Which way to unscrew the screws

Electric screwdriver. An indispensable tool in the household. But not everybody knows how to use it. And the multitude of different settings can be confusing for new users. This article will help you get over your drill phobia.

There is a button that goes through the drill, looking out to the right and left. This is the switch for the direction of the drill. Clockwise, we drill or screw in screws and screws. Counterclockwise. To help the drill out of the hole or to remove the screws. When the switch is in the middle, the drill is blocked. So if the battery is charged and the drill doesn’t work, make sure the switch is moved to the left or right.

which, drill, wheel, bolts, nuts

Features

To begin with, it should be said that most cars have motors in the same position, thanks to which, they twist correctly. And, the order of work will be common. In order that the pulley of the generator does not turn, many recommend the use of improvised metal tools, which are inserted into the hole of the pulley and the oil pump.

But, it may also happen that the said pump has such an arrangement in which it may have certain parts damaged in the process of disassembling the pulley.

In addition, it is made of aluminum and has very small dimensions, but the effort in the work should make significant. So, you need to be very careful not to break the pulley.

In what direction to unscrew the chuck of the drill

How to remove the chuck from the drill, how to unscrew or disassemble it

It’s hard to imagine a home without a power drill. This is a favorite tool of virtually every man.

Usually, the user does not worry about the drill, works itself a tool, and let it work. But now the drill bit has become very jammed or its clamping mechanism has jammed, repairs loom on the horizon.

It became necessary to remove or even disassemble the cartridge. Here, some inexperienced craftsmen and will need advice on how to do the right job, without ruining the drill completely and completely.

First it is worth getting acquainted with information about the types of cartridges and how to attach them to the drill.

Features of repair of pedals

The presence of obstacles with twisting associated with mechanical stress due to the impact of external causes. To avoid such difficulties, you must:

  • Treat the pedals with a kerosene product, otherwise known as a solvent. This procedure is necessary to remove dirt, which is an obstacle when rotating.
  • Warm up the connecting rod and axle. The service can not help either, why torment the brain! Drill bit, one side of the nut. Because of the small damage, the thread is easier to release, not the axle is removed.

It is necessary to install the axis carefully, because this will allow you to prevent damage to the thread. Otherwise it would be difficult to dismantle.

Replacement in an Interskol drill

The Interskol drill is very comfortable and has an ergonomic handle. Low cost is also a frequent reason why it is chosen by customers.

Replacing the chuck on an Interskol drill is not particularly difficult:

  • The setscrew is unscrewed. A powerful Phillips screwdriver comes in handy for this. Before unscrewing it is better to put some kerosene or WD-40 lubricant under the screw. This method is effective because both of these substances have a high penetrating ability and can dissolve dried grease or rust. Keep in mind that it is easy to destroy the screw slot, as well as break its head. And if it still came out, you will have to drill out a screw or other drill, or do it in the workshop criteria, using a drill or lathe. Drilling out the screw, you must try not to destroy the thread.
  • An L-type hexagon socket wrench size 10 mm and larger is clamped in the chuck with the non-long side.
  • A sharp blow on the longish part of the wrench should “tear” stuck threads in place. Turn in clockwise direction. The next unscrewing is done by hand.

Do not hit the chuck itself with a hammer: not only could it be broken, but it could also deform the spindle. This will lead to the fact that it is useful to disassemble the entire drill and have it repaired in a special shop.

On some models of the drill of this brand on the spindle (axis), on which the chuck is mounted, there are special grooves (flats) for a wrench. This secures the axle before unscrewing it.

If there are no flashes, and the method of hitting the Allen key did not help, the ideal part of the drill, unscrewing all screws and removing the cover of the tool.

The shaft can be secured in the following way:

After removing the old tool, you must install the new unit in reverse order, remembering to lubricate the threads of the spindle and screw.

It is strongly advised not to use greases such as Lithol, as when it is time for the next replacement, there will be even greater difficulties than if the threads were not lubricated at all. This should be done with graphite grease or just machine oil.

Fastening methods

There are three ways to attach the clamping cylinder to the spindle:

With the thread; with the fixing screw; with the Morse cone.

The first way is to have threads on the two parts that are in contact.

The screw is used as a reinforcement of the contact between the sleeve and the shaft.

In this case, too, there is screwing, but the fixing component serves as an additional attachment.

The screw is usually characterized by left-hand threads and a “Phillips” head.

To see the element, you have to widen the cams out as much as possible.

Morse taper. A variant that has been used for more than a hundred years.

The surface of the shaft has a tapered format, similar to the shape of the chuck.

The matching parameters of both tapers make it possible to reliably and quickly align the parts.

This option is used in many modern models (pneumatic, etc.). Д.).

Ways to remove a wheel if the bolts can’t be unscrewed

With each may happen such a nuisance that you need to remove the wheel, and wheel nuts or bolts do not want to unscrew. What to do in this situation, how to remove the wheel?

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The first method is brute force

Difficulties with unscrewing bolts most often arise because the tire shop over-tightens the bolts on the wheels with a blowgun. In addition, over time, the thread can oxidize and the bolt, as they say, sticking. First off, let’s try to use the standard tool for changing a wheel that’s in every car. Before you start unscrewing the bolts, you must tighten the “handbrake” or put it on speed, and put stones under the wheels so that the car will not roll away.

Found rocks will also help us in unscrewing a stuck nut or bolt. With the crescent wrench on the bolt, you should hit the handle of the wrench with a stone several times with force. You can also put your foot on the wrench and jump around a bit until the bolt squeaks and starts unscrewing.

The second way is chemistry

If the force doesn’t help, you’ll have to use special means to help unscrew what you don’t want to unscrew. The most suitable tool is WD-40, which probably every motorist has.

It is necessary to abundantly pour this grease on our stubborn bolt and wait a few minutes to “WD-40” penetrated into the threads. If you don’t have any grease in the car, you can take some from a barrel of brake fluid. Then you should yank the spanner back and forth with force as if rocking the bolt.

This will break up the rust layer in the threads. If it continues to resist, then again we take a stone and proceed to the first method.

The third way is when nothing has helped

When you can not cope with a bolt or nut on your own, you have to go to the car service, where there are powerful pneumatic tools. Only you need to buy a set of new wheel bolts in advance.

If you want to defeat the seized bolt by yourself, and the time does not matter, you can use the old old-fashioned method of struggling with the seized bolts. When they didn’t even know about existence of WD-40, they struggled with this problem with a rag and water.

It is necessary to moisten a rag with water and put it to the stuck bolt for 24 hours or even more. In that time, the water will soften the rust, and the bolt will be easier to unscrew.

To new cars to the users of Drivenn site

Drill chuck. How to remove and replace on a drill, electric screwdriver

Even the most reliable brand-name power tools, such as an electric drill, torch or an electric screwdriver, not to mention Chinese-made tools, over time, depending on the intensity of use, wear out and begin to poorly hold drills, bits, or jam the chuck.

Such fate befell the chuck of my drill chuck, that has been faithfully serving for 12 years. The malfunction began with jamming, expressed in the difficulty of rotating the jaw ring. In addition, water got inside the chuck during the repair of the apartment, and in the guide grooves of the chuck jaws there was a rust deposit. The jaw faces are also worn out. Although the drill chuck was still working, but it was extremely inconvenient to change the drill bits. I decided to replace it with a new one and the question arose as to how to remove the chuck from the drill shaft?

Ways to fix the drill chuck

In order to answer the question how to remove the drill chuck it is necessary to understand the existing ways of fixing chucks on the shafts of drills and screwdrivers.

There are two ways of fastening a chuck to a power tool. The first method was suggested as early as 1864 by Stephen Morse using a cone. Morse, by the way, is also the inventor of the twist drill. The essence of the method is to mate two surfaces in the form of a shaft and a part with a hole, having the same taper with an angle ranging from 1°25’43″ to 1°30’26″. The Honor inventor called this mounting method a Morse cone, which is pictured below. The cone in the photo has a larger angle for clarity.

The method of fixing on the Morse taper is widespread, as it is simple and reliable enough for loads along the axis, as in drills and screwdrivers. To attach the drill chuck, it is sufficient to slip the back side of the chuck onto the shaft with the Morse taper with a little force. The chuck is also easy to remove, just hit the chuck along its axis in the direction of the drill location with a hammer. The ability to quickly install and remove the tool while working is the main advantage of fastening with the Morse cone.

The second, more common nowadays for fixing the drill chuck on the shafts of power tools, is a threaded chuck.

On the end of the shaft coming out of the drill or electric screwdriver, there are metric or inch threads cut and the drill chuck, like a nut until it stops in the flange, is screwed onto this shaft. Because the threads are right-handed and the chuck is mainly turned clockwise when working, it is always tightened and thus secured to the tool.

How is it fastened?

From the external examination of a power tool, it is often not possible to determine how the drill chuck is fastened. But if you know the markings, the way of fixing will be determined even with a quick look at the chuck.

The marking of drill chucks

Both metric and inch threads are used to attach the drill chuck to the tool with the thread. Domestic chucks are usually available with metric threads, while imported chucks are always with inch threads.

A drill chuck with metric threads usually has the following marking on the body: 1,5-13 М12×1,25. Numbers 1.5-13, as you have probably already guessed, mean the diameter of drill bits or other tools shanks, which can be clamped in this chuck. The letter M means that the thread is metric, the numbers 12 and 1.25 indicate the thread diameter and thread pitch respectively. Nowadays you almost never see a drill chuck with metric thread attachment, maybe you can see it on an old Soviet style hand drill.

Nowadays the market is full of foreign made power tools and the drill chucks are usually fastened with inch threads.

Drill chucks with inch threads are marked in the same way as metric threads. For example, 2. 13 mm 1/2. 20 UNF as in the photo. The numbers 2-13 indicate the range of clamped drill shank diameters, 1/2 indicates the thread diameter in inches (for reference, one English inch equals 2.54 cm), 20 indicates the number of threads per inch (thread pitch).

Remove Lug Nuts with Impact Driver

Having learned the rules of marking drill chucks, now you can easily determine the method of its attachment to the tool and will be able to choose the correct technology of chuck replacement. The marking will also allow you to purchase an interchangeable chuck in case it wears out or breaks on your drill or electric screwdriver.

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What is the method of clamping

Household drills and screwdrivers are usually equipped with one type of chucks according to the way of clamping the working tool, they are key-operated and quick-action chucks. Key cam chucks appeared long ago and are well familiar to any home handyman. Quick-action chucks have been used quite recently, and they quickly became very popular.

In the picture on the left you see a quick-action chuck and on the right you see a key-action chuck. There is an opinion that the keyhole chuck better clamps the drill bits, but from many years of experience with both the keyhole chuck and the quick-action chuck, I dare say there is no difference. Both types of chucks clamp with equal success. Only the convenience and the speed of the drill changes in a drill with a quick-change chuck are undeniable. No need for a wrench, which is forever lost while working unless it is secured to the drill or tied to it on a rope, two hands are needed to clamp the drill.

The way of clamping the chuck is not connected with the way of its fastening on the shaft of the drill, so if you change the chuck with a key way of clamping, I advise to install a chuck with a quick-clamp way of fixing drills instead of it.

How to unscrew a chuck from a drill

As a rule, chucks that are fastened with a thread on the tool shaft are additionally fastened with a screw with a left-hand thread. That’s why you should start removing the drill chuck by unscrewing this screw. To get to the screw, the chuck jaws have to be pushed in as far as possible, as shown in the photo.

On the bottom of the chuck in the center you should see the screw head with a slot for a Phillips screwdriver or star. To prevent the screw from unscrewing during drilling, it is installed with a left-hand thread. Therefore, it is necessary to unscrew the screw by turning the screwdriver clockwise. There may not be a screw. In that case, proceed immediately to the second step. Unscrewing the chuck.

For owners of cars with automatic transmission

How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley on an automatic transmission? If an automatic gearbox is fitted, “Park” is selected for a rear-wheel drive car. The handbrake is engaged and then the element is unscrewed in the same way as in a manual transmission. It is more complicated if the car is front-wheel drive. In this case, you won’t be able to remove the pulley like in mechanics (with the gear engaged and the brake depressed).

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There is a big risk of damaging the gearbox. In this case, the crankshaft must be locked so that it cannot be turned in any other way. Insert the bit between the gear teeth of the engine flywheel through the hole in the gearbox bell. It is rested so that it can not come off and spoil the teeth on the flywheel. In some cases, to get to the flywheel, you need to unscrew the engine starter. This will require an inspection pit, elevator or overpass.

Unscrewing tools

A popular and simple method, which is the first resort. First the place of connection is scraped with a metal brush.

Next, a tube is put on the wrench, which will act as a lever. It is desirable to use a ring spanner, because the open-end wrench can slip off the bolt head.

The part is rotated, pushing gently on the lever. It is important to control the pressure and speed of the movement.

To make it easier to turn the stuck nut, it is recommended to grease the joint with turpentine or oleic acid.

Chisel

This mechanical method is used to tear the rusty bolt from its “seat” with one blow. The method is fast, but technically difficult. This is why it can only be done by craftsmen who know how to measure the power and direction of the blow.

Place the chisel at an angle to the nut. The tool should point in the opposite direction to the direction of the thread. Then hit the butt of the chisel with a hammer or small hammer. It is desirable to choose a chisel with a wide striker part, to avoid the striking tool slipping. As a result of a sharp, violent blow, the bolt can be torn off.

Knocking

Knocking helps break up the rusty layer and makes it easier to undo. A hammer is struck on the stuck item with a nonferrous metal drift.

After tapping, you can apply a loosening action. To do this, first try to tighten the part more, and then loosen it. This correction of the thread connection helps to achieve the result.

Heating

The thermal method is considered effective, especially if it is used in combination with other mechanical methods. As a result of the warming the “stuck” oxides become more brittle and the part can be turned.

To heat the fastener connection, use:

Gasoline

Refined petroleum products, including gasoline and diesel fuel, help soften a joint clogged with oxides and dirt. Wet the fastening point with liquid and wait a quarter of an hour.

After penetration of gasoline into the space between the threads, wrench the part using a standard method. The method helps if the corrosion process has recently begun and the rust layer is still slight.

An all-purpose product, often used in workshops, also helps unscrew a rusty bolt or nut. The complex of WD-40 active substances, which contains white spirit, provides for the destruction of the rust layer in the threads.

The method belongs to the popular and simple, if this liquid is on hand. WD-40 is sprayed on the problematic fasteners and wait 15-20 minutes. After that the part is unscrewed in a usual way.

Kerosene

Its action is similar to that of gasoline. The kerosene not only loosens the rusty layer, but also dissolves the dirt that has entered the threads. The method is effective if the bolt or nut is only blocked for a short time.

For heavily rusted fasteners, a combination of methods should be used. For example, firstly treatment with kerosene, and then unscrewing with a lever. The place of fastening is moistened with kerosene, covered with a rag which has been preimpregnated with the same liquid, and kept for 15-20 minutes.

Brake fluid

This substance has a good penetrating property. It softens the rust and lubricates the threads. Thanks to these processes, a stuck bolt or nut can be unscrewed more quickly. Both new and used brake fluid are suitable for work.

The product is applied to the problem area, and the cloth is soaked in it. Make an “application” to the fixing place and wait 2-3 hours. After that time, unscrew the fastener with a wrench or lever.

Converter

This category of agents includes chemical solutions that react with iron oxides and convert them into harmless compounds. The latter form an adhesive layer on the surface of the metal and thus protect it from re-corrosion.

Converters include:

For work, liquid, gel and spray converters can be used, which are used according to the instructions:

Vinegar

A low concentration of table vinegar can dissolve metal oxide. The effect is based on a chemical reaction of acetic acid with iron oxides and hydroxides. Vinegar treatment is popular in cleaning rust from metal surfaces because of its effectiveness.

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Vinegar is poured on the fasteners that can’t be loosened, and a cloth soaked in vinegar is covered. Dwell time depends on the degree of damage to the thread. On average, it takes 30 minutes to several hours. Periodically in the process of soaking the fastener with a wrench, check its slackness.

Sodium bicarbonate is often used to remove rust from exposed surfaces. This method is also applicable for stuck threaded fasteners, but its efficiency is significantly lower compared to other methods.

Baking soda is diluted with water until it forms a pulp. Apply this mass on the problem fastener and hold for at least 30 minutes. Then you brush the fastener with a metal brush.

How to unscrew the torn off fastener?

Looking for causes, preventing accidents, giving hope!

Under- and over-dilution are equally bad when it comes to car repairs. And in particular. About metric threaded fasteners, which are found on the hub, wheel rims, the receiver pipe and other parts.

It seems that you can avoid a widespread problem of chipped edges of fasteners by turning to a reliable car service center. There is no difference in practice: whether in official dealer car center or in a garage workshop, the fasteners can be torn off everywhere.

But it’s not all the fault of car services: over time, with regular maintenance or repair fasteners wear out. The forums are filled with the despair of motorists: “The edges of the nut are worn out”! Help unscrew!”. There are hundreds of “experts” answering the query. Which advice is good, and which will worsen the situation?? It’s not easy to figure out.

It also takes a lot of time and energy to try all these methods. It is possible that you will not have the right tool, which they talk about on the forums.

And if you do buy one, it’s not certain that the method will work.

  • What to do with worn-out edges of fasteners?
  • What to do, if a rounded bolt is jammed tightly in a thread?
  • Is there a right approach to rusty nuts without the risk of damaging your arsenal of tools??

We have the answers, how to work with problematic fasteners. We’ve tried to gather information so that you’ll know your situation and find the right method the first time.

We will share tips to help deal with deformed bolts and nuts. There are techniques for both small and large connections. We recommend that you read the article to the end: we have something for dessert.

which, drill, wheel, bolts, nuts

In the footsteps of experienced craftsmen. Let’s study the proven ways

This method works well on wheel bolts. The threads can not stand vibration, so the blow helps to tear the bolts.

You need a screwdriver and a socket head for the size of the fastener. After installing the construction on the bolt, you need to take a hammer and hit the bending point of the screw several times. In parallel with the striking of the tool rotate. As a rule, if a bolt is not too sour and rusty, it comes off immediately and is easily unscrewed.

When the nut is useless or there is no point in saving it, then the method of using force is used. Its essence is to expand the fastener in diameter and deform its thread. Can be used in hard-to-reach places.

To unthread the nut you’ll need a chisel and hammer, a pneumatic chisel or a special tool. A nutcracker. Place the chisel against one side of the nut, and tap it with a hammer.

The result is a deep notch in the fastener. The same notch can be made with a pneumatic chisel or a nutrunner.

The fastener threads deform, the nut expands in diameter, and is therefore easily removed with a wrench or socket head with a ratchet.

Using pliers or an adjustable wrench

Cobra-type pliers have sharp serrations that will catch the most rounded fastener. An adjustable wrench is also a good way to do this.

Clamp the fastener with the pliers and turn in the direction of the thread, as with a normal wrench. As soon as you put the tool on a bolt or nut, you feel the metal click securely into place. If the pliers are new, you can get the job done quickly.

Using a crescent wrench works a little differently. Do not clamp the nut completely, but only with the tips of the jaws, then tighten the screw tightly on the working part. After that, the wrench is hammered onto the fastener, carefully tapping on the handle with a hammer. The same hammer strikes the handle sharply to the side and tears off the nut. Worth a try if the fastener is easily accessible!

There is a risk of even more damage to the edges if the key slips.

If the edges of the nut are worn out, a socket with a 12-point socket profile can help. Choose a socket smaller than the diameter of the screw head.

Use a hammer to press the head of the head onto the worn-out fastener. The bit should become one with the nut. Take the ratchet and unscrew the fastener in the usual manner.

It’s a simple enough method that you only need a file. It’s a matter of sawing new faces on the nut. It is not necessary to carefully saw out all six facets. Two or three will be enough for a wrench to grip.

Deburr the metal so there is no rust or scale on the fastener. Create new faces with a file, and then use the most appropriate size wrench to grasp the bolt. If the threads inside the connection are not corroded, it should unscrew easily.

If the fastener is badly corroded on one side or the inside, you can’t file the faces.

If the threads of the stud are damaged, cutting edges alone will not help unscrew the bolt.

which, drill, wheel, bolts, nuts

Saw cut for screwdriver or bit

One of the favorite ways of craftsmen who are always faced with fasteners with worn edges. But it only applies to bolts. If you are unable to grasp the fastener’s edges with a wrench, you can unscrew it with a flat-blade screwdriver or a bit. To do it, you have to make a kerf.

You will need a hacksaw or angle grinder for the cut. In the middle of the bolt, a groove is carefully sawed out to fit the size of the bit. When the kerf is ready, you can start unscrewing.

For rusty fasteners we recommend the use of bits that can be mounted on an adapter with a ratchet or wrench. Unlikely to be handled manually with an ordinary screwdriver if the connection is sour.

This method is suitable for both small and large bolts.

An angle grinder and hacksaw can’t reach hard-to-reach places.

This Lug Nut Wouldn’t Come Off Our Car!

Another method is to drill out the bolt head. Let’s face it, it doesn’t always work. Masters also treat it ambiguously. But the method is applicable not only to the worn-out edges of the bolt, but also to chipped studs.

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