with their own hands for a manual circular saw, how to make, homemade ruler

Everyone who at least once worked with a manual circular saw knows how difficult it is to make a clear and straight cut with it. Many solve this problem with the simplest devices, like a strip of plywood or plastic, which is attached to the surface with clamps. However, it is much more convenient to use a special guide rail for this purpose.

Such a device is very rarely included in the manual circular saw, and in stores is offered at a price that is often comparable to the cost of the saw itself. It seems strange, because it is not characterized by complexity of design. If you have the necessary materials, it is quite possible to make the guide bar yourself, which we will tell you about in this article.

CIRCULAR TABLE with your own hands. In detail, from A to Z

What is it?

The guide rail is essentially a rail that allows the hand circular saw to slide forward and backward while keeping the tool from deviating from the cutting line. But a properly designed guide not only ensures a straight cut, it also reduces the number of chips where the saw and material come into contact.

Homemade saw guides have different constructions and are made from different materials. For example:

  • guide made of plywood;
  • A rail-mounted jig is made from angles;
  • rail made of aluminum profile;
  • a ruler made of a construction rule;
  • An outrigger carriage on bearings.

The outrigger and the outrigger carriage are the most complicated to produce. A plywood guide rail or a profile rail is much simpler structurally, but this does not mean that the cut you make with them is of poorer quality. The difference between these varieties for the most part lies in the ease of use.

Made of plywood

This is one of the simplest universal variants of the guide for the manual circular saw, made by hands, and therefore it is most common in home workshops. Let’s see in detail how to make it and how it works.

Materials needed

To make such a busbar, you will need three 10 mm thick pieces of plywood. Their length should be the same and is usually equal to the length of the workbench on which the work will be performed. One of the pieces should be 25-35 cm wide (it will serve as the base), the width of the other two will be determined when making the bar. Also prepare 16 mm wood self-tapping screws.

Instructions for fabrication

When making the guide you need to be very precise about all the dimensions. Small deviations can lead to a drastic deterioration of the result. If desired, laminate can be used instead of plywood.

The plywood guide rail is made in several steps:

  • Measure the distance from the inside edge of the saw blade to the guide groove of the longitudinal cut, located on the support platform of the tool.
  • Cut one of the plywood strips so that its width is 0,2-0,5 mm less than the distance you got in step 2.1. The fibers of the top veneer layer on the plywood must run lengthwise.
  • Using self-tapping screws, screw the resulting strip to a wide piece of plywood (base), aligning their ends exactly. This will be the working edge of the guide bar.
  • Use a caliper to measure the width of the guide slot of the longitudinal cut.
  • Screw the remaining plywood strip to the base parallel to the first strip. There should be a gap between them, the size of which should be 0.2-0.5 mm less than the width of the groove measured in the previous point.
  • To prevent damage to the material you are sawing, glue a layer of soft cloth to the prepared guide on the underside.

Important: Always disconnect the circular saw’s sole from the powerpack before measuring!

Handmade guide is ready, now you need to prepare a hand saw. To do this, saw off a narrow strip of thick plywood or other sufficiently strong material. The height of this bar should be 8-9 mm greater than the depth of the guide slot on the saw sole. The width corresponds to the width of the groove. A few centimeters longer than the length of the sole.

The resulting limiting strip is clamped into the guide groove so that it projects over both edges of the worktop.

How to use the plywood rail?

To make the cut, you need two clamps and two flat wooden bars slightly thicker than the workpiece. The guide rail is placed by the ends on these bars so that its working edge slightly protrudes over the edge of the workbench top. Where the guide bar rests on the bars, it is clamped tightly to the workbench with clamps.

The workpiece to be cut with a cutting line marked in advance with a pencil is placed under the tire, and the cutting line for the trimmer is aligned with its working edge. Finally, the circular saw with the limiting strip fixed to it is placed on the guide bar so that the limiting strip on the sole exactly fits into the prepared gap. Now you can saw, holding the workpiece with your free hand and slightly pressing the saw toward the workbench.

Other types

If the plywood rail for some reason does not meet your requirements, you can make a guide of a more complex design. Below are a few more examples of hand circular saw guides that anyone can make with their own hands.

Rail made of aluminum profile

Such a rail differs from a simple plywood rail in that a U-shaped aluminum profile is installed in the guide gap. Its advantage is that the rigidity of aluminum slightly increases the accuracy of the cut.

For better sliding of the saw on the guide rail, instead of thick plywood, a pair of cylinders of suitable height made of fluoroplastic or other material with low friction coefficient can be attached to the guide slot of the sole as stoppers.

A ruler made of a building rule

There are long aluminum rules, which are used by finishers for aligning walls. To make a guide rail with your own hands are suitable rules, whose design provides a groove for free movement of the handles.

The main advantage of this fence is that there are no components protruding above the workbench surface. To do this you need to take two collapsible clamps and slightly modernize them.

What it is?

Essentially, a guide rail is a rail that allows the handheld circular saw to slide forward and backward, while keeping the tool from deviating from the cutting line. But a properly designed guide not only ensures a straight cut, it also reduces chipping where the saw and material come into contact.

Homemade guide rails have different designs and are made of different materials. For example:

  • plywood guide;
  • A railed jigsaw made of angle bars;
  • rail made of aluminum profile;
  • a ruler from a building rule;
  • The outrigger carriage on bearings.

The chair and the outrigger carriage are the most difficult to produce. Plywood guide or bar from the profile is much easier structurally, but this does not mean that the cut made with their help will not be of the same quality. The difference between these varieties is, for the most part, convenience of use.

Functions of guide rails

There are several basic functions that these designs perform:

  • Increased accuracy when sawing large materials;
  • Improved quality in creating a curved cut;
  • simplifying the creation of parts according to a certain standard;
  • The ability to produce several parts from a single template;
  • Increased safety when using circular saws.

Also with the help of guides it is possible to make cuts with high accuracy.

Ruler for circular saws with their own hands

The ruler for the circular saw with their own hands is a fixture, a related part or a steering wheel in a car. There are many proposals in the form of different stops, different shapes and sizes, different ways of fixing. In my opinion, when it comes to adjusting the guide bar on the circular table, the most important question is how to reduce the amount of time in the adjustments, and it is quite difficult to do.

What a parallel stop should be? It should be strong, have no more than three operations in the setting:

  • Easy to move the stop to the desired size;
  • one measurement of the distance of the stop to the saw blade;
  • single point clamping of the stop.

This fixture. has a body made of three strips of laminated chipboard, the length of the stop must be equal to the length of the circular table. The strips in the box are connected to each other with screws (countersunk). Why laminated particleboard? It is more resistant to warping and provides a good smooth, slippery surface, mobile in settings, easy to move. One of the main questions was how to lighten the way of fixing the stop on the circular table. Several different designs were considered, in the end I decided not to complicate the device and did just. The ruler is pressed against the table by a wooden block attached to the back of the parallel stop and a pressing mechanism at the front of the ruler.

It allows you to use the stop, like a large-sized clamp, on a circular saw table with your own hands.

Making a clamping mechanism at the front of the ruler is the most difficult part of this stop. Although initially it took a fair amount of time to make it, this method of attachment proved itself, in more detail it is shown in the photo at the beginning of the article, the details on the construction of the pressing mechanism see in the video at the end of the post.

In essence, the parallel stop acts as a clamp. Turning the clamping handle clamps the stop on the edges of the table and locks it in place. Observing the precision in the manufacture of parts ruler for a circular saw with their own hands, in the assembly, adjustment and work will not cause difficulties.

Ruler for circular saw with my own hands

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Anyone who has ever cut with a circular saw or electric jigsaw knows how difficult it is to make a straight cut without a guide rail. No matter how you try to guide the tool along the line, but it still deviates and as a result you get an uneven cut.

(Googling picture)

It is possible to saw straight using the old tried and tested method, attaching a rail or panel with clamps. But it’s not always convenient, especially with a handheld circular saw. The saw’s motor will be caught in the clamps.

Picture taken: http://al-pascom/70050.html

Power tool stores sell guide bars. Their cost from about 2000-10000 There are universal and are those that fit to specific tools or line of tools of a certain manufacturer. (like the guide rail in the first picture)

Since my next homemade device required a straight sawing (and apparently it will be needed quite often in the future), and I did not want to spend a lot of money, I came up with the idea to make a handy guide with my own hands.

Having walked around the Moskvorets market, looking for something suitable among aluminum profiles, it turned out that there was nothing suitable: Either angles, or swivels, or pipes, or tires, but none of these did not fit without substantial and costly rework.

Totally unexpectedly stumbled upon what I needed in a completely different place. At the tent where they were selling everything for repairing apartments, we found a clamp like this one.

A JYC-2000D-2 rule (a tool used for leveling walls). For only 400r

Handles move along the right side of the groove and can be fixed in any place. If you take them off, you can put clamps in their place.

In Leroy Merlin bought these handy clamps. Only for 98

Unlike the classical clamps, these are very easy to clamp the workpiece, quickly expand to the desired size. And another big plus of this clamp for my task was that it has a removable upper part. After removing it, you can attach it to the saw through the adapter.

Only ready-made adapters are not available, of course. And I made it out of a piece of polypropylene.

Although this design is not very suitable as a milling machine, but while my milling machine I have not finished yet, I had to mill on what was, attaching self-tapping screws coordinate table on the previously made drill stand.

Step by step, milling the part to the desired size and shape. Unfortunately at that moment I had a shorter cutter than needed. I had to grind in several steps.

(On the picture are the new bench vise, which I bought recently accidentally stopping at a flea market in Novopodrezkovo)

As a result of milling we got such adapters:

Fits perfectly

Drilled the necessary holes in the adapter, and fastened it to the screw clamps.

Finished product:

This is how the guide will hold on to the workpiece. And there are no unnecessary parts on top that interfere with the saw’s operation.

Materials and tools required

Before you start making the construction, you need to familiarize yourself with the list of tools and materials needed:

  • wooden blanks: boards, plywood, laminate;
  • Wooden bars with a thickness of 10 cm or more;
  • self-tapping screws, screws, bolts or nuts;
  • drill with drills;
  • Screwdrivers or an electric screwdriver.

Further information! The above-mentioned tools should be prepared in advance, so that they are at hand during the creation of the guide.

Advantages of homemade rails

An important advantage of working with such a device is the possibility of processing blanks of any size. You just need to remember to fix the guide bar firmly, because it provides a quality result and ensures safety.

You can purchase a prefabricated guide rail in a store. It is the easiest and most expensive option. After all, the cost of a branded device is often almost comparable to the price of the circular saw itself. Therefore, it is better to make a guide for a circular saw with your own hands.

Self-made guide rail for manual circular saw Interskol, Makita, Bosch is no worse in functionality than a factory-made one, but several times cheaper. It is easy to assemble at home. There are several options for making homemade tires, using different starting materials:

Below you will find a detailed description of how to produce a guide rail in each of these variants.

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Making at home

The main thing is to keep the geometry exactly right. The base can be:

A serious disadvantage of wood and pressed rails is their sensitivity to moisture.

Option 1. Tire made of laminate.

  • Using the ruler, cut two pieces of material of equal length.
  • Milling along one edge.
  • Fasten to the base (also made of laminate) with self-tapping screws.
  • Check the width of the groove with an A4 sheet of paper about 0.11mm thick: insert the paper into the device and screw it on.
  • The guide rail is secured to the circular saw’s underside by a side stop. A hole can be drilled in the housing if the warranty period has expired.
  • The tire is maximally extended in front of the hand circular saw. The nose of the sole should overlap the guide rail by a few centimeters. Using a laminate circular saw blade, we sawed off the edges of the runners to match the marking.

This will absorb the depth of cut (about 1.5 cm), but such a device is convenient and easy to make.

Variant 2. A construction rule is used as a base. The model with handles moving along the groove is suitable.

  • Handles are removed and gently spring-loaded clamps are used instead. Models with removable tops are also suitable. After removing the upper part, the clamping base is fixed to the rule with an adapter.
  • The adapters are made of polypropylene on a milling machine. The result should be parts that resemble the letter “T” in the cut. They are inserted tightly into the groove for the handles.
  • Holes are drilled in the “leg” of the adapters and screwed on with screws.
  • The rail is placed with the groove down on the sheet and clamped well from the bottom. No braking parts for the circular saw from above. Only the length of the rule is limited.

Variant 3. In order to get an accurate cut, you need to have a perfectly straight edge at the base of the tool next to the guide. Professional tools with moulded soles have this characteristic, but inexpensive moulded bases do not. Therefore, we offer a variant of the rail. The tool slides along it without bumping into the guide rail. At the same time the effort required to push the saw is considerably reduced. The rail can be made of aluminium U-profile. Two pieces of plywood with different cross sections are needed. The smaller profile is inserted into the larger one without any gap, but it must be able to move freely.

Now the guideway can be made by hand:

  • A larger diameter rail is screwed to the plywood. The heads of the screws and self-tapping screws should be chamfered so that they can be hidden flush.
  • On both sides of the guide, tightly attach strips of plywood 0 and also fasten with self-tapping screws. Plywood can be replaced by chipboard.

Superfluous pieces of width are sawed off and the rail is ready.

Prepare the hand saw:

  • A small profile is inserted into the rail and the height of the “legs” is removed so that the profile fits flush.
  • The cut profile parallel to the saw’s disc is secured to the sole plate. A pair of M 4 wing screws is used for this purpose. If the circular saw’s platform is flat and of good quality, its edge can be adhered to.
  • The hand saw is placed on the guide rail by inserting a profile into the guide rail. Turn on the tool and saw off the excess width of the strip.

For a perfect cut the guide rail is overlaid on the marking and the guide rail is clamped. The saw moves evenly with the guide rail, does not wobble, cuts accurately and feeds easily.

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