How to shorten the chain of a chainsaw with your own hands: sequence of actions, nuances of the process and video-instruction
The chain on any chainsaw stretches over time, this applies not only to budget models, but also to well-known brands such as “STIHL”. The following causes contribute to this process:
- Improper adjustment of the oil pump. Leads to improper oil supply, increasing the heating of the metal during sawing.
- Felling wood and construction in adverse, extreme conditions. Particles of dust, dirt or sand get on the headset links and act as an abrasive material. Gradual rubbing of joints.
- Use of used or low-quality oil with m metal particles.
- Installing a new chainset without adjusting the adjusting screws after each use.
- A loss of natural tension after long, hard work.
Chain stretching is a normal process for saw headsets. It can be controlled by the manufacturer’s recommended oil, adherence to the tool’s operating rules. If the tension is not attended to, it can lead to tool breakage, loss of productivity, and dangerous injuries at work.
Important! The oil should be chosen according to the specifications of your saw model. The manual always tells you what mix you should use.
How to look after your chainsaw chain
The chainsaw’s productivity depends on a number of factors:
If the degree of tensioning affects the performance of the chainsaw, the sharpness of its teeth affects the rate of cutting
That’s why it’s essential to pay more attention to the sharpening process. When the teeth are properly sharpened, cutting is much more efficient, precise and safe
There are no specific rules on how often you sharpen your saw regularly, but professional sawyers recommend sharpening several times a day. This is caused by the teeth dulling quite quickly as they are cut intensively.
Most often the dullness of a chain is based on the performance of the chainsaw. The tool also needs sharpening when the bar starts to drift to the side. Another measure of bluntness is the condition of the chips. As a rule, properly sharpened tines produce very uniform chips. The sawdust is square or rectangular in shape. If the chain is blunt, dust dominates in the chips, and the shape of the sawdust resembles the needles of a simple hacksaw.
If you regularly check the tension in the chain and have it sharpened in time, your chainsaw will last a long time. Even very hard wood is no problem when sawing.
If you are not experienced enough, it is advisable to call in a specialist. Professional woodturners determine the condition of a chainsaw and its components the first time they inspect it. They determine how worn it is, if the chain is too tight, and how sharp the teeth are.
How to install a bar and chain on a chainsaw?
Often a chainsaw goes awry when the guide bar is installed incorrectly. This can be found in the corresponding rattle, vibration and low productivity of the saw in operating time
The attachment of the bar to the body is between the outer plate, the fixation is made by a special bolt.
Popularly referred to as the “engine assembly,” this part consists of the drive sprocket and locking bolts. It is not difficult to install the bar together with the saw. it is necessary to remove all protective covers, unscrew the locking bolts to a third of the length and put the headset. Then tighten all the nuts and turn the tensioner with the special lever.
Can be shortened
Chain breaks on your saw, it’s not unusual and you don’t have to feel bad about it. manufacturers have made sure that the chain can be repaired and shortened. There are spare links for chains of different kinds and sizes, rivets for chains, riveting and riveting machines on sale.
With the help of machines rivet chain chainsaw at home can be even those who have never done anything like this.
Important: Repairing a chain, even if good, does not guarantee that it will last forever. The links wear evenly, so the chain can break elsewhere at any time.
Chains are available in coils of 50-100 meters which you can buy and rivet yourself.
Coils are for the benefit of professionals who use a chainsaw every day, such as foresters and sawyers.
Chains for chain saws. lubrication, sharpening, tensioning, types, shortening
The chain is an important attribute of any gasoline or electric chainsaw. The efficiency of the tool, as well as the amount of fuel it consumes, depends on the serviceability and condition of this part. It’s often hard for a beginner to know which chainsaw chain is best. In this case, you need to know the basic characteristics of the chain, as well as how to install and maintain it.
What chainsaws are best for a chainsaw??
The market today is crowded with many kinds of saw elements. They are divided by their characteristics and are divided into several categories.
According to the type of sawing direction we distinguish such types of parts:
- Cross bars. this type of chainsaw has the effect of smoothing vibrations and reducing the load on the tool’s engine. This makes the saw easier and more comfortable to use;
- longitudinal. parts of this type are distinguished by high performance.
Another important characteristic is the pitch of the chainsaw chain.
According to this factor, the sawing headsets are divided into such types:
- 0.25 or 1/4″. these parts are used in one-hand utility saws;
- 0,325 or 3/8″. elements with such pitch most often are completed with semi-professional tools;
- 0,404 or 3/4″. these types of parts are suitable for use in concrete or aerated concrete.
As a rule, the pitch has a direct impact on the performance of the harness.
The third characteristic is the thickness of the shanks. To install the element, it is necessary that this parameter coincides with the dimensions of the grooves in the bar of the tool. This way, the headset will be firmly fixed on the bar and the risk of accidental slippage will be minimized.
The following types of parts are on sale:
- chains with shank thickness of 1.1 mm. these types of chains are used to equip semi-professional chainsaws;. chains with shank thickness of 1.1 mm. these types of chains are used to equip domestic tools;
- elements, the thickness of the shanks of which is equal to 1.3 mm. this type of headset is used to equip semi-professional chainsaws;
- products with shank thickness of 1.5 mm. used for regular equipment of small but powerful household tools;
- parts with shank thickness of 1.6 to 2 mm. this set is installed only on powerful industrial saws.
Many experts also divide the tools according to whether they can be mounted on self-sharpening chain saws. Based on this property, you may also find on the market a self-sharpening set or a chain that needs to be sharpened manually.
How to choose a chain for your chainsaw?
To choose a chain for a chainsaw a beginner will help to study several important factors.
- the headset material. the most reliable products will be those that use high-alloy steel, made with nickel and chromium. To be able to cut very hard types of wood, it is best to choose a set with Pobedite tips. It is important to take into account that pobedite chain for chainsaw is heavy, so it should be installed only on the tool with high power. The marking on the cutting teeth will tell you about the material of which the part is made;
- Number of links. the efficiency of the product depends on this parameter. To determine the number of elements, you need to count the teeth of the saw headset;
- cutting depth. this parameter depends on the height of the chain tooth profile. Today, customers can choose from two options. parts with a tooth height of 0.635 mm or parts with a tooth height of 0.762 mm. Products of the first type are used to complete domestic saws. Elements of the second type are installed on powerful semi-professional and industrial tools;
- chain length. depends directly on the size of the saw being used. Suitable dimensions of the chainsaw, as a rule, are indicated in the instruction manual of the tool;
- cutting direction. the user has to decide in advance whether he is going to cut wood lengthwise or crosswise. In each of these cases different types of headsets are used.
In case the buyer is not able to determine chain pitch or other important parameters, it is possible to use the available chain selection table for popular chainsaws.
How to tension the chain on a chainsaw correctly?
Chain tensioning on a chainsaw can be done in two ways.
- the traditional method of tensioning with a tool. in order to tension a chain on a chainsaw, you need a standard wrench that almost always comes with the chainsaw. The first side of the wrench is the working side that is used to unscrew the nuts. The other side of the wrench is a slotted screwdriver. In order to put the chain on the chain saw correctly, you must first loosen the nuts, which are located on the cover that covers the place of fixation of the original bar. The main thing is not to rush, and slowly tighten the headset, checking it regularly with your hands. To do this, use one hand to gently pull the part at the bottom of the factory bar. After the adjustment you need to tighten the nuts on the cover;
- tensioning without tools. with this method, it is easier and faster to fit the chain on the chain saw. For this, there’s a factory tensioner on the side of the saw. By turning it the operator can control the position of the headset on the bar.
Once you have finished setting up the chain on your chainsaw, you need to check it. With optimum tensioning, the headset will not sag at the bottom. If you pull the chain away from the bar, the inner teeth of the part should protrude about 5 mm out of the groove of the standard bar.
It’s important to figure out which way to put the chain on the chainsaw. To this end, it will certainly be necessary to study the instructions in the instruction manual of the tool.
How to shorten chainsaw chain with your own hands?
Many beginners don’t always know what to do if the chain on their chainsaw is stretched. The problem can be solved by shortening the headset by one or more links.
The following tools will be needed to unbolt the chain:
- An angle grinder and a diamond grinder in the shape of a circle;
- thin bureau.
How to make the right rivets with an electric drill?
Don’t be afraid: you will not have to buy a machine tool. Use an ordinary drill. The entire process of manufacturing rivets with an electric drill and an ordinary file is described as follows. From a nail, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the inside of the rivets (check with a caliper), cut a blank. a piece of length of about 7 cm. This workpiece is fixed in the head of the electric drill. The drill has to be properly secured too.
On a wooden bar is fixed two notches, the distance between which will be equal to the width of the inside of the rivet. It may not be fast, but you have to be absolutely precise. It only remains to organize a uniform feed of the bar on the workpiece. How to shorten the chain of a chainsaw with their own hands. We recommend to use a piece of board, one end of which we fasten to the stationary part of the workbench with a wide door hinge, and on the second end of the board we fasten the bar with scrapers.
Check the perpendicularity of the jigsaws and the workpiece and you are ready to go. Turn on the electric drill and smoothly lower the file. They will make grooves on the workpiece. It is not recommended to make rivets in one step, as it is not necessary to overheat the metal, but it is necessary to control the thickness of the workpiece on the machined part. A rivet that is too thin can also damage you, so you need to be as accurate as possible. If you were able to do it right, all that remains is to cut the rivet off and use it to join the chain links.
It is better to cut the rivet by hand, without using an angle grinder. Don’t forget that cutting metal at high tool speeds will cause a significant increase in material temperature, which is very undesirable. The finished rivet is every bit as good as the factory product, so the rebuilt chain will last a long time. The negative moments when using homemade rivets will be virtually eliminated. The main thing is that when installing the rivets, you do not forget to align the sides of the links (you had to bend them when separating the chain). Even a slight protrusion of these elements from the design norm will lead to premature wear of the drive sprocket.
It is advisable to make several rivets at once using the method described above. How to rivet a chain on a motorcycle and instructions
It’s not just a matter of stocking up on such essential items for the future (although that’s important, too). It is more important to choose the right size from the number of products: any deviation from the norm will make the chain vulnerable under high loads
The use of reclaimed chains is not recommended when working with dense woods.
How to remove rivets?
The chainsaw chain is difficult to unbolt. The rivets are made of quality steel and are geometrically shaped so that the rivets cannot simply be knocked out of the link. The inside of the rivet has a larger radius. The inner part of the rivet has a larger radius, on which the chain link rotates, while the outer part of the rivet has only a connecting function; it is therefore quite simple to attach it to the outer side of the chain reliably. A rivet can be removed by clamping the chain in a vice and grinding away the protruding part. When grinding, be careful not to damage the sides of the links.
Using an angle grinder is not recommended because the parts will heat up very quickly, which will change the physical properties of the metal. It is better to use a file or file for grinding. Grinding is carried out on both sides of the link. And now the rivets can be knocked out of the chain with a bead by bending the sides of the links slightly.
The chain can be disconnected. Do not rush to throw away a rivet that you have removed from the chain. You may not be able to find a suitable replacement. But chainsaw manufacturers don’t want you to rebuild the chain yourself, so they don’t put rivets like these on the market.
It is also more profitable for merchants to sell finished chains than small parts for repair. For the reasons mentioned above it is difficult to find a rivet with the right geometry. It’s even harder to make at home, so you have to use an old rivet.
As you may have guessed, the chainsaw chain has to be uncoupled twice. Don’t forget to count the number and spacing of guide lugs on the inside of the chain to match the drive sprocket on the chain saw. If you shorten the original chain, this is not necessary. And if it’s a chain from another chain saw model, you need to measure and size that very carefully. A deviation in the chain pitch (even a small one) from the design parameters will cause the chain to stretch again in the shortest time (at best) or to break the chain sprocket. The tire will end, too, because the sprocket will overheat quickly.
Good evening.Puzzled by the question of how to properly shorten the chain? Does that make sense?? There won’t be more wear and tear as you use a stretched chain on the drive sprocket and bar? Thanks in advance to all.
Take it to a service shop and shorten it. There are specialists and appropriate equipment. If you get one link removed so that the chain can still fit on the tire, there won’t be any increased wear. If the chain is stretched, your sprocket is loose. How many chains do you have?
I won’t take it to service. It’s easier to buy a new one. You can’t do it at home? You’ll get 50-60% mileage on a stretched chain, and 5 chains from the Stihl. For the soul would be nice to restore itself, but how?
krot. I wouldn’t take it to a service, it’s easier to buy a new one. Is it impossible to do it at home??
It is realistic, I guess. But is it worth the trouble?? I mean, is such a pain worth the result?? “Shorten chain at a service center for mere pennies.
Your chain has a 50-60% service life, but you’ll get 5 Stihl chains by the amount. It would be nice to restore it for your soul, but how do you do it??
I think you have something going on with your tire lubrication if you have a tooth life of 50 to 60 percent and the chain is already stretched to the limit.
I don’t see the point. By the way, I used to shorten the Druzhba, but the RPMs there were not the same as in modern saws. I wouldn’t.
newzubok wrote : Take it to a service shop and have it shortened. There are technicians there, and the proper equipment. If you get one link thrown out so the chain can still fit on the tire, there will be no increased wear. If the chain is stretched, your sprocket is already sprocketed.
Valerich wrote : Exactly what won’t go on the sprocket.
Why on earth? The pitch of the chain will not change by one tooth, and the chain is already stretched and running in this sprocket. It’s worth it if you have three alternating chains running and one chain is running too long for some reason. I had that once when something got clogged in the tire lubrication system. Flushed it with gasoline and diesel, restored the lubrication and had one sprocket thrown out at the service. Then I cleaned all 3 chains to zero, changed them and replaced the sprocket, as usual.
krot. wrote : In the service will not take unequivocally, it is easier to buy a new and not bother. You can’t do it at home? The stretched one will have a tooth life of 50-60%, and by the number of 5 chains from the Stihl. It will be a pleasure to restore it for your soul, but how do you do it??
newzubok wrote: I had one link removed at the service.
You’re not confused? I’ve been with chainsaws since 1982. Give me a chance to get it right?
Read also: What files are made of
Did not wait. It’s past my bedtime. I have to be at work tomorrow at 9:00. In general, you can’t throw away one link. It just can’t be riveted. The Druzhba chains came with spare links, and I riveted them myself. That’s why I know. We give modern ones to service, that’s why we don’t know so much. But the principle is the same. Good night!
It’s easy to shorten the chain. Sale connectors with rivets for 3 hryvnia apiece for all chains besides branded, Stilevsky and fit and Oregon, the main thing. the same step (we have in Nadvornaya such a price, maybe where else). On the chain neatly sawed off the rivet head with an angle grinder, the tooth was kicked in and the chain is riveted in place. I do this a lot. It takes about five minutes.
Valerich wrote: You are not confused? I’ve been with chainsaws since 1982. Give you a chance to get it right?
I’m not confused. I just thought I was talking to technically proficient people who know what “one link” means. Exactly the same as bike chain and motorcycle chain.
It’s not a question of money, it’s a question of time. And I like to do it myself. And the chain is stretched because of the lack of oil, my friends did their best (last time with this saw)
By the way, dumb chains stretch pretty good too. You can’t cut with an elongated chain. Sprockets wear out fast, then when you put a new chain on the old sprockets, that’s not good either. If the sprockets are not worn, it is better to buy another chain, I understand that the greed presses, but better the chain than the tire with a sprocket.
Dimon 35 wrote : By the way, dumb chains are good for stretching too. In general, to saw with stretched chains. Sprockets wear out fast, then when you put a new chain on the old sprocket, it’s not good either. If the sprocket is not worn, it is better to buy another chain, I understand that the greed presses, but better the chain than then tire with a sprocket.
Dim, and the tire, why the hell? About the sprocket. I agree. I also agree that if the sprocket is almost new. I agree with you about the sprocket. (Damn, why would it be almost new.). The tooth life is 50%, if the three chains have been working evenly on the sprocket alternately, the sprocket is already worn enough). I had a similar situation, I shortened the chain and finished all three chains on the old sprocket, then bought new three chains and a new sprocket.
How do you think a worn sprocket should look like?? I will compare it to mine.
krot. wrote : How do you think a star should look like?? I will compare it with mine.
The bar also has a sprocket on it, and it works the same way as the one on the saw. And as for when to change. When a chain cannot be tensioned during work with a saw. sometimes it is too tight, sometimes it slackens, or when a defect on a driving sprocket is more than 0,5 mm.
krot. I wrote: What do you think a star should look like when it is worn out?? I will compare it to mine.
She has these grooves on her rays. It’s not even a question of their depth. Sometimes you get a couple of them on the beam. It’s just a practice to buy 3 chains that are used alternately on the sprocket, in a circle. When the chain is worn to zero, change the chain and sprocket. If you put a new chain on a worn sprocket, the teeth that the sprocket pulls will wear out quickly while the saw teeth stay almost intact. That’s why it’s not recommended to buy one new chain to replace an old chain that’s stretched for some reason (lack of lubrication, like yours). Then it’s better to finish the other two, if the third one can’t be shortened. And then change the chain and the sprocket. As far as I understand, you have five chains? Work three of them until they are all worn out. Then change chains and sprocket. When you’ve worn down the three new ones to the size of the fourth one you’ve got left in reserve, start it up and work the four in a circle. And so again until they are completely worn out. And then you change the chain and sprocket again. And in the meantime, you might even shorten the fifth chain. And then follow the same pattern. Personally, I would do the following.