How to remove stamping from leather. How to emboss on leather: a simple guide to use
Back to the list of articles Handling and dressing animal skins is one of the most ancient crafts. But only after hundreds of years the masters began to brand their products. This is how embossing came into being.
Today the craft has reached an industrial scale. The patterns are embossed on special presses. Cliche (stamps with a cut out pattern, when pressing on which appears the pattern) are used for many years in a row. Jackets, diaries, bags, belts made of synthetic and natural leather are embossed.
Embossing at home takes a lot of time and is performed only on natural raw materials. It is more difficult to achieve evenness of drawing, the quality of work depends on the experience, knowledge and skills of the master. But with your hands you can make very complicated patterns and motives with small details, different textures. The work turns out to be exclusive.
It is possible to decorate with embossing oneself an agenda cover, a belt, a purse, a trinket.
Embossing on leather with your own hands
Needlewomen are no longer limited to making original crafts and leather goods. Sewing leather clothing, bags, accessories and even shoes is no longer something unique. However, such a technology of leather processing as stamping on it with their own hands and at home, is still available to few.
The fact is that before you do stamping on leather, you need to acquire special tools and learn the technology itself. And there are several such technologies:
The last method is used for hand embossing on leather at home. To decorate your purse, notebook, bag or belt with a beautiful three-dimensional pattern or inscription, you must buy a set of plates or make them yourself.
If you have already taken care of the tools, we offer simple master classes on stamping on leather, after reading which you will learn how to do it yourself.
- stamping tools;
- Use the hammer;
- a stylus;
- Cut out a piece of leather that you want. Use sharp and heavy scissors to make the cut even. If you want to transfer a specific pattern onto the leather, print it out on paper.
- Decide to embellish the piece with a feathering? Then it’s time to do it. With a special hole puncher you can easily make the necessary holes. Next, you need to soften the leather, treating it with a sponge moistened with warm water. It will take at least half an hour.
- You can start embossing, but first prepare the work surface. We recommend placing a board of wood under the workpiece to avoid damaging the worktop or floor. With the die set perpendicular to the leather surface, start embossing by hitting the tool with a hammer. Soft leather succumbs with one stroke, hard leather with several strokes.
- If you need to make smooth lines, use a stylus. When the pattern is ready, wipe the leather with water and let dry. Done!
To make an embossed design with lettering, start by softening the leather with water. Then draw the pattern you have chosen with the stylus, pressing it lightly on the leather. That way you will have a barely perceptible imprint on the piece. Now begin to cut out the pattern, using a special scalpel for skin treatment. Be careful to ensure that the cuts on both sides are identical.
After that, use stamps with different sizes of heads to process the cut out lines to give them three-dimensional volume. Be sure to control the force of the hammer blow on the tool! The tools in our leather embossing kits help you create the finest nuances in relief.
After the volume is created, use a rotary knife to remove all imperfections and smooth out the rough edges. Now you can begin to paint. Use a special paint for leather goods for this purpose. Apply it with a thin even layer and wait for it to dry completely.
It remains to polish the surface of your product with a soft cloth and enjoy the results of laborious work!
Call this kind of needlework easy, of course, but beautiful three-dimensional images can do wonders with the most ordinary things of everyday life. Having mastered the subtleties of hand embossing, you can not only decorate your own leather items, but also create original gifts for loved ones.
To perform the braiding, it is better to use a revolver-type hole punch, it can also be made by yourself. In appearance, it is very similar to the rings for working with metal, but only on his head will need to place a drum that has 6 sharpened cones of different sizes, from 1.4 to 5 millimeters. In order to make a hole, the leather workpiece will need to be inserted between the anvil and the punch, and compressed with force. That way you get the hole of the desired diameter.
These sturdy devices can be made of stainless steel with a brass anvil and compression spring, replaceable steel punches that have a lifetime warranty. It is important only to take into account the recommendations regarding the thickness of leather products.
How the technology of stamping on leather came into being and what it is
Although one of the most ancient crafts is the processing and dressing of animal skins, it took thousands of years before embossing technology and the term “stamping” appeared in common use after people learned how to make hides and use them in everyday life.
The oldest surviving evidence of embossing technology is fossil pottery, on which the potters stamped their mark with stamps. Much of this ware appeared around 4,500 B.C. э. In some regions of the earth have been found fragments of the simplest crockery made of clay, which scientists have dated back to 10 000 years B.C. э.
Embossing technology developed and soon became very widespread. For example, for printing different ornaments on fabric. A specialist cut out a pattern on a wooden leather embossing block, dyed it and transferred the image to the cloth under pressure. In the late Middle Ages this method of transferring a picture on paper with a block on which a coloring agent is put, together with the development of the skill of metalwork led to the production of engravings, that is the beginning of the mass book printing.
Before we move on to stamping on leather, let us try to define as clearly as possible what this technology is. So stamping is a process of partial or complete processing of natural leather by means of pressure applied with or without the use of different tools.
Embossing on leather can be manual, in which case it is applied to the material with the help of various clichés, impressions and stamps. In addition, stamping can be carried out on the industrial production to give a half-face and corrected the texture of the skin or imitate the texture of the skin of an exotic animal. Leather embossing at home or in small workshops allows to put any relief logos, pictures, inscriptions and patterns on the material.
Stamps and clichés for stamping on leather are sold in specialized stores. Besides, they can be made by oneself or ordered from experienced craftsmen. This gives the master unlimited freedom of creativity and provides a huge number of options for the unique design of products.
Embossing on leather by your own hands is a laborious, painstaking and responsible process. To practice this skill and get a quality result, have patience, a good tool and leather that is designed specifically for embossing and suitable for this technological operation.
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Tanner’s set 37 items, “Not just Leather” part 1
Repeatedly bought a purse from inexpensive materials, but for a short time they all fell into disrepair I wanted to sew for myself a good and the right size/fashion purse made of leather, but to work with it you need a special tool. Ordered this set from the store for review. As a starter quite good, but to buy some tools later will have. And I can say with certainty that I got a new hobby. leather goods, where a lot of nuances, important little things and moments, worth to understand and master, for a long winter evenings is great. Delivery is standard, a month. Packaging. bag, inside the box, pretty much full and heavy. Everything in the kit. The wooden handles of the tool are made of beech. Distributed by function: Marking of the material. Line markers/copiers, 3mm pitch, 2mm pitch, 1.5.mm. Ditch cutters / socket cutters, angle, shaped. u, U, V, P (6mm). Good sharpening. Examples of cuts on 3mm cattle skin: angled U-shaped u-shaped V shaped U-shaped, 6mm Splint, Parallel marker/creaser, Circular slicker/slicker/griver: Plain and polished, penetrates well into the material, the cutter is adjustable within the range 0. 15mm, the plates on the working edge are tapered but not sharp, an example of marking with it: The cutter has an adjustable cutter, with a radius of 5. 30mm, designed to cut a semicircular groove in the leather for subsequent stitching of leather on this groove, an example of a cut: Edge trimming. Round slicker disc for dremel, cylindrical slicker, flat slicker, polishing wax 25g.. “Slicker”. tool for smoothing leather cuts. Grooves on the slicker are designed for processing leather of different thickness. sewing part. Brown and black waxed thread, 50m each. A set of needles. Stitches with black thread. Material cutting, embossing Planer spare blades, scalpel spare blades, embossing tool, straight saddler knife, circular knife 45mm. Sharpening and metal cutting tools are excellent, leather can cut noodles with a circular knife, cattle leather 3mm cut at a time. Multifaceted rotary punch (1).5/2/2.5/3/3.5 mm) Tested on a belt with a thickness of 4 mm, a hole of 3.5 mm and others. make with one stroke of the palm. Planer. Thins the edge in thin strips. Abrasive plates, double sided. different grains. For the first test, I bought two pieces of Crazy Horse leather (sheep 0.5mm and CPC 3mm) at the nearest to me “Leather Shop” g.Krasnoyarsk, a very large selection of all things leather and knowledgeable staff. Of sheepskin decided to try sewing a case for the phone (in 6.44″), since the old one is pretty worn out, but it will do for a pattern. Let’s make a mark on the wrong side. I will say right away that the experiments and mistakes took almost the entire piece of leather. The circular knife is very sharp and the cut should be made only in one side of the line at a time, if you spend a little back and forth there is a chance to spoil the neighboring closely spaced piece, which I did. Glue the “sandwich” of leather-plastic-leather. Glue for leather “Krazy Horse” to use only water-based, at the worst PVA, other glues soak the skin and destroy the special coating on the front side. Stitch around the perimeter of the workpiece (first time, by hand, please do not judge), glue “bumper-holder”. Scalpel punch holes (need to buy a shaped puncher) Done. As a result, I can say that the reviewed set is very useful, the case is of average quality (0 leather).5mm is too thin, you need 1mm, the plastic insert to insert the full width or very close to the trim). There’s still a lot to learn. I am waiting for the patterns for making a purse, of this kind: There is also a pattern for a briefcase, but I will start with it when everything will be fine. Thanks for your attention, there are a few more reviews on other leather tools ahead.
This product was submitted for writing this review by the store. This review is published in accordance with p.18 Site Rules.
What surface to cut leather on?
The surface for cutting leather must be non-slippery, otherwise the leather, without additional grip on the surface, will move when cutting, and the knife will slip. Also, the surface must not be loose, or the knife will go very deep into it and get stuck. The leather cutting surface should not be fibrous, as the knife will deviate from the proper line and go over the fiber.
Plastic, such as kitchen boards or A4 or A2 size plasticine boards, plexiglass, linoleum, the smooth side of organolith. Personally, I use sculpting boards.
Engraving on leatherette
We do not recommend doing a deep engraving leatherette, because the upper layers will fray, crumble, come off and the product will quickly fall into disrepair.
Let’s take two identical covers of different colors.
We did a deep engraving on the black one and you can already see that these triangles will start to come off soon.
And on the brown case, we set the power lower and got a noticeably better result. So when processing leatherette, it’s best to start with low power, although color may have played a role here too, because black absorbs more heat.
Embossing of the leather parts
Hello. This is Cheglock again. Today I’ll tell you how to make an embossed detail (a buckle for a shoulder pad). We will need:.vegetable tanned leather.Different shaped chasers, or just a screwdriver.acrylic paint.brush.
First of all, draw a template for your piece
Draw a pattern on a sheet of leather, cut with a margin.
You can use a pen here, everything will still be painted with acrylic paints. If you want the product to be the color of your skin at the end. do not use non-erasable drawing tools. Then we put our pattern on the leather and with effort stroke out the back side of the paper. The pencil will imprint on the leather. To make the pattern better use heavy paper, a soft pencil and carefully trace the whole surface.
You can actually see the drawing. Now flip the template with the shaded side down on the other half. With pressure, trace all lines of the pattern.
That’s even better. Draw the lines with a pencil or pen. Now carefully cut out the piece on the outline.
Put the piece under water until it softens (in my case 30 seconds). Now the leather is darkened and easy to bend in all directions.
Armed with our chasers, we stamp out the pattern, starting with the largest details. I acted here with a clock screwdriver. If the leather isn’t squeezing properly, try wetting it again. It is convenient to use a brush, dip into a nearby can and moisten the desired area. The leather also dries in the process. If the leather is too wet, the lines of the pattern will blur. Just wait for it to dry. You can wipe it with a dry cloth, you can put it on a radiator.
Tools. flat blade screwdriver, screwdriver, sharpened nail.
I pressed the pattern over the whole surface, and slightly convex the center. the leather bends just like plasticine. Dried. Here’s a comparison of what was and what was.
Then prime the piece with white acrylic. One coat is basically enough. To compare, just a finished wet part and a primed one
I painted the whole piece with silver acrylic on top of the white acrylic. I painted all the indentations with black. Use small brushes!
After the previous layers have dried, another coat of silver is applied. The paint is diluted with water and applied thinly and gently, so that the previous one shines through. The darkened recesses look more embossed. Here’s the result. I’ll show you later how it looks on the finished shoulder pad.
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