How to sharpen a wood saw: simple step-by-step instructions | (Photo Video)
Greetings to all woodworking enthusiasts. The topic for this video was suggested to the author of the channel by a viewer who asked to talk about how to correctly drive a hacksaw.
Here is the tool in front of you. A hacksaw, a circular saw and a carbide blade. Where do we start?? It’s not a hot topic anymore. Its importance is slowly fading because the first paving discs came along a few decades ago. These are 30 years old. They were sawing particleboard. It doesn’t need to be diluted, thanks to the carbide plates. Served for a long time.
A modern Italian blade with tungsten carbide inserts. It is made more accurately. In order not to deform it during the work, saw cuts were made. Width of 2.5 mm. The resistance of the material is very small. You don’t have to be diluted for these discs. As for the hacksaw with a hardened tooth, it does not need to be filed either. They’re ready to use. But it is impossible to sharpen them with a file. Only on the electric grinder. The question about the tooth pitch is still relevant. Where to start? In order to set up a hacksaw properly, it is necessary to make an angle. After that cut between the teeth a mark with an angle grinder literally a little, so that each tooth is the same height. After that, the divorce.
What to start from, how to work properly? Let’s measure the thickness of the blade. It is necessary to take into account what kind of wood we are going to saw. If it is wet, loose or dry and hard, the tooth setting has to be different. For unconsolidated damp wood a larger setting is necessary. But not more than 2 thicknesses of the blade. If the blade is 0,8 the setting should be 1,5 mm. width of the kerf. If the wood is dry you have to cut it well, but it’s not more than 1,5 blade thickness. Then the resistance of the material will be minimal. The hacksaw will not get jammed.
How the bulk of the divorce. People used to boast and say that they do it with an axe. It speaks for itself that the work is supporting, that is, rough. The teeth should deflect left and right at the same angle. If they dance, i.e. one more, one less, the cutting quality is poor. It will be hard to get a good grip on the front. Teeth get knocked out. The quality will be poor. To see more from minute five of the video.
A saw is often used for machining wooden workpieces, changing lengths and shapes. This tool is represented by the combination of the working part and the handle. in this case the working part is represented by a metal plate with cutting elements, which are located in a certain sequence relative to each other. Only with proper and timely maintenance can the possibility of product wear be eliminated. An example of this is the tooth setting, which is done from time to time to ensure the smooth running of the tool on the resulting cut.
Need for sharpening
The most obvious benefit of sharpness is speed of sawing. This is even more important in the country house than in the workshop, since you often have to work in cramped, awkward positions. A badly sharpened blade gets stuck in wood, especially wet wood. over, there is a risk that the blade will break and injure the person working.
Practical benefits of sharpening include:
- Accuracy of cuts.
- Longer blade life.
- Saving on saw blade changes.
- High carpentry productivity.
Identification of the right torque
People without experience often go from extreme to extreme and either sharpen the saw every few days, or once a year. Determining the need for sharpening by time is not the right approach.
There are a number of signs that indicate the teeth are blunt:
- The blade regularly gets stuck in the wood.
- The sound changes when sawing; it becomes more “blunt”.
- A change in the shade of the tines.
- Material resistance increases considerably.
- The tips of the teeth become noticeably rounded.
- The blade moves away from the cutting line.
Hardened teeth cannot be sharpened. They are easy to distinguish: they are blackish with a slight bluish cast.
How to Sharpen a Hand Hacksaw and Sharpen the Tooth
Sooner or later any cutting tool blade comes into disrepair and becomes blunt. In such a case, you do not need to change the entire tool. A proper sharpening is enough. This can be done with tools that are already in the house (most of the time). Of course, nothing will work if you do not know the right technology to perform all the operations. In this article, the master plumber will tell you how to sharpen a hand wood hacksaw and set the teeth.
To get a high quality cut, you need to understand the mechanism by which the edges of the hacksaw teeth impact the material you are cutting. Unlike steel and plastic, wood is not a homogeneous material, and for this reason several types of saws have been developed with different tooth profiles, angles of sharpening and degree of camber. All types of wood hacksaws, their characteristics and technical data are specified in GOST 26215-84.
Basic types of wood saw teeth: 1. cross-cutting type 1; 2. cross-cutting type 2; 3. longitudinal type 1; 4. longitudinal type 2; 5. compound sawing
There are three types of hacksaws: for cross-cutting, longitudinal, as well as universal. The main difference lies in the cutting principle: When sawing cross-cutting wood, the teeth encounter fragments with different densities. On the one hand, this circumstance plays into the hands: the generated shavings have smaller size and are easily removed from the contact zone, which allows the presence of sharpening on both sides of the tooth for sawing, both in forward and backward feed direction. On the other hand, cutting across the fibers is partly impact cutting, so blunter cutting edge angles are needed.
Sawing wood along the grain can be characterized as a repetitive micro planing cycle. the force on the tooth is uniform, so the teeth are asymmetrically shaped and point in the cutting direction. In this case the edge formed at the tip of the tooth is directed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the blade. Sawing lengthwise produces elongated chips that are difficult to remove from the contact zone. Also, longitudinal cutting produces greater amounts of moisture, resins and sticky substances, which together with the first factor prevents sawing in both directions. Chips are evacuated when the tool feeds straight: the perpendicular direction of the edge causes sawdust to be ejected in the sawing direction. swarf removal and self-cleaning of the edges during the reverse movement.
The teeth of all types of hacksaws are set and alternately sloped in different directions from the longitudinal axis of the blade. this creates a sort of dovetail in the longitudinal profile of the toothing row of the hacksaw. two sets of cutting wedges formed by the tips of the cutting edges of the teeth. Accordingly, at the bottom of the kerf the hacksaw forms two grooves, thus ensuring an evenly stepped removal and effective chip evacuation.
Qualified professionals know the following signs that indicate a saw is about to fail:
- When cutting wood the hacksaw starts to sound differently;
- Visually, it becomes noticeable that the tips of the teeth have rounded, lost their sharpness;
- The color of the teeth changes;
- The sawing force increases;
- The direction of the saw is poorly maintained;
- Frequent jamming of teeth in wood.
After setting, the hacksaw should be checked for even tooth height. Since the force applied to it may not be uniform, there is a chance of having teeth with less wear and tear protruding over the rest.
To locate such teeth on a hacksaw you can use a simple method. It requires thick paper or cardboard along the length of the cutting blade. The sheet should be placed on a flat surface, such as a table, leveled well, and then the cutting part of the blade pressed firmly against it. Teeth that are knocked out of alignment will make deeper indentations in the surface.
That way they can be easily identified and adjusted before sharpening. To remove the extra height, a variety of scrapers are used. While doing this job, you should try to keep the shape of each tooth of the hacksaw as much as possible.
What will be required:
Before sharpening, the teeth should be set. If there are no special tools available, it can be made with a thin steel plate. If you have a large overhang, make a kerf on it to the height of the tooth.
Then each tooth is hooked with a kerf on the plate and bent through one to one side, then skipped to the opposite. In general, each of them should bend in the same direction in which it was originally bent, only with a larger overhang.
Even easier is the setting with a smooth plate. It is inserted between the teeth and turned out so that it becomes parallel with the blade. From this movement the tooth is bent. It is then turned to the other side and bent the next tooth in the opposite direction. This way the set is narrower, but with the same offset on each tooth.
Then it is necessary to make a sharpening of each tooth bent away from itself. To do this, a triangular file is applied to the blade at an angle of 35-40°. Both ribs of the tooth are sharpened. The file is only moved upwards. For each edge 4-8 strokes are sufficient, depending on the degree of wear of the file.
Then the hacksaw is turned over in a vise and the remaining teeth are sharpened. Then it cuts the wood like butter. With infrequent use of a hacksaw, this procedure is repeated every couple of years, or even less frequently.
Sharpen the saw with a file
To sharpen your saw you need a triangular file.Clamp the hacksaw blade in a vise and at an angle of about 45 degrees start sharpening each tooth in turn. First sharpen through one on one side, then turn the blade over and sharpen the teeth on the other side.This is the most widespread and absolutely all accessible way of sharpening saw teeth.
The work is laborious and requires skill. But you will get the hang of it very quickly and won’t notice how you finish the last tooth of the saw. Now the saw is sharpened:
Files can also be used for sharpening.Again, it is a very laborious work, but it needs a lot of perseverance. I recommend getting rid of all distracting sources, so that nothing distracts from the work.Of course, when using a mechanized tool, the effort and time involved can be significantly reduced, but as has already been said. is the easiest and most affordable way to sharpen a hacksaw blade.
The modern market is full of offers from manufacturers. But there are companies that have stood the test of time. It is their products that are preferred by owners of circular saws. The short list of popular brands is as follows:
CMT. The company appeared in Italy back in 1962. Production was moved to China and only the head office remains in Europe.
“Makita”. The company was founded in 1915. A lot of time has passed since then, but Japanese products are still popular around the world.
“Bosch”. This name has long been a symbol of quality second to none. Bosh brand circular saw blades are welcome in every home workshop.
“Ataka.”. The organization appeared in 1998 in Russia. It can rightly be called the oldest supplier of consumables in the domestic market.
Metabo. The name comes from the German name of the hand drill. Assembly of the first products began in Germany after 1924.
DeWALT. The company’s global success story began in the USA. Since 1922, the brand has been producing power tool accessories.
Cutting-edge technology is not easy to figure out. Toolmakers are constantly improving their products. We suggest you watch a video that will help you make the right choice and learn a lot of useful information: