Attachments for the circular saw: a brief description, device, principle of operation, photos

Everyone who at least once worked with a manual circular saw knows how difficult it is to make a clear and straight cut with it. Many solve this problem with the simplest devices, like a strip of plywood or plastic, which is attached to the surface with clamps. However, it is much more convenient to use a special guide rail for this purpose.

Such a device is very rarely included in the set of hand circular saws, and in stores is offered at a price often comparable to the cost of the saw itself. It seems strange, because it is not distinguished by the complexity of design. If you have the necessary materials, it is quite possible to make the guide bar yourself, which we will tell you about in this article.

Attachments for multi-tools

Beginning craftsmen doubt that it is possible to make a straight cut with a manual mechanical tool. This is true if you cut according to the markings, but you can make the work easier by using a purchased or homemade guide,

Hand-held woodworking tools, especially those of modern design, are sometimes amazed by the number of auxiliary devices that help in the performance of sawing the material. The simplest auxiliary device is a simple stop on the saw’s base with an indicator of the line the cut will be made on.

The most popular addition is a short rail with adjustable extension length. complicated constructions have a roller on such a guide so that the saw’s movement is not hindered by contact with the edge of the material.

Sometimes they put indicators showing laser cutting lines and other devices, which have the same disadvantages. All of these mechanisms serve to indicate that the saw blade has moved beyond the cut trimmer line. All simple mechanisms indicate inaccurate sawing.

Why then all these systems that do not allow the amateur to make a simple cut? Where is the error in this approach? All well-known woodworking machines for professional woodworking have a parallel clamping device for constant pressure on the material to be cut and a rigid stop. Often this stop moves. For professional tools, there is an Interskol handheld circular saw guide rail that can be applied to another overhead mechanism.

Then the tremor in the forearm muscles has no effect on the direction of the cut because it is controlled by the rigid stop. Some would say that surgeons don’t use stops and know how to do complex and precise surgery. They probably do, but their material is more susceptible to machining, and perfectly straight lines don’t matter.

To reduce the cost of purchasing a guide bar for circular saws, you can make one yourself. With this homemade piece, the only thing you’ll have to worry about during the cutting process is to hold the saw firmly to the stop and slowly move it forward. Materials necessary for making, tools can be found in every workshop.

For example, a panel of thick plywood should be five centimeters wider than the saw’s base width. The length depends on the workpieces you have to cut. Optimal dimensions:

The support strip must be the same length as the length of the guide. The width should ensure a secure bond with the panel surface. not less than 3 cm or even much wider. The height of the slat must be at least 12mm. Optimal size of the stop: 100 cm x 3 cm x 1.5 cm.

One note when choosing a slat in the supermarket. it must have one thin side flat. How to check it? Lay the rail on a flat table and check for any bulges or gaps. It is this flat surface of the slat that will provide a straight line for the trimmer cut.

When all materials are assembled, you can begin to make a parallel stop for the circular saw with your own hands. First measure the distance between the saw and the edge of the panel toward the longest part of the panel. To the obtained result add some 3 cm. This size will serve as the centerline, 2 cm away from the edge.

Then measure the width of the base of the saw and draw the second line for the trimmer. This dimension is necessary to mark out the area where the saw will pass. Mark the space between the lines with a pencil so that there is no doubt that this area is off from work and is only for the movement of the saw. When all the dimensions are outlined, begin mounting the rail:

  • Smear the rail with glue and place it along the second line intended for the stop.
  • Press with a clamp to ensure secure gluing.
  • Leave for 12 hours to allow the glue to fully cure.

When everything is securely fastened, you need to calibrate the device by making the first cut. To do this, set the saw up to the stop, trying to make so that the edge of the saw base was evenly pressed against the bar and with an even motion along the bar perform a cut. It is this first cut on the stop guide that will calibrate the device for further work.

When the stop is ready, you can safely use it to get a quick cut. On the material to be cut, mark the fishing line for the trimmer of the cut. Along this line, lay the new guide so that the working edge lies on the line. the saw will cut the material exactly in that spot.

After carefully laying down and making sure that there is no tabletop on the other side of the material to be cut, the saw is pressed closely against the stop and, moving along the guide, cut off the desired size of material. While sawing you need to press the saw lightly against the device and against the surface of the stop, this will ensure a straight cut. Move it smoothly and evenly. The end result will be an even line for the trimmer cut. There are two interesting facts worth noting when using a handheld circular saw attachment:

  • First, the soft material will not crumble while cutting.
  • Secondly, the guide provides additional protection against jagged edges of the cut material due to hand shake and uneven saw movement.

In the carpenter’s home workshop there will always be a place for a self-made mitre saw from a handmade circular saw. To make it, you need to have a homemade guide ruler and a circular saw carriage.

For making the ruler, we need several pieces of 12 mm plywood and a metal profile of 10×20 mm. The length of the ruler is 1,5 meters. Using a router with a diameter of 20 millimeters, a slot is milled to fit the profile over the entire length of the device. The profile is fastened with screws. A stiffener is fixed parallel to the profile line at a distance of 12 centimeters.

Stop for cross-cut and angle cuts

A cross-cutting fixture is also often used. With its help, boards are cut quickly and accurately at an angle of 90°. Such a stop is also used for facing boards. Its base is a sheet of plywood 10 mm thick. On it with glue or self-drilling screws fix a guide bar or a rail not less than 20 mm high. On the underside of the base, mount the stop, perpendicular to the guide bar and made of the same bar.

The excess part of the base (from the guide bar to the saw blade) is cut off. Since this distance for each model of hand circular saw is different, and the device is always made individually. It is usually fastened to the material to be worked with clamps.

Advanced craftsmen make their mounting devices from wooden washers, one of which has the shape of an eccentric. Clamping is carried out by a wing nut on the screw. This clamping device allows very fast fast fastening of the stop on lumber of different widths.

If on the other side of the rail to install the same bar, but fixed at an angle of 45 ° to the first, and then the same saw cut off part of the basis under 45 °, you get angular universal stop for cuts and under 45 °, and under 90 °. A more versatile angle stop design will be obtained if the bar is rotatable. And for the observance of the angle can be monitored by the protractor, attached to the top. It should be noted that making a protractor for a circular saw with their own hands is a more difficult task.

How to choose?

When choosing the right tool, you need to consider the work tool and the material to be dealt with. The most popular guides are those made in Germany (“Bosch”) and Japan (“Makita”). Machines from these manufacturers ensure absolute precision of the cutting line.

Bus bars are expensive, but pay for themselves over time if used in production.

Before buying a tool, you should make sure that it is free of defects (no curvature). Damage often occurs during transport.

Among the domestic manufacturers of good tools makes “Interskol”. Dimensions of the bars:

Material. aluminum with a special coating, there is a protective film that protects against damage. The bar is compatible with DP-235 and DP-210/1900EM models.

The bar called “Saddle” is ideal for cutting a variety of bars. It consists of such elements:

The sides are made to such a size that there is a support for the disc.

“Makita makes guides for SP6000 and CA5000 devices. You can attach adapters to them that fit hand tools.

There is also an adapter that allows you to compile the guides without any gaps. Manufacturers DeWALT, Elitech, Hitachi often produce tires exclusively for their equipment.

Makeshift fence for table saw. Make A Table Saw Fence.

What is needed, the circular saw and the parallel stop now have a guide channel. We unify our customer remains together, using a small piece of fiberboard in the shape of an inverted “T”, it will be screwed to the back of the stop and inserted into the guide channel. The width of the channel is directly related to the thickness of the fiberboard T-bar, which ensures a tight placement of the T-bar in the channel.

Align the positions of the stop using an iron ruler, this will ensure that the stop is parallel to the saw blade. Connect, firmly, together the stop and the T-shaped mounting piece. Working with the stop, I figured hardwoods are better than Fibreboard, changing the T-bar from Fibreboard took actually one minute. Any discrepancy in the finished settings, will result in changes to the overall options, be prepared for this.

In locking the stop the slots for the unusual stop are applied. The locking mechanism is simple: bolt with thread and nut, hole in either the upper strip of the parallel stop, wooden washer. Tightening the bolt, the block pulls the stop down toward the table top and clamps very firmly.

Stop not pulls on the prize of the most beautiful project, alas it is made from wood and laminate waste, even went unused bolts and nuts from industrial devices. Changing the dimensions of the cuts is now quick and much easier compared to the initial stop system. The resulting niches in the stop “s” I use to store pencils, tape measure, ruler and other appropriate tools, as the proverb says, they are “always on hand”.

How to make a template for the guide with my own hands?

The guide rail for the circular saw. it can be made by sawing a straight sheet of particle board out of the available means.

When long cuts are required to be made using a circular saw, a considerable amount of time must be spent to make all measurements needed to set the guide in relation to the cutting line to exactly match the width of the base of the structure.

To simplify this procedure, it is necessary to cut a template out of fiberboard, which is equal in width to the distance from the outermost part of the tool base to the inner edge of the saw blade. Next, the template is trimmed to the length of the tool base. To use the template, you must align its edge with the kerf mark in the workpiece, and to the other side put the straight guide and secure it with a clamp.

Parallel stop

A simple parallel stop for your circular saw is a good example of how a small addition can make a big difference. Almost every portable circular saw is equipped with a parallel stop for longitudinal sawing of set width. This is a really useful attachment.

The standard parallel stop has one drawback. For safety purposes, it is set to a value that makes it possible to make cuts less than 20-25 mm wide. Made to ensure that the stop does not interfere with the movement of the blade guard. But it is enough to screw a wooden block to the parallel strip of the standard stop and its possibilities will be increased and the minimum cutting width will not be limited in any way.

Please note! You must remember about safety. when you make cuts less than 15mm the bar does not allow the blade guard to cover the saw blade.

Using the rail jigsaw

The use of the rail saw is advisable if you need to quickly and qualitatively process a large number of boards. In the manufacturing process are used:

parallel, stop, circular, hands

Metal corners are installed on a plywood base. Angles are fastened with bolts. which act as studs. in the corners of the base. Angles are placed on the same plane strictly parallel to each other. This is to ensure that the circular saw slides freely along the rail during work, does not jam and does not slide off it. With the help of studs set the height of fixing the corners, necessary for free movement of the processed material between the base and the rails. The edge of the cutting wheel should not be too high off the base, without damaging it at the same time. For easier sliding of the saw on the corners glued PTFE strips or make a frame with wheels for it, which is preferable.

Source material is sawn into blanks, using a parallel stop for a circular saw while working. Their own hands can easily be made from a wooden bar or a metal angle, secured to the workbench clamps.

parallel, stop, circular, hands

Having made a marking on the workbench, the bar is set at the desired distance from the stop and, having set the end of the board into it, cut the workpiece.

If you need to saw a workpiece at an angle, it is fixed with a stop made of a pair of screws screwed into the base, and the angular inclination of the sawing is set with the protractor.

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