type SDS

Most often found in the design of various modifications of Metabo. Fixation of the tool is more reliable. 90 % of all peorators are equipped precisely by these products. The design of the spare parts is simple. The tool should be lubricated every time after using.

Often arising problems and ways to eliminate them

The cartridge vibrates or flies from the spindle axis

The most common problem is associated with the unstable position of the cartridge case. If the cartridge begins to vibrate during operation or flies from the spindle axis, this means that it needs to be urgently repaired.

First of all, it is necessary to find out the cause of the cartridge jumping from the shaft. Most likely, it will be the production of a mounting screw inside the cartridge. From frequent sharp beats or transverse loads, the hat of this screw may break off. And then the cartridge is easy to unscrew during operation, especially if you hold it with a hand.

The best solution to the problem will be the replacement of the cartridge new, but it is also possible to replace only the controlling screw. To do this, you need to completely disassemble the cartridge, and then try to disperse the broken bolt and replace it with new. This is not always as easy as it seems.

The clamping fists are jammed

The second common circulation in the work of the cartridge is the jamming of clamping fists. Most often this happens when a core is inserted into the cartridge, the diameter of which exceeds the recommended. Or when when repairing, the working part of the cams is abundantly lubricated with lubricant. Over time, the dust and garbage that fall inside the cartridge are cemented with a lubricant and break the rims of threads or jam the course of the cams themselves.

This can be fixed with disassembling the cartridge and thorough cleaning of the fists from accumulated garbage. If the thread inside the mechanism turns out to be intact, the cartridge can be assembled and operated for a long time.

When drilling in especially dusty conditions, many experienced masters protect the cartridge from garbage, putting on a half of the tennis ball on the drill.

The long life of the tool depends on its proper operation and regular maintenance. If the tool is broken, you can’t work with it. This is especially true for household electric droplets with clamping cartridges. A flying drill can be injured. Remove a faulty cartridge and put a new to a home master. Cartridges for household appliances are not always repaired, so it is recommended to put them in scrap or contact professionals.

How to remove a cartridge from a drill

For greater functionality, drills and screwdrivers are now supplied with a clamping cartridge. This device will close any tool that has a cylindrical or faceted shank, it does not matter a drill or a bat for an electric screwdriver. The most commonly used three.Cuping self.Center cartridges.

But like any mechanical device, a cam cartridge can fail, in addition, a situation sometimes arises when the cartridge needs to be replaced to install another equipment. Often this situation occurs when using a penetrator as a drill or when working with miniature cores, the shanks of which cannot be squeezed with an ordinary cartridge.

In our article we will describe how the cartridge is fixed on the working val of the tool, and how to dismantle it correctly.

Types of fastening of cartridges

There are three main types of fixation of the cartridge on the shaft:

Morse cone, marked with letter “B” with a number indicating its size. Recently, it has been found only in machine.Building production, but, nevertheless, a fairly reliable way to fix.

Threaded mount. Marked by the designation of threads in inches or metric units indicating the dimension. The thread is directed in the opposite direction from the direction of rotation, this avoids the span and twisting during operation.

Marking on the cartridge. Literal z on the upper ring and dimension, in inches, on the central.

Most often, in household tools, it is precisely a threaded assembly on an additional screw mount, this is due to sufficient reliability and ease of device of these devices. In addition, such a cartridge is much easier to remove in everyday conditions.

It is necessary to separately note the rapidly setting clamping devices that have gained widespread recently. Typically, this type of device is installed on universal shock drills and peorators. For a quick change of equipment. In this case, the cartridge is combined with the fixation device on the shaft of a slotted type.

Removing a cartridge from a drill

First of all, we turn to a quick.Sitting cartridge. In order to remove this device, just squeeze the upper ring of the clamping device and turn the lower ring to the click. Typically, turning boundaries are shown on the cartridge itself.

As can be seen in the photo, a slammer of a codium type to fix the drill is installed on the drill. Below lies a three.Cubed cartridge prepared for replacement.

By fixing the upper ring with the marking, we turn the lower ring with the line with force to the designation of the removed device. After which the device is easily removed in the direction of the shaft axis. An open position was initially exhibited on a cam cartridge. If not, then it is enough to crank the lower part with respect to the upper ring before the click.

We put on the cartridge on the shaft, clamp the upper ring and scroll the lower part to the click, the cartridge is fixed on the shaft and ready to work.

In the photo, the boundary of the quick.Set device and the cartridge itself are clearly visible. In order to remove the cartridge itself, we will need a screwdriver or a playground key.

Here you can see the fists of the cartridge, lowered to the extreme position. And at the very bottom of the nest you can see a axial screw for a slotted screwdriver. This screw will need to be unscrewed in order to remove the clamping cartridge fixed on the shaft.Here, for example, a cartridge, hardly fixed on the shaft

In this case, a cross screwdriver will be required to shoot it.It should be noted that a turnkey-player is often found and the screws are also found.

Removing the cartridge on the thread, with a reverse screw

In order to remove the cartridge from the axis, we need to first unscrew the central screw. In order to get access to it, you need to push the fists all the way. Then insert the nuts or a screwdriver with a sharp movement “pull” it. Left.Hand. The screw itself is filled with sealant, and it is very difficult to crank.

In addition, it should be noted that in the work it is worth using a quality tool. When working with a Chinese screwdriver, I just broke the slot. At the same time, the screw itself remained in an untouched position. Only a blow to the screw helped, after which the head was folded from the place and the process went. After twisting the screw, you need to remove the cartridge case itself.

Then you need to twist the cartridge itself from the thread. In this case, the thread is right, reverse screw. It is very difficult to disrupt the thread, since when working it “takes up”. A significant application of effort is required, but the process can be accelerated.

In this case, you can use the player-packed key in the cartridge. This will allow you to lengthen the lever, and in the presence of “reverse” use the tool itself. To use the tool, you need to either squeeze the hexagon in a vice, and turn it on, or hit them on the table when rotating at small speeds.

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Removing a cartridge with a cone cone

In this case, you will need a pitch and a hammer. In the role of a groove, you can use a P-shaped filmmaker, with clovice paws in terms of paws. It must be installed so that the cone axis passed between the paws, and then gently drive it between the cartridge and the drill. Entering inside the filmmaker must squeeze the cartridge from the cone.

In the photo, three.Cubed cartridges of different types and forses of Morsa of several sizes.

As a shooter, you can use an an open key or any other device that allows you to influence the cartridge in the axial direction.

It is worth noting that all actions to dismantle cartridges, especially with the Morse cone should be carried out extremely neatly. Since excessive haste can lead to damage to the drill housing or injury.

Installation of a cartridge

Installation is in the reverse order. In the case of threaded fixation, you first need to wind the cartridge case onto the thread. Then screw the control screw. Before that, it is advisable to drip a little sealant on it. For additional fixation.

Installation of a clamping cartridge on a cone Morse, simple and uncomplicated.

You need to insert the cone into the nest and sharply hit it. After planting, check the fixation. In the future, when working, the cone will settle even more.

Types of fastening of cartridges

There are three main types of fixation of the cartridge on the shaft:

Morse cone, marked with letter “B” with a number indicating its size. Recently, it has been found only in machine.Building production, but, nevertheless, a fairly reliable way to fix.

Threaded mount. Marked by the designation of threads in inches or metric units indicating the dimension. The thread is directed in the opposite direction from the direction of rotation, this avoids the span and twisting during operation.

Marking on the cartridge. Literal z on the upper ring and dimension, in inches, on the central.

Most often, in household tools, it is precisely a threaded assembly on an additional screw mount, this is due to sufficient reliability and ease of device of these devices. In addition, such a cartridge is much easier to remove in everyday conditions.

It is necessary to separately note the rapidly setting clamping devices that have gained widespread recently. Typically, this type of device is installed on universal shock drills and peorators. For a quick change of equipment. In this case, the cartridge is combined with the fixation device on the shaft of a slotted type.

Remove the threaded cartridge

In drones with a reverse function, the drilling cartridge is additionally fixed with a lock screw visible through open fists.

Slots on the screw head can be cross.Shaped, under the hexagon or even a “star”. Prepare the desired screwdriver, key or bit. Use a tool with whole slots, precisely suitable in size.

Measure a turnkey place for a drill shaft. Most likely, it will be 14 mm for a middle class or 17 mm tool for a more powerful apparatus.

Prepare a face key with thin lips. You can take a bicycle suitable from the repair kit or cost the edge of a regular key on the sandpaper.

Holding the drill shaft with a key, try to unscrew the screw clockwise (left.Handed thread).

If the thread “did not go”, fix the cartridge electrode in a vice and hit several times on the screw head with a hammer through a steel rod.

Now the thread will become more buzzing and the screw will turn away.

Next, unscrew the cartridge itself counterclockwise (right.Hand carvings), using two keys. An anx and cartridge.

Difficulties may arise. Try to increase the lever by holding a hexagonal key in the cartridge.

In extreme cases, use the vice, placing a drill in them as in the photo below.

Drive the cartridge from the place with blows on the gorge mounted through the tetrahedral head.

This method can be unscrewed by quite cooked cartridges.

After cleaning, set the cartridge in the reverse sequence, remembering different threads.

Before twisting the lock screw, drip a little paint on the thread.

Do.It.Yourself electric drill repair

How annoying when a drill, a faithful and indispensable assistant to any home master, suddenly fails. We have prepared a small reference guide in which we described the typical malfunctions of electrical drills and the methods of their elimination of them.

How to select spare parts for replacement

During the disassembly and service of the drill, you may face the fact that some details have worn out and require replacement. This is usually practice, however, one should not try to replace third.Party components or, worse, look for complex ways of bypass. A typical and rude error. When instead of a broken regular button on the outside of the handle, a conventional toggle switch is attached. Such “tuning” is unsafe and it should be avoided.

The internal device of the drill: 1. Network cable; 2. Intercourse capacitor; 3. Trigger button; 4. The stator of the electric motor; 5. Engine bearing; 6. Brushes with brushes; 7. Rotor collector; 8. Drill body; 9. Impeller, cooling electric motor; 10. Switching button between conventional and shock modes; 11. Gearbox body; 12. Gearbox; 13. Cartridge bearings; 14. Return spring; 15. Cartridge holding the drill

Over, today the market of spare parts for power tools is available and extensive.

All that is needed is to determine the manufacturer of the drill and the exact name of the model, this information is mandatory on the nameplate. The problem is that different modifications of the same model can have both compatible components and absolutely non.Suitable. Focus on the appearance, do not be lazy to clarify the main sizes and dimensions of the details for replacement.

With the compound drive mechanism, everything is somewhat simpler due to a high degree of unification: bearings have marking on protective rings of separators, nomenclature codes are stamped on the gears. Practice shows that all popular tool models, including representatives of the foreign series of Profile, can be selected spare parts. Only a drill over 30 years old in the category of exceptions, but even for them it is quite possible to find a donor.

Malfunctions of the electric part

Description of common breakdowns, we will begin with the electric and switching part. Almost every drill has an electric compartment in the handle, where the button is placed. To get access to it, most often you have to disassemble the drill completely. This is not difficult, but difficulties with the clutching of the case are possible: in addition to several screws, it is held on the latch. Having caught the case, remember the location of the elements and wiring, or better, take a picture, because the layout can be very intricate.

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The main sign of an electrician malfunction is that the drill simply does not turn on. Try with a pressed button to move the power cord in the place where it leaves the case: the fracture of the vein in this place serves as the reason for 90% of all malfunctions, if it takes place. The drill will give signs of life. You can also determine the breakthrough breakdown.

Another common cause of breakdown is the failure of the button or reverse switch. Try to call the contacts to which the wires are connected for the presence of switching. A faulty button can be replaced, you can try to repair. Up the couple of small bolts with which the housing is fastened, you will get access to the insides. Assess the condition of the lamellas (can be erased or oxidized), check the serviceability of the discharge mechanism, the purity of the printed circuit board and the presence of burning at the main contacts.

Malfunctions of a small printed circuit board or potentiometer inside the button that play the role of a revolutionary control regulator, independent treatment is not amenable. The drill in such cases is either not turned on at all, with a fully operational contact group, or works with a constant speed of rotation. The button will have to be changed.

Do not forget to check the reliability of the termination of the terminals, integrity of insulation, the presence of oxides on contacts. The Drill Electric Scheme is extremely simple, the main thing is to remember the order of accession of the wires.

Engine problems

A less common class of problems. Extraneous noises during the work of a drill. It can be either a crack or a mournful buzz. It is not worth operating the drill in this state, the engine malfunction on the face.

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