Sparks, smoke, crunch and smell of Gary: what can break in a drill or electric screwdriver
“Drill” Drill sparkles on brushes, regardless of the brand of the penetrator and its manufacturer, sooner or later the moment comes when the tool is out of order. Malfunctions are electrical and mechanical. Of the electrical problems, the most common are those associated with the wear of the brushes. It is easy to replace them on their own.
Brushes are parts that are current conductors from the cable cord to the collector winding. He launches rotation of the anchor into the work and regulates its speed. Brushes in the penetrator or drill using the switch control the direction of revolutions, even with the most careful use of the tool, they have the property of abrasion and are subject to replacement.
The most common causes of wear are:
In the case of the infrequent use of the power tool in work, the brushes can be changed once a year in order to prevent breakdown.
If your tool is intended for daily intensive work, you need to look closely at it. There are some signs that indicate the wear of the brushes:
The main reasons why the peorator sparks
- Incorrect installation
- Worn state
- Incorrect installation of the brush holders
- Poor fit to the collector
- Too strong pressing details
- The use of components of the wrong brand to which the tool belongs
In any case, the device should be disassembled from the above reasons and inspect the nodes.
If the time has come in the ashrater to change the brushes, for this task you can hand over the tool to the service center, or you can replace them with your own hands.
Polyurethane Crack Injection
Service in the service center has several advantages:
- High.quality work, in the case of contacting a specialized center
- Original components. for your tool model
- Extension of the warranty if the deadline has not yet expired
- In addition to replacing the broken part, usually completely internal important details are examined in the service, they are cleaned and lubricated
Features of the repair of power tools in the service center:
If you are not satisfied with these inconveniences associated with the repair of the tool in a specialized center, it is better to complete the task yourself. over, the process of replacing the brushes is quite simple.
How to independently replace the brushes?
The installation process is performed in stages:
- The peorator turned off from the outlet must be untwisted to remove the upper cover.
- With the help of a small screwdriver, it is necessary to easily hook the brush holder, get it and remove old parts.
- Insert new into the holder, press to the edges, install them in place inside the device.
- Check that the brushes are taken to contacts for the uninterrupted operation of the power tool.
- Close with a lid and fix it with screws.
Tip: If the warranty period of repair of the power tool has not yet expired, it is better to hand over it for service to the service center.
When performing work independently, experts recommend:
- When erasing one brush, both contacts are subject to replacement
- During the repair, at the same time it is necessary to clean the collector from dust and soot
- Contacts must be better wiped to the collector using sandpaper fine.grained paper
- Put the components better than the corresponding models of the tool
Replacement of the peorater brushes. a simple process. It is easily performed at home.
Why spark the drill?
Wireless and connected to the network are electrodelers are useful for a number of household and construction projects. However, like all power tools, they require users to take precautions. If you notice sparking, this can be a cause for concern. In other cases, the sparks that are prominent inside the drill are part of the normal operation.
The collector engine sparkles
Powerful drills usually use direct current, a collector motor for converting electric energy into motion that the discs rotated the drill.
DC motors control electromagnetic fields around the collector, where sparks from the electromagnetic charge are emitted. In some electric drills, these sparks are clearly visible through the hole in the drill housing.
Drill collector sparks whenever it works at any speed, this is a normal part of the operation of the drill.
Should a new drill spark? If it has a direct current collector engine, then yes. However, sparking should be consistent and relatively contained inside the drill.
The presence of a spark does not mean that you should not take special precautions. Even small sparks can ignite garbage, such as sawdust from drilling wood.
Sparks can light up flammable gas, so work in a clean, well.ventilated place, this is important.
The battery sparkles
Wireless electrodelers use batteries for portable. They can create an inner spark, therefore, if the drill sparkles inside, this is part of the normal operation.
However, they should never spark the battery compartment. If the battery sparkles when installing in a drill, or sparkles even when it is not attached, this is probably a closure.
Closing the battery contacts can solve the problem, but in other cases, sparking is not safe, and the battery requires replacement.
What to do if the drill sparks: other cases
If your drill is very sparkling and warming, where the cord enters the drill housing, or if the power cord sparkles, where it is inserted into the outlet, the drill should not be used until you fix the cord.
If the bit sparkles during drilling, it can be metal fragments inside the wood or composite material, and this is a sign that the continuation of the drilling will lead to damage to the bit.
Other spontaneous sparks can indicate problems with the motor, which can be potentially dangerous.
The drill sparkles on the brushes. the drill began to sparkle hard! What to do?. 2 answers
In the section Construction and repair to the question, the drill began to sparkle hard! What to do? The best answer specified by the author Mikhail Senacolis, try to change this, if it does not help, then the anchor, and this is cheaper to buy a new drill.
Sparks, smoke, crunch and smell of Gary: what can break in a drill or electric screwdriver
Diagnosis of a drill in haste
To find out exactly why your drill broke or what is wrong with an electric screwdriver, you need to give the tool for diagnostics to the service center. But there are many direct and indirect features by which you can approximately find out in which knot there were problems.
- If the drill does not turn on at all (and does not even buzz), then the problems are almost one hundred percent lies in the electric part. over, a problem can be of any scale: from funny (clogging of contacts on the button) to large (burning of the engine or electronic control unit).
- If the power tool works somehow, with interruptions, and desperately sparkles, then the problem is most likely in the area of the anchor, collector or brushes. It is with the collector-target node that most malfunctions are associated, due to which drills and screwdrivers are not as good as they expect from them.
- If strange sounds appeared during work, which were not there before (squeak, crunch, howl), or strange vibrations and beating appeared, then the problem is probably related to the mechanical part. “Screech”, for example, can “crunch”. gears, and “knock”. a shaft or a cartridge.
- If the drill engine is buzzing, and the cartridge does not rotate, then the reason is certainly a breakdown of the gearbox or jamming of the shaft. A faulty gearbox and a jamming shaft can also cause a drill to twist the drill not as fast as we would like, but an electric screwdriver. rotates the bat with the effort that is supposed to.
- If the drill power has fallen for no apparent reason, then this may be due to increased losses: mechanical or electrical. In some cases, the cause of power falling can be clogged bearings that do not rotate as free as before. Sometimes a problem consists in burnt windings of the anchor, due to which the resistance in the circuit increases, and the engine becomes unable to develop its passport power.
- If the drill overheats, smokes or smells of a steam, then the problem can be any: mechanical, electric, clogging, wear or banal damage due to inaccurate operation. Often, the reason also lies in the fact that someone decided to “set the heat” and put on the instrument to the loads for which he simply was not designed.
So, we briefly figured out why the drill, electric screwdriver or peorator could work poorly. Then we will consider the typical causes of malfunctions in more detail and divide them into several categories: from easily eliminated problems to cases where the repair is inappropriate.
Not a breakdown at all
Some problems with drones and screwdrivers can not even be called malfunctions. Such annoying troubles include the wear of collector brushes. Graphite brushes are consumables (sometimes drills are sold immediately with a spare kit). They are more or less standardized, often interchangeable (running dimensions are suitable for the tool of different brands) and are literally a penny. Many drifts do not even need to open the body to replace brushes. This can be done without disassembling the power tool if the manufacturer for accessing inside has provided special windows covered with plugs. A powerful power tool, such as peorators, is even equipped with indicators that suggest that it is time to engage in the replacement of coal brushes.
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If the indicator is absent, then the brushes themselves will give the green to know that they have worn out. The most striking (in the literal and figurative sense) sign of wear are powerful sparks that are visible through the slots of the case and ventilation holes. An indirect feature is the work of the tool with interruptions and jerks. Sparking occurs due to the fact that the brushes are not fully pressed to the collector. Sparking is accompanied by heat release. In addition to the smoke and smell of burning, which accompany the spark, the danger lurks in the fact that due to overheating, collector plates can be deformed and disappeared from the base of the collector. That is, without changing the brush in time, you can easily “rest” the engine anchor.
|The process of replacing brushes on the example of an electrical screwdriver of Dewalt.|
The “visual effects” described above are almost never in drifts and screwdrivers with browned engines. They generally have many advantages over tools with traditional engines (though the price is considerable). If something lightly sparkles inside a bronnial electric screwdriver under load, then this is the engine brake (and this is quite a normal phenomenon, not a malfunction).
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Almost no breakdown
There are also problems that only look scary, but can be easily eliminated on their own with a screwdriver, sandpaper and a pair of strong words addressed to the manufacturer of the tool.
- If the drill simply does not turn on, start by checking the wire. Typically, the cable is ground near the fork or (which happens more often) at the entrance to the handle. The power wire can be easily and quickly changed to any other with the same cross.section. If the problem is not in the cable of power, then it is time to open the housing and check the internal wiring. It happens that the wires inside the drill are torn or soldered if the manufacturer does not pay due attention to the quality control of their products.
- Difficulties with the inclusion of a drill or electric screwdriver can be associated with clogging buttons and contacts. All switches are subject to this: the launch button, a revolution regulator and a reverse slider. If they stick or move tightly, then it is worth opening the tool and clean it well from dust, blowing up with compressed air. All contacts should be thoroughly wiped with alcohol and cleaned with a thin fine.grained skin. This is a rather troublesome job (after all, contacts and details of the buttons are so small).
- Sometimes a drill cartridge does not hold well, and the equipment dangles in it. It often happens that the gear crown has worn out, and it is impossible to tightly tighten the drill with a key. These problems are eliminated in one single way-replacing the cartridge.
- If from the new drill, when the first inclusion, it stinks, as from the exhaust pipe of the car, then this is not always a sign of a serious problem. This happens if there is too much lubrication in the gearbox or bearings. Squeezing through the gaps and falling on the heated parts of the tool, the excess solidol is burned and give a characteristic smell. The problem is solved by disassembly of the tool (with a loss of warranty) and removing excess lubricants.
Why the brushes sparkle in the electric motor?
Sparks, including on a good engine, appear due to the mechanical effect between the brushes and the collector. The brush, moving along the collector from one of its contact to another, alternately forms and breaks the connection with each of them. Now remember what happens if any working electrical appliance is pulled out of the outlet. usually at such a moment a spark slips between a fork and a socket. In the case of a brush engine, this is the same phenomenon.
Therefore, a slight sparking even on a good electric motor is permissible, since the connection and gap here constantly arise.
Reasons for strong sparking and ways to eliminate them
Now let’s move on to severe sincere. It arises mainly for the following reasons:
- pollution of the collector’s contacts by car
- Graphite dust getting between the collector’s contacts
- Interpreter closing in the anchor winding
1) Nagar pollution is obtained as a result of engine overheating. The presence of a carbon fence leads to even greater friction, which leads to even faster overheating and even greater formation of soot. Which very quickly leads to a breakdown.
Excessive sparking here is due to the fact that the cargo forms additional resistance, in which the spark is a larger and powerful gap.
In general, the carbon flesh should immediately be removed.
This is done with zero sandpaper. That is, it is necessary to extract the collector along with the anchor and carefully clean it. Ideally, it is desirable to clean up on a lathe in order not to violate the correctness of the circle. But, as a rule, there is no such possibility, so you can do with manual sweeping. The main thing is not to overdo it.
2) When working the drill, the brushes are erased, due to which graphite dust is formed. It can easily accumulate between the contacts of the collector and lead to the closure between them, since it is a conductor of electricity and has its resistance. Because of this, the current is distributed unevenly, which leads to the emergence of large sparks in some places.
In a working drill, washing is quite slow, so graphite dust almost does not accumulate. Consistently its accumulation signals that the brushes during operation occupy an incorrect position. This usually happens when they do not stand close in their groove, but, on the contrary, have some play.
Often this happens when the brushes are replaced when they are selected not quite suitable in size. Therefore, when replacing this moment, close attention should be paid.
Repair of such a malfunction is carried out by removing dust with any pointed tool and replacing brushes with more suitable in size.
3) in the event of an inter.seal circuit in the anchor, the current is made in greater value for some contacts and in a smaller one for others. Because of this, in some places, a current of greater value passes than necessary, as a result of which large sparks are formed.
The identification of such a short circuit should be done when the two previous points did not give a special effect. It is produced on a special device that creates an alternating magnetic field. When placing in this anchor field, he begins to rattles, since induced currents appear in it.
Some are made by such a device themselves from the power transformer, in the core of which the neckline is made, where the anchor is placed.
If the reason was in the inter.trustee, then you need to rewind the winding or completely replace the anchor.
These are the causes of excessive spark on the brush drill. Remember, if nothing is done with this, then most likely the engine will soon break. Therefore, do not be lazy and make the recommendations indicated in the article.
The drill sparkles on the brushes. what to do
The appearance of sparks in the process of operation of an electric drill is normal, but only when the process does not be of a violent nature. Large sparkles are indicated about the presence of a malfunction when they are pouring in the stream. By the way, note that the brushes of a newly acquired power tool can also spark it, since they have not yet gone through. It is enough to work with a tool for about 15 minutes so that everything calms down. But if after 20 minutes of work the drill continues to pour sparks, it is better to immediately return the goods to the seller, since this is a clear marriage of production.
Drill sparking can also begin after the end of the warranty period. In this case, do not rush to a repair shop. Let’s try to fix the defect yourself.
The brushes of the electric motor passing over the contacts of the collector, with a huge frequency, either closed or tear the electrical circuit. At these moments, the spark slips, and cannot be otherwise. In view of this, small sparks on the working electric motor are considered as the norm.
Now consider the reason for the appearance of severe sparking:
Between the contacts, an electrical conductive powder from erased brushes accumulated.
In the engine winding, an interval circuit occurred.
Consider each of these points in more detail.
The appearance of soot on the surface of the collector’s contacts occurs an avalanche.like. First, the engine overheats, forcing the contacts to burn. Friction intensifies, and this leads to an even stronger heating of the engine and burning copper. Sheaves of sparks with which the engine begins to pour due to increased resistance affecting the size of the spark during the rupture of the chain. Of course, the carfangle should be removed as soon as possible.
You can clean the contacts from the carbon on fine sandpaper. The collector needs to be dismantled and cleaned with zero “sandpaper” each of the burning contacts. Optimal if this operation is carried out on a lathe. In this case, the geometry of the circle will not be violated. But at home, almost no one has such an opportunity, so you need to show all caution, acting manually as an abrasive.
The brushes of the electric motor are curly pieces of graphite with excellent electrical conductivity. This material cannot boast of high strength, therefore, constantly experiencing a load, brushes emit the smallest powder, which spreads through all the cracks. If a large volume of conductive powder brings together in the cracks between the contacts, the closure is inevitable. This leads to the appearance of excessive sparks in some areas.
The elimination of this defect is carried out by cleaning contacts from clogging.
If some turns of the winding are closed to each other, a strong current will go to contacts, which is why larger sparks will appear. If the two previous ways to eliminate an excessive spark did not give a result, you need to look for a closure in the winding, for which a special device is used. If the closure is detected, craftsmen can rewind the winding. And in order not to contact this painstaking work, it is better to replace the anchor with a new.
If the drill engine burned, then how to fix it?
If the tool is out of order after work in heavy mode, then, most likely, the winding of the stator or rotor burned down. In most cases, it can be rewound, but there are models in which this cannot be done. If the drill worked with a large overload, then it can smoke: what can be done in this case? If the smell is strong, then the winding most likely burned down. If the insulation of the winding has only darkened, then the tool will work further, but it will not be able to withstand heavy loads.
Masters of the service centers equipped with diagnostic equipment will quickly and accurately determine the cause of the breakdown and eliminate it.
The drill sparkles on the brushes. what to do?
So, your drill sparkles on brushes and you do not know what to do in such a situation. This article will tell you why this is happening, whether it needs to be corrected, and if necessary, then how.
It is worth noting right away that the presence of this spark during work is a completely acceptable phenomenon. The truth is only if the sparks are small and there are not so many of them. If they are pouring directly, then this may indicate a malfunction.
Note that on a new serviceable power tool, brushes can also sparkle very much at first, since they need to get lost first. There is usually enough 10-15 minutes of work for the grinding. If after that everything remained as it was, then it is better to take the tool back to the store with a claim.
If your drill is already non.warranty, then you can try to fix everything yourself.
But first, we describe the causes of this phenomenon.
Why the brushes sparkle in the electric motor?
Sparks, including on a good engine, appear due to the mechanical effect between the brushes and the collector.
The brush, moving along the collector from one of its contact to another, alternately forms and breaks the connection with each of them.
Now remember what happens if any working electrical appliance is pulled out of the outlet. usually at such a moment a spark slips between a fork and a socket. In the case of a brush engine, this is the same phenomenon.
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Therefore, a slight sparking even on a good electric motor is permissible, since the connection and gap here constantly arise.
Repair button renovation
If the unit in question has stopped gaining speed, then you need to check the operability of the power button for turning on the electric motor, for this it is necessary to disassemble the drill housing using a special probe check the voltage on the input terminals of the device. You can fix this malfunction in the following ways:
It is worth noting that the speed adjustment button consists of many separate parts, so the disassembly should be carried out extremely carefully so as not to accidentally lose a certain element. Repair of the button consists in cleaning it from soot, but this method is not always effective.
When replacing it is worth buying only an identical button model, with the same parameters, otherwise, the device may not fit. You can order the repair of trimmers in St. Petersburg on the website of a special organization, where a fairly wide range of services.
Network drills belong to the category of tools with a collector.type engine. The brush-collection node works under a nonlinear load leading to sparks in the process of friction of the collector’s ribs on the brush. If they have not yet gone to each other, and it lasts during the first 15-20 minutes of the tool, then the effect of sparking in this node can be observed. But then, if everything is regular, it disappears.
If the sparking effect of a new drill does not disappear or it began to appear after a year of work, then with a high degree of probability a problem in brushes. Due to the fact that the collector’s cylinder is not smooth, but has ribs, brushes are gradually erased and require replacement. For this:
- Unscrew the screws holding the cover of the electric drill and remove it.
- Punch the clamps with brushes with a screwdriver and remove them.
- Replace the brushes in the clamps to the stop and set the clamps back into the drill.
- Check that the brushes are tightly adjacent to the edges of the collector.
- Put the lid of the body back and reliably tighten the screws.
There are several important rules for replacing brushes in electric drifts:
- Try to buy only original brushes from the manufacturer of your tool.
- Always replace two brushes at once, even if there are obvious signs of scuffs only in one.
There is also an important point that you need to do before you replace the brushes by the drill. You need to wipe the collector. Graphite brushes during friction are erased in very fine graphite dust and clogs of the collector furrows. Graphite is a very good flow of current and heat, so its layer leads to an increase in the load and overheating of the engine. And soot is even more polluted by the collector. Therefore, it must be thoroughly wiped with very fine.grained sandpaper or dense fabric. Wipe it not across, but along the ribs of the collector, trying not to damage the copper conductive coating.
How the drill button connects
As experience shows, a drill malfunction in 60% of cases is associated with the failure button. Often an attempt to replace this element leads to the fact that all the wires get confused, and the question arises. where to connect in order to connect everything correctly. It is in this that it is worthwhile to figure out that the wires connected at random do not lead to a short circuit.
It should be noted right away that the buttons on the droplets can have different design, however, three types of devices are distinguished:
- Ordinary without a regulator. when pressing the trigger, an electric motor is launched at full power. Typically, such buttons were used on old Soviet drills
- Button with a revolution regulator. there is a washer on the trigger, the movement of which helps to increase or decrease the resistance. The greater the resistance, the lower the speed of rotation of the cartridge
- Buttons with a revolutionary control regulator and a reverse. an additional device is equipped with a plate with a switching lever for the direction of rotation of the cartridge. Reverses are realized by changing the polarity of voltage supply to the rotor and stator winding
One of the most difficult connection schemes is the last option. However, if you understand, then there is nothing difficult in connecting all types of buttons. This will help to figure out below are the given circuits for connecting the buttons of different drills. Bosch, Interskol and others.
This scheme is also found in another performance, as shown in the photo below.
The difference between these schemes in connecting the wires from a reverse to the rotor and stature. Both options are correct and will work. It all depends on the tool model. Observing the sequence of connecting the drill buttons, it will not be difficult to restore the tools of the tool. Below is a diagram in the form of illustration of connecting the drill button to the AC collector engine.
It is worth noting that the drill button fails not only because of the blocking of the contacts, but also by means of wear of the folding spring. With a large production, a breakdown of the spring occurs, which ultimately leads to the jamming of the device.
How to identify a malfunction of the brush node
Brushes that are a consumable element come out of the system. The brushes are made of graphite, and with their help the current is transferred to the rotor through the collector node. In the process, the brushes abrupt, burn out, wear out and require replacement. The resource of the brushes depends on different factors:
Crack Stitching Kit from Helifix
You can identify a fault of brushes according to such a basis as excessive sparking. If, before the drill has ceased to be launched, its excessive sparking with signs of soot was observed, then with a high degree of probability it is necessary to replace coal brushes. To replace it, it is necessary to extract elements from the brush holders, pull out the worn.out parts and establish new.
In addition to a malfunction of the brushes, it is necessary to pay attention to the condition of the copper lamella of the collector. If there are signs of soot on a copper basis, as well as chips and other defects, then all this should be eliminated. If you cannot eliminate it yourself, then the anchor should be replaced. The causes of soot on copper plates are excessive sparking of the power tool. In addition, with a strong wear of the collector, a connection (closure) of the plates arises among themselves, which is also unacceptable.
Causes of malfunctions and methods for their elimination
Depending on what part of the drill has become unusable, repair interventions will depend. Consider the most common external signs of breakdowns.
It will indicate a breakdown when the brushes begin to spark, the drill does not develop full.fledged power, and also periodically problems arise with its inclusion, and begins to work only after the application of physical force. The tool must be diagnosed if the capacitor is revealed at the end, the external integrity of the anchor, and it also turns out that the resistance of the stator windings has the same resistance, then it is necessary to pay attention to the wear of the brushes.
Scheme of the internal device of the drill-electrical screwdriver.
In order to check this moment, it is necessary to squeeze the drill-parameter brush to the anchor using a screwdriver. In this case, it must be remembered that the handle of the tool should be a dielectric, otherwise there is a possibility of an electric shock. If, in contact, the drill begins to work at full power, then the whole problem is in brushes. In this case, they must be replaced with new. But sometimes such a replacement does not have the proper effect, so it is recommended to change the holders.
Experts recommend not waiting for the moment when such a part is worn out and sometimes do their preventive examination. The main sign of the need for replacement is increased sparking in ventilation slots located on the case. As soon as it begins to be observed, so you should immediately prepare new brushes.
If the peoporator does not work fully in the revolutions or again sparkle brushes, you need to clean. For this purpose, with the help of sandpaper “0”, the collector is cleaned in the direction in the direction where the anchor is spinning. Next, it is necessary to cut the dielectric gaskets that are located between the collector plates. This procedure is performed using a cutter, and if possible, it is best to do the whole procedure on a lathe.
You can apply another method. The anchor is clamped in the cartridge of the drill, and then at a small speed, pressing the sandpaper to the collector, turn on it.
The peorator may not work if not native brushes installed on the imported model. But in the case of strong sparks, there is a chance that the anchor has burned down, which is still indicated by a strong heating of the winding. Sparks can be provoked by interval circuit. If the drill has one of two brushes, then, most likely, the problem is the stature. He just burned out.
In order to make sure of this, it is necessary to measure the resistance indicators of the windings with a tester. He should show a mark of 4 ohma on both elements. In the case when the indicators vary, this will be a direct evidence of the stator malfunction. Then you need to rewind windings.
There may also be a problem in the food wires. If the drill-poorator is used quite intensively, then there is a chance that in some place they frayed. The drill may not work immediately from this. To determine the place of breakdown, it is necessary to “call” the wire up to the trigger itself. If even when diagnosing it turns out that they are working, then you should check the key itself.
Breakage can happen with the motor. In this case, you should pay attention to the anchor (which most often happens) or the stator. In models of expensive firms, a motor wire is used, which is covered with special heat.resistant varnish. While cheaper analogues do not devote proper concerns of isolation. Therefore, if such a peorator has been working for a long time without interruptions, then the engine does not have time to cool down and, in the end, burns out.
Practical recommendations and tips
The process of replacing the rotor or stator itself is as follows: the housing is dismantled, wires and brushes are disconnected, and if necessary, the drive gear is removed. After that, the entire motor is removed along with the supporting bearings. Next, the broken part is replaced and the assembly is carried out in the reverse order.
If the anchor is faulty, then the tool will have a characteristic smell.
He will spark, and the sparks themselves will fly in a circular focus. If there are no such signs, then its breakdown is determined using an ohmmeter and a megammeter.
Damage to the stator or anchor winding. Such a malfunction can be caused by three reasons:
If the tester measures is more than 500 MOM, then in this case the third option disappears. As for the first option, it is impossible to visually determine it. In this case, it is necessary to use the transformer with the primary winding and the rupture of the magnetic circuit in the form of a gutter designed for the installation of an anchor. As for the second type of malfunction, it turns out as a result of the fact that the turns are deformed (bent, crushed, and t.D.). Therefore, having eliminated such defects on the anchor chinks, the tool becomes again suitable for use.