Handsaws for metal

When you go to the store it is very difficult to navigate in the presented range. So it is not superfluous to get acquainted beforehand with the most popular samples of metal hacksaws, according to experts and users.

Bahco 325. high quality for a high price

Bahco 325

Professional model, which is equipped with a solid aluminum frame with a convenient spring mechanism for tensioning the blade. This allows it to be replaced quickly. The basis of this tool is a bimetal blade for metal hacksaw 300 mm long. High hardness ensures a sharp sharpening. Angle of blade tilt is 55º. The only drawback users consider high cost, which amounts to 3062 rubles.

Stanley 1 15 122. budget option for home useBahco 325

Stanley 1 15 122

A model from a well-known brand that belongs to the budget segment. For this money the buyer gets a working tool for home use with a blade length of 300 mm. Metal saw Stanley 1 15 122 has a convenient ergonomic plastic handle, 4 positions of the blade tension and the ability to strengthen it up to 102 kg.

Gross 77604. lever-lock allows you to maximize the tension of the bladeSteleu 1 15 122

Gross 77604

Another inexpensive model, the cost of which is 1453 rubles. Gross metal hacksaw is equipped with a steel frame with a coat of varnish to prevent corrosion. In addition, to achieve maximum tension, a special lever mechanism is used. It is possible to turn the bimetal blade at 45º and 90º. The handle has a rubberized insertion.

Zubr PRO-900 is almost a full copy of Gross

Separately, we should note the price of hand hacksaw blades for metal. It ranges from 8 to 1500 per piece. The main pricing factor in this case is the quality of the material used, the number of teeth, the sharpness of their sharpening and the brand.

What do we mean by right?

By this word we mean getting the best result with minimum time and effort. With one caveat, we need to make a lot of firewood! The caveat is significant because.к. in small volumes it is possible to cut firewood faster using not the best technique, but quickly get tired and lose interest in firewood ;-))

Naturally, there is no right technique for all occasions!The technique of sawing firewood depends on the tool in your hands.

Subtleties

If you know how to properly sharpen a wood hacksaw, it does not mean that you can immediately get to work. One of the factors that affects the quality of a saw is the setting of the teeth. In the process of operation it gets knocked down (becomes uneven), and it is necessary to correct it.

Set means that the teeth of the hacksaw are slightly to one side in every direction (first to the left, second to the right). The teeth deflection has to be equal on the whole length of the blade. If you plan to saw dry hardwood, then the teeth should be set back by 0.25-0.5 mm. When working with softwood or damp wood, you need to increase the setting up to 0.5-1 mm.

The setting itself is carried out with the help of a special metal plate, which is called “setting”.

Choosing the right tool

The procedure on how to choose a hand hacksaw for wood is quite simple:

  • Decide what you want to use the tool for. Choose fine-toothed products for carpentry and more accurate cuts, and blades with coarse teeth for carpentry.
  • Frequency of use. If you will be using your handsaw only for occasional use, choose a tool with hardened teeth. The operating life of this type of product is quite long. over, you do not have to worry about sharpening and setting the teeth during operation.
  • Uniformity of the blade. When inspecting a tool, try to bend the blade gently to an angle of 30-45° and then release it. Re-inspect the blade: the slightest deviation in the point of bending even within 2 mm indicates a low quality of the metal.
  • Cost of the product. As with other tools, keep in mind that quality models of leading brands are always an order of magnitude more expensive than the mass-produced goods. This overpayment acts as a kind of guarantee for the durability and longevity of the saw. But there is no point in spending money on an expensive tool for a single use.

Conventional handles are made of plastic. The prefabricated plastic handles made of two halves do not have enough rigidity. It is much more comfortable to work with a tool that has an all-molded handle that has a rubberized palm rest. The presence of the rubber insert allows for a tighter grip, preventing the formation of blisters on the palm.

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Pay attention to the design of the handle of the tool: it desirable to have an ergonomic shape that allows you to transfer the force on the blade correctly

Available with standard and flip-up handles. The second variant is convenient because it allows replacing a worn-out handle with a new one, if necessary.

Please note that not all hand saws are offered for sale already sharpened. And how soon you can get down to work depends a lot on this, it would seem, trifle.

There are many firms that make hacksaws on the market. Judging by reviews, produced by Russian company “Zubr” hacksaw, Gross Piranha of joint German-Chinese cooperation, Irwin Xpert from the USA have established themselves well. They are famous for their good quality and low price, which varies from 10 to 20 per hour.е.

How to saw correctly

Always saw from the cutting side, close to the marking line. This concerns both rough cuts with a hacksaw and precise cuts with a fine-toothed saw. Then it is very important that the workpiece to be processed had a stable support in the form of a workbench top or usual work table. For large-size workpieces it is better to use saws. During sawing the part must be held firmly by hand all the time (for large-size workpieces. also with the knee). in other words, only the saw must move.

Sawing begins with the first short movements at an angle of 30 to 45 degrees. Only after the saw blade has entered the wood and is firmly embedded in it, can you start working with the full length of the saw blade.

At the edge of a cut, only use short, sharp strokes. This will avoid breaking off the underside of the workpiece.

Sawing along the wood fibers is always a “critical” situation, especially if the wood has a big sag. The saw naturally wants to take the path of least resistance, and if it is not restrained, it will start to “wander. That means that in such cases the saw has to be pressed harder than usual, which in turn requires the steadiest possible position of the workpiece.

wood, hacksaw

For larger cross-cuts, a regular hacksaw can get jammed. In such cases it is best to use a longitudinal saw with teeth set very far apart. Only it is necessary to take into account that the strip of cut will be much thicker than the saw blade.

It is easier to cut fresh or wet wood if you wax or soap on the saw blade.

Saws for crosscutting

The workpieces are pressed firmly against the lintel, its right edge guides the saw.

Crab Hands ♋ Almois Jobbing Official

The general theory of metal sawing looks like this:

The theory of sawing with a hacksaw. An Introductory Course

So, we’re not going to study theory, we’ll go straight to practice:

In this video the whole story about how to saw is actually presented, but now there will be a postscript, presented a number of additions and corrections (plus a brief retelling of the video content).

So, let’s start with the fact that you have to saw horizontally with both hands on the tool. Why it is a good idea to use a hacksaw with a well-defined handle for a second hand grip.

It is uncomfortable to saw horizontally, because you need the workpiece to be fixed at chest level, and to saw standing up. Workbenches, however, are generally tables at which one must sit, or if one is sawing, standing and from top to bottom. That is why hacksaws are often made as one-handed and 45º angle saws.

In order to regulate pressure on the saw (the harder the metal, the harder you have to load the blade, to press it so that the teeth dig into the flesh; and vice versa. if the teeth dig too deep into, for example, aluminum, you need to reduce pressure) you can: a) change the angle of the sawing, b) put your hand on top for more weight, c) turn the blade with the teeth backwards.

The saw often gets stuck in the kerf when it reaches the end of the blade. This is because the blade has a wavy pattern to the teeth (so the kerf is wider than the blade and it doesn’t get stuck in the kerf) but over time the amplitude of this wave decreases in the center of the blade and is almost non-existent at the ends.

The teeth are worn down more in the center of the blade

This misalignment is due to not cutting the entire length of the blade before. To correct it (increase the spread in the center or decrease it on the ends) is impossible now because the teeth are hardened. So the moral: From the start of a new saw blade you should always cut the entire length of the blade.

Next problem: If you are sawing a thin sheet of metal that is thinner than the distance between the teeth, the saw jams:

Too thin part gets stuck between the teeth

See also  How to properly cut thin sheet metal with a hacksaw

If the metal is hard (iron). you can hardly move it, and if it is soft (aluminum). a huge piece of metal is ripped out, torn edges are formed, the edge is bent.

How to Saw Straight with a Handsaw | Paul Sellers

Saw a thin part at a steep angle

cut at an angle to form such a kerf so that at least two teeth are on the kerf at the same time (kerf length ≥ two distances between teeth).

Next topic: Sawing thin-walled aluminum pipe:

Torsion direction of the tube

Set the blade with teeth backwards, twist the tube in the direction of the teeth (otherwise the blade will get stuck on the near edge of the kerf and tear when applying force).

Well, one more thing the metal hacksaw blade can be restored, sharpening the teeth, for example, in this way:

Originally, this diamond disc was larger in diameter and this drill with this disc, being thus pressed against the blade, was positioned strictly parallel to the blade’s tooth line, and the disc, accordingly, perpendicular. And it was right. the new hacksaw has cutting edge-surfaces of teeth orthogonal to the blade. Now a slight negative angle is formed. a little better, but still ok.

Also for your information: you can drill this band saw blade with an ordinary metal drill bit (made of HSS steel). Because at the factory the whole blade is not hardened much, for elasticity, and here are the teeth are hardened separately by induction heating with rapid cooling for hardness, so these teeth can easily saw a drill in reverse.

Top 10 rated by KP

Wood saw BAHCO Superior 2600-16-XT11-HP 400 mm (from 1600 )

A great, solid hacksaw. It is designed for wood. The manufacturer guarantees the customer a hardened tooth design. Their pitch is 11. Handle is fixed. Users, in turn, praise the hacksaw for its durability and almost indestructibility. It is comfortable to work with. It saws medium to small sized pieces of wood. Can handle plywood. It will not let you down in other cases, but treat it carefully and for its intended purpose.

Basic characteristics: type. wood saw; material. wood; blade length. 400 mm; hardened teeth; tooth pitch. 11; handle. fixed.

Pros and cons

Metal hacksaw Gross Piranha 77600 300 mm (from 976 )

And this tool is designed for cutting metal. It has a good length of blade. 300 mm. It is made of very durable bimetal. The blade can be mounted at a 45 degree angle, which makes the job much easier for the user of the hacksaw. The quality of materials is trustworthy, the model with proper use can last a long time.

Main characteristics: type. hacksaw for metal; material of processing. metal; blade length. 300 mm; material of blade. bimetal; blades in the set. 1 pc.24 teeth pitch; fixed handle; additional information. blade tensioning force 170 kg; possibility of blade positioning at 45°.

Pros and cons

Wood Hacksaw Zubr Expert 15165-35 350 mm (from 757 )

A tool respected by users. Among the pros they mention the good quality steel and the sharpness. Additionally, the hacksaw is easy to carry. There is a holster where it folds up, just like a gun. With this tool you can carry this model with you when you go camping or wherever. The thickness of the blade is not small, the lock also does not cause any problems.

Basic characteristics: type. wood saw; material. wood; blade length. 350 mm; material of the blade. carbon steel; blades in the set. 1 pc.The handle is fixed, the teeth are hardened, pitch 7, 3D-sharpening is available.

Pros and cons

Wood saw Irwin Xpert 10505542 550 mm (from 1488 )

Model with an interesting design. It features not only good materials, but also a fairly large blade. That is, such a tool is quite suitable for working with large elements. Specializes on wood, even wet wood. The cut is easy and smooth. If, for example, the volume of activity is not the largest, such a thing can replace even a chainsaw.

Main characteristics: type. wood hacksaw, material. wood, blade length. 550 mm, hardened teeth, tooth pitch. 8, handle. fixed.

Pros and cons

Narrow drywall saw Armero A541/115 150 mm (from 370 )

A highly specialized small tool. In it you find good quality and a very reasonable price, especially if you take into account the discounts. Sawblade copes with drywall at a moment’s notice. Blade is hardened, the blade is narrow. such a saw-knife simply can not perform its basic functions poorly. There is a protective aluminum insert on the handle for safety. The end of the blade is sharpened, which also adds to the versatility.

Main characteristics: type. narrow drywall saw; material. drywall; blade length. 150 mm; blades complete. 1 pc.handle. fixed; handle material. rubberized plastic; additional information. pointed end of the blade, protective aluminum insert on the handle.

Pros and cons

Vira 801400 400 mm Wood Saws (from 389 )

Inexpensive version of the classic look. The saw has a transversal direction. Handle made of rubberized plastic. Main purpose. for dry wood. Indispensable helper in a private or country house. Trim trees, cut wood. a hacksaw can do it all with dignity. It also has an attractive price tag.

Basic characteristics: type. wood saw; material. wood; blade length. 400 mm; hardened teeth; tooth pitch. 9; saw direction. transversal; handle. fixed; handle material. rubberized plastic; additional information. for dry wood; blade material. steel Mn65 with hardness 50-56 HRC; blade thickness. 0.9 mm.

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Pros and cons

Kraftool Katran Fine Cut Carpentry wood saw 1-15181-30-14 300 mm (from 1054 )

The look of such a hacksaw is immediately striking. It is not like its other brethren. But the function is the same. woodworking. The specificity of the saw is explained by its origin. It was invented in Japan. The teeth are hardened and thin. Sawing must be done carefully and on yourself. If you do it carefully and correctly, the result will be amazing.

Main characteristics: type. wood hacksaw; processing material. wood; blade length. 300 mm; hardened teeth; tooth pitch. 14; there is a 3D sharpening; handle. fixed; handle material. rubberized plastic.

CHOOSE AND SAVE.

When selecting a saw, look first for the size and shape of the teeth. The use of very fine teeth gives a good clean cut but makes it difficult to cut along fibers and through wet wood. For quality and fast performance of the cut, it is better to use specialized saws for the material to be cut. All-purpose saws often perform worse, but are more “omnivorous. Garden saws tend to have a small tooth size in order to cause as little injury to the wood as possible. Increased spacing between the teeth, which prevents wet sawdust from clogging the kerf.

A basic measure of a saw’s toothiness is the number of teeth per inch, known as the TPI. It comes from the English acronym Tooth Per Inch: the number of teeth per inch on a 25.4 mm long section of the toothed ring. Actually, it is the inverse of tooth size. The following toothed tooth options are used for garden and hiking saws:

5.5 TPI. Rough (cutting green wood);

6 TPI. coarse (all-purpose, wood-cutting);

8.5 TPI. average (softwood);

11 TPI. Thin (hardwood).

Garden hacksaws are often an example of a specialized saw with a narrow, often curved blade that is about 300 mm long. A curved blade provides a more efficient cut of branches and thin trunks due to the increased reach and longer stroke for a quicker cut. The handle is usually straight or slightly curved. These saws are lightweight: you need to work long hours in an awkward hanging position. A folding hacksaw is usually designed as a hiking or gardening tool. Its blade is about 300 mm long, the handle is a little longer.

It’s necessary to set the set teeth so the blade doesn’t jam the material that is being sawn off: a branch or a trunk. If you don’t make a bend, the kerf is equal to the thickness of the blade. But as the kerf deepens the friction force between the wood and the saw increases, the user gets tired faster and the cut is not neat. Tooth setting of a hand hacksaw. This is bending the teeth alternately away from the plane of the blade at the same angle. As a result of this adjustment, small gaps are formed between the blade and the walls of the kerf, which reduce the friction of the blade, reducing the load on the hand and increasing the quality of the cut. Sharpening is especially important when working with wet wood. Every wood saw has a toothing adjustment. Check and correct it during sharpening. Modern saws are usually already set at the factory, that’s why only some kinds of special hacksaws require setting on their own.

Induction Hardening of Tooth rim of traditional Japanese saw.

Most hacksaws are produced with a hardened tooth that does not require sharpening. Tooth sharpening on the saw can only be done without hardening of the tooth rim. To distinguish them simply: in a saw that you can sharpen yourself, the color of the teeth does not differ from the color of the blade. A popular tool for sharpening saw teeth is a rhomboidal or triangular cross-section velvet (with a fine cut) file or file, chosen according to the size of the tooth. For sharpening the blade is fixed with the jaws of the vice with the teeth upwards or horizontally on the edge of the table.

Japanese saws require care to maintain their excellent performance. Avoid improper use, clean off any traces of vegetation immediately after use, lightly grease them and keep them in a dry place.

Basic saw care: clean immediately after use and lightly lubricate before storing. Saws with a non-hardened tooth also require periodic sharpening, for which a velvet file or a rhombic or triangular file is used.

wood, hacksaw

Tojiro has added high-quality garden saws from one of Japan’s oldest manufacturers, Asaka Industrial, to its line of Japanese hand tools to provide our customers with a wide range of reliable options for a variety of gardening and outdoor tasks. High quality hand tools from Japan can be purchased on the Tojiro website with delivery throughout Russia.

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