Why you can’t rub the valve with a drill?

You can’t rub the valves for a long time, while the conical chamfers are lost, they become semicircular and the tightness will remain for a short time.

Valve grinding is a process that provides the perfect fit of the intake and exhaust valve in the engine cylinders in their seats (saddles). Typically, the grinding is performed when the valves are replaced with new ones, or after the overhaul of the engine.

What is a grind and why rub the valve

The valve grinding is mainly polished on the surface of the valves (which allow fuel and air to flow freely) and in the place where they come into contact with each other. This is done by applying a special pasta to the edges of the valves. The result is ideal tightness, which will prevent gas output during the use of the engine.

The internal combustion engine works by achieving a certain degree of compression, which differs between models, and burning the air fuel mixture, which is compressed to a certain volume established by the compression factor. And if the fuel-air mixture flows through the saddle, the volume of the air fuel mixture will change, and the combustion process will not be accurate, which will lead to a decrease in engine performance.

  • Creates the maximum seal between the valve and the head, which will prevent gas output during engine operation.
  • The large area of ​​contact provides the scattering of heat from valves to the head, which will prevent the combustion of valves.

As a result, the whole process will lead to more subtle surfaces, eliminate minor defects, and create a more reliable tightness.

Why rub the valves

In the process of working on valve plates, as well as on the saddles. It prevents the hermetic closure of the inlet and exhaust valve. For normal engine operation, this is very important. After all, after the fuel-air mixture was drawn into the combustion chamber, the piston squeezes it, rising to its upper dead point. Inlet and exhaust valves must be closed. The stronger the compression degree, the more effective and economical the engine operation will be. Of course, with a loose landing of the intake valve in the saddle of maximum compression and the effective combustion of the mixture will no longer be with all the ensuing consequences.

However, in order to correct the situation, there are no particular difficulties. Time and effort has to be spent on removing the head of the cylinder block and the valves themselves. In addition, there is a high probability of the lack of need to rub each of them.

What will happen if you do not wipe the new valves?

In other words, if you do not wipe the new valves, then part of the energy of burned gases will be irrevocably lost instead of ensuring the proper power of the engine. At the same time, fuel consumption will certainly increase, and the power of the motor will definitely decrease.

DIY valve grinding is inconvenient and tiring, it takes a lot of time. On average, 15. 20 minutes per valve.

How to rub the valve with a drill?

Is it true that the valve should not fully fit to the surface and that it is not advisable to rub the drill? The best effect is manually.

We need small turns, from the paste drill will fly in all directions and all. Electric screwdriver. It’s the most thing, you take a trim of a gasoline, one end on the valve rod, the other on the nozzle of an electric screwdriver, tighten it with clamps so that it does not turn and flows (although it is possible without them), and you will garbage at small turns in different directions in different directions.

So I switched to an electric screwdriver when the corns on the palms of the corn, it went more fun with him πŸ™‚

Yes, you can check with kerosene, but there is another grandfather’s method. On the grinding side of Claman, apply the label with a pencil, put the valve in the starting position and scroll 2-3 times 2-3 times.With a right grinding, the labels from the pencil should be erased!

In general, the valve is caused after 9-11000 km., But if during operation they suddenly stood up with you, there is no traction (and everything seems to be all), sifts out, etc.D. You still climb into the cylinders and you need to fall in love and you need to look for the valve.On the “lapping” side of the valve there should not be all sorts of shuttle, shells, kotsek, strip, poke, burning (in the ideal case the surface should be perfectly even) otherwise you need to rub the valve. In general, if there is a knik for the repair of Moza at hand, everything is painted in a detailed way (if the book of time of our fathers)!

MBOR. It is black and will be on the other side))) you need to look at the chamfer on the valve. Reason and look

Yes, rub it with an electric screwdriver! Turn the current in different directions at low speed and be sure to make progressive movements. So the paste is better kept in the contact spot. And if a groove on the site of the chamfer appears on the valve. Change the NAFF!

SPVSIBO for parting words.Speak, there is no experience, then take it to car service.So if I take it. Then it will never be.

Most modern drills have a reverse and a reversal regulator. This is time! Second: take the old valve, clamp in the drill. On the flat side of chewing gum, sealant, plasticine. And on the flat side of the labeled valve. We turn on, there, there, then in a grinding.

The valves are lost, do not forget to put thermal gaps πŸ™‚

The drill cannot be rubbed. You can forget about the resource then.

Each season I rub several pairs of heads (people). I make a drill, at low speeds, with a reverse, diamond paste. It works great for everyone.

Messer. Please justify your point of view.

Messer. Yes uncle tell me what the resource has to do? Enlighten the unreasonable.

I’ll try for Messer. Reply. The chip is that you wrap the cada with a drill, you melt the guide with a valve as a result of which you then have a gap. Motics starts to haw oil.

Echo. At low speeds, it does not rotate much faster than hands. So I think this theory is insolvent, except that by gouging on the rod and the guide of the paste itself will fall.

Low speed drill. How much is this? And the screwdriver. How many?

By and large, there is nothing to do with the moment.

That you will make 1000 revolutions with your hands for 15 m, which is 1000 revolutions with a drill in 15 seconds. No difference for the resource.

I’ll try for Messer, answer. The chip is that you wrap the cada with a drill, you melt the guide with a valve as a result of which you then have a gap. Motics starts to haw oil.

In general, it is. Pasta spraying at high speeds inevitably falls on the guides. I don’t need a lot of it, but she can spoil. I have a few examples before my eyes. At the same time in different garages, the valve and Vanitch were rubbed in the valve. I. Manually, he. Drill. My season went away, and they would have walked, but I planned the springs to be tough and redistributed everything. And in the middle of the season, the compression died.

Messer. Well, if you do an electric screwdriver, there the speed of rotation is almost like hands, and nothing splashes, and even more so it does not reach the guide. Just no one says to press the shutter until it stops and garbage with bulged eyes, and then pull out the paste from the walls and the ceiling.

Well, you are bent and bent. This is how to make a firing, so that the paste in the guides climb? Or deliberately smear the valve legs? Citizens, horror tell. Messer, Strina, I rubbed a drill many times and everything is fine for more than one season, people even forgot about the valve.

possible, valve, drill, valves

Dikiy_mex. I agree. Even if big turns. By centrifugal power, the paste is striving outside. In addition, it is desirable to lubricate the valve rod.

Papas. Well, these are large turns, then just the whole pasta reaches on the pants.

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Dikiy_mex. I do not like a drill, heavy and the wire interferes. But the electric screwdriver is the most! He has more smoothly than on the drill regulation.

Docent from Chernetsky. Why are the rod straight to the cartridge pinch? 😯 I said. Through a trim, he will play the role of a damper, and everything will be ok.

In general, everything is clear. The main thing. Small turns and the absence of lateral loads on the valve rod and guide.

If the valve is new and the sedla is not gobbled up, then it is not manually.

I used to grind my hands for a segment of a gasket, but when you make a couple of a couple of heads a month. Anyone will think about mechanization. After discovered diamond paste. The dust from the emery mixed with butter was forgotten like a nightmare. Lateral loads are absent in any way, the head of another valve with a cut rod and a slot is glued to the valve head with bitumen. In a shredded semblance of screwdrivers with antennae on the sides. Well, of course. Spring under the valve.

So we can just suffer with needlework, or did not look at what. I am a drill of the work and not a nonsense.

But there is such a tool, the columnar of the name. In the form of a crooked starter and with a cartridge from email.Drills at the end. The same hands are only more convenient.

possible, valve, drill, valves

Someone has pictures of balls? What are they?

They are metal crowns with a solid alloy soldered in them at a certain angle. Well, in general, some flat drill.

In said “flat drill”, who did not see the balls, it may not be known what to take out of phanthesia. πŸ™‚

Who knows. I rub with my hands a gas-rod for 3 minutes and the valve holds kerosene for a quarter of an hour πŸ™‚ only of course the chamfers need to be corrected with balls, if they are already bad, then everything is perfectly rubbing.Paste Lapirokoye from VMPAVTO, Tara in the idea of ​​such a healthy plastic valve πŸ™‚ I recommend a very good weight, I recommend it for a long time, not only for you, but also for a crowd of opposites πŸ™‚ By the way, shawls to the Urals are suitable from the vase of classics and I use it, I need to take it With winning attacks, there are 500 set of 6 balls with a guide. A combination of balls from the Volga (UAZ) is suitable for the Dnieper, just come to bend under the guide with a diameter of 8mm new (on the Volga valve diameter 10 mm). Here, recently I changed the saddles on the head, the grinding of valves with shrust took no more than an hour with smokers πŸ™‚ And Drugan twins the drill, it also turns out anything like it turns out. Mixa. The spring is put on the valve rod so that it lifts the plate from the saddle, when you do not press on the valve, very little, a couple of millimeters.

How to rub the valve with a drill?

Is it true that the valve should not fully fit to the surface and that it is not advisable to rub the drill? The best effect is manually.

We need small turns, from the paste drill will fly in all directions and all. Electric screwdriver. It’s the most thing, you take a trim of a gasoline, one end on the valve rod, the other on the nozzle of an electric screwdriver, tighten it with clamps so that it does not turn and flows (although it is possible without them), and you will garbage at small turns in different directions in different directions.

So I switched to an electric screwdriver when the corns on the palms of the corn, it went more fun with him πŸ™‚

Yes, you can check with kerosene, but there is another grandfather’s method. On the grinding side of Claman, apply the label with a pencil, put the valve in the starting position and scroll 2-3 times 2-3 times.With a right grinding, the labels from the pencil should be erased!

In general, the valve is caused after 9-11000 km., But if during operation they suddenly stood up with you, there is no traction (and everything seems to be all), sifts out, etc.D. You still climb into the cylinders and you need to fall in love and you need to look for the valve.On the “lapping” side of the valve there should not be all sorts of shuttle, shells, kotsek, strip, poke, burning (in the ideal case the surface should be perfectly even) otherwise you need to rub the valve. In general, if there is a knik for the repair of Moza at hand, everything is painted in a detailed way (if the book of time of our fathers)!

MBOR. It is black and will be on the other side))) you need to look at the chamfer on the valve. Reason and look

Yes, rub it with an electric screwdriver! Turn the current in different directions at low speed and be sure to make progressive movements. So the paste is better kept in the contact spot. And if a groove on the site of the chamfer appears on the valve. Change the NAFF!

SPVSIBO for parting words.Speak, there is no experience, then take it to car service.So if I take it. Then it will never be.

Most modern drills have a reverse and a reversal regulator. This is time! Second: take the old valve, clamp in the drill. On the flat side of chewing gum, sealant, plasticine. And on the flat side of the labeled valve. We turn on, there, there, then in a grinding.

The valves are lost, do not forget to put thermal gaps πŸ™‚

The drill cannot be rubbed. You can forget about the resource then.

Each season I rub several pairs of heads (people). I make a drill, at low speeds, with a reverse, diamond paste. It works great for everyone.

Messer. Please justify your point of view.

Messer. Yes uncle tell me what the resource has to do? Enlighten the unreasonable.

I’ll try for Messer. Reply. The chip is that you wrap the cada with a drill, you melt the guide with a valve as a result of which you then have a gap. Motics starts to haw oil.

Echo. At low speeds, it does not rotate much faster than hands. So I think this theory is insolvent, except that by gouging on the rod and the guide of the paste itself will fall.

Low speed drill. How much is this? And the screwdriver. How many?

By and large, there is nothing to do with the moment.

That you will make 1000 revolutions with your hands for 15 m, which is 1000 revolutions with a drill in 15 seconds. No difference for the resource.

I’ll try for Messer, answer. The chip is that you wrap the cada with a drill, you melt the guide with a valve as a result of which you then have a gap. Motics starts to haw oil.

In general, it is. Pasta spraying at high speeds inevitably falls on the guides. I don’t need a lot of it, but she can spoil. I have a few examples before my eyes. At the same time in different garages, the valve and Vanitch were rubbed in the valve. I. Manually, he. Drill. My season went away, and they would have walked, but I planned the springs to be tough and redistributed everything. And in the middle of the season, the compression died.

Messer. Well, if you do an electric screwdriver, there the speed of rotation is almost like hands, and nothing splashes, and even more so it does not reach the guide. Just no one says to press the shutter until it stops and garbage with bulged eyes, and then pull out the paste from the walls and the ceiling.

Well, you are bent and bent. This is how to make a firing, so that the paste in the guides climb? Or deliberately smear the valve legs? Citizens, horror tell. Messer, Strina, I rubbed a drill many times and everything is fine for more than one season, people even forgot about the valve.

Dikiy_mex. I agree. Even if big turns. By centrifugal power, the paste is striving outside. In addition, it is desirable to lubricate the valve rod.

Papas. Well, these are large turns, then just the whole pasta reaches on the pants.

Dikiy_mex. I do not like a drill, heavy and the wire interferes. But the electric screwdriver is the most! He has more smoothly than on the drill regulation.

Docent from Chernetsky. Why are the rod straight to the cartridge pinch? 😯 I said. Through a trim, he will play the role of a damper, and everything will be ok.

In general, everything is clear. The main thing. Small turns and the absence of lateral loads on the valve rod and guide.

If the valve is new and the sedla is not gobbled up, then it is not manually.

I used to grind my hands for a segment of a gasket, but when you make a couple of a couple of heads a month. Anyone will think about mechanization. After discovered diamond paste. The dust from the emery mixed with butter was forgotten like a nightmare. Lateral loads are absent in any way, the head of another valve with a cut rod and a slot is glued to the valve head with bitumen. In a shredded semblance of screwdrivers with antennae on the sides. Well, of course. Spring under the valve.

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So we can just suffer with needlework, or did not look at what. I am a drill of the work and not a nonsense.

But there is such a tool, the columnar of the name. In the form of a crooked starter and with a cartridge from email.Drills at the end. The same hands are only more convenient.

Someone has pictures of balls? What are they?

They are metal crowns with a solid alloy soldered in them at a certain angle. Well, in general, some flat drill.

In said “flat drill”, who did not see the balls, it may not be known what to take out of phanthesia. πŸ™‚

Who knows. I rub with my hands a gas-rod for 3 minutes and the valve holds kerosene for a quarter of an hour πŸ™‚ only of course the chamfers need to be corrected with balls, if they are already bad, then everything is perfectly rubbing.Paste Lapirokoye from VMPAVTO, Tara in the idea of ​​such a healthy plastic valve πŸ™‚ I recommend a very good weight, I recommend it for a long time, not only for you, but also for a crowd of opposites πŸ™‚ By the way, shawls to the Urals are suitable from the vase of classics and I use it, I need to take it With winning attacks, there are 500 set of 6 balls with a guide. A combination of balls from the Volga (UAZ) is suitable for the Dnieper, just come to bend under the guide with a diameter of 8mm new (on the Volga valve diameter 10 mm). Here, recently I changed the saddles on the head, the grinding of valves with shrust took no more than an hour with smokers πŸ™‚ And Drugan twins the drill, it also turns out anything like it turns out. Mixa. The spring is put on the valve rod so that it lifts the plate from the saddle, when you do not press on the valve, very little, a couple of millimeters.

Valve grinding methods

There are actually two ways to grind valves. Manual and mechanized. However, a manual grinding is a laborious and costly process in time. Therefore, it is better to use the so.Called mechanized method, using a drill or electric screwdriver. However, we will analyze one and the other method in order.

Regardless of the chosen grinding method, first of all, it is necessary to dismantle the valves from the cylinder head (it should also be pre.Dismantled). To extract the valve from the guide bushings of the cylinder head, it is necessary to remove the valve springs. To do this, use a special device, and then remove the Sukhari springs from the plates.

Manual method of grinding

To perform the lapping of the valves of the car engine, you must follow the algorithm below:

  • After dismantling the valve, it is necessary to clean it carefully of the car. To do this, it is better to use special cleaning products, as well as an abrasive surface in order to carefully remove plaque, grease, and dirt from the surface.
  • Apply a continuous thin layer of laundry pasta to the valve chamfer (for a start, a coarse.Grained paste is used, and then fine.Grained).
  • In the event that a home.Made device described above is used for grinding, then it must be inserted into its saddle, turn the head of the cylinder block, and put on the holder on a valve sleeve and a lubricated linenable paste valve. Next, you need to tighten the bolt in order to fix the valve in the pipe as strong as possible.
  • Then you need to rotate the lapping device together with the valve alternately in both directions by half of the turnover (about Β± 25 Β°). After one or two minutes, it is necessary to rotate the valve 90 Β° in or counterclockwise, repeat the back-on-standing movements along the grinding. The valve must be rubbed, periodically pressing it to the saddle, and then releasing it, repeat the procedure cyclically.
  • Manual valve grinding must be performed before the matte-gray, even plain belt appears on the chamfer. Its width is about 1.75 2.32 mm for inlet valves, and 1.44 1.54 mm for graduation valves. After the grinding of a dull gray belt of the corresponding size should appear not only on the valve itself, but also on its saddle.
  • Another feature by which you can indirectly judge that the grinding can be finished is a change in the sound of the procedure. If at the beginning of the rubbing it is purely “metallic” and loud, then closer to the end the sound will be more muffled. That is, when it is not rubbed for metal for metal, but a metal on a matte surface. Typically, the grinding process takes 5 10 minutes (depends on the specific situation and the state of the valve mechanism).
  • Usually the grinding is performed using a paste of different granularity. First use coarse.Grained paste, and then fine.Grained paste. The algorithm for their use is the same. However, the second paste can only be used after it is well polished and hardens the layer of the first pasta.
  • After performing the grinding, it is necessary to thoroughly wipe the valve and its saddle with a clean rag, and you can also wash the surface of the valve in order to remove the remaining liner paste from its surface.
  • Check the quality of the grinding by checking the concentricity of the valve plate plate and its saddle. To do this, apply a thin layer of graphite with a pencil to the chain of the valve head. Next, the marked valve must be inserted into the guide sleeve, slightly pressed to the saddle, then crank. According to the resulting traces of graphite, one can judge the concentricity of the location of the valve and its saddle. If the grinding is good, then from one turning of the valve all the dashes applied will be extended. If this does not happen, the grinding must be repeated before the specified condition is fulfilled. However, the full verification is performed by another method described below.
  • Upon completion of the valve grinding, all working surfaces of the parts are washed with kerosene in order to remove the remains of the laundry and dirt. Valve leg and sleeve are lubricated with engine oil. Next, the valve is installed on their seats in the cylinder head head.

In the process of grinding valves, it is necessary to get rid of the following types of defects:

  • Nar on chamfers that did not lead to deformation of the chamfer (valve).
  • Nar on chamfers, which led to deformation. In particular, a stepped surface appeared on their conical surface, and the chamfer itself became round.

Please note that if in the first case the valve can simply be wiped, then in the second you must definitely perform its groove. In some cases, the grinding is performed in several stages. For example, a gross grinding is carried out until all shells and scratches are removed on the surface of the processed part. Often, paste with different grain levels are used for grinding. A large abrasive is designed to remove significant damage, and small. For refinement. Accordingly, the smaller abrasive is used, the better the shame of the valves is considered. Usually pastes have rooms. For example, 1. Finish, 2. Black. It is undesirable to get an abrasive pasta on other elements of the valve mechanism. If she got there, rinse her with kerosene.

Wapen valves with a drill

Drinking valve grinding is the most optimal option with which you can save time and effort. Its principle is similar to manual grinding. The algorithm for its execution is as follows:

  • Take a prepared metal rod and put on it a rubber hose of a suitable diameter. For better fixing, you can use the clamp of the corresponding diameter.
  • The mentioned metal rod with attached rubber hose is fixed in the electrodelers (or electric screwdriver) in the cartridge.
  • Take the valve and put on its rod a spring, and then install it on the seat.
  • Having slightly extended the valve from the head of the cylinder block, apply a small amount of lapping pasta around the perimeter of its plate to its chamfer.
  • Insert the valve rod into the rubber hose. If necessary, also use the corresponding diameter with a clamp better for better fastening.
  • At low speeds of the drill, start rubbing the valve on its landing place. In this case, you need to move it back and forth, which, in fact, will help the installed spring. After several seconds of rotation in one direction, you need to switch the drill to the reverse, and rotate it in the opposite direction.
  • The procedure is performed in the same way, until the matte belt appears on the valve body.
  • At the end of the grinding, thoroughly wipe the valve from the remains of the pasta, preferably using a solvent. Over, you need to remove the paste not only from the chamfers of the valve, but also from its saddle.

How to wipe the valves with your own hands video works at home on a vaz

Each owner of a VAZ car, who prefer to engage in the repair of his car, will sooner or later collide with the need to wipe the valves of the gas distribution mechanism. The question for many is urgent and requiring careful study, after which it will be quite possible to cope with the task on their own, without resorting to the help of automakers.

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Why need to rub the valves

The following methods of solving the problem are more oriented to the owners of the VAZ classics (VAZ 2101–2106), but in the case of models of the VAZ 2108–2109, the process will not differ much by the process. In many points, it is generally universal.

Most often, the need for valve grinding is faced with the overhaul of the engine. Piston rings with gaskets have been replaced, other important components have been installed, so now it’s time to check the valves for tightness: this is how the need for their grinding is revealed.

It should also be remembered that this procedure will be useful during other repair work. In particular, those in which the cylinder block is dismantled. It is always better to play it safe.

Ford E-Transit How far can you drive when it’s loaded down?

possible, valve, drill, valves

Why is it important to maintain the correct level of compression in the engine

One of the most important qualitative characteristics of the engine is the presence of a compression level recommended by the manufacturer in the combustion chambers of cylinders. This characteristic depends on:

  • The degree of wear of the cylinder itself, its piston rings, as well as the piston;
  • The qualities and integrity of the sealing laying located between the HBC and the cylinder block directly;
  • How tightly the intake valves, and with them, the exhaust adjacent to their landing sites to avoid passing gases through the gaps.

Ideally, in all cylinders, compression should be at the same level. And since the wear of the components of the piston group is almost the same, the fact of detection in the cylinders excellent compression from each other may indicate poor operation of the valves.

Lap Valves the EASY SAFE way on GT40 Iron Heads

By the magnitude of the compression, you can first judge the state of the engine: if it is not the same in cylinders, it’s time to rub the valves

When it’s time to think about the grinding

Even a novice motorist may notice signs of a malfunction:

The very process of the grinding itself is that the working area of ​​the valve on the plate is rubbed to its landing saddle.

How to check the valves of the vase for tightness

Experienced car mechanics recommend checking the tightness of the connection as follows:

  • To begin with, the head of the cylinder block is turned over so that the combustion chambers look up.
  • Then a syringe is taken and a little diesel fuel or kerosene (better. Kerosene) in each of the cameras is injected.
  • If, with a valve closed, the liquid begins to decrease, then it is concluded that the valve does not fit his saddle tightly enough.

The main methods of grinding

You can rub the valves using specialized equipment or a utility tool:

  • The first option is to use an automated machine. In this case, even the grinding as such is not: the chamfer of the valve and the saddle is simply cut, which ensures the most rigid centering and the accuracy of the conjugation. At the output we get a high.Strength profile that can provide excellent motor operation.

Automated valves grinding process on the machine

  • You can rub the valves on a manual milling machine. There are many machines, including those designed for engines of certain modifications. Here, too, everything is done quickly enough and accurately.If the garage has a manual milling machine, valve grinding can be performed efficiently and promptly
  • DIY valve grinding. The popular method, but at the same time, the most time.Consuming and long.Term. All defects and irregularities of the surface are removed using a special abrasive pasta, and a special T-shaped device with a hole for inserting the valve leg is used as the main tool.

A special key for manual valve grinding will simplify manual work

To carry out the work quickly and get a quality result, it is necessary to observe this sequence of actions:

  • The disassembled HBC is installed on the workbench and is reliably fixed.
  • The desired valve is placed in its place, and its rod is fixed in the tool.
  • A layer of lapping pasta is applied to the contact zone of the valve with its saddle.
  • Then the valve is placed in such a way that the clearance is completely absent.
  • Circular movements are made clockwise and against.
  • After some time, the valve is turned over, an abrasive paste is applied with a new layer and rotation is resumed.
  • The grinding process continues until a matte homogeneous strip of 1.5–2.0 millimeters is formed on the valve saddle and its plate.

Winsen valves manually without tools

The method itself is quite tiring. But allows you to fully control the grinding process and track the resulting result.

We pick up a screwdriver

Since not everyone has the right amount of free time, patience and perseverance, people’s craftsmen were introduced by another method using screwdriver.

The drill is often recommended, but its cartridge has much higher rotation, which may not affect the final result in the best way. So if you still dwell on the drill, then you need to take a tool with the ability to adjust the revolutions and the function of the reverse. You can rub the valves in this case either through the combustion chambers, or just from above.

Valve grinding from the combat camera

The work is performed in the following sequence:

  • First of all, small continuous washers are made of metal with a diameter slightly smaller than that of valve plates. Holes are cut through the center of these goals, as for a flat screwdriver.
  • Using molten bitumen (or its analogues), the washers with slots are attached to valve plates.
  • The HBC is turned over by the adjustment chambers, the required valve is placed in its place and a layer of pasta is applied to the labeled area.
  • A rod with an ending is attached to the drill cartridge, like a flat screwdriver.
  • The flat ending of the rod is inserted into a section of the washer and at low speeds of the drill the valve grinding begins.
  • In each direction the valve turns about ten times. It must also be remembered that when changing the direction of rotation, an abrasive paste should be re.Applied.
  • After the procedure, its spring clings to the valve.
  • You can remove the puck from the valve by heating it.
  • The remaining bitumen is removed by a solvent, gasoline or similar agents.

Checking the grinding

After the grinding of the units is completed, it is necessary to check the quality of the procedure. You can check this in the process with the help of graphite to identify how accurately the rubbing. For verification, gasoline or kerosene is used. The second is preferable because it is more fluent and less viscous. There are several ways to check. Not all of them provide a guarantee of the correctness of the procedure.

The head of the cylinder blocks after the end of the rubbing must be put to one side, so that the holes of the wells are directed upward. In this position, the covers of the dull parts will be located vertically. For clarity, it is necessary to completely dry them with the compressor. After that, gasoline or kerosene must be poured into the holes at the top.

If the rubbing was carried out correctly, the liquid will not flow through the holes. However, this method does not guarantee the complete tightness of the valves. For engines with the EGR, this method will also not work: they have specialized valves through which the liquid in this case will proceed.

If kerosene seeps even in small quantities, it is necessary to continue rubbing or perform other repair work.

This method is universal. It is suitable for all engines and allows you to check the quality of rubbing is guaranteed to. He checks whether this part of the power unit withstands the pressure.

In this case, the engine head should be located as if “upside down” so that the holes of the wells are on the side. A small amount of fuel or kerosene is poured into the valve plate. No matter what fuel and in what condition will be used. The characteristics of the poured fluid do not matter.

In the side well using the air compressor, it is necessary to suppose compressed air. It is fed into the openings of the intake and graduation collectors. With a qualitatively completed procedure, air bubbles will not appear from the valves even at a high pressure level.

If there are bubbles of air under pressure, we can say that tightness is not achieved. In this case, the rubbing must be re.Performed. Or other repair work is required.

Sealing parts of the engine is necessary to maintain its power and reduce fuel consumption. You can perform it at home. The main thing is to observe accuracy and perform all actions in accordance with the requirements of caution. The correct rubbing of the details will allow sealing the valve independently, maintain engine craving and reduce fuel consumption.

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